Flue Liner for Stove?

stodwyer

Hi All,
im in the process of sourcing a stove for an unused clay chimney stack that i had allocated for a stove since we built it in 2006.
I am just wondering as i have been told there by my plumber that a flue liner is not required since the flue is new and unused.
Is this correct? It would save me alot of money if it was true but i want to make sure it is installed correctly.

If so where is the best place to source flexible flue liners?

Sean

jinky no.7

hi, thinking of a stove myself , olymberyl olive stove and like you not sure if i should put a liner in flue , i've built a few chimneys for stoves and the guys that own the house didn't line the flue . haven't heard of any trouble from these chimneys yet maybe they're not in long enough time will tell , not putting liner in myself down to money , have to take a chance , some will tell u it's better to line the flue , sales man , because the flue doesn't be as warm with a stove then u get the built up of tar , its like every think , u have to go down that road to find out.

Mycroft H

Mi-Flue

Summerhill, County Meath.


Best place in the country

paddy147

landyman wrote: »

Mi-Flue

Summerhill, County Meath.


Best place in the country

+1 to the above.

Ive dealt with them and they are brilliant,they make all their own flues in their factory up there.

sinjim

stodwyer wrote: »

Hi All,
im in the process of sourcing a stove for an unused clay chimney stack that i had allocated for a stove since we built it in 2006.
I am just wondering as i have been told there by my plumber that a flue liner is not required since the flue is new and unused.
Is this correct? It would save me alot of money if it was true but i want to make sure it is installed correctly.

If so where is the best place to source flexible flue liners?

Sean

Hi everyones right mi flues are the best we use them here in Cliffords Fireplaces all the time, very helpfull effecient etc.
I wouldn't imagine you would need a flexi though, if you have never used the chimney it should be in good order, but could be best to carry out a smoke test first just to ensure no leakage.
Cheers

bootser

sinjim wrote: »

Hi everyones right mi flues are the best we use them here in Cliffords Fireplaces all the time, very helpfull effecient etc.
I wouldn't imagine you would need a flexi though, if you have never used the chimney it should be in good order, but could be best to carry out a smoke test first just to ensure no leakage.
Cheers

Hi, was looking into getting a stove myself but recently put off by possible need to reline chimney(mines about ten years old),how could i do or get done the "smoke test".Havent heard of it before! and is there any other checks i should or could do?

sinjim

bootser wrote: »

Hi, was looking into getting a stove myself but recently put off by possible need to reline chimney(mines about ten years old),how could i do or get done the "smoke test".Havent heard of it before! and is there any other checks i should or could do?

Hi if your chimney is functioning properly at the minute there should be no problems.
If you were really worried we as in cliffords fireplaces carry out smoke testing and CCTV internal of chimneys, not too sure of the cost, takes a couple of hours, 2 lads roof ladders that kind of thing. thinks its around €280 but dont quote me on that
If you were interested in a stove the smoke test would come included in the price have a look at our website www.cliffordfireplaces.com
Or if you felt you could do the smoke test yourself pm me and i'll walk you through it.
Thanks
Tom

ddouble

It's not whether the chimney flue is new or not. Eventually all chimneys will crack, leak or even catch fire. The stove has an exhaust, and that is the size the manufacturer recommends, that is used in the chimney. To large of a flue, will not create enough draft and will accumulate creosote. Creosote is the cause of most all chimney fires. It will also prevent the stove from operating efficiently.
Having too small of an exhaust will allow smoke to escape into the house every time you open the door.

sinjim

Kind of ddouble, the size of ''exhaust'' the manufactorer reccommends is to come off there appliance, for example an oisin stove requires a six inch outlet, this doesn't mean the entire chimney must be 6 inches just the lenght or lenghts of flue your bringing off the appliance, a stove requireing a 5 or 6 inch outlet would function perfectly in a standard 8 inch chimney. Creosote has very little to do with the size of the flue creosote build up is caused by the burning of timber with has a high moisture content.
Again too small a flue wont cause down draft, a cold chimney, weather conditions,a chimney thats not drawing properly, the room housing the fire opening being unvented those kind of things will cause a Downdraft.
What your actually describing would be a classic room thats being starved of air, ie no vent or draught stripping on an internal door
Thanks
Tom

