Ford Fiesta Lx Problem!

emzippy

Hi All,

I'd really appreciate some help because I'm not very knowledge of cars. In March 2011 I bought a 2005 Ford Fiesta Lx 1.25L from a dealer and have had nothing but problems.

For the last few months the engine has been cutting out intermittently when I'm driving. Prior to this difficulty starting, the cylinder head (not sure if that's the correct terminology) went and was replaced by the garage it was purchased from.

They kept it in for a week but they can't find the problem. The informed me that they drove it all week and ran diagnostics however they cannot find a fault.

Is anyone familiar with fords and know what the problem might be? I'm at my wits end with this car. I'm provide further info if needed. Any help is really really appreciated!

Thanks

Paddypowered

emzippy wrote: »

Hi All,

I'd really appreciate some help because I'm not very knowledge of cars. In March 2011 I bought a 2005 Ford Fiesta Lx 1.25L from a dealer and have had nothing but problems.

For the last few months the engine has been cutting out intermittently when I'm driving. Prior to this difficulty starting, the cylinder head (not sure if that's the correct terminology) went and was replaced by the garage it was purchased from.

They kept it in for a week but they can't find the problem. The informed me that they drove it all week and ran diagnostics however they cannot find a fault.

Is anyone familiar with fords and know what the problem might be? I'm at my wits end with this car. I'm provide further info if needed. Any help is really really appreciated!

Thanks

No fault codes whatsoever?? Engine cutting out should log a fault...only a temporary fault if the fiesta is starting straight after...is it?? Lot of things it could be...but if no faults logged normally it's mechanical and not a sensor...eg fuel pump, was this problem occurring before the head went??

patwicklow

Have a look under the glove box and see if there is a reset button or info on your manual thats what was wrong with my gf,s car, it kept cutting off driving around some thing to do with petrol cut off in a crash and does go off if driven over a speed ramp or some thing

corktina

Coil pack is my guess.Zetecs fry them regulalrly.

IF it is, its a quick easy fix...you can do it yourself in 15 minutes and will cost sub €50

Plug

^^^^ That would bring up fault codes though.

corktina

only during a fault presumably.....they can be fine one minute and then act up and be fine again later....

you'd expect a garage to know that though wouldn't you..?

emzippy

Paddypowered wrote: »

No fault codes whatsoever?? Engine cutting out should log a fault...only a temporary fault if the fiesta is starting straight after...is it?? Lot of things it could be...but if no faults logged normally it's mechanical and not a sensor...eg fuel pump, was this problem occurring before the head went??

No, they told me that there is no fault at all being logged. I have to restart the ignition when it happens but it starts again no problem. I've been taking it to a ford dealership and they've just been scrathing their heads.

No, this problem only started after the head went. Could they have done something when they were replacing the head that is now causing this? If that's the case it should be still covered under the warranty. At the minute I'm paying for it.

They emailed me to say:

"I Have just come off the phone from Ford technical. They have suggested we replace the vacuum pipe on the brake servo which has an internal valve which they believe may be sticking. The price of the pipe is £37.29 incl and I would fit it free of charge. This seems as good a place as any to make a start without having any further information to go on".

Does this seem like it could be the problem?

Thanks for all your advice so far everyone.

ford jedi

did ur car overheat and do the cylinder head in? if there are no fault codes and the head been off , i would be double checking my valve timing might be out a fraction . also is the car just not idling properly or cutting out intermittintely? is your car only stalling on roundabouts and when coming to a standstill?

there are a pile of later calibrations for that car for stalling and etb update progs,, the vacum pipe is clutching at staws .

emzippy

ford jedi wrote: »

did ur car overheat and do the cylinder head in? if there are no fault codes and the head been off , i would be double checking my valve timing might be out a fraction . also is the car just not idling properly or cutting out intermittintely? is your car only stalling on roundabouts and when coming to a standstill?

there are a pile of later calibrations for that car for stalling and etb update progs,, the vacum pipe is clutching at staws .

