Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Damp patch on chimney

  • 01-08-2011 9:28pm
    #1
    mrxireland
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 75 ✭✭


    Im wanting to know can i apply thompsons water seal onto render that has been painted. The reason i ask this is because ive been getting a damp patch in my main bedroom upstairs every winter when it rains heavy, last year it was the worst as it run down teh wall in teh bedroom.

    The reason why its leaking is because the chimney is a solid chimney with the gable tied onto the chimney with L brackets and fired onto the block with steel nails.

    My house origanily had a hip roof in the planning permession but after the chimney was built i changed my mind and decided to put to gables on the side so i could get more room upstairs. I know the best approach at the time was to knock the chimney back down and build the gables and make a cavity around the chimney but the guys working on my house said that the chimney would be ok and wouldnt leak. I also didnt want to fork out all that extra money as the price for workers back then was mental.

    I would hate it if i had to knock half my gable and chimney down and builkd again just so i dont get this damp in the winter and TBH i dont have the money for it so im thinking of sealing the whole chimney in this water seal. Ive also to seal the top of it because there wasnt a pre cast concrete cap put on the chimeny, it was done with block and soap bars because the chimney was to big for standard chimney caps. And to make matters worse, there is no dpc under the top block thats on its flat to make the cap.


Comments

  • #2
    BryanF
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    sounds like you've already made up your mind. you seem to be aware this is a half ass'd solution and you seem to have an idea what should be done:)

    I would suggest a good site arch/arch tech take a look but it sounds like your missing the dpc tray & flashing at slate/tile level

    put on the sealant, BUT beware your probably saving up major roof work for a future rainy day...


  • #3
    mrxireland
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 75 ✭✭mrxireland


    BryanF wrote: »
    sounds like you've already made up your mind. you seem to be aware this is a half ass'd solution and you seem to have an idea what should be done:)

    I would suggest a good site arch/arch tech take a look but it sounds like your missing the dpc tray & flashing at slate/tile level

    put on the sealant, BUT beware your probably saving up major roof work for a future rainy day...


    Sorry i didnt mention in the OP but there is lead flashing where the roof meets the chimney. It was nailed on with a stop bead and plastered over and the other lead that sits on the roof, thats tucked under the lead thats attached to the chimney. I think the damp is crossing over the chimney because its a solid chimney with no cavity and the damp is crossing over into the room, im thinking this is because it starts of as a small damp patch excatly where my facia and soffit runs into the chimney


  • #4
    mrxireland
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 75 ✭✭mrxireland


    BryanF wrote: »
    sounds like you've already made up your mind. you seem to be aware this is a half ass'd solution and you seem to have an idea what should be done:)

    I would suggest a good site arch/arch tech take a look but it sounds like your missing the dpc tray & flashing at slate/tile level

    put on the sealant, BUT beware your probably saving up major roof work for a future rainy day...


    ??


  • #5
    Poor Uncle Tom
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,547 ✭✭✭✭Poor Uncle Tom


    mrxireland wrote: »
    Im wanting to know can i apply thompsons water seal onto render that has been painted. The reason i ask this is because ive been getting a damp patch in my main bedroom upstairs every winter when it rains heavy, last year it was the worst as it run down teh wall in teh bedroom.

    The reason why its leaking is because the chimney is a solid chimney with the gable tied onto the chimney with L brackets and fired onto the block with steel nails.

    I know the best approach at the time was to knock the chimney back down and build the gables and make a cavity around the chimney but the guys working on my house said that the chimney would be ok and wouldnt leak. I also didnt want to fork out all that extra money as the price for workers back then was mental.

    I would hate it if i had to knock half my gable and chimney down and builkd again just so i dont get this damp in the winter and TBH i dont have the money for it so im thinking of sealing the whole chimney in this water seal. Ive also to seal the top of it because there wasnt a pre cast concrete cap put on the chimeny, it was done with block and soap bars because the chimney was to big for standard chimney caps. And to make matters worse, there is no dpc under the top block thats on its flat to make the cap.
    It needs to be taken back and done properly.
    mrxireland wrote: »
    My house origanily had a hip roof in the planning permession but after the chimney was built i changed my mind and decided to put to gables on the side so i could get more room upstairs.
    This could be a bigger problem, if you intend to sell the house. Is the change in the roof covered by planning permission?


  • #6
    mrxireland
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 75 ✭✭mrxireland


    Poor Uncle Tom wrote: »
    It needs to be taken back and done properly.

    This could be a bigger problem, if you intend to sell the house. Is the change in the roof covered by planning permission?


