Two maintenance questions

thirtythirty

I've got an old '98 TDR which I've been giving some attention to after an extended period of no use since last winter.

Long story-short on the first question, my rear brake screw bleed nipple sheared off in the caliper (I doubt it had been changed since it came with the bike), so I now have half the screw still in the caliper, flush with the top. I've ordered a new one, but what's the best way to remove the part still in the hole? Someone told me to "drill it out", but how exactly does that work? Seems to me like that would just be grinding it down into the caliper no?

Also, my ignition switch is getting extremely difficult to get keys in and out of - particularly at the point of the steering lock. What's the best way to lube that up? Would colouring in my key with a pencil work to get graphite in there? Dunno whether that'd be electrically charged though, and also don't want to make a gummy mess if a small spray of WD40 would be better..

Cheers

cantdecide

I've had that barrel issue once or twice but I'm no expert. In the case of the lock, I've WD40'd them a couple of times over the course of a week, say. I work with windows and doors and we use a heavy wax like this:



It's successfully freed out stiff barrels for me but it can be a little greasy for the first week or so, so watch your nice white jeans

When you drill out screws, effectively what you're doing is using a drill bit that is narrower than the screw shaft and drilling straight down into it to hollow it out. When this is done, you can collapse the treads away from caliper and clear it out without touching the caliper. Personally, I wouldn't try it unless I had the caliper off the bike and the ability to place it in a vice for stability and clear access to the screw. Removing the caliper has it's own issues with regard to bleeding etc. The real danger is that you could end up either drilling into the caliper itself or you could drill straight through into something important.

Personally, I'd let my mechanic at it, if you're not very technical. Either that, or find a caliper from a scrappie. It can't cost too much for an older TDR.

Jackasaurus rex

For the price you'll spend on labour and parts you would probably be better off ringing the likes of city spares and seeing if they have a used caliper.

Odysseus

WD40 for the ignition, especially if you still have the small tube that come with but you balways lose. My bike are out in all weathers and generally this works a treat. Frome stopping coke use to sorting ignitions what can you not do with WD40:)

Wossack

what I've done in the past to get a sheared bolt out is-

drill a ~5 mill deep hole into the remaining material, get a torx bit (.5 mill larger diameter then your drillbit) and tap it into this hole with a hammer, and then wind it out with a ratchet

saves possible headache of losing material into the caliper (bad) via drilling it right out

thirtythirty

Cheers all, I'll go ahead with the WD definately - just didnt know if it was ok to spray in.

The sheared bolt is gonna be difficult because it sheared due to seized threads - but ill have a go with the suggestions above this weekend. If all else fails I'll just get a new caliper, but i reckon i should be able to get it out.

Thanks!

Boskowski

Best way is get one of those left oriented drill bits made especially for this. They had had a set if three in Lidl only the other week. Might still get it You drill it out going left, chances are it comes out before you actually drill through the thing. Works like a charm on my 79 bike and at that age I had a fair few seized screws and bolts to go through.