ddouble

Actually the exhaust size does need to continue all the way to the top of the flue. Only running it part way does nothing for the draft, to get greater efficiency from the stove it will need to be installed the full length. While creosote accumulation is greater with unseasoned wood, all wood will create creosote. If the exhaust is allowed to lazily go up the chimney and mix with cool air, creosote is formed. By staying with the correct exhaust size the draft will be greater and less creosote is accumulated. If you were to insulate this liner, the gases will stay warmer and you will have an even better draft and even less creosote.
Sinjim is correct, the smaller flue will not cause a down draft, it just will not create a better draft and smoke does not have a place to go, so when you open the door to load the stove, some smoke will escape. Other causes for downdraft are too short of a chimney, negative pressure (running a clothes dryer) or house is built to tight (no air leaks), incorrect flue size to large, a cold or wet flue.

rpmcs

So many incorrect answers here, to my knowledge!!
best practice is to reline chimney, one is condensation running down chimney in an unlined chimney meets what ever joint is made with adaptor or what ever will spill on to stove and not a nice mess, reason is simple, in a cold clay 8" chimney the stove smoke is hot leaving a 6" flue and swirl in wider flue and starting to cool down as it rises inside 8" clay flue and this produces condensation running back down, also after a few years clay chimney may start to block at some point 3/4 way up chimney where it has built up tar at cold spot,
but it may work fine if chimney is in center of house and not as cold but as i said it still would be best practice, reline will give better draught and better efficiency, save on fuel and easier cleaned!

down draught is different to not enough up draught,
as talked about here if you have fan extractor in room/or near stove it may effect up draught as when you open door of stove it may spill into room,avent in room near stove and proper flue should easily solve that!
down draught is mainly from wind outside, trees, to low chimney, result in windy nights you get puffs of smoke in to room, harder to solve, raise chimney or in some cases cowls may work,, very hit and miss im afraid!!

sinjim

O my where to start
You've a couple incorrect there yourself rpmcs
No where in any stove manual or any stove manufactorer technical department does it say or will they recommend the continuation of flue up the entire lenght of the chimney
In saying this rpmcs is correct ''Best practice'' would be to reline a chimney.
A stove functioning properly will suffeciently warm an 8'' flue to eleminate the problem of gases mixing with cold air on leaving the 5 or 6 inch flue, and even if it didn't there is no possible way of anything spilling onto the stove if it is installed properly.
The efficency of a stove is not affected by the differing in size of flue, although quoted effeciencies by companies are achived in laboritory conditions and in reality may be far lower.
The room must be vented, doesn't have to be near the stove though .
A standard 8'' flue is no easier cleaned than a say 5'' flexi liner
Im sure i've missed some stuff but sure there you go
rpmcs bang on about the down draught
ddouble im just not really sure, your kind of all over the place and half right in some things
But sure lets keep the debate going lads

sinjim

Sorry just noticed the chimney becoming blocked 3/4 of the way up.
It doesn't matter what size flue you have, its recommened (possibly by the chimney sweep association ) that you have your chimney cleaned professionly bi annually, noticed it says cleaned not swept, this means its not joe soap down the road pushing his brush up your chimney and hoovering up after himself, firstly lets assume 9 out of 10 people have an 8'' flue, you should ensure your chimney is swept with a 10'' brush, not the 8'' brush that is commonly used.
Along with sweeping, a professinal sweep should also scrape your chimney to remove any build of of tar/creosote ensuring the chimney doesn't become blocked as was mentioned above, although i have yet to find a chimney that has become blocked by creosote

rpmcs

sorry sin jim,
But many of the stove manuals will say to reline, most common to all would be stanley and i would not say there best stoves out there,

But in any case if you dont reline how would you go about fitting flue with out flueliner correctly??
if you dont reline and use some sort of adaptor, you get an upside down joint going from spigot of stove to inside clay pot,(building regs/insurance??) would be very unusual to be able to get adapter to go around outside clay flue, in some chimney systems this is possible,Schiedel is one that springs to mind,



Of course you should have your chimney cleaned min once a year,
but in very cold chimneys that are not relined a cold pocket does cause build up of tar/soot at that point where normal brushing will not clean, and i dont think every cleaner is going to scrape away this,

So my point was, if you reline with flexi and back fill with vermiculite you will have less chance of this,

paddy147

sinjim wrote: »

O my where to start
You've a couple incorrect there yourself rpmcs
No where in any stove manual or any stove manufactorer technical department does it say or will they recommend the continuation of flue up the entire lenght of the chimney

Stovax do state it in fact.

