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No power to alarm panel (Europlex Verifier 6)

  • 09-07-2011 12:10pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,598 ✭✭✭


    Hi All,

    I bought a 2nd hand home a while ago and noticed that there was no power leading to the alarm panel, it's one of those things that I kept meaning to get sorted and have eventually decided to do something about.

    I'm wondering if it could be something as simple as the battery and mains has been disconnected?

    Is anyone here familiar with this model? I took the cover off the box and couldn't see any wires hanging free.

    Is there anything I should be looking out for? (besides knocking the house mains off first that is lol)

    Also, I don't have a code for the alarm itself, I'm assuming that if the flow of power to the box has been disabled for so long that the bios / cmos battery is probably flat, is there a generic / factory code for this model?


Comments

  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    First thing to look for is there mains power connected inside the panel at the main power supply,


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,598 ✭✭✭aligator_am


    KoolKid wrote: »
    First thing to look for is there mains power connected inside the panel at the main power supply,

    Yeah I'll do that, that's why I was wondering if there's a factory standard code on this unit as if it has been disconnected and I rig it back up then the alarm may go off for a long time :(


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    It would not revert to factory codes just because its powered down.
    You may be able to default it though.
    I have PMed you the manual. Let me know how you get on with that.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Hi All,

    I bought a 2nd hand home a while ago and noticed that there was no power leading to the alarm panel, it's one of those things that I kept meaning to get sorted and have eventually decided to do something about.

    I'm wondering if it could be something as simple as the battery and mains has been disconnected?

    Is anyone here familiar with this model? I took the cover off the box and couldn't see any wires hanging free.

    Is there anything I should be looking out for? (besides knocking the house mains off first that is lol)

    Also, I don't have a code for the alarm itself, I'm assuming that if the flow of power to the box has been disabled for so long that the bios / cmos battery is probably flat, is there a generic / factory code for this model?

    It could of being powered down for any number of reasons but you wont know till you do get power to the control panel. You should also check all the fuses on the control panel to see if any have blown. The codes off the alarm will be needed unless you can default the system back to factory settings.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,598 ✭✭✭aligator_am


    altor wrote: »
    It could of being powered down for any number of reasons but you wont know till you do get power to the control panel. You should also check all the fuses on the control panel to see if any have blown. The codes off the alarm will be needed unless you can default the system back to factory settings.

    KoolKid was good enough to send me on the install manual and I've looked through it (it's the installer manual), I see the option to do a "cold start" which I think is a factory reset, but I can't see anywhere in it which says what the default user code is (it shows the default engineer code, but doesn't seem to indicate how to actually change the user code).

    I haven't been able to go and have a proper tinker with it as my friend is supposed to be bringing up a phase tester but no sign of him yet, I don't want to start fiddling with it and sizzle myself (does this unit have capacitors?).

    Something I noticed in the installer manual is that there's a flea light / led on the PCB which indicates mains power and this deffo wasn't lit up.

    Once I have the phase tester I'll do some more investigating.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    The default engineer is 1010. The default master code is 1020.
    Unfortunately you will need the mains on to test if there is power at the control panel. It could be the fuse has blown where the mains goes into the panel or it could be disconnected from the mains altogether.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,598 ✭✭✭aligator_am


    Top stuff, I'll check that tomorrow (not too early in case I get it working and wake up the whole road hehe), will let you know how I get on.

    Thanks
    Al


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    I would wait till tomorrow also, just in case you get it working and cant shut it off :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,598 ✭✭✭aligator_am


    Yeah that's my thinking too.

    Haha, sure I'll do it at about 8am tomorrow morning, no excuse for not going to mass now :P

    But thanks again for the help guys, I really do appreciate it :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Yeah that's my thinking too.

    Haha, sure I'll do it at about 8am tomorrow morning, no excuse for not going to mass now :P

    But thanks again for the help guys, I really do appreciate it :)

    Your welcome, hopefully we can get it sorted for you :D


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,598 ✭✭✭aligator_am


    Hi Guys,

    OK, looks like I'm almost sorted with this one, the mains leads weren't sitting properly so no juice going to the unit, I've rectified that.

    2 issues now remain, first is battery problem message, assuming it's completely flat so I'll leave it a couple of days to see if it will recharge.

    Second issue is a message saying zone tamper - p.a. discon which I'll assume is a panic alarm / panic button not working right, there's one by the front door and I can see a couple of loose wires (almost no exposed wire on them either) but I can't tell where they should be connected to.

    Anyone any idea?

    If it helps then I'll take a pic of the opened up panic button.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    The systems zones are set up for dual end of line so hopefully this diagram will help. If there is no tamper in the panic button you have, just join the white resistor leg with the black cable. These might not be the colours that are used so check in the control panel on the PA zone what colours are used. It will be the zone that has the fault.

    If the battery has being left disconnected for a long time you will be better off replacing it. Easy enough to get one on the suppliers list here.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,598 ✭✭✭aligator_am


    OK, now I'm confused, I took the panel off the 2 panic buttons that I can find (one beside the front door and one in master bedroom), front door one showed error on fire alarm / fire zone, bedroom one didn't seem to show any additional errors on panel but both set off the alarm.

    Is it possible to disconnect these from the system because as it stands the alarm won't arm / set due to the p.a. discon error.

    Could I be completely wrong assuming that p.a. is one of the panic buttons?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    OK, now I'm confused, I took the panel off the 2 panic buttons that I can find (one beside the front door and one in master bedroom), front door one showed error on fire alarm / fire zone, bedroom one didn't seem to show any additional errors on panel but both set off the alarm.

    Is it possible to disconnect these from the system because as it stands the alarm won't arm / set due to the p.a. discon error.

    Could I be completely wrong assuming that p.a. is one of the panic buttons?

    Is there any fire alarms connected to the alarm ? You could wire one of the resistors across the zone in the panel to close it off. Do you have engineer access to the alarm to check the zone types ? P.A does stand for panic alarm


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,598 ✭✭✭aligator_am


    altor wrote: »
    You could wire one of the resistors across the zone in the panel to close it off.

    Tbh I don't know how to do that :(

    I don't think any of the fire alarms are connected in to the alarm system but couldn't swear by that.

    Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.

    I can't figure out how the system is saying p.a. disconnected if both of them set off the alarm when opened.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    It is all to do with how the zone is set up, You could change the zone type of the front door to P.A and when you open it it will activate the alarm and say P.A. Thats how the zone types work.

    You will need to active the P.A again to see what zone activates. When you find the correct zone put the resistor across the terminals. 1 - C is zone 1, C - 2 is zone 2 and so on.


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