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Buying an arcade cab in Ireland?
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08-04-2012 5:44pm#1
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you could try these guys either?
http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/cocktailcabkits.php
pretty sure someone here recommended them, just can't remember who
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you could try these guys either?
http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/cocktailcabkits.php
pretty sure someone here recommended them, just can't remember who
Bought from them before, no problems. Was only for joysticks/buttons though0 -
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Well I could build you a cab ready to go minus just the PC. I don't think anyone would have a a problem with that side of things as its just the shell and buttons ? I was half way through building 2 full size for friends but ones backed out so I'm left with all the wood ready cut. The top pic below is the old shape I made my own, the one below is newer shape with no toe curve. (All made of laminated mdf instead of painted) Just said I'd throw the idea out there.
If not, I agree mitchomagic always has some gems and is def worth a look.
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Well I could build you a cab ready to go minus just the PC. I don't think anyone would have a a problem with that side of things as its just the shell and buttons ? I was half way through building 2 full size for friends but ones backed out so I'm left with all the wood ready cut. The top pic below is the old shape I made my own, the one below is newer shape with no toe curve. (All made of laminated mdf instead of painted) Just said I'd throw the idea out there.
If not, I agree mitchomagic always has some gems and is def worth a look.
Thats a beautiful machine, cracking work on that.0 -
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you could try these guys either?
http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/cocktailcabkits.php
pretty sure someone here recommended them, just can't remember who
Probably me. I've dealt with them several times, have never been let down. They've been in business at least 7 or 8 years, i bought the gear for every cab i've built from them. My first build was circa 2003-4. I used them just by chance, and have gone back every time since then for the quality service and choice of products. They carry a very good range of stuff at reasonable prices (especially with the current sterling to euro rate) and they've always given me first class advice and customer service and never steered me wrong.
Call them on the phone at a quiet enough time of the working day if you can, rather than ordering off their site. I've never bought a cab kit off them but i've placed several orders for sticks, buttons, interfaces, looms, wiring kits, etc, etc, and they've always taken the time to ask me what i was building and give me good advice on what gear would suit for what i was doing.
If you can manage to speak to him, Andy is your man (i think he's the boss). He knows his stuff and will give you honest advice. Last time i ordered some sticks from him (sanwa JLFs) they did a load of modding work on them for me for free, changed out the springs, gates, tops, etc, for the ones i wanted and just charged me for the standard stick price, no extra parts or service charges or anything like that. All i had to do was take the customized sticks out of bubble wrap and mount them in my cab.:DDeleted User wrote: »Anybody have any dealings with tinyarcade.co.uk? They're selling a Hyperspin bartop. Bit expensive at £950 though!
Dont bother. I ordered a kit off them (him) before. Their cabs have shoddy build quality and are made of inferior foam PVC materials and off-the-shelf DIY parts you'd get in any hardware shop. The kit i ordered had pilot holes drilled a couple of mm off in many places, marquee retainers cut to the wrong lengths, rough finishes on a lot of the surfaces making it not suitable for painting without further work, etc. Also making money off of selling hyperspin (which is not-for-profit open source software that a lot of free community development work went into) is not cool in my book.
You seriously could build a better quality, stronger bartop cab out of some MDF in a weekend with the right tools. It would be better put together than their cabs and a lot cheaper. Steer clear.0 -
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Shapey Fiend wrote: »No offense but most self built stuff is hideeeeous. Main thing when building a self build I think is stick to an original cabinet design........And don't put too much stuff on the control panel.
I think cabs are a matter of personal preference, there are some nasty ones, and some great ones, but i would agree with you on the control panel. Too often I've seen really nice machines being wrecked by panels that it's clear no thought or planning has gone into.
When it comes to a control panel, less definitely is more. Somebody should have told this guy that....
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Overview
They are very easy to make (less than a week to hand make mine if I work on it regularly as a DIY project) and reasonably cheap (<£200 total) - or you can make it very good quality for a much larger price if you wish. The cabinet is basic MDF cabinet (although you can use ply-wood), about 65 cm across, with a centre strut for the screen - height and width can vary depending on number of players, design and requirement. Just going to start building another one for myself from left-over wood from an old TV entertainment centre and bookshelf and a TV I bought for £10 on facebook buy-and-sell and a Pi3 I set up working, with around 3000 games, in just over 30 minutes, lol.
Cabinet build
You could even buy an old iCade cabinet for around £10 and convert it (although they are only 1 player and quite small - but cute). As for the hardware, you can use a raspberry Pi3 to run arcade games and all console games up to PS1. The more games you want, the larger the SD card you will require but 128GB will cover most things. A Pi3 is around £35 and a 128GB card is around £25. A Pi Zero is just £4.50 but can't run quite as many demanding games but is still great fun as an arcade machine/retro gaming console! You just download an image and burn it to the SD card - takes less than 10 minutes - no stress setting it up, unlike hyperspin
Screen and sound
You could use a second-hand TV set which people often give away for free or £10 and this will provide weight for the cabinet and genuine scanlines and native resolution (which make the games look a lot better than LCD/TFT screens and just like the originals) and a sound output - or you can buy PC desktop speakers for a few quid and mount them underneath the marquee head-space. The Pi Zero uses RCA connectors for audio and video where the Pi3 uses HDMI and a separate audio line-out.
