What make stove to install

Go2Guy

Hi All
I'm changing my current stove for one with a boiler. The room is small-ish but I want to heat 12 radiators. I have found one, a Charnwood. It will heat the 12 rads fine and the room output has a range of 2kW to 6kW, so I can turn it down to minimum when the room is warm. This one has the spec I want but I'm not mad about the look of it. The price is about €1800 which is a tad steep but I've been saving for this so I don't mind paying for a good one.
Also, I've been advised to only get one where the ash tray has a separate door as you need a mighty draft to start them on days when there isn't draw on the chimney, is this true?
Thanks,
G2G

Stove Fan

Go2Guy wrote: »

Hi All
I'm changing my current stove for one with a boiler. The room is small-ish but I want to heat 12 radiators. I have found one, a Charnwood. It will heat the 12 rads fine and the room output has a range of 2kW to 6kW, so I can turn it down to minimum when the room is warm. This one has the spec I want but I'm not mad about the look of it. The price is about €1800 which is a tad steep but I've been saving for this so I don't mind paying for a good one.
Also, I've been advised to only get one where the ash tray has a separate door as you need a mighty draft to start them on days when there isn't draw on the chimney, is this true?
Thanks,
G2G

What size is your living room? Has it to fit inside the fireplace, if so what is the opening size? How many kw does your heating system need? Take no notice of manufacturers that quote the number of rads. Every rad is a different size and stove manufacturers quote for singles. If you list the sizes of your rads and whether singles or doubles, I will give you a rough boiler output needed.

What spec are you looking for? You have to be very carefull in the stove choice as if your room the stove is installed in gets to hot if you turn the stove down your rads will get too cool. There needs to be a balance between room heat and rad heat.

Stove Fan:)

Go2Guy

Thanks.
I'll get the exact details tonight and let you know. I know there will be a slight problem in that the room is not very big but there will be a lot of rads off it. I'll measure it up tonight.
G2G

GY A1

have a look at the stanley reginald, puts more heat into the boiler rather than the room, max 4kw to romm and 16 kw to boiler,

hennelly and hamco have similar output stoves which are less expensive also, but throw more heat into the room

Go2Guy

@Stove Fan
I measured everything last night so if you can give me the necessary spec that would be great, thanks. I would like a stove that outputs minimum to the room and max to the boiler. The Stanley quoted by GYA1 sounds like it's not too far from what I'm looking for. I should also mention that I have an oil fired boiler as well and they are going to compliment each other (hopefully). The oil will only be needed in very cold weather or if I need the heating on timer.

The room is 4.4mx3.6m = 15.84 sq m (174 sq ft)
The rads are as follows:
Doubles:
1.07m (3'6")
1.48m (5')
0.81m (2'8")
Singles:
1.07m (3'6")
1.7m (5'7")
1.7m (5'7")
1.7m (5'7")
0.66m (26")
0.66m (26")
1.55m (5'1")
0.74m (29")
1.55m (5'1")
1.3m (4'3")

@ GYA1.
That stanley looks great. I've been told Stanley aren't as good as their name suggests, is this true? Also I'll try get a price on that one today, I couldn't get it online, I like that stove.

Thanks to all.
G2G

Go2Guy

Ok I tried a rough guess-timate of what I need:
For the rads, 61,000 btu and for the room, 2,820 btu. Is this close?!
G2G

Stove Fan

Go2Guy wrote: »

Ok I tried a rough guess-timate of what I need:
For the rads, 61,000 btu and for the room, 2,820 btu. Is this close?!
G2G

Hi:) I have quoted for 2ft height rads and rounded them up to the closest length in metric. For the doubles I have took them as doubles but with only one convector between. (P+ rad) You may have to increase or decrease the boiler Kw depending on how modern your rads are.

This calculation is only a very rough estimate.

My calculation is you require a stove boiler output of 23Kw or 80,000btu to run the rads and hot water:).