    Taking it back and done properly was my worst fear! i just dont have the money for it

    As for the bigger problem, i got it all passed when i applyed for retention for changes of house through the planning .


  • Advertisement
  • #7
    Poor Uncle Tom
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,547 ✭✭✭✭Poor Uncle Tom


    mrxireland wrote: »
    Taking it back and done properly was my worst fear! i just dont have the money for it.
    Well selling a house having a leaking chimney, not properly tied to the gable with no top hat flashing or coping will probably come back to bite you. It's not a problem that will go away by painting on a sealant.
    mrxireland wrote: »
    As for the bigger problem, i got it all passed when i applyed for retention for changes of house through the planning .
    Good, at least this is out of the way.


  • #8
    mrxireland
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 75 ✭✭mrxireland


    Poor Uncle Tom wrote: »
    Well selling a house having a leaking chimney, not properly tied to the gable with no top hat flashing or coping will probably come back to bite you. It's not a problem that will go away by painting on a sealant.

    Good, at least this is out of the way.


    I could redo the top of the chimney and put the proper dpc under the new cap but would the sealent not seal it for 30yrs, How can it come back to bite me ?


  • #9
    Poor Uncle Tom
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,547 ✭✭✭✭Poor Uncle Tom


    mrxireland wrote: »
    How can it come back to bite me ?
    Well lets look at what you've already said here.
    mrxireland wrote: »
    ....ive been getting a damp patch in my main bedroom upstairs every winter when it rains heavy......it run down teh wall in teh bedroom......because the chimney is a solid chimney with the gable tied onto the chimney with L brackets and fired onto the block with steel nails.......after the chimney was built i changed my mind and decided to put to gables on the side........there wasnt a pre cast concrete cap put on the chimeny, it was done with block and soap bars...... And to make matters worse, there is no dpc under the top block thats on its flat to make the cap.
    This all equals very shoddy workmanship.

    You even state you knew what should have been done at the time.
    mrxireland wrote: »
    I know the best approach at the time was to knock the chimney back down and build the gables and make a cavity around the chimney but the guys working on my house said that the chimney would be ok and wouldnt leak.

    and to top it all off...
    mrxireland wrote: »
    ....I also didnt want to fork out all that extra money as the price for workers back then was mental.
    You cut corners to save money.

    When the leak appears for any new owner the first thing they will do is to get it checked out by a professional who will highlight the full problem and guess who they will be chasing to pay for the remedial works.


  • #10
    mrxireland
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 75 ✭✭mrxireland


    Poor Uncle Tom wrote: »
    Well lets look at what you've already said here.

    This all equals very shoddy workmanship.

    You even state you knew what should have been done at the time.


    and to top it all off...
    You cut corners to save money.

    When the leak appears for any new owner the first thing they will do is to get it checked out by a professional who will highlight the full problem and guess who they will be chasing to pay for the remedial works.


    Looks like im going to sort this then as i would hate to get a bill from the new buyers. I honestly thought that the sealent would seal the chimney.

    Would the new owners insurance not pay for it


  • #11
    Poor Uncle Tom
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,547 ✭✭✭✭Poor Uncle Tom


    mrxireland wrote: »
    Would the new owners insurance not pay for it
    Don't try to fly that flag here....:mad:

    You F**k up on a job and expect someone else to pay for it???

    I'm debating whether to ban you or not.....


  • Advertisement
  • #12
    mrxireland
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 75 ✭✭mrxireland


    Poor Uncle Tom wrote: »
    Don't try to fly that flag here....:mad:

    You F**k up on a job and expect someone else to pay for it???

    I'm debating whether to ban you or not.....


    I wouldnt dream of wanting someone else to py for it, the thought of the insurance crossed my mind for a sec but it looks like ill just have to fix it.

    Thanks for the replys anyway tom, a great help just like muffler but i may start praying to win the lotto now so i can pay to sort these problems ive just found out since coming here for advice. I may start calling in a few favours again from friends and family to try and sort this chimney. How long would it take to take a chimney down and build it again


  • #13
    rayjdav
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,097 ✭✭✭rayjdav


    mrxireland wrote: »
    I may start calling in a few favours again from friends and family to try and sort this chimney. How long would it take to take a chimney down and build it again

    Mrxireland,
    Not been smart assed here but you said in another thread that this is who exactly built your house in the first place:D.
    Once bitten.....
    Would you not get a local AT/Arch on site, determine the issue properly at hand, and get in some local GOOD builder to rectify the situation. It appears whomever did this aspect of the build initially, either friend/family, had not a clue what they were doing so you will only end up patching up a bad job even worse, which as stated above, WILL eventually, come back and bite you up the you know what???

