Rover 25

galwayjohn89

I have a rover 25 with blown headgasket. It's 5 door, 2000 model with 160,000 mile

Has 2 months Tax and 9 months NCT. What would be a fair price for it?

MidlandsM

>>>>>>>>>>>> scrap metal forum that'a way...............>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.

166man

A Rover with a blown head gasket? She's worth feck all really... Scrap value I'd imagine as Midlands said..

I think scrap value these days is about €230, not sure though..

galwayjohn89

How much is scrap value though?

If it's a 2005 rover 25 with a blown head gasket that hasn't had the head cooked it's worth more than a 2001 rover 25 with a blown head gasket and a warped head.

Anyone who can reckon it's only worth scrap value without knowing more than you've posted is either having a laugh ( ) or is a trolling numpty looking for popularity votes :pac:

Sleepy

Has a mechanic taken a look at let you know what it'd cost to put right?

Are you talking a new engine or just a re-skim?

If it's not cooked and the gasket has just worn through a skim often isn't even required. Often they can be done for less than double what a timing belt and water pump costs, including a new belt and pump of course Ks aren't skimmed unless there is a need to.

galwayjohn89

No. AA guy said it was the headgasket and left it at that.

I know its hard to get a value for it without more details.

All I know is there was a bit of Mayo in the oil, oil leak from what I *think* was the oil filter and the air filter had oil on it too.

MidlandsM

RoverJames wrote: »

Anyone who can reckon it's only worth scrap value without knowing more than you've posted is either having a laugh ( ) or is a trolling numpty looking for popularity votes :pac:

MEEEEEEEEEEEEEOOOOOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWWWWWw..........!:pac:

MidlandsM

166man wrote: »

A Rover with a blown head gasket? She's worth feck all really... Scrap value I'd imagine as Midlands said..

I think scrap value these days is about €230, not sure though..

Vuzuggu wrote: »

How much is scrap value though?

€160 a tonne....i left a yoke with them the other day.

Nonoperational

Year? Mileage? Condition?

galwayjohn89

Just realised I forgot to put the year and mileage!

gpf101

gpf101 wrote: »

Year? Mileage? Condition?

None of that is relevant, it's only worth scrap value which is €230 ish apparently :pac:
Which is the value someone had on donedeal for a much larger Saab recently.


OP, so it hasn't overheated at all? Was the AA called as it wouldn't start?

166man

12 years old, 160k miles and a blown headgasket? Yep I reckon it might be fit for the scrapper as said in my first post. You may want to keep it for sentimental reasons though OP.

166man

166man wrote: »

12 years old, 160k miles and a blown headgasket? Yep I reckon it might be fit for the scrapper as said in my first post. You may want to keep it for sentimental reasons though OP.

None of which you knew at the time.

galwayjohn89

It was driving fine and not overheating that I was aware of. The last journey before today was down to Wicklow and back and the needle never went past 1/2 way.

Today drove Dalkey to Stillorgan, Then around 5 mins from Stillorgan it cut out. Tried to restart it smoke from the exhaust and then popped the bonnet saw the oil and rang AA. There is now around 1mm in the coolant tank but it was full on Sunday on my last check and there was no movement in the levels since I have owned the car.

For the sake of a €3 donedeal add it might be worth putting that detail in an add along with a few pics (emphasising it hasn't overheated). You might well get more than what a scrap yard would give you, potentially €100 more

Of course if it's not at your house etc and has been towed to a garage that makes donedealing it a non runner really.

galwayjohn89

How would I check if it was over heated or is there a way to do it? I was thinking €400 or would that be too much? Has 2 months tax and halve a tank of petrol, thats €100 right there!

Its currently sitting in the back of my cousins garage so would like to get it out of his way as soon as possible. Once I do Ill be looking for your advice on Rover 45s! Thinking of getting one of them next.

Vuzuggu

Vuzuggu wrote: »

How would I check if it was over heated or is there a way to do it? I was thinking €400 or would that be too much? Has 2 months tax and halve a tank of petrol, thats €100 right there!

Its currently sitting in the back of my cousins garage so would like to get it out of his way as soon as possible. Once I do Ill be looking for your advice on Rover 45s! Thinking of getting one of them next.

It's as easy as ...........

Vuzuggu wrote: »

............the needle never went past 1/2 way............

......to know it hadn't overheated

If your cousin wouldn't mind it being collected from his place it might be an option to meet potential sellers there.
Asking €400 seems a tad ambitious, I'd ask for €350 and hope to get €250 for it.

galwayjohn89

RoverJames wrote: »

It's as easy as ...........

......to know it hadn't overheated

If your cousin wouldn't mind it being collected from his place it might be an option to meet potential sellers there.
Asking €400 seems a tad ambitious, I'd ask for €350 and hope to get €250 for it.

Haha ye that would make sense! Cheers for your help.

Mycroft H

Is it worth fixing it if your going to have to buy a new car? Devil you know and all that.

galwayjohn89

Not sure how much it would be to fix and kinda like the idea of a 45.

The battery is gone in the car, if I put more coolant in and charged the battery would it drive or would that be the stupidest thing ever to do?

