Handpainting pine doors

delly19

Hi all,just bought a house covered in pine doors & skirting-it's very overpowering!!!the doors are decent quality & I can't afford new ones as there's about 20 doors.can someone please give me advice on painting them in white???need advise on what to sand them with,a sander or just some sort of sandpaper??what do I use as primer etc & what sort of paint should I finish them in & do I need to put some sort of finisher over the paint???i was going to get a quote from a painter but I can just imagine the expense!!

woodturner

They would be easy enough to paint. I would give them a good sanding with a random orbital sander first and then use sanding blocks for the mouldings. You may need to apply knotting to the knots so they won't be visible after painting. A good satinwood paint would give them a nice finish. Just my 2 cents.

delly19

woodturner wrote: »

They would be easy enough to paint. I would give them a good sanding with a random orbital sander first and then use sanding blocks for the mouldings. You may need to apply knotting to the knots so they won't be visible after painting. A good satinwood paint would give them a nice finish. Just my 2 cents.

Thanks!!!im a little lost-what do you mean by "apply knotting to the knots"?im new to all this DIY stuff!!!the door has panels so do u recommend painting the panels with a brush or a small roller & if with a roller is there a specific type?

woodturner

Knotting is a sealer that stops resin from bleeding through and affecting the paint. If you just paint the doors without applying it you will see the knots through the discolouring. If you want them to appear handpainted, use a paintbrush from start to finish.

paddy147

This is what you want.

Zinsser BIN knot sealer/primer.

Its expensive,but its the mutts nutts.:D

delly19

woodturner wrote: »

Knotting is a sealer that stops resin from bleeding through and affecting the paint. If you just paint the doors without applying it you will see the knots through the discolouring. If you want them to appear handpainted, use a paintbrush from start to finish.

Great thanks for explaining all to me-new to this DIY lark ðŸ˜

The Kurgan

Personally , I'd probably think about purchasing new doors in stages myself,if they are pine doors it can sometimes take a good few coats to block the pine coming through regardless of what blockers and as many undercoats you put on....

Also if they are panel doors there's a sequence to paint them in... What I would do is paint one and see what the finish is like and then factor in the cost for all the paints /blockers undercoats.....Time etc

I'm not a professional but just my two cents..

cardwizzard

Good advice from the kurgan. Try the process your going with on the interior side of the hotpress or bathroom door. Make sure your happy with that.

I presume the pine doors have being varnished? If they have rent a decent sander, with a dust extractor. Festool orbital is what we use. Remove all the varnish that you can. Go through different grit levels, starting rough and finishing smooth.

Personally I wouldn't use bin in this instance. It has a tendencey to dry rock hard, with out penetratring the wood. This can lead to chipping of the top coat and the woodwork looks like sh88 in no time.

I'd sand, prime it, prep, undercoat and finish it out. Of course as mentioned try it out beforehand without commiting to the whole project first.

Edit. If you want a few pics of how we do it PM me. Or indeed anyone whos interested. This is not me looking for work!!

tred

paddy147 wrote: »

This is what you want.

Zinsser BIN knot sealer/primer.

Its expensive,but its the mutts nutts.:D

over 50 euro a tin. thats more used for painting over rust spots or mould isnt it. for timber you cant beat a good undercoat, wiht your colour to follow. Id be advising the OP, to really think about this. Amount of effort. and if you dont paint those doors right, theyll look crap. there are lads out there,who can spray them, sometimes more affordable. even if u just spray downstairs..