Solo female to Kenya/Tanzania

Pocahontas

Hi all,

Feeling adventurous so thinking of heading to East Africa for 3 weeks in November. fairly seasoned solo traveller in Asia/Oz but just wondering if anyone has experience travelling alone in Africa.

will probably sign up to an overland truck tour for 1/2 weeks but thinking of hanging out in Nairobi at the start and Zanzibar at the end for a few days.

any thoughts/tips for Kenya and Zanzibar would be much appreciated!!

ta

p.s. was looking at detourafrica.co.za if anyone has used them?

bungaro79

was in zanzibar last month with the missus and loved it. stayed on the north east coast for a week and the rest of the time in stone town. i really liked stone town but usual precautions there like in asia ie avoid beaches at night, same with walking alone in dark streets, common sense stuff that you probably know from previous travels. in zanzibar its majority muslim so they do appreciate the shoulders and knees being covered. there are alot of really good markets behind the old fort so you can buy your presents there, stay away from the upmarket places which charge 3 or 4 times the price for the same stuff!
for tanzania you will need the yellow fever vaccination, we were asked for it at every airport, regardless of whether it was a domestic or international flight. last thing is zanzibar airport is pretty corrupt, you'll have people trying to get a "tip" for everything and i've heard of people being pressured into giving up a nice few bucks as they didn't know what was going on!

Pocahontas

thanks!

it looks fab. have read mostly good things about travelling around there but just wanted to check. hopefully there will be some decent backpacker accommodation on the island!

Civilian_Target

Best advice I can say is not to worry to much about the schedule - people are very chill there, nothing happens fast. Give yourself a few days slack at the end of the tour before your flight in case things get delayed. And remember, not only is everything negotiable, but in fact, you should always negotiate!

Broads.ie

Zanzibar has those perfect paradise beaches you see in the brochures. I was there this year. The only problem is that it is so touristy... bordering on outrageous. You won't get any peace walking through Stone Town as there will be guys following you around trying to sell all sorts of stuff, from tours and dives to little trinkets and shirts and whatnot, and some of them can get offended if you decline their goods and see you a while later buying other stuff. I was called racist :eek:.

But it is quite safe, I walked around there at night (25 yr old male). And there is a great fish market there that only gets going after dark where you can get all sorts. The fish is barbequed on skewers and sold for fairly cheap. Some of the more interesting things I tried were barracuda, squids head and baby shark. But you can also get chips and stuff. There are also a few nice bars dotted around.

There is a small village up north called Nungwi, which has great clean white sand beaches and a lot less hassle from hawkers. There is a tourist lodge called Kendwa Rocks there, although that was booked out when I arrived so found some other cheap dingy place for $10 a night. I have attached a pic of the beach by the village.

Overall I didn't like Tanzania. It was hard to find somebody who spoke good English and absolutely everybody wants to rip Mr. Whitey off.

Kenya is great though, I much prefer it. And Kenyans are generally easier to talk to as their English is good and I found them to be quite sharp. It also has great beaches all along the east coast. From Mombasa to Lamu (don't go too far past Lamu though!) My fave backpackers is Mombasa backpackers, run by a Peruvian dude. Really chilled place and great if you're a lone traveler.

I love Nairobi, it's a really modern city with skscrapers where you can buy and do anything. It is great for ladies who want to do shopping too as there are a few markets dotted around. You can even go ice skating!! I would recommend Milimani Backpackers, where you can get a dorm room for about 6 or 7 euro a night. It's a very safe spot and they have the friendliest dog ever... which is great as people generally don't keep pets in Kenya so you never really get to see them on the street except or the ragged stray ones.

Nightlife in Nairobi is great too, pubs and clubs stay open till all hours and I tell ya the Kenyans can drink.

Nairobi can be quite dangerous after dark, although nothing happened to me other than having my phone picked... three times! I was in Nairobi for a good few months just hanging out having fun. Anyway, avoid walking after dark. If you're up town make sure you are either in a pub, restaurant, taxi or at the hostel by 7 or 8pm. Don't be walking around the streets.