    On the demolition of a chimney, this is a risky task if you dont have a clue what your doing so at least by having a builder on site with insurance, you take away any hassle associated with this too. Also, a site vist by an AT will be best able to estimate timescale/cost on this issue.


  • #14
    Poor Uncle Tom
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,547 ✭✭✭✭Poor Uncle Tom


    mrxireland wrote: »
    How long would it take to take a chimney down and build it again
    About 4 days all in.


  • #15
    mrxireland
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 75 ✭✭mrxireland


    rayjdav wrote: »
    Mrxireland,
    Not been smart assed here but you said in another thread that this is who exactly built your house in the first place:D.
    Once bitten.....
    Would you not get a local AT/Arch on site, determine the issue properly at hand, and get in some local GOOD builder to rectify the situation. It appears whomever did this aspect of the build initially, either friend/family, had not a clue what they were doing so you will only end up patching up a bad job even worse, which as stated above, WILL eventually, come back and bite you up the you know what???

    On the demolition of a chimney, this is a risky task if you dont have a clue what your doing so at least by having a builder on site with insurance, you take away any hassle associated with this too. Also, a site vist by an AT will be best able to estimate timescale/cost on this issue.


    I know other friends who are good block layers who will see me right. If i had of told teh 1st block layers to build the gables at the start of teh build then i wouldnt have this problem.

    Im going to pull it down and fix it properly for any sale that i may get.

    When you say AT/Arch do you mean an architect? . What about a QS who has experience in building his own projects.


  • #16
    YouWantWhat
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 261 ✭✭YouWantWhat


    I don't fully understand how you have constructed you chimney, if it was built first and then the gable added, is there not a cavity? It's not uncommon to see solid chimneys especially in this country. And if it is solid, how come you are not getting condensation on it? I've been in many attics which have solid chimneys and they are rarely damp below the roofline. It sounds to me as if the cavity is being bridged. This could be caused by mortar on the brackets that you used. This was a common problem when cavity fill insulation was first used and block layers did not keep the wall ties clean. Other things that could cause the dampness is water soaking down through the chimney, is it sealed at the top, especially around the chimney cap. It's best to cast the cap in-situ rather than use a precast one. If you want to use a water sealant, pm me and I'll give you the name of a company that supplies and delivers an industrial grade sealant, and its breathable. I've used it myself and its excellant (and cheaper than the one you are proposing).


  • #17
    mrxireland
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 75 ✭✭mrxireland


    YouWantWhat wrote: »
    I don't fully understand how you have constructed you chimney, if it was built first and then the gable added, is there not a cavity? It's not uncommon to see solid chimneys especially in this country. And if it is solid, how come you are not getting condensation on it? I've been in many attics which have solid chimneys and they are rarely damp below the roofline. It sounds to me as if the cavity is being bridged. This could be caused by mortar on the brackets that you used. This was a common problem when cavity fill insulation was first used and block layers did not keep the wall ties clean. Other things that could cause the dampness is water soaking down through the chimney, is it sealed at the top, especially around the chimney cap. It's best to cast the cap in-situ rather than use a precast one. If you want to use a water sealant, pm me and I'll give you the name of a company that supplies and delivers an industrial grade sealant, and its breathable. I've used it myself and its excellant (and cheaper than the one you are proposing).



    The chimney was built on up itself solid without the gables because it was suppose to be a hipped roof but then when i changed the style of roof the 2 gables were built and tied onto the chimney with L brackets that were fired on with steel nails. There is no cavity around the chimney, there is a cavity in the gables but not in the chimney.



    What do you mean by this --
    It's best to cast the cap in-situ rather than use a precast one


  • #18
    awnow
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 142 ✭✭awnow


    YouWantWhat wrote: »
    If you want to use a water sealant, pm me and I'll give you the name of a company that supplies and delivers an industrial grade sealant, and its breathable. I've used it myself and its excellant (and cheaper than the one you are proposing).

    Hi youwhatwant, I have sent you a PM. Could you send me on the details for this sealant.


  • #19
    mickdw
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,688 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    mrxireland wrote: »
    The chimney was built on up itself solid without the gables because it was suppose to be a hipped roof but then when i changed the style of roof the 2 gables were built and tied onto the chimney with L brackets that were fired on with steel nails. There is no cavity around the chimney, there is a cavity in the gables but not in the chimney.

    Does the outer wall of the gable clear the chimney - Is there a cavity between the outer wall and the chimney or does the chimney interfere with both walls of the gable?


Advertisement