Im looking at the A4 sized instalation book right here in front of my eyes,for my own Stovax stove.

sinjim

Hi rpmcs
Most stove manuals offer relineing as an option for fitting amongst several othe options, some do say as you said it would be best practice to reline but most times its not financially or technically viable, why should people spend and extra 400-500 to reline a chimney when its not needed, plus have you ever installed a 6 inch flexi liner down an 8 inch chimney then tried to back fill it! nightmare
Again the cold chimney thing just does not happen be it in the centre of the house gable end wall or anywhere else once the stove is operational it will heat the chimney sufficently.
there is a couple of different ways of installing without a flexi and there not unusual and have no affect on reg's insurance etc
1 Stanley now supply an adaptor of 8 to 5 inch as standard with there Cara insert for installation http://www.waterfordstanley.com/1752.htm ( Dont think stanley is the best myself but for availability of parts down the line there probably a safer bet than most), also standard 8 to 6 inch adaptors are commomly available.
2 second option, come off the top of your stove with the 5 or 6 inch rigid to just inside the first flue liner seal around with rockwool and firecement, reach up inside the rigid and also seal the top with firecement making sure to flaunch it downwards so anything that comes down the flue comes into the stove.
3 Probably the most awkward, coming off the back of your stove, firstly for anyone reading NEVER use a 90 degree straight from your stove, destroys the draw. i'll assume everyones familiar with building reg's hearth size's, distance to combustables and air movement
Build up your chimney ope to just under the point where the rigid leaves the back of the stove,cut your flue to size normally 10-14 inches again flaunch around the pipe so anything that comes down will be in the pipe, continue and completely block of your fire opening so all thats left is the rigid pipe protruding, leave to set then push your stove onto the pipe seal with fire cement, for cleaning simply remove the stove and brush and scrape as normal, As every professional cleaner should do as part of the cleaning process.and if they dont people should ask why they haven't
All the above fitting methods to the best of my knowledge have been in place for years
and fingers crossed touch wood and all that, no problems as of yet .
Interestingly many county councils are now installing stoves of one type or another and all the above methods of fitting are acceptable and in many cases where a lining is not possible they are considered standard practice

sinjim

Hi paddy
What stove is it?
How you finding it?
Good feedback on the riva's but haven't heard much about the stocktons
It probably says A flexible flue liner system certified for use with solid fuel systems and installed to manufacturer’s instructions and Building Regulations should be used
Key word in that being should, not must
But further on in the book somewhere, not sure where, it should show installation instructions where its vented into a suspended timber floor and just after will demonstrate installation with a closeure plate,

Also if your like me and arer not inclined to read the manual there technical department would walk you through installing without the flexi

rpmcs

oh sinJim,
if your going to give information please give proper advice!
not going over it all but some I can't let go unchecked!
stove company's want to sell stoves so there not going to demand you put flue liner in, cause as long as they cover themselves they feel fine, won't be there to talk to the insurance man!
,



and as I said adaptor's or shoving a pipe a few inches up the chimney is, no matter how you dress it up with bloody cheery's on top, is still an upside joint, to explain cause you seem to miss the point is starting at stove.... pipe goes into spigot, and next section of flue pipe goes in to top of that one, so if you have condensation running down pipe it will run into stove and not onto walls etc

It's there in building reg's and insurance man will tell you if you call him!
But hopefully we don't need to call him ever!
As I said its always best practise, but I have no problem fitting stoves both ways as long as Joe blogges is aware of both and let him make his own decision!

sinjim

Proper advice rpmcs? how long have you been involved in the installation or manufactoring of stoves, any advice i have given is 100% accurate. I have succesfully completed courses relating to installing stoves/fireplaces with waterford stanley, Stovax, Boru and heatas o and i have also done the waste of time F1 course on fireplace installation, as i mentioned previously i've been doing this for over 20 years and the company i work for has been doing it for almost 70 years. so i think were doing something right. If your in a better position to offer advice well go ahead but somehow i dont think you are
In relation to the building reg's any work done for most builders but especially county council or insurance work is checked and checked again, by foremen architects,clerks of work, building inspectors, innsurance assessors etc, 8 out of 10 times the work has been carried out as i have described above (maybe 2 out of 10 times we would use a flexible liner) and we have never had any problems touch wood.
But i suppose theres always going to be people who know better isn't there............