Uganda is my fave country overall though, much more relaxed, more "African", safer, their cuisine is better (Kenya's is plain shuyte). Why isn't it on your itinerary? It's a 12 hour bus from Nairobi and Irish people get in for free!!

I'm really rubbish at writing general tips, cos I could go on all night. Do you have any specific questions?


Ps. I was traveling alone. And I met tonnes of lone female travellers too, they had no problems. Just keep your wits about you and just don't be silly! Also, avoid those overland bus tours. It's much better to do it on your own, and you'll feel better about yourself. You will also probably save a few hundred quid too (beer money!!!)

At the tourist hostels you will surely find somebody to travel somewhere with.

johnners2981

I'm not sure if you've heard but.... there are lions in africa. Put me right off going there

solovely

Did similar to you last year, but with my sisters.

Joined an overland from Nairobi to Zanzibar with Acacia, they were great, and it was nearly all solo female travellers on the trip. Got loads in and it was great value all things considered.

Spent a few days in Nairobi at the beginning and end, and spent a few days in Zanzibar after the overland tour departed.

Stayed in Milimani backpackers in Nairobi - lots of female solo travellers there, good fun, good vibe and good value.

You meet a lot of guys travelling solo, but almost all girls tend to do overland. It's just safer and easier. I've done SE Asia too, but wouldn't attempt Africa alone - the travelling part I mean - being in Nairobi or Zanzibar would be fine, but bussing it, organising safaris, etc. you could feel a bit vulnerable. I was always against group tours, and parts of it did annoy me, but overlanding really is great fun, and you meet great people, plus you get a lot more out of it that you would trying to organise it on your own - especially if time is limited. You get all your safaris included, food, transport, etc. and Africa is not the easiest continent to organise logistically, and you are constantly being ripped off. So while you might pay a bit more, at least you know you are not being ripped off and everything will be done right. If I was a guy I probably wouldn't do it, but as a girl, think it's definitely the better option!

If you stay in a hostel (like Milimani's) in Nairobi you will meet lots of other solo travellers to do all the stuff with. Main things to do are Carnivore restaurant, Giraffe sanctuary, elephant orphanage, the markets...oh, and if you get a gang together go to the Ethopian restaurant and Casblanca nightclub, both walking distance from Milimani's.

In Zanzibar - Stonetown is fine for solo travellers, but the resorts tend to be a bit couply. If you arrive with your overland group though, at least one other will probably be finishing there too so you'll have someone to hang with. Go to Nungwi if you can (but avoid Sunset Bungalows!!).

Just read broads.ie post there - seems to have a lot of the same advice...although I'd have to disagree on Tanzanai v Kenya - I preferred Tanzania, found it more vibrant and the people more open and friendly. But both are great countries. Definitely think you should do it!!!

Broads.ie

solovely wrote: »

Joined an overland from Nairobi to Zanzibar with Acacia, they were great, and it was nearly all solo female travellers on the trip.

Sorry to nitpick but you're not a solo traveller if you're packed on a bus with 20 other tourists for a whole 2 weeks!!!

By the way I'm not one of those stuck-up-their-own-arse backpackers who scoffs at these tour buses... I'm saying it's much more rewarding doing everything by yourself. I'm imploring you to do it! (I do hate voluntourists though... that's a rant for another day)

mectavba

Sorry to hijack thread, but...

Broads.ie, im going from Cairo to Cape Town in January (solo) and plan to go to Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda and Tanzania. I was thinking of trying to get a tent once in Kenya as there seems to be a lot of camping options (which are cheaper) at most of the hostels, in these countries.

Did you camp or come across many others that did?

Also, when you went to Uganda, did you come back into Kenya? Did you have a single or multi entrance visa for Kenya?

Cheers

Broads.ie

mectavba wrote: »

Sorry to hijack thread, but...

