Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

What oil for back end of fiat 100-90

  • 09-02-2012 1:14pm
    #1
    redzerologhlen
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,329 ✭✭✭


    Well, anyone know. Backend is gone a bit low in it


Comments

  • #2
    5live
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,438 ✭✭✭5live


    Universal i used always use. I think its 15W40 but not certain


  • #3
    kingstown
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 208 ✭✭kingstown


    Go with something like All Farm 15w/30 or if you require something better Agri-Supreme 10w/30
    These grades are designed for both engine (turbo & non turbo) and back end - Hyd's & wet brakes etc of standard older tractors.

    Semi synthetic would be something like 10w/40 but wouldn't think a Fiat 110-90 would need semi synthetic oil


  • #4
    GERMAN ROCKS
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,796 ✭✭✭GERMAN ROCKS


    since you dont know what is already in it i would change the oil and hydraulic filter and reaplce oil with 10w30


  • #5
    redzerologhlen
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,329 ✭✭✭redzerologhlen


    GERMAN ROCKS wrote: »
    since you dont know what is already in it i would change the oil and hydraulic filter and reaplce oil with 10w30
    Just back from motor factors, got 5 gallons of 10w30 and a filter. Only have about 100 hours done on the tractor since we bought it so havnt serviced it yet. The hydraulics are cruel slow when you start the tractor in the morning but grand after about an hour when the oil warms and thins a bit. Would you put this down to worn out oil or a blocked filter. Don't want to go emptying the back end unless I'm sure I have to cause it ain't cheap to fill.


  • #6
    corkcomp
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,114 ✭✭✭corkcomp


    redzerologhlen wrote: »
    Just back from motor factors, got 5 gallons of 10w30 and a filter. Only have about 100 hours done on the tractor since we bought it so havnt serviced it yet. The hydraulics are cruel slow when you start the tractor in the morning but grand after about an hour when the oil warms and thins a bit. Would you put this down to worn out oil or a blocked filter. Don't want to go emptying the back end unless I'm sure I have to cause it ain't cheap to fill.
    I would empty it to be honest, anyone I know who has been careless with back end oil / filter changes nearly always ends up with an expensive repair bill at some point. also very likely the previous owner / dealer didnt change it before you bought it because as you say it isn't cheap. The hyd pumps on the 90 series wouldn't be the most reliable but start with oil and filter and if it turns out to be the pump its not as expensive as other models to replace and its easy to get at too, on the side of engine block.


  • Advertisement
  • #7
    the al kid
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 87 ✭✭the al kid


    Also beware the gearbox may be separate to the hydraulics and will need separate checking.Some had combined resevoirs,some hadnt -ask someone who knows a bit about them.
    Al


  • #8
    redzerologhlen
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,329 ✭✭✭redzerologhlen


    corkcomp wrote: »
    redzerologhlen wrote: »
    Just back from motor factors, got 5 gallons of 10w30 and a filter. Only have about 100 hours done on the tractor since we bought it so havnt serviced it yet. The hydraulics are cruel slow when you start the tractor in the morning but grand after about an hour when the oil warms and thins a bit. Would you put this down to worn out oil or a blocked filter. Don't want to go emptying the back end unless I'm sure I have to cause it ain't cheap to fill.
    I would empty it to be honest, anyone I know who has been careless with back end oil / filter changes nearly always ends up with an expensive repair bill at some point. also very likely the previous owner / dealer didnt change it before you bought it because as you say it isn't cheap. The hyd pumps on the 90 series wouldn't be the most reliable but start with oil and filter and if it turns out to be the pump its not as expensive as other models to replace and its easy to get at too, on the side of engine block.
    Ya I was thinking myself it's probably the best thing to do. I would say the pump is ok because when the oil warms the hydraulics work grand. Anyone have any idea how much oil it takes to fill them. I'd say you wouldn't see a can inside in it.


  • #9
    corkcomp
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,114 ✭✭✭corkcomp


    redzerologhlen wrote: »
    Ya I was thinking myself it's probably the best thing to do. I would say the pump is ok because when the oil warms the hydraulics work grand. Anyone have any idea how much oil it takes to fill them. I'd say you wouldn't see a can inside in it.


    cant remember exactly but you WILL need to purchase a second 5 gallon drum at least, I know its expensive but its essential! The last tractor I changed the back end oil on took 14 gallons :mad:


  • #10
    redzerologhlen
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,329 ✭✭✭redzerologhlen


    the al kid wrote: »
    Also beware the gearbox may be separate to the hydraulics and will need separate checking.Some had combined resevoirs,some hadnt -ask someone who knows a bit about them.
    Al
    Ya I remember the mechanic saying that to me when we bought it. Will get a full service done on her soon. Just no point putting new oil into the back of her if it's going to be emptied in another 20 hours, it would be the one thing to do it now.