rpmcs

can you explain that one so, if flue pipe is made with male and female sections clearly made for male pointing down and into wider female section, how can you say adaptor is fine?
what i would say it may work fine in many places but just to be aware flexi is best practice,

it was only in last few months a man asked me to take out a stove a builder put in with adapter, condensation was running back down around flue adapter and splashing stove and wall, he had rain cowl, but it was only as it was lit it happened, builder had tried few different things as sealing with high temp silicone ect,
he had enough and wanted stove out,
liner down and problem solved,,,

so there is a reason why best practice is liner is needed in some cases... so best practice in my opinion,

You can have all the experience in the world and i applaud you for doing courses, if thats what your looking for!

i have plenty done myself but not looking for medals,
so to get my point as you seem not to answer direct questions is this...

if some one askes me to install a stove i tell them best practice is to reline chimney and it will leave no problems or if they are looking at the extra €300-400 being over there budget, then the adapter method in most cases works fine.

sinjim

Hi again rpmcs
I hate to lower the conversation to childish level but... it just works! always has done, once installed properly in the way i have described, thats for customer,regs insurance etc.
I haven't once denied that flexi is best practice but this idea people have that if they want a stove they must reline there chimney is wrong, was just trying to point that out.
The man who asked you about his stove, he had a builder install it, that was his first mistake Sealing a stove with high tempature silicone?? some people haven't got a clue.

As for the looking for medals comment, a bit sarcy no call for it, not looking for meadals just demonstrating that i know what im talking about.

So to sum up if i may since you didn't actually ask a question??

Yes best practice when installing a stove is to have your chimney lined

Its not an obligation or requirement its a choice a customer should make based on age/condition of there chimney and talking to there properly qualified installer, NOT builder/Plumber/Handyman

rpmcs

My question was about adaptor..
as in document j says all wider joints face upwards for condensation, how does adaptor comply facing upwards into wider flue??

sinjim

Yeah apologies see it now,


Just had a look at the regs there, is this what you mean?

Linings should be fitted with the sockets or rebates
uppermost to prevent condensation running out and
to prevent any caulking material from being adversely
affected. Joints between the liners and brickwork
should be filled with weak sand/lime mortar or
insulating concrete.

rpmcs

that would be part of it

sinjim

Thats actually in relation to the clay flue lineing
This help at all from the same regs??

2.8, Flue pipes with spigot and socket joints
should be fitted with the socket uppermost

rpmcs

yeah so is adapter not opposite to this?

sinjim

Nope thats the section in relation to clay liners,
What the flue pipe section says is
A flue pipe should only be used to connect
an appliance to a chimney and should not pass
through any roof space.
And then,
Flue pipes with spigot and socket joints
should be fitted with the socket uppermost

So adaptor and mentioned methods of fitting comply with regs

Kind of see what your saying though
, a bit ambiguous and contradictory but thats the regs for ye

sinjim

sorry didn't really explain that clearly

there 2 seperate subjects in the regs forget the clay liner
imagine the adaptor sitting on top of a rigid piece of fuel leaving the stove
the socket is pointing upward therefor complys

sligo_dave

sinjim wrote: »

O my where to start
You've a couple incorrect there yourself rpmcs
No where in any stove manual or any stove manufactorer technical department does it say or will they recommend the continuation of flue up the entire lenght of the chimney

sinjim wrote: »

Hi rpmcs
Most stove manuals offer relineing as an option for fitting amongst several othe options, some do say as you said it would be best practice to reline but most times its not financially or technically viable, why should people spend and extra 400-500 to reline a chimney when its not needed, plus have you ever installed a 6 inch flexi liner down an 8 inch chimney then tried to back fill it! nightmare

sinjim wrote: »

any advice i have given is 100% accurate.

sinjim wrote: »

Hi again rpmcs

I haven't once denied that flexi is best practice but this idea people have that if they want a stove they must reline there chimney is wrong, was just trying to point that out.


