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So I want to fit some TRV Thermostatic Valves and I have a few Q's

  • 31-12-2011 12:52am
    #1
    Posts: 15,362 ✭✭✭✭


    Hi all, first time poster in this forum but I've come to use it as a refernce point several times over the years.

    I did a serach and found some info on TRV's and while a lot of previous posts cover my needs, I still have some things that I am unsure of,hence this post. I am looking to do this job myself simply because I can not afford to pay a plumber to complete it.

    Anyway, on with the job at hand.

    I have 20 x Mistral II TRV & Lockshield sets that I intend on using.
    IMG_20111231_001458.jpg

    IMG_20111231_001553.jpg

    If I've read it right, I should be leaving 1 big rad on each floor without a TRV so that will be the big one on the ground floor hallway and the big one in the master bedroom.

    From reviewing videos etc online I've figured out the removal side of things with regards the current valves however I do have a concern where there's a different type of piping as opposed to copper, see below

    IMG_20111231_001643.jpg

    IMG_20111231_001705.jpg


    Is there anything I need to do differently because of that white tubing?

    Thats the first thing I am unsure of. Next post will deal with the draining, refilling & balancing


Comments

  • Posts: 15,362 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Sorry about breaking this into a few posts, but connection is crappy tonight

    So the next thing I have some querys on is the draining, refilling & balancing side of things.

    Is there any easy way to drain the whole system? The way I understand it, I have to open the valve on a ground floor rad, let the water drain out of that one (yes I know, its likely to be black and filthy water so take precautions). I know I need to open the bleed screws (or whatever they are called) upstairs to allow it all to drain out.

    I've looked online and found the following kit.


    Just wondering if I should get it or is there a simpler way that I am not aware of.

    Next, refilling. I took some snaps of some valves etc in the utility room, see below

    IMG_20111231_001818.jpg

    IMG_20111231_001839.jpg

    IMG_20111231_001855.jpg

    There is also a tank buried underneath the sink. I wasnt able to get any good pics so I just shot a vid of it instead.



    I assume this means I have a closed system. To refill it what do I do? Do I go at the valve behind the red tank or do I do something with those valves etc on the countertop?

    Also, I want to add an anti-corrosive (Fernox?). How do I go about doing that with this system? Do I literally pour it into one of the rad's before refilling the system?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,016 ✭✭✭mad m


    I was going to give you a long answer, but the short and curleys of it is....Please get a plumber to do this type of work, a plumber worth his salt will have this done with in an hour or so.

    The video you took of the red tank is your heatings expansion vessel. The valve is your automatic air vent just protrubing out of the boxing. To refill the system you might have an automatic filling loop, other wise you will have to re fill it manually.....

    The other pipe is more than likely qualpex. This is probably upstairs as it was easier to fish into place for the plumber....

    The draining kit is a waste of time....Stick a towel under pipe and get a small pot, it wil do same job....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,953 ✭✭✭aujopimur


    If you don't have basic diy/plumbing skills this work might be beyond you.
    First of all no plumber will drain, fit 20 pairs of valves, refill, balance and check in an hour.
    You may need to drain at a few locations.
    Get rid of the fill valve (the black yoke with the gauge) and fit a filling loop, fit a few drain cocks as you're at it.
    As the system seems fairly new you can save some time by leaving the existing tails in the rads and the caps and cones on the pipes and reuse them.


  • Posts: 15,362 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    hmm, Ive gone and gotten some more quotes.

    I have 4, 1200, 950, 800, and the best one..........250 :pac:

    The top 3 are out of my range, simply can not afford the, and the 250 was from what appears to be an odd-job man, so not going to take that.

    I've no choice but to do this myself. May leave it until the summer though, in case something does go wrong


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,118 ✭✭✭Sparkpea


    Is there no drain valve on the boiler? Normally I'd just put a hose on it and let it run, draining itself could take an hr, refilling shouldnt take as long if its pressurised and testing&balancing an hr maybe. plus the time to fit the valve......


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,953 ✭✭✭aujopimur


    The one for €250 is about right, seeing as it's labour only,the first 3 are a total rip off.


  • Posts: 15,362 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    aujopimur wrote: »
    The one for €250 is about right, seeing as it's labour only,the first 3 are a total rip off.

    Really, hmm ok.

    Ive gotten 2 more quotes since, both at 300 and both from plumbers so i might go with one of those........now just have to find the piggybank ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 336 ✭✭CBYR1983


    I wouldn't send my last 300 on it that's for sure. Payback is long term.


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