New build

DanGerMus

So i'm embarking on the self build route.
Just trying to arm myself with as much info as possible before meeting Architects, engineers so on.

I have a house of 140sqm in mind and sketched up. kitchen living room lounge utility and wc down stairs, 3/4 bed one bath and one ensuite upstairs. Point the big windows and living areas at the south keep the cold rooms like utility and bathrooms in the north?
A two storey square plan and hopefully build the roof with a 45degree pitch and built with mind to converting in a few years.

My build budget is 100k to get it to builders finish.
Things to keep in mind are i will be getting plumbing and electrics done at cost through family and also myself. I'll also hope to do as much as i can, things like putting up plaster slabs and the wiring (someone else will be inspecting and signing it off after), i've done both before.

So my questions are whats the best energy performance i could hope to build with that budget?
Whats the most cost effective way to build a house, block, timberframe, icf, etc?
I've looked at many kinds of building but it's very hard to find a cost comparison. Things like block on the flat with external insulation, or wide cavity filled with beads. Then the different kinds of timberframe options.

BryanF

DanGerMus wrote: »

1. whats the best energy performance i could hope to build with that budget?
2. Whats the most cost effective way to build a house, block, timberframe, icf, etc?
3. I've looked at many kinds of building but it's very hard to find a cost comparison.
4. Things like block on the flat with external insulation, or wide cavity filled with beads. Then the different kinds of timberframe options.

1. imo you'll be doing well to meet current regs on your budget (140msq for €100k! )is that including PP, contributions, Pro fees ,waste and service connections? and that's before your not scale or building reg sketches get worked out by your preferred arch. I don't mean to seem harsh here..
2. imo that depends on the what actual work and supervision you'll be doing yourself. But I would imagine the cheapest on paper when pricing will be cavity block. the really issue here imo is your project management skills and the degree of professional involvement supervision you allow
3. http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2056502284
4. imo each has there own pros & cons. basically you get what you pay for and for performance and environmental reasons I'm found of timber frame, but this option is 'on paper' often more expensive especially when only the best guys can be trusted.

imho sometime will have to give for what you want on your budget. what will you allow to suffer when building your home?

• your budget,
• your time/ potential stress
• standards/quality
• or how much you want to pay on heating bills for the rest of buildings life

Do-more

Can't help on the prices, but from my own past experience I'd advise to design the house from the start as if it will be the final 3 storey house you will end up with in the future and then obviously don't complete some of the work to covert.

The extra costs now shouldn't be huge, but it will make the conversion much easier and cheaper in the future.

Some things I mean by this is to put in the stronger joists you need for the attic floor (I think they are 9" rather than the normal 6" ceiling joists)

Design the stairs so that another flight can be added up into the attic without losing 1st. floor hall space. Form the cut-out for the stairs up into the attic and then put noggings across it and plasterboard, that makes it a very simple job to add the extra flight of stairs when funds allow.

Insulate your sloping roof as if the attic was converted now so you won't have to make changes when the attic is converted.

Site your cold water tank so it won't have to be moved.

Bring up central heating pipes and blank them off so it will be a simple job to tap into them when the time comes. likewise an electrical supply.

You need to check on the fire regs. for a 3 storey house, I think the stairwell has to be built as a fire escape so should be double slabbed and all doors opening on to it should be fire rated, perhaps someone else can confirm.

I did most of the above when I built but in the end sold up before converting the attic. We sheeted the floor and had a folding attic stairs and used it for storage from the start and it was great for that at least.

DanGerMus

Just firing up a few floor plans to see what people think. i've drawn them myself so if there's anything dodgy looking dont be afraid to tell me. Top of drawing is facing directly north.

BryanF

pm sent

bruschi

without going into any details at all, you have no south facing window. therfore during peak sunlight hours, there will be no sunlight coming in directly. I would switch it around completley.