The car didn't overheat on one occasion per say - it was an ongoing problem where there was a burning smell and white smoke coming from the engine when I drove it for a long period of time. Coolant was leaking out onto something as far as they told me, causing the white smoke. I was always still able to drive the car.

It's idling ok, a little bit noisier than when I first got it but it's not cutting out then, yes it's cutting out at roundabout, junctions etc - bascially when I'm slowing down - it's intermittent in the fact that it only happens sometimes.

Am I better to just take it to a mechanic that knows what they're talking about - ford jedi you seem to know what you're talking about much more than the ford garage that I've been dealing with.

Does anyone know of any mechanic in Galway who would be able to help me?

ford jedi

ok a few quick things.. u said you were at a ford garage yeah? ask them are your cars clibrations up to date as there were a few to address fiesta stalling problems , second they may be missing one small problem which dosent show up during a scan than than cause your problem which will be the psp/power steering switch. this is why i asked does it cut out turning etc as the ecu dosent expect a load to come on the engine and can adjust its self.

if you sit in the car with the engine idleing no feet on pedals , look at the rpm then full lock the steeiring you should see the need take a small dip then rise by an extra 100 rpm and redip.if the rpm just drops you know its and psp switch. the wires commonly break on them and they also go faulty

check that out see how u get on

alexlyons

One thing I've found with garages is they say they drove it all week and put 4 miles on the clock, so take a note of the reading before it goes in and see if they're bluffing you. Might indicate theyre lying about stuff. Write it down, don't memorize it, you'll be amazed what you forget in a week!

Hate to make you think they're not doing what they said but unfortunately it happens quite often now adays. They're probably bang on and just confused, it's just something to look at.

emzippy

ford jedi wrote: »

if you sit in the car with the engine idleing no feet on pedals , look at the rpm then full lock the steeiring you should see the need take a small dip then rise by an extra 100 rpm and redip.if the rpm just drops you know its and psp switch. the wires commonly break on them and they also go faulty

check that out see how u get on

I tried turning the steering wheel like you said, when I turn it to the left it dips, rises very slightly and then dips again but when I turn it full lock to the right it just dips until I release the wheel again.

Thanks so much for your help!

Ford Doctor

Hi,if the fault is there only after the cylinder was fitted,then that's your starting point.Who fit the headgasket was it a ford main dealer or an indepent garage.Is the car not covered under waranty after the cyl head was done.The Kam(keep alive memory) codes may need to be reset (not engine light codes).But a dealer would know this,would have to be done on a ford machine (ids).Does the fault happen mostly when hot ?.

emzippy

Ford Doctor wrote: »

Hi,if the fault is there only after the cylinder was fitted,then that's your starting point.Who fit the headgasket was it a ford main dealer or an indepent garage.Is the car not covered under waranty after the cyl head was done.The Kam(keep alive memory) codes may need to be reset (not engine light codes).But a dealer would know this,would have to be done on a ford machine (ids).Does the fault happen mostly when hot ?.

The main ford dealer where I purchased the car fitted the cylinder. The car isn't covered under warranty anymore as it was only covered for six months - up until the end of Sept 2011. The car doesn't necessarily have to be hot.

They said there was no problem with the psp switch, the checked the crank case breather pipe (as recommended by another mechanic) and fitted a new brake servo and the next day the car cut out on me again while driving. I was driving up a fairly steep hill, turning left at the same time and slowing down as there was a car in front of me so I was turning, clutching to change gear and braking all at the same time. The car always starts again straight away, I just let it roll, put my foot on the clutch and re-started the car.

Is it possible that this ford garage have caused the fault when replacing the cylinder? If so, should I get all my money back for all these useless parts they've put into the car? I really don't know what to do!

Nissan doctor

It sounds like you had the leaking freeze plugs in the head replaced, this is common on these engines.

Often, failing crankshaft sensors will not throw a fault code, and would cause random cutting out.