For your room size you need about 2-3kw

The only stove I know of with that size boiler is:

Aarrow stratford TF90 4.5kw to room. (open door to dissipate heat) With 82,000btu boiler.

Please seek quidance from the stove company before deciding to purchase.

Stove Fan:)

Go2Guy

Thanks a million for the calculations, that gives me a good starting point.
I won't be getting one that powerful or that expensive! I'll have to make do with only heating the rads to a certain temperature, the oil will have to take up the slack.
The Stanley is definitely the best looking stove, but I have heard they get some parts from China and aren't as high quality as the name suggests. Has anyone else heard this?

Stove Fan

Go2Guy wrote: »

Thanks a million for the calculations, that gives me a good starting point.
I won't be getting one that powerful or that expensive! I'll have to make do with only heating the rads to a certain temperature, the oil will have to take up the slack.
The Stanley is definitely the best looking stove, but I have heard they get some parts from China and aren't as high quality as the name suggests. Has anyone else heard this?

I heard on here that Stanley is all made in China? The only total Irish company is Inis stoves.

Sounds an ok plan, especially if you fit a few thermostatic radiator valves on the rooms you want cool but not warm:)

The TF90 is £1,900 in the UK.

Stove Fan:)

paulmcn

hi all
i'm at the stage where im looking at stoves, looking for a solid fuel back boiler type, prob heating 8 or so rads and maybe a towel rail. was on tour today visiting a few outlets (looking at bathroom ware 2). had been doing some research and thought the stanley reginald was the answer. looked lovely, contemporary style and would really suit where i had in mind. looked at it in one spot and priced it, all good, called another spot on my way home and was told basically that they're not great, made in china and are not what they're cracked up to be. Now this outlet sells them amongst others but i was with someone who knew the proprieter. was shown a boru stove. (irish). more efficient and cheaper to boot. doesnt look as well tho. not available in enamel finish either. however a good point was made that if you chip the enamel with a coal scuttle or something you can never patch it right, whereas the metallic finish on the boru can be blown in, so much to think about, heart says stanley, head says boru.

paulztag

Hi Stove Fan

How did you work out what spec is needed from the rad sizes as I'm trying to do the same for my own house at the minute.

Thanks

Stove Fan

paulztag wrote: »

Hi Stove Fan

How did you work out what spec is needed from the rad sizes as I'm trying to do the same for my own house at the minute.

Thanks

I just googled any rad manufacturer eg stelrad, delonghi, quinn etc and found their list of sizes and outputs on their website. Try to find a rad of the same style. Measure each of your rads and note whether double panel rad or single rad. Say it's 600mm by 1100 and it's double look along the rad manufacturers rad size and spec table for that size and type. Ie single rad type11. Double rad with single convector Type21. Or Double rad with double convector Type 22.
Write down each BTU output or KW output and do the same for each rad. Add the outputs up and then add 3kw or 10,000btu for a standard hot water cylinder.
This is from myson rads website of their standard rads
http://www.vogelundnoot.com/en/products/select_standard.asp#tabbed-2



Stove Fan:)

paulztag

Hi Stove Fan,

Thanks very much.

paris147

Stove Fan wrote: »

Go2Guy wrote: »

Hi All
I'm changing my current stove for one with a boiler. The room is small-ish but I want to heat 12 radiators. I have found one, a Charnwood. It will heat the 12 rads fine and the room output has a range of 2kW to 6kW, so I can turn it down to minimum when the room is warm. This one has the spec I want but I'm not mad about the look of it. The price is about <IGEURO>U</IGEURO>1800 which is a tad steep but I've been saving for this so I don't mind paying for a good one.+Also,+I've+been+advised+to+only+get+one+where+the+ash+tray+has+a+separate+door+as+you+need+a+mighty+draft+to+start+them+on+days+when+there+isn't+draw+on+the+chimney,+is+this+true?
Thanks,
G2G