Yes best practice when installing a stove is to have your chimney lined

Its not an obligation or requirement its a choice a customer should make based on age/condition of there chimney and talking to there properly qualified installer, NOT builder/Plumber/Handyman

You seem to be quite self-contradicting here. From what i see of your posts, you seem to be simply promoting your employers services (a breach of rules here i believe).
I find it hard to believe that you can honestly say a chimney with 3 sides exposed on a gable wall will warm in the depths of winter as easily as a chimney in the centre of the house.
A cheap, or as you call it financially viable, job is not often the best job.

paddy147

sligo_dave wrote: »

You seem to be quite self-contradicting here. From what i see of your posts, you seem to be simply promoting your employers services (a breach of rules here i believe).

+1...Here here.

promoting at every oppertunity since joining the forum,even though he previously said sorry for it,but still keeps doing it.:rolleyes:

sinjim

Hi again all,
rpmcs, you seem to have dissappeared?
Sligo Dave i seem to have made the mistake of assuming people who comment on these kind of threads have some level of knowledge on the subject there talking about, has the comment about no manual stateing a continuation of flue and flexi flue has confused you?, sorry i cant do that multi quote thing but im refaring to the first 2 of my quotes you have used or are you confused by a stove manual stateing that a flexi fule should be used and not must be used? can you confirm the contradiction and i'll respond, Yes i have previously mentioned the company i work for, after paddy there so kindly pointed out it was against the rules i had a read and apologised, and haven't mentioned it since
I know im letting myself down here but paddy, whats your f**king problem???
I have been polite to you in all my posts yet your still an arsehole, why is that?
Have you responded to my query about the stovax manual regarding the different fitting options further on in the book? no you haven't
have you a problem? are you annoyed someone convinced you that you needed a flexi liner with your stove and now your desperate to prove that all that money you spent was worth it?
If you dont like what i post dont read it and dont comment on it?
Does that not make sense?

paddy147 wrote: »

+1...Here here.

promoting at every oppertunity since joining the forum,even though he previously said sorry for it,but still keeps doing it.:rolleyes:

Firstly where have i mentioned a company since i read the rules and secondly, Paddy, Grow up ffs man, are you going to tell the teacher?

paddy147

sinjim wrote: »

Hi again all,
rpmcs, you seem to have dissappeared?
Sligo Dave i seem to have made the mistake of assuming people who comment on these kind of threads have some level of knowledge on the subject there talking about, has the comment about no manual stateing a continuation of flue and flexi flue has confused you?, sorry i cant do that multi quote thing but im refaring to the first 2 of my quotes you have used or are you confused by a stove manual stateing that a flexi fule should be used and not must be used? can you confirm the contradiction and i'll respond, Yes i have previously mentioned the company i work for, after paddy there so kindly pointed out it was against the rules i had a read and apologised, and haven't mentioned it since
I know im letting myself down here but paddy, whats your f**king problem???
I have been polite to you in all my posts yet your still an arsehole, why is that?
Have you responded to my query about the stovax manual regarding the different fitting options further on in the book? no you haven't
have you a problem? are you annoyed someone convinced you that you needed a flexi liner with your stove and now your desperate to prove that all that money you spent was worth it?
If you dont like what i post dont read it and dont comment on it?
Does that not make sense?





Firstly where have i mentioned a company since i read the rules and secondly, Paddy, Grow up ffs man, are you going to tell the teacher?

Teacher????

Salesman more like.

sinjim

paddy147 wrote: »

+1...Here here.

promoting at every oppertunity since joining the forum,even though he previously said sorry for it,but still keeps doing it.:rolleyes:

paddy147 wrote: »

Teacher????

Salesman more like.

what salesman is that paddy?? whos offering anything other than free advice from someone who knows what there talking about rather than from someone like yourself who has read a bit done it once and thinks he is some kind of expert?

In fairness had a look at some of your previous posts and your stove looks very well, but you tell someone there designed with heat escapeing through the back and sides in mind??
Looks like you've a 55 or a 66??
Your supposed to insulate the wall before you install them did you read the book properly?
Have you plastered your wall in heat proff screed?
You still haven't answered the question
Does it or does it not give alternative fitting options in the manual,
Thanks

sligo_dave

sinjim wrote: »

Hi again all,
rpmcs, you seem to have dissappeared?
Sligo Dave i seem to have made the mistake of assuming people who comment on these kind of threads have some level of knowledge on the subject there talking about, has the comment about no manual stateing a continuation of flue and flexi flue has confused you?, sorry i cant do that multi quote thing but im refaring to the first 2 of my quotes you have used or are you confused by a stove manual stateing that a flexi fule should be used and not must be used? can you confirm the contradiction and i'll respond, Yes i have previously mentioned the company i work for, after paddy there so kindly pointed out it was against the rules i had a read and apologised, and haven't mentioned it since
I know im letting myself down here but paddy, whats your f**king problem???
I have been polite to you in all my posts yet your still an arsehole, why is that?
Have you responded to my query about the stovax manual regarding the different fitting options further on in the book? no you haven't
have you a problem? are you annoyed someone convinced you that you needed a flexi liner with your stove and now your desperate to prove that all that money you spent was worth it?
If you dont like what i post dont read it and dont comment on it?
Does that not make sense?