Broads.ie, im going from Cairo to Cape Town in January (solo) and plan to go to Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda and Tanzania. I was thinking of trying to get a tent once in Kenya as there seems to be a lot of camping options (which are cheaper) at most of the hostels, in these countries.

Did you camp or come across many others that did?

Also, when you went to Uganda, did you come back into Kenya? Did you have a single or multi entrance visa for Kenya?

Cheers

Yeah there were a good few people camping. Although the most popular backpackers in Nairobi doesn't have a lot of camping space at all. It acutally doesn't even have one piece of grass, you'll have to pitch the tent on some hard mud.

http://www.milimanibackpackers.com

There is another option in Nairobi called Upperhill Campsite that has a fairly big green area, a bit further out of town but is a nicer looking place, with great food. http://www.upperhillcampsite.com

There is also the Wildebeest Campsite but I've never tried it. http://www.wildebeestcamp.com

Out of the three I would choose Milimani Backpackers, it's more conducive to sessioning! You can stay up all night there and drink and chat by the fire they light every night, and there is a taxi stand literally 5 seconds walk from their gate. With the other two places you'll have to call the taxis in through the reception, which will cost you a bit more money.

If you're buying a tent in Kenya just go to any of the Nakumatt stores (the Kenyan version of Tesco) where you will find a good selection. The 24hr "Nakumatt Prestige" has the best selection of tents. While there are a few outdoor specialist shops, (Extreme Outdoors in Yaya center if you want to have a look) the prices are very high.

Camping in Uganda is very possible. No worries at all there. And you will be glad to know that it is a very safe country, in fact I've never felt safer. You can get pick pocketed and stuff, but there are no scumbags that will violently rob you. The best nightlife you can find is right next to one of the main slums where all sorts mingle. My fave hostel is Kampala Backpackers, run by an old Ozzie dude with a huge garden that has lots of tree shade, but there is another option called the Red Chilli. Most of the big towns have backpacker options. If not, there are always cheap lodges.

Camping in Rwanda is pretty much non existent. There aren't even any backpacker hostels there. In Kigali I stayed in a cheap hotel within walking distance to the city center. I've heard stories of backpackers pitching tents in Church run lodges though, so I'm fairly sure it's possible. I don't have a clue where these missionary places are though. Again, a very safe place. I stumbled to and from the clubs alone at all hours. There is only one ATM in all of Rwanda that accepts international cards, and that's only Visa, and sometimes it doesn't work. It didn't work for me so I had to withdraw over the counter in one of the banks. Just bear that in mind.

I didn't stay in Tanzania for too long, so I don't have too much knowledge on it... but there is a great campsite in Dar es Salaam called Mikadi, run by a guy from Chile. http://www.mikadibeach.com Dar es Salaam is kind of crappy, I guess the only tourists there are on route to Zanzibar. In Mikadi beach you can camp right beside the Indian ocean and while it is a bit far from the city center, it's a great relaxing spot. (with bar & food & pooltable). The other touristy towns in Tanzania like Moshi and Arusha surely have campsites.

If you have a Kenyan visa you can go to Uganda and back if you want. When you're going back into Kenya just hand them the visa they stamped you out with, and they'll stamp you back in. I think you have three months before it expires... But why are you going back to Kenya? Look at the map, from Kenya - Uganda - Rwanda - Tanzania is almost all the way around Lake Victoria.

Any more questions just ask, don't worry about hijacking! :pac:

solovely

Broads.ie wrote: »

Sorry to nitpick but you're not a solo traveller if you're packed on a bus with 20 other tourists for a whole 2 weeks!!!

By the way I'm not one of those stuck-up-their-own-arse backpackers who scoffs at these tour buses... I'm saying it's much more rewarding doing everything by yourself. I'm imploring you to do it! (I do hate voluntourists though... that's a rant for another day)

I was one of those stuck-up-their-own-arse backpackers who scoffed at tour buses, and while I wouldn't say I'm converted to overland tours, I do think there's a time and place for them. That being if time is limited, if you're female and feel unsafe and if you are nervous about logistics. If you're on a long backpacking trip and a confident traveller, definitely do it independent, but if it's a 2-4 week holiday you're after and want to pack as much in as possible, I'd recommend overlanding for at least a part of it (we did 12 days overlanding as part of a 21 day - actually 28 day thanks to ash cloud - trip, which was the perfect balance).

