Condensation from gas cylinder

Irishgoatman

Who can help me out here I wonder?.

My gas cylinder goes under one of the bench seats/beds. A couple of weeks ago I found, not for the first time, that the front of the cushion was damp and when I lifted the seat I could see that the underside of it was getting mouldy and that the cylinder was covered in condensation.

So the question is what can I do about it?.

Any suggestions welcome, and yes, I have taken the cyl. out for the winter but if I put it back in late winter/early spring I expect the same will happen, warm days and cold nights.

niloc1951

Gees irishgoatman you are breaking all the rules having the cylinder/s under a seat accessible from inside the vehicle. Imagine what would happen if you had a leakage of gas which got ignited :eek::eek:

Here are five of the most important rules, and, compliance is a legal requirement for the safety of not only yourself but anybody within a hundred yards of you.

1. The cylinder compartment should only be accessible from outside the vehicle and air sealed from the interior.
2. If access to the cylinder compartment is required from the inside the vehicle it must be provided via a sealed door or hatch.
3. The cylinder compartments must be permanently ventilated to the exterior of the vehicle.
4. The ventilation must be 2% of the compartments floor area, with a minimum of 10,000mm2. (E.g.100mm X 100mm).
5. It must not be possible for the cylinder/s to obstruct the ventilation area.

Compliance with the above will only solve your condensation problems, but could save your life.
We need you around buddy :D

Irishgoatman

niloc1951 wrote: »

Gees irishgoatman you are breaking all the rules having the cylinder/s under a seat accessible from inside the vehicle. Imagine what would happen if you had a leakage of gas which got ignited :eek::eek:

Here are five of the most important rules, and, compliance is a legal requirement for the safety of not only yourself but anybody within a hundred yards of you.

1. The cylinder compartment should only be accessible from outside the vehicle and air sealed from the interior.
2. If access to the cylinder compartment is required from the inside the vehicle it must be provided via a sealed door or hatch.
3. The cylinder compartments must be permanently ventilated to the exterior of the vehicle.
4. The ventilation must be 2% of the compartments floor area, with a minimum of 10,000mm2. (E.g.100mm X 100mm).
5. It must not be possible for the cylinder/s to obstruct the ventilation area.

Compliance with the above will only solve your condensation problems, but could save your life.
We need you around buddy :D

I thought someone would tell me this, the only problem is that the camper was designed with the gas where it is and there is no way at all that it could be anywhere else!!!!
It's a 1986 Romahome.
Gas fridge (which I don't use as I don't cook when I'm away), A gas hob with grill and a gas heater which I also don't use.
I do make a point of turning the gas off when not needed but other than doing away with it altogether what else can I do?.
I'll contact the U.K. Romahome club and see what they have to say.

Thanks niloc

spaceHopper

Insunlate it and put in one of the crystal dehumidifers, if there isn't a hole in the floor the consider putting in one, then block it up with other crap that collects as mine has

Malta1

spaceHopper wrote: »

Insunlate it and put in one of the crystal dehumidifers, if there isn't a hole in the floor the consider putting in one, the block it up with other crap that collects as mine has

While not ideal, the idea of insulating it would definitely help to resolve the condensation issue......even something like the "lagging jackets" that can be put on domestic hot water cylinders would help (although you would want to scale it down )

Agree with above poster though about cylinder external/isolated from van habitation area as the ideal way to resolve the issue (and also the added benefit of keeping you safe)

defike

A 12v gas detector alarm could be fitted.Seen the for sale on ebay.

Irishgoatman

Malta1 wrote: »

While not ideal, the idea of insulating it would definitely help to resolve the condensation issue......even something like the "lagging jackets" that can be put on domestic hot water cylinders would help (although you would want to scale it down )

Agree with above poster though about cylinder external/isolated from van habitation area as the ideal way to resolve the issue (and also the added benefit of keeping you safe)

Thanks folks, The idea of lagging it seems to be the ideal way to go.
Not sure, spacehopper, what you mean about drilling a hole, if you mean for ventilation, the camper has good vents in the door, because of the gas heater and another one for the hob.

Thanks,defike, for the detector alarm tip. I'll def. get one regardless of what else I do.

As I said in my original post, there is no way for the cylinder to be located anywhere else. Apart from a solar panel I fitted to the roof ( which charges the leisure batt. which the camper never had) it is exactly as it came out of the factory on the Isle of Wight in 1986, right down to the carpet and curtains. I've one of the original advertising leaflets for it.:)

Again, many thanks. If anyone has other ideas let me know.

spaceHopper

Irishgoatman wrote: »

Thanks folks, The idea of lagging it seems to be the ideal way to go.
Not sure, spacehopper, what you mean about drilling a hole, if you mean for ventilation, the camper has good vents in the door, because of the gas heater and another one for the hob.

Thanks,defike, for the detector alarm tip. I'll def. get one regardless of what else I do.

As I said in my original post, there is no way for the cylinder to be located anywhere else. Apart from a solar panel I fitted to the roof ( which charges the leisure batt. which the camper never had) it is exactly as it came out of the factory on the Isle of Wight in 1986, right down to the carpet and curtains. I've one of the original advertising leaflets for it.:)

Again, many thanks. If anyone has other ideas let me know.

Normally you have a hole in the floor about the size of a two euro coin the gas is heavier than air and will fall out of the van a vent high up might not work.

Irishgoatman

spaceHopper wrote: »

Normally you have a hole in the floor about the size of a two euro coin the gas is heavier than air and will fall out of the van a vent high up might not work.

Right, I see. The vent in the rear door for the heater is actually lower than the cylinder because there's a step down. So this might actually do.

As I always make a point of turning the gas off when it's not going to be used for a few hours, and I only use the hob for boiling a kettle, I think I'll go with insulation/lagging jacket and a gas detector.

Many thanks.