Firstly where have i mentioned a company since i read the rules and secondly, Paddy, Grow up ffs man, are you going to tell the teacher?

I hope the company you promote has a better manner and skill than you personally present. I merely pointed out what i saw as contradictory as you seem to be persistently arguing with people.

You say the full chimney liner is not needed, as this has been the way you have fitted units for 20 years. Im sure there are many other situations where a "correct" method of installations has changed in that time. Do you not think that people are better putting in the best job they can. The reason this country is in difficulty is the culture of "ah, it'll do fine. shur wont it save you a few bob mrs".

sinjim

Sorry Dave Dont mean to sound rude but i will argue and confront anyone who gives inacurate information,
I dont know what you do yourself but where i work a flue and a flexi flue liner are completly different
rpmcs said something along the lines of the flue should continue the entire lenght of a chimney and i pointed out that nowhere recommends that, they all suggest a flexi flue liner should be used but it is not a necesasity as some here have suggested.

There is absolutely nothing like ah sur it'll be grand, it will save you a few bob
A flexi flue liner is an OPTION it is not required in some cases but people seem intent on insisting if you want a stove you must have a flexi, it has nothing to do with the financial part on my end, what do i care what people pay? i get the same wage at the end of the week, and anyway a stove installed using an adaptor or flue pipe is just as good a job as with a flexi

paddy147

sinjim wrote: »

what salesman is that paddy?? whos offering anything other than free advice from someone who knows what there talking about rather than from someone like yourself who has read a bit done it once and thinks he is some kind of expert?

In fairness had a look at some of your previous posts and your stove looks very well, but you tell someone there designed with heat escapeing through the back and sides in mind??
Looks like you've a 55 or a 66??
Your supposed to insulate the wall before you install them did you read the book properly?
Have you plastered your wall in heat proff screed?
You still haven't answered the question
Does it or does it not give alternative fitting options in the manual,
Thanks

I NEVER told anyone that the stove has the heat escaping through the back or sides.So dont even accuse me of posting or stating that.
Simple answer to your question,YES.Maybe read/search through my 2563 posts here on boards and find the answers yourself,seen as you like to search peoples posts,as it has been said by me before.
Im a homeowner and not a stove fitting expert,so why would I give "expert" advice here on this particular thread????I havent as Im not a stove fitter.
Im also not a stove salesman,like you.


Regards

sinjim

Sorry again dave but do you really think the country is in trouble because of the culture of "ah, it'll do fine. shur wont it save you a few bob mrs". ??

smurnoff1486

Is it not simply the case, gas stove a stainless flexible liner is needed and for solid fuel approx 2 metres of 150mm flue fitted into existing chimney (good condition of course) is sufficient, easiest way to find out whos correct here is to check building regs, they are the law in the industry. Also care should be taken when selecting the stove, many houses now have heat recovery ventilation systems fitted, unless a room sealed stove is selected. Anyway not an expert on the topic, fitted 5-10 over the last few years and every installation has been different! Also a carbon monoxide alarm is strongly recommended for tha space to ensure the room is getting enough fresh air,

sinjim

paddy147 wrote: »

Simple answer to your question,YES.Maybe read/search through my 2563 posts here on boards and find the answers yourself,as it has been said by me before.
Im a homeowner and not a stove fitting expert,so why would I give "expert" advice here on this thread????I havent as Im not a stove fitter.

Im also not a stove salesman,like you.