Jimbob 83

I will be paying to fix/replace a wingmirror back shock steering rack completely disconnected backbox from rest of system 2 electric window regulators on my 2002 Skoda Octavia in afew days and i will be getting a new car in 6-7 weeks anyway, have no idea what i will get for it as it's a 1.4 w/o a fsh, shure i suppose i may aswell polish her up nice and see what i can get for her and the fella who is doing the work is a dinger and im happy to give him the business.

Mother reckons i should have scapped it and auld fella said i may aswell drive it another years if im spending that much on it, but feck it im gonna do it the gimp way for the craic

Vuzuggu

Vuzuggu wrote: »

.
The battery is gone in the car, if I put more coolant in and charged the battery would it drive or would that be the stupidest thing ever to do?

If the HG is gone driving it isn't the way to go.

john reilly

BX 19 wrote: »

Is it worth fixing it if your going to have to buy a new car? Devil you know and all that.

no. he could put a head gasket on it and get another couple of weeks out of it by spending a couple of hundred on it. better not put more than a fiver petrol in it at one go. just end up syphoning it out before you scrap it

john reilly

Vuzuggu wrote: »

Not sure how much it would be to fix and kinda like the idea of a 45.

The battery is gone in the car, if I put more coolant in and charged the battery would it drive or would that be the stupidest thing ever to do?

why not go the whole hog and buy a punto

Mycroft H

Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't the multi layer steel gaskets that can be retrofitted much more reliable then the first design?

Worth going down that route IMO.

Just my thinking that the cost to change vs the cost of fixing it should be seriously considered, unless the OP wants rid of it entirely.

BX 19

BX 19 wrote: »

Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't the multi layer steel gaskets that can be retrofitted much more reliable then the first design?..........

The MLS gasket is thought to be more reliable, too many folks are happy to forget/ignore that the OE gasket isn't a guaranteed fail and that when it does the root cause often isn't the gasket but cooking of the engine.

Another option is the Payen BW750 gasket.

Neither will do the trick if the head has gone soft, isn't flat or if the liners have dropped

Repeat HG failure is more often than not due to a poor job first time, and first time failure may have been caused by a cooking, but sure it's a Rover, the HG goes on all of them.

Redisle

RoverJames wrote: »

Neither will do the trick if the head has gone soft, isn't flat or if the liners have dropped

Can the liners drop from overheating alone? Doing some research at the moment as I am planning on buying a ZR and I get the impression that the liners generally only drop if you turn the crankshaft while the head is off? Because the head bolts also hold the crankshaft bearings I believe?


@OP,

If you had any interest and are in some way DIY inclined you could always use the opportunity to try and change the HG yourself. Kits available on Ebay e.g. There are a few guides about for the k series engines and it doesn't look that difficult to me. You can get nice little tools to lock the cam shaft(s) to stop the timing from changing when you take off the t-belt. Maybe not worth continuing if the head is badly damaged due to overheating but it might be okay and just need the gasket. (Plus the inlet manifold gasket). You could also just scrap it afterwards if it didn't work out except you may not be able to drive to the scrap yard :pac:

Tbh though it's not worth paying someone else to do it given the prices these things go for when they are fully functional.

john reilly

RoverJames wrote: »

The MLS gasket is thought to be more reliable, too many folks are happy to forget/ignore that the OE gasket isn't a guaranteed fail and that when it does the root cause often isn't the gasket but cooking of the engine.

Another option is the Payen BW750 gasket.

Neither will do the trick if the head has gone soft, isn't flat or if the liners have dropped

Repeat HG failure is more often than not due to a poor job first time, and first time failure may have been caused by a cooking, but sure it's a Rover, the HG goes on all of them.

bit of a chicken and egg thing. its a boilover rover.

Indricotherium

BX 19 wrote: »

Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't the multi layer steel gaskets that can be retrofitted much more reliable then the first design?

Worth going down that route IMO.

Just my thinking that the cost to change vs the cost of fixing it should be seriously considered, unless the OP wants rid of it entirely.

I think the cost to change is going to be the cost of a new car tbh. Not much of a market for 12 year old rovers.

On a side note have a search for rover 500 ncap test in YouTube.

Redisle

Redisle wrote: »

Can the liners drop from overheating alone? Doing some research at the moment as I am planning on buying a ZR and I get the impression that the liners generally only drop if you turn the crankshaft while the head is off? Because the head bolts also hold the crankshaft bearings I believe?...............

They drop as the liners are steel and the block is alloy, the different metals expand at different rates, inherent to the design really and independent of maintenance, again, doesn't happen to too many of them as a percentage. It's often not diagnosed at all and a new HG is put on and the same thing happens again.

Turning the crank with the head off as you say pops the liners up with the piston, it's a big no no to do.

Liners dropping isn't too common really.

john reilly wrote: »

[/B]
bit of a chicken and egg thing. its a boilover rover.

Not really, coolant loss through a leaking pump or inlet manifold gasket can result in overheating which can result in HG failure, the chicken and egg is assisted in those cases.

Indricotherium wrote: »

...........

On a side note have a search for rover 500 ncap test in YouTube.

On a side note do you mean roewe 550 ?