What+size+is+your+living+room?+Has+it+to+fit+inside+the+fireplace,+if+so+what+is+the+opening+size?+How+many+kw+does+your+heating+system+need?+Take+no+notice+of+manufacturers+that+quote+the+number+of+rads.+Every+rad+is+a+different+size+and+stove+manufacturers+quote+for+singles.+If+you+list+the+sizes+of+your+rads+and+whether+singles+or+doubles,+I+will+give+you+a+rough+boiler+output+needed.
What+spec+are+you+looking+for?+You+have+to+be+very+carefull+in+the+stove+choice+as+if+your+room+the+stove+is+installed+in+gets+to+hot+if+you+turn+the+stove+down+your+rads+will+get+too+cool.+There+needs+to+be+a

Go2Guy

Hi again
So I have the stanley reginald in and it's heating the rads quite well. Not hopping them off the wall (I'm only burning sticks and turf at the minute) but it is heating them nicely.
I am having one problem however. When I open the stove to add fuel the smoke bellows out. Does anyone know why this is? Now I have done all the reading...my chimney is clean and lined etc. I have tried it with windows and doors open. The last 2 stoves I had in never had this problem. Now I was with the guy when it was being installed so I know exactly how it was done. I have a strange feeling that it's not draft related but I'm open to correction.
If anyone can shed light on this I'd be very grateful.
Regards,
G2G

kam3qnwvebf4jh

I have the reginald installed too and I do get a lot of smoke coming out when opening door also. I find that this lessens as the fire gets up to a good glow. I am burning turf too, so might be just down to the fact that its a smokier fuel ? hope its not just related to this particular model !
On another note, very happy with the stove now after a few trials and tribulatons with the installation.

Go2Guy

I noticed last night that indeed as the fire gets hotter the smoke is less of a problem but it happened with coal too. I was looking inside the furnace...It seems a strange system because the smoke has to rise to the top of the stove, travel out to the front, then up into the cavity, backwards to the back of the stove then down to the flu outlet. Obviously if you're using the top flu outlet it's slightly different. Is this the way with most stoves? It seems that the smoke has to head for the door naturally before going out to the chimney so it's bound to escape when you open it. I guess I'll have to light it better at the start ie get more fuel in first time and every time so I don't have to open it as often.
Any inputs/additions?

Stove Fan

Go2Guy wrote: »

I noticed last night that indeed as the fire gets hotter the smoke is less of a problem but it happened with coal too. I was looking inside the furnace...It seems a strange system because the smoke has to rise to the top of the stove, travel out to the front, then up into the cavity, backwards to the back of the stove then down to the flu outlet. Obviously if you're using the top flu outlet it's slightly different. Is this the way with most stoves? It seems that the smoke has to head for the door naturally before going out to the chimney so it's bound to escape when you open it. I guess I'll have to light it better at the start ie get more fuel in first time and every time so I don't have to open it as often.
Any inputs/additions?

Hi:) Some makes do puff smoke out a bit when opening the door but it shouldnt come out massively. Try opening the stove door slowly so as to equalise the pressure inside. Is your stove rear flued? It should have no horizontal run more than 150mm. A workman who worked on my house asked me to look at his boiler stove. He said his pours out smoke on refuelling and doesnt heat the rads. I looked and the plumber he had to install it did a total bodge job.
The smoke issue was because the flue ran 20 inches horizontally into the large brick faced chimney. The pipework in 3/4, no safety valve, heat leak rad and no seperate cold feed and vent pipe. The boiler stove was teed into the heating pipes but sloping down so the back boiler was trapping air!!