Regards

Good man paddy, love the aul expert in inverted commas, classic

Why would i bother reading all your posts paddy?
You have offered advice/opinion on several thereads (ok so i've read a few)
I once hung a door, im not going looking for chippe threads to offer advice and opinion, take my point??

sinjim

smurnoff1486 wrote: »

Is it not simply the case, gas stove a stainless flexible liner is needed and for solid fuel approx 2 metres of 150mm flue fitted into existing chimney (good condition of course) is sufficient, easiest way to find out whos correct here is to check building regs, they are the law in the industry. Also care should be taken when selecting the stove, many houses now have heat recovery ventilation systems fitted, unless a room sealed stove is selected. Anyway not an expert on the topic, fitted 5-10 over the last few years and every installation has been different! Also a carbon monoxide alarm is strongly recommended for tha space to ensure the room is getting enough fresh air,

Hi smurnoff

I know nothing about gas stoves!:)
The regs in relation to solid fuel i have quoted there in my chats with rpmcs
Also think the carbon monoxide alarms should be law

sinjim

paddy147 wrote: »

I NEVER told anyone that the stove has the heat escaping through the back or sides.So dont even accuse me of posting or stating that.
Simple answer to your question,YES.Maybe read/search through my 2563 posts here on boards and find the answers yourself,seen as you like to search peoples posts,as it has been said by me before.
Im a homeowner and not a stove fitting expert,so why would I give "expert" advice here on this particular thread????I havent as Im not a stove fitter.
Im also not a stove salesman,like you.


Regards

Heres the thread paddy

http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=70675873

And heres you answer to the question about heat escapeing through the back and sides of the stove

''Nio not really,as the inset stoves are designed and built with this in mind.''

sinjim

Is this what happens when people dont like what they read

Paddy nothing about me being right about the manual? no ? Cheers

rpmcs, you seem to have dissappeared when you were shown to be mistaken about the regs

Dave sorry if you taught me rude

paddy147

sinjim wrote: »

Heres the thread paddy

http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=70675873

And heres you answer to the question about heat escapeing through the back and sides of the stove

''Nio not really,as the inset stoves are designed and built with this in mind.''

Again,I never stated or typed that they are designed with heat going out through the back or sides.Please read exactly what you posted about me a few posts ago and read what you said about me

Please read what I actually/exactly typed and not what you like to think I typed.:rolleyes:

sinjim

The man asked do you lose a lot of heat through the back/sides of the chimney with an inset stove
You told him No not really the stoves are designed/built with this in mind

Short memory do ye paddy?7

If you had read your booklet that your so fond of sitting and reading for some reason,
You would know that yes these stoves do lose heat through the back and sides and therefore the internal wall of the chimney should be inmsulated

paddy147

sinjim wrote: »

there designed with heat escapeing through the back and sides in mind

This is what you said I posted


Where did I actually type that????

sinjim

paddy147 wrote: »

This is what you said I posted


Where did I actually type that????

I apologise for mis typing but im sure you get the general idea, you jumped in offering advice on something you know little or nothing about

paddy147

sinjim wrote: »

I apologise for mis typing but im sure you get the general idea, you jumped in offering advice on something you know little or nothing about

So I never typed that.

Maybe learn to read before you jump in and accuse people of typing something they have not typed.

Thankyou.

sinjim

Maybe learn to read a manual before installing or offering advice

Your welcome

paddy147

sinjim wrote: »

Maybe learn to read a manual before installing or offering advice

Your welcome

Again you are making a false claim about me.

I never instaled my stove,please learn to read what a person actually types,before you make a comment about them or accuse them of something they have not typed.

sinjim

Ok now dont get offened paddy but here goes, i looked at 1 of your comments its mentioned there above and ok ok i'll admit it this wont be word for word, but in a round about way, you told some poor innocent chap asking for advice not to worry about an inset stove losing heat into the chimney wall as they were designed/built with this in mind.

If its that hard to admit your wrong sure dont worry about it paddy im certainly not, just dont go around offering blatantly wrong advice or attempting to undermine/contradict people who are offering sound advice

By the way please learn to spell what you typing so i can read it properly, thanks a low blow i know and will come back to haunt me because im teerible myself

Anyways thanks for the chat
And im off now so you can have the last word for this evening if you like

paddy147

sinjim wrote: »

By the way please learn to spell what you typing so i can read it properly, thanks a low blow i know and will come back to haunt me because im teerible myself

Anyways thanks for the chat
And im off now so you can have the last word for this evening if you like

I see you are now in the business of handing out advice on spelling and the english language.

You should practice what you preech with regards spelling,before trying to hand out advice and be a smart person..:rolleyes: