Turn off HKC alarm system

Readyhed

I have a HKC Secure Watch Alamr system. I want to install some ceiling coving and I need to move a motion detector down a few inches. I cannot open this without setting off the alarm even is the system is unset.

Any advise would be appreciated.

altor

Readyhed wrote: »

I have a HKC Secure Watch Alamr system. I want to install some ceiling coving and I need to move a motion detector down a few inches. I cannot open this without setting off the alarm even is the system is unset.

Any advise would be appreciated.

When you open the PIR the alarm will activate, if you then put in your user code this will turn off the alarm and allow you move the PIR down. Just be careful not to short out the 12v on the PIR while doing this.

KoolKid

That's what its supposed to do. Just disarm the alarm with your code. Move the device & then close it back up. When done check all zones are closed & the system sets OK.

Readyhed

Thanks folks. My problem is that the unit is jammed against the ceiling and I can't figure how to open it. Also there are two wires going into it one of which I guess is a power supply.

I'm guessing you squeeze it at both ends but I am reluctant to mess too much with it unless I can turn off the power. I'm guessing the system has stepped down the voltage going to the PIR but I am not sure. Perhaps you can advise.

Thanks

KoolKid

Have you taken the screw out.

altor

Readyhed wrote: »

Thanks folks. My problem is that the unit is jammed against the ceiling and I can't figure how to open it. Also there are two wires going into it one of which I guess is a power supply.

I'm guessing you squeeze it at both ends but I am reluctant to mess too much with it unless I can turn off the power. I'm guessing the system has stepped down the voltage going to the PIR but I am not sure. Perhaps you can advise.

Thanks

Yes, it is stepped down to 12v. There is usually some point to press against with a screw drive, if it is that tight more than likely at the bottom.

Readyhed

altor wrote: »

Yes, it is stepped down to 12v. There is usually some point to press against with a screw drive, if it is that tight more than likely at the bottom.

It is there alright. I'm good to go now.

Thanks a Million Folks.

altor

Readyhed wrote: »

It is there alright. I'm good to go now.

Thanks a Million Folks.

Your welcome, any other problems let us know.

Readyhed

Hi folks,
I need a little additional assistance with this. I would really appreciate some help.

I left this item until I finished the decorating which took a lot longer than I expected.
To cut a long story short the PIR unit was doubling as a junction box connecting the front windows of the house.
In the process of moving the PIR I lost the wiring for the Windows. Here is the scenario:
The PIR has two cables going into it:
Cable 1 (6 core) Red, Black, Yellow, Blue, White, Green.
Cable 2 (4 core) Orange, Black, Yellow, Blue.

The 2nd cable services the windows.

An image of the Window device is attached - WindowWiring.jpg. this shows the way cable 2 is wired into it.
Cable 1 has 4 wires connected to to PIR (Blue, Red, Black and Yellow) White and Green are free presumably they are for the Windows alarm and tamper connections.
I have re-connected the PIR as shown in the attached diagram - "Wiring.jpg". This shows where the Tamper and Alarm wires (Yellow and blue) end up in the control box.
What I now need to do is connect Cable 1 to Cable 2 to wire in the windows.
I am guessing that this is what I should do:

Cable 1

---

Cable 2
Red

---

> Orange
Black

---

> Black
Green

---

> Yellow or Blue
White

---

> Yellow or Blue
Any advice would be hugely appreciated.

altor

The best way to identify the cable is to put the alarm in user walk test, 0#3.
Then identify the zone in the control panel for the pir, open and close the cores in the pir, looking at the keypad will tell you which zone each activation is related too. If you can take a picture of the control panel that will help, also try identify the two zones in question.

Readyhed

The Zones are:

Zone 5 : PIR this is wired correctly as I show in the drawing. Wiring.jpg. (the red and black I guess are live and Gnd)
Zone 2 is the Windows which has 4 wires which I need to connect.

altor

Going by the sensor the shock part of the sensor is not connected. Red and blue is alarm and black yellow is the tamper. Go into the user walk test to confirm the alarm activates when you open and close the cores.

Readyhed

Sorry Altor - I am a complete novice to this. Can you explain the term "close and open cores"

altor

That is no problem, the cable you think is coming from the control panel, open and close the cores to see if the alarm activates in walk test. When you have identified the alarm and tamper loop connect this to the cable going to the window. Red and blue is alarm and black yellow is the tamper in the sensor.

Readyhed

The cable coming from the control box is 6 core:
Red, Black, Blue, Green, Yellow, White.

At the base of the control unit is a series of 32 connectors - Four for each of the eight zones.

Zone 5 has used the first 2 of these - Yellow and Blue. (position 3 and 4 are empty but are "looped" with a small piece of wire.

Zone 2 (The Windows) has Green and White in positions 1 and 2. Again points 3 and 4 are looped with a piece of wire. It seems to me that these two wires must connect to 2 of the wires going to the windows. If so can you tell me which of these to connect to which color in the windows 4 core cable?

The remaining wires Black and Red are, I am sure, connected to the box in the mess of wiring elsewhere. My guess is they are a supply and return to provide power. One or both of these should , I assume also connect to the windows cable to complete the circuit or circuits.

altor

If no resistors are fitted I suspect the devices are not tampered. This just means two cores are for the windows and 4 for the PIR, two of those will be for the 12v supply.

Connect Green and White of the 6 core cable to Red and blue of the other cable located at the PIR going to the windows.

Connect Yellow and Blue of the 6 core cable to the PIR, Red and Black for the 12v supply.

Then test with the user walk test.

Hopefully that will get it going again for you.

Readyhed

Thanks Altor. I am making some progress. I don't think I explained the problem clearly enough in my original post. I am in no doubt about how to wire the PIR. It is correctly wired as follows:


Blue - "TAMP" - Neural or return for Tamper circuitry
Red - "+VIN" - Live Wire
Black - "GND" - Neutral or return for power supply to PIR
Yellow - "N.C" - Neutral or Return for Alarm circuitry

The PIR works fine in walk through test. In fact I have never disconnected it. Finally your last post instructs me to wire it thus so I have no issue here.

Since my last post I did some research in order to gain some understanding of how the windows sensor should be wired. Basically I found some posts by yourself that gave me this information. The windows sensors are SEN-W inertia sensors. There are 4 of them wired in series and there are no reed or magnetic switches. You have shown in another thread that these wire this way:

Going from left to right:

1. Contact (I read this as "live")
2. Shock
3. Tamper
4. Tamper
5. Shock
6. Contact (or "live")

This makes it a whole lot clearer to me.

I know the wiring for the PIR is right so I also know that 3 of these wires cannot go to the windows sensor. ie: the PIR Tamp (Blue), PIR GND (Black) and PIR Alarm "N.C" (Yellow).

This leave just 3 wires to connect. The Green and White are the alarm and tamper "returns" cos i can see them at the bottom of the control box in the group of connectors for zone 2 (windows). These must go to slots 3 and 5 on the Inertia sensor.

This leaves only the red wire - the Live feed which I guess I need to connect to BOTH connectors 1 and 6 on the inertia sensor.

I have enclosed a better diagram to illustrate.

Is my logic correct here or am I missing something?

Thanks again for your perserverance.

Readyhed

Nope.

This get the system closed in the sense that no errors appear in the control panel and I can set the alarm but the windows ( and now the front door) don't respond on a walk through test.

Readyhed

altor wrote: »

If no resistors are fitted I suspect the devices are not tampered. This just means two cores are for the windows and 4 for the PIR, two of those will be for the 12v supply.

Connect Green and White of the 6 core cable to Red and blue of the other cable located at the PIR going to the windows.

Connect Yellow and Blue of the 6 core cable to the PIR, Red and Black for the 12v supply.

Then test with the user walk test.

Hopefully that will get it going again for you.

Eureka - This fixes it - I had to short the 2 remaining wires going to the windows Black and Yellow. Which I assume are for the tamper mechanism.

When I first opened the unit on the window (before I messed with the wiring) I think it did sound the alarm with the system unset but I'm not sure.

Anyway Thats great You are a lifesaver Altor.

Thanks a million

altor

Good to see its all working for you now