  • #11
    redzerologhlen
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,329 ✭✭✭redzerologhlen


    corkcomp wrote: »
    redzerologhlen wrote: »
    Ya I was thinking myself it's probably the best thing to do. I would say the pump is ok because when the oil warms the hydraulics work grand. Anyone have any idea how much oil it takes to fill them. I'd say you wouldn't see a can inside in it.


    cant remember exactly but you WILL need to purchase a second 5 gallon drum at least, I know its expensive but its essential! The last tractor I changed the back end oil on took 14 gallons :mad:
    I'll get 2 more cans tomorrow to hell, no harm to have a bit spare anyway


  • Advertisement
  • #12
    Ford4000
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 373 ✭✭Ford4000


    Thats the right thing to do, the 10w30 might speed up the process when its cold, could be universal thats in it and its a right thick oil and does be slow to warm,


  • #13
    GERMAN ROCKS
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,796 ✭✭✭GERMAN ROCKS


    Ford4000 wrote: »
    Thats the right thing to do, the 10w30 might speed up the process when its cold, could be universal thats in it and its a right thick oil and does be slow to warm,

    this is what i would be thinking. it could be everything combined. filter could be a bit blocked. pump could be old and suffering arthritis but i would say oil is probably being too thick is your main thing


  • #14
    blue5000
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,754 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    Redzer were you doing tipper trailer work?

    Reason I ask is on 110-90 when you are letting down the trailer fast some oil splashes up out of the back end into the gearbox, but there is no way for it to get back to the back end.

    I presume the 100-90 might be the same, check the oil level in the gearbox, you might see some extra oil in there. I don't know if it's ok to drain some of the extra oil from the gearbox and put it in the back end or not, but it is being done.

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • #15
    pakalasa
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,552 ✭✭✭pakalasa


    It would be worth your while changing the oil completely and putting in a new filter. Change it when you don't expect to be busy with the tractor for a while. Speaking from experience on this one.
    The hydraulics will probably act up for a while. When you drain out the oil fully, you will loosen all type of sludge and dirt inside that can cause problems. These can get trapped in small areas of the valves etc. The filter will catch everything eventually.


  • #16
    redzerologhlen
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,329 ✭✭✭redzerologhlen


    blue5000 wrote: »
    Redzer were you doing tipper trailer work?

    Reason I ask is on 110-90 when you are letting down the trailer fast some oil splashes up out of the back end into the gearbox, but there is no way for it to get back to the back end.

    I presume the 100-90 might be the same, check the oil level in the gearbox, you might see some extra oil in there. I don't know if it's ok to drain some of the extra oil from the gearbox and put it in the back end or not, but it is being done.
    Have plenty of new oil anyway blue. I went all out and bought mobil!! Ya had a dump trailer on it for the last week. I'll open the stud on the side of the gearbox and see what way it is. 100-90 and 110-90 are the exact same I think except for the injectors and the pump.


  • #17
    redzerologhlen
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,329 ✭✭✭redzerologhlen


    Just changed the oil and filter there now. Made an awful difference altogether. Blew out a weathered old pipe on the loader nearly straight away, the old filter must have been restricting the flow something awful!!


  • #18
    farmer_nilsson
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16 ✭farmer_nilsson


    redzerologhlen wrote: »
    Ya I was thinking myself it's probably the best thing to do. I would say the pump is ok because when the oil warms the hydraulics work grand. Anyone have any idea how much oil it takes to fill them. I'd say you wouldn't see a can inside in it.

    According to my inst.manual for the 110-90 the amount should be 46,1 liters of Tutela Multi F 20W30 oil for the brakes, lift, final drives and 11,7 liters for the gears.

    If I understand correctly there is only 1 place to fill all oil to hydraulics, back brakes, gears and lift and that is in the back end by the 3-p lift? Have I missed something? Also a new 110-90 owner :-)


Advertisement