Stove Fan:)

Go2Guy

Thanks to a PM from Mags, I have stopped my stove from bellowing out smoke.
It's so simple! There is a plate in the back of the stove that needed to be removed before use. Note: NOT the chimney cleaning door.
If you remove the chimney cleaning door (baffle) you will see it. I felt so stupid once I did it because it's so simple. It took about 90 seconds!
This is apparently a very common complaint from Stanley Reginald users and perhaps a note in the manual or a warning from the seller would help.
Anyway...I'm putting this up in the hope that any other poor sucker like me is still in trouble. Spread the good word (especially you Stove fan, tell everyone!)
Thanks again Mags,
Anthony

Go2Guy

Thanks to a PM from Mags, I have stopped my stove from bellowing out smoke.
It's so simple! There is a plate in the back of the stove that needed to be removed before use. Note: NOT the chimney cleaning door.
If you remove the chimney cleaning door (baffle) you will see it. I felt so stupid once I did it because it's so simple. It took about 90 seconds!
This is apparently a very common complaint from Stanley Reginald users and perhaps a note in the manual or a warning from the seller would help.
Anyway...I'm putting this up in the hope that any other poor sucker like me is still in trouble. Spread the good word (especially you Stove fan, tell everyone!)
Thanks again Mags,
Anthony

Go2Guy

And I also want to mention that the Reginald is working beautifully now in terms of heating and water. I'm in no way affiliated to this manufacturer but I strongly recommend the Reginald especially if you want most of the power going to the boiler and not the room.
PS sorry about the double post earlier.

Stove Fan

Go2Guy wrote: »

Thanks to a PM from Mags, I have stopped my stove from bellowing out smoke.
It's so simple! There is a plate in the back of the stove that needed to be removed before use. Note: NOT the chimney cleaning door.
If you remove the chimney cleaning door (baffle) you will see it. I felt so stupid once I did it because it's so simple. It took about 90 seconds!
This is apparently a very common complaint from Stanley Reginald users and perhaps a note in the manual or a warning from the seller would help.
Anyway...I'm putting this up in the hope that any other poor sucker like me is still in trouble. Spread the good word (especially you Stove fan, tell everyone!)
Thanks again Mags,
Anthony

I'm absolutely stunned that a manufacturer would have a plate in there impairing the flue outlet. It's incredible that they don't warn about removing it in the installation instructions:rolleyes:
I would email them to update their instructions with a pic of the problem:D
Anyway glad all is well and your happy with it now:D

Stove Fan:)

GY A1

Go2Guy wrote: »

Thanks to a PM from Mags, I have stopped my stove from bellowing out smoke.
It's so simple! There is a plate in the back of the stove that needed to be removed before use. Note: NOT the chimney cleaning door.
If you remove the chimney cleaning door (baffle) you will see it. I felt so stupid once I did it because it's so simple. It took about 90 seconds!
This is apparently a very common complaint from Stanley Reginald users and perhaps a note in the manual or a warning from the seller would help.
Anyway...I'm putting this up in the hope that any other poor sucker like me is still in trouble. Spread the good word (especially you Stove fan, tell everyone!)
Thanks again Mags,
Anthony

the plate your removing is the upper baffle, but surely its in there for a reason

by removing it, you must be affecting the efficiency of the stove :eek:

freddyuk

When opening the door you should ensure the damper is all the way out so the draft takes the smoke up the chimney not out the door.

paddy147

freddyuk wrote: »

When opening the door you should ensure the damper is all the way out so the draft takes the smoke up the chimney not out the door.

Found that out the hard way on the 2nd night of having the stove installed and lit.I ended up with a blackened smokey face.:(

My girlfriend thought it was hillarious,at the time.:eek::D

Dg_

Stove Fan wrote: »

I'm absolutely stunned that a manufacturer would have a plate in there impairing the flue outlet. It's incredible that they don't warn about removing it in the installation instructions:rolleyes:
I would email them to update their instructions with a pic of the problem:D
Anyway glad all is well and your happy with it now:D

Stove Fan:)

Its in the user manual that it has to be removed if using the flue exit on the rear of the stove.if using the top exit its left in place.