Curved tiling meeting timber flooring....

mcflowers

Hi guys/girls,

I have an open plan kitchen, dining and sitting room, in which i would like to tile both the kitchen and the dining room and put timber flooring in the sitting room section.

I had an idea of having the tiles and timber meeting in kinda of an arc/curved shape, hard to explain but it would suit the shape of the room.

My question is,have anyone of you come across a trim/divider to join where the tile and timber floor, can't seem to find any that will bend anywhere.

Any links, pics, tips or tricks would be very welcome.

Thanks in advance.

1chippy

leave a gap between tiles and timber anywhere between six to tenmm . it means a lot of scribing. then use a good silicone to form a seal from one to other. if done properly looks pretty good

bobbuk

Hey i have a very similar situation at the moment.

how did you get on ?

which was done first, tiled and match the wood to it... or wood floor and match the tile ???

Were you happy with the finished product ?

Bob

paddy147

Marble tile meets light oak floor.

Both surfaces are dead level and smooth transisition from tile to wood.

bobbuk

thanks for the pic paddy.
mine will have a slight curve in it and im slightly worried about the joint.
i know it should be down to the individual trades to get it bang on, but im curious about which should be laid first to get the nice even flowing curved and which would be easier to match to.

paddy147

bobbuk wrote: »

thanks for the pic paddy.
mine will have a slight curve in it and im slightly worried about the joint.
i know it should be down to the individual trades to get it bang on, but im curious about which should be laid first to get the nice even flowing curved and which would be easier to match to.

Well my house was marble tiles (1 inch thick) down 1st and left for around 3 days to set fully.
Then the carpenter left the flooring and skirting boards in the house for a good 2 weeks before he actually fitted it.

Then approx a 6-7mm wide bead of silicone sealer/adhesive applied into the gap and then flattned down/smoothed over,and let to dry for a good 24 hours before anyone was allowed to walk in that area.

mcflowers

Nice job done there paddy ,but as bob says it would have been a bit more tricky to do it on and curve getting the cut on the tile spot on along with the cut on the timber keeping and even consistency around the curve which in my case was about 22 foot long.

To be honest in the end bob I wasn't happy that it was going to work so I went with a kinda of a "Z" design, not much good to you maybe, but I'm happy with the result.

paddy147

mcflowers wrote: »

Nice job done there paddy ,but as bob says it would have been a bit more tricky to do it on and curve getting the cut on the tile spot on along with the cut on the timber keeping and even consistency around the curve which in my case was about 22 foot long.

To be honest in the end bob I wasn't happy that it was going to work so I went with a kinda of a "Z" design, not much good to you maybe, but I'm happy with the result.

Any competant tiler should be well able to wet cut a tile and tiles to make a curve pattern.

Same for a carpenter,any competant chippy should be easily able to use a jig saw,lecy scroll saw or band saw to cut flooring to match the curve of the tiles.

Ive seen it done to perfection on so many building sites and completed office buildings for big corporations here in Ireland.

Ebay and Microsofts new buildings in Dublin are a work of art.:)

mcflowers

I bow to your superior knowledge.....

paddy147

mcflowers wrote: »

I bow to your superior knowledge.....

Not superior at all,and I dont claim to be either.its just common knowladge and working along side other trades people on large scale and also small scale house,building/development projects,for many years.

Best Regards.:)