Not sure if you've ever done an overland tour, but it's very different to a coach tour - tends to be almost all 25-34 year olds, people genuinely interested in culture and adventure, you stay in tents, you learn about the people and place, you stay up late drinking too, make new friends. You are not on a bus either (and they get very upset if you call it a bus). You are on a big overland truck for the long journeys, but break up every day into smaller 4WDs. It's very different to the perception of a crowded coach tour. That said there are some downsides - you do feel overprotetected at times, you do get sick of the other people and you do (or I did) definitely get fed up of being herded around from a to b.

And by solo travellers, I mean people who arrive and depart on their own. Even as a seasoned backpacker you are rarely alone alone.

Oh, and I agree with you on the voluntourists - I'll join in on your rant whenever you have it!

mectavba

Broads, fair play for all that info.

I'd say I will try get a tent in Nairobi then.

I was asking about the visa for returning through Uganda and Kenya after Rwanda because I have read that it is quicker and easier doing that route to get over to Dar es salaam/Zanzibar than if you go through Tanzania starting from the Rwanda border. Seems like the roads are some of the worst around. Might be a bit of an adventure, but it's good to know that I wont have to shell out a load more money on new visas.

Where in Rwanda did you go? What did you think? It's hard enough to find out good info on it.

Broads.ie

Yeah actually I was going to go to Dar es Salaam (cool backpackers just call it "Dar" )from Kigoma (close to Rwanda) by train, supposed to be really nice, like a classic African journey type thing, but then I heard that the track was closed due to flood damage, and there was NO WAY IN HELL I was travelling 40hours + on a bus across to Dar. So I made my way back to Uganda. Then I went to Kenya. Then I went back to Uganda! Then back to Kenya. :eek: The Kenyan visa you get is multiple entry, no need to ask specifically.

Maybe the train line is fixed by now, it might be something to look into. The journey starts in Kigoma... check it out. By the way, the Tanzanian visa is $100 so you'll be shelling out money no matter what. That's another reason I'm not on good terms with Tanzania!

In Rwanda I went to Kigali of course, to check out the genocide museums and genocide churches etc etc. After the first genocide memorial I got sick of it. It was too depressing, so I hung out with a friendly Rwandese crowd I met at my hotel for the following week or so, drinking, clubbing, the odd restaurant here and there. Walking around Kigali (very clean city) and I even took a swim in the Milles Collines (Hotel Rwanda). I was experiencing the New Rwanda while the genocide tourists were wallowing in the Old Rwanda, looking at dessicated corpses and smashed baby skulls. Then some unknown group started throwing grenades around the city :eek: so I got my white ass out of there and took a trip to a lakeside village called Kibuye, FCUKIN BEAUTIFUL PLACE. Go there. Relax, swim, drink beer. Repeat. This was the view from my room.



And the drive from Kigali is amazing, you'll be stunned by the scenery.

After that I went back to Kigali, a bit of sessioning, then back down towards Burundi. There's not much to do in Rwanda. You can do the gorillas, but I had already done that in Uganda. There is a national park, but it doesn't have any lions... There's another lakeside town called Gisenyi, kind of touristy I heard, but it's a stones throw from Goma City in the D.R.C. if you want to check out the Congo for a day. Rwanda is a very scenic country though, check it out for a week or so. Actually to be fair, the Genocide Memorial Museum in Kigali is worth a visit. It's very well maintained and pretty informative. It also had a very very beautiful receptionist when I was there :pac:. The Rwandese ladies are supposed to be the most beautiful in East Africa. I'll let you decide for yourself.

By the way how are you making your way towards East Africa, are you entering Uganda from Sudan? Because the Ethipoia / Kenya border is closed.