Controller
The joysticks and buttons vary in price and quality but a pack of half-decent (playable) buttons, joystick and USB controller boards for 2 players will cost around £40 but if you want decent quality sticks and buttons, you can pay £hundreds - or you could buy a ready-made Hori Fight-Stick (or a decent, cheap replica for around £30) and slot it in, screwing it into position to the cabinet sides. A spinner or tacker-ball is optional but I rarely use them - depends which games you like. As a last resort, you can "hack" a USB joystick or keyboard by opening the casing and soldering directly onto the finger-board connectors - a bit fiddly and not really worth the hassle in my opinion.
Extras/Decoration
You can paint the cabinet with spray paint and print vinyl stickers as decals to stick on and decorate it. There is a thing called T-molding which is a plastic edging to make it look better and protect the edges of the cabinet - costs about £20 for 10 metres and comes in different colours, even shiny metallic!
You can use glass or plexi/acrylic for the screen cover and use a bezel or not to hide the edges of the TV and make it look neater/more authentic.
Conclusion
All-in-all you could make a decent cabinet for around £200 with 1000s of games, all set up to look like hyperspin with art and videos for each game and system themes. Or, if you prefer, you can ditch the cabinet and just hook the Pi3 up to a TV with some replacement wireless Playstation/X-box controllers for a retro games-console ni less than an hour and buy a small plastic case for it such as the official Pi3 case or a tiny, custom-made NES, Megadrive or N64 Pi3 case. Sorry for the "£" sign, can't find the Euro sign
If you like, I can guide you through or help you build it. Pete, Co. Cork.0 -
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Overview
They are very easy to make (less than a week to hand make mine if I work on it regularly as a DIY project) and reasonably cheap (<£200 total) - or you can make it very good quality for a much larger price if you wish. The cabinet is basic MDF cabinet (although you can use ply-wood), about 65 cm across, with a centre strut for the screen - height and width can vary depending on number of players, design and requirement. Just going to start building another one for myself from left-over wood from an old TV entertainment centre and bookshelf and a TV I bought for £10 on facebook buy-and-sell and a Pi3 I set up working, with around 3000 games, in just over 30 minutes, lol.
Cabinet build
You could even buy an old iCade cabinet for around £10 and convert it (although they are only 1 player and quite small - but cute). As for the hardware, you can use a raspberry Pi3 to run arcade games and all console games up to PS1. The more games you want, the larger the SD card you will require but 128GB will cover most things. A Pi3 is around £35 and a 128GB card is around £25. A Pi Zero is just £4.50 but can't run quite as many demanding games but is still great fun as an arcade machine/retro gaming console! You just download an image and burn it to the SD card - takes less than 10 minutes - no stress setting it up, unlike hyperspin
Screen and sound
You could use a second-hand TV set which people often give away for free or £10 and this will provide weight for the cabinet and genuine scanlines and native resolution (which make the games look a lot better than LCD/TFT screens and just like the originals) and a sound output - or you can buy PC desktop speakers for a few quid and mount them underneath the marquee head-space. The Pi Zero uses RCA connectors for audio and video where the Pi3 uses HDMI and a separate audio line-out.
Controller
The joysticks and buttons vary in price and quality but a pack of half-decent (playable) buttons, joystick and USB controller boards for 2 players will cost around £40 but if you want decent quality sticks and buttons, you can pay £hundreds - or you could buy a ready-made Hori Fight-Stick (or a decent, cheap replica for around £30) and slot it in, screwing it into position to the cabinet sides. A spinner or tacker-ball is optional but I rarely use them - depends which games you like. As a last resort, you can "hack" a USB joystick or keyboard by opening the casing and soldering directly onto the finger-board connectors - a bit fiddly and not really worth the hassle in my opinion.
Extras/Decoration
You can paint the cabinet with spray paint and print vinyl stickers as decals to stick on and decorate it. There is a thing called T-molding which is a plastic edging to make it look better and protect the edges of the cabinet - costs about £20 for 10 metres and comes in different colours, even shiny metallic!
You can use glass or plexi/acrylic for the screen cover and use a bezel or not to hide the edges of the TV and make it look neater/more authentic.
Conclusion
All-in-all you could make a decent cabinet for around £200 with 1000s of games, all set up to look like hyperspin with art and videos for each game and system themes. Or, if you prefer, you can ditch the cabinet and just hook the Pi3 up to a TV with some replacement wireless Playstation/X-box controllers for a retro games-console ni less than an hour and buy a small plastic case for it such as the official Pi3 case or a tiny, custom-made NES, Megadrive or N64 Pi3 case. Sorry for the "£" sign, can't find the Euro sign
If you like, I can guide you through or help you build it. Pete, Co. Cork.
Very informative, Pete! That will be a very helpful overview for when I go about my own build.
Just out of curiosity as it is 2018 and we're going with this whole resurrecting threads theme, does anyone know of how one goes about buying an arcade cab in Ireland in 2018? Are there any vendors in the UK that are good with shipping?0 -
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