Word of caution for all DIYers

mobfromcork

Folks,

I was having a bit of a problem with my 1999 Mazda 626 for the last week or two. I've owned it for over two years without any major work needing to be done apart from replacing the back brake calipers which are a weak point on that model. It has only 62k miles with a full Mazda history to 42k miles. Did any servicing myself and keep it in pretty good mechanical condition.

I'm no mechanic but after 10 years of working on my own motorbikes and 5 or so working on cars I'd be able to tackle most DIY jobs competently with a Haynes manual.

I noticed a slight knocking noise from the front driver's side when pulling off or braking over the past week. I visually checked the anti roll bar bushings, CV joints, boots and couldn't see anything untoward. I brought it into a Tyre/Suspension place on a whim on my way home the other day where they quite helpfully put it on the lift and had a look and found nothing wrong underneath but concluded that it was most likely Engine mountings, two of which they pointed out looked worn. I thanked them for their help and headed home to do a bit of research on changing engine mounts.

The next day I started to hear a slight grating noise when the front drivers wheel was rotating at slow speeds. Like the pads being really worn but I had changed them fairly recently so couldn't be that. I cycled to work today and jacked up the car when I got home to see were the two problems connected.

Put the wheel-nut wrench on to loosen the nuts on the front wheel and the weight of the wrench spun the first nut. They were only all hand-tight! I had removed the wheel 2 weeks ago when changing the oil and filter and never tightened the nuts up when I lowered it back down from the stands. I felt like some gowl. There was play in the wheel and disc as a result of the nuts being loose and that was causing the clunk/grating noise.

Easy and cheap fix compared to replacing engine mounts but it was a good reminder to check your work all the time, even for the simple jobs. Both noises now gone after a thorough test drive. At least I didn't fork out shed loads of money for unnecessary parts...

colm_mcm

amazing that the garage didnt cop it either.

mickdw

Any damage to studs, wheel?

mobfromcork

colm_mcm wrote: »

amazing that the garage didnt cop it either.

I thought that too Colm. My own stupidity was to blame for the cause of the knocking but I would have thought a garage would have picked up on it.

Mick, the studs seem to be fine. No threads damaged and the nuts went back on fine and tightened up properly. I hadn't done many miles since changing the oil so they didn't have a chance to loosen too much. I checked and cleaned pads, disc and caliper today and all seems in order. Must add that to the list of mistakes I won't make again..

zapata

So in short the lesson learnt today is:
GIVE YOUR NUTS A SQUEEZE!

zapata

In fairness it can hapen to anyone. All it takes is a slight distraction.
I've learned to scan the engine bay before closing the bonnet...

deandean

Absolutely OP, same happened to me a year ago, I noticed the funny noise when braking, I hadn't torqued my nuts:rolleyes:

But this stuff can happen anyone...I left my pride and joy with a respected indy a while back and just happended to notice the dipstick out & across the top of the engine as he closed the bonnet :eek:

fasttalkerchat

I'm assuming you have alloy wheels but if not, you might want to get the wheel checked out that is hasn't buckled slightly.

piston

deandean wrote: »

But this stuff can happen anyone...I left my pride and joy with a respected indy a while back and just happended to notice the dipstick out & across the top of the engine as he closed the bonnet :eek:

A few years ago, a test centre did that with my van when they put the temperature thing into the dipstick tube while doing the emissions test. I got home to find the dipstick sitting down between the radiator and the bonnet slam panel.:mad: