How sympathetic are you on your car?

Nissan doctor

Just a question/topic of conversation I thought I'd throw out.

There isn't a car on the road that will not need things replaced eventually but how much wear on various components is caused more by the drivers behavior then the parts themselves? How is it that some people always have trouble with their cars and some hardly ever? And I'm not talking about maintenance habits either,

I'm thinking along the lines of:
Starting your engine with your foot on the clutch - so the starter motor doesn't have to turn the transmission as well as the engine, reducing its load/wear.

Applying the handbrake with the button depressed instead of 'clicking' it up into place, reducing the wear on the ratchet mechanism,

Sitting at lights with your foot on the clutch, or holding the car on the clutch at lights or on hills leading to excessive clutch wear.

If you approach a pothole you can't avoid or a speed ramp a bit too fast, offloading the suspension as much as possible so as to minimise impact, i.e if you are braking approaching a speed ramp, letting off the brakes just before you go over the ramp so there is as little weight on the front suspension as possible, reducing wear/damage.

Also with regards to a cars interior, I see cars coming into the garage with broken door handles, broken air vents and switches etc, things that can often only be broken by being careless.

Now I know that the majority of motorists are not passionate or even interested in their car but that doesn't change the fact that in most cases, you will have spent thousands of your hard earned euro on it.

Thoughts?....

I wouldn't be too bad in fairness.

Nissan doctor

RoverJames wrote: »

I wouldn't be too bad in fairness.

Good, indepth answer...:D:P

Nonoperational

I always try and be as sympathetic as I can. Especially if I know there may be a weak point in the car. I tend to take it reasonably handy on mine when it's cold. Never ride the clutch. Try and take it handy taking off and generally be pretty smooth with the gears giving plenty time for the syncros to line up. Probably makes no difference but I feel like it does...

I also drive the daylights out of it every now and again. It's to clean the carbon from the valves... honestly...

Cookie_Monster

Nissan doctor wrote: »

I'm thinking along the lines of:
Starting your engine with your foot on the clutch - so the starter motor doesn't have to turn the transmission as well as the engine, reducing its load/wear.

always have clutched depressed when starting a car

Applying the handbrake with the button depressed instead of 'clicking' it up into place, reducing the wear on the ratchet mechanism,

lol, no, just reef it up

Sitting at lights with your foot on the clutch, or holding the car on the clutch at lights or on hills leading to excessive clutch wear.

generally never, maybe the rare occasion. usually sit with my clutch in and gear in first

If you approach a pothole you can't avoid or a speed ramp a bit too fast, offloading the suspension as much as possible so as to minimise impact, i.e if you are braking approaching a speed ramp, letting off the brakes just before you go over the ramp so there is as little weight on the front suspension as possible, reducing wear/damage.

yes, finish braking before stuff like that, and corners most of the time too. That would fall into "good driving" in my book though, rather than worrying about component wear

Absurdum

I'd consider myself very sympathic, particularly on brakes and tyres. When I owned an Integra Type R, I was going through 2 sets of front tyres a year, same with brake pads so maybe I'm making amends for previous sins.

peasant

I'm very much in tune with my car/van.
I can hear / feel approaching problems and I take care of them and I treat it with a lot of mechanical sympathy.

But then again, I don't cosset it either. I gets hammered down gravel tracks, over potholes, through floods, loaded to the gills and tows stuck vans up my steep drive.

After all it's a "Nutzfahrzeug" ...it was built to be used (and abused, to a degree)

dr.fuzzenstein

Well, always change the oil on time, use good oil, try to maintain constant speed on motorway, when using backroads always keep an eye out for the plentiful potholes, don't have it in gear at lights, go easy over bumps, don't rev the nuts off it, make sure tires are up to correct pressure, wash it, wax it, check everything on a regular basis, etc...
As for clutch in when starting, never done that or considered it, handbrake just gets a good hard yank.:)
Of course all that goes out the window for rentals, drive it like you rented it, which is one above drive it like you stole it...:D

Wheety

I recently bought a Ford Fiesta and in the handbook it says not to hold the button in when you pull up the handbrake.

Stainless_Steel

Absurdum wrote: »

I'd consider myself very sympathic, particularly on brakes and tyres. When I owned an Integra Type R, I was going through 2 sets of front tyres a year, same with brake pads so maybe I'm making amends for previous sins.

Wouldn't put tyres and brake pads in the same discussion as component wear because they are consumables. Costly ones albeit.

I always clutch when starting but I didnt realise it was of benefit I got into the habit of it as I always leave the car in gear when parked.

I often see people starting a car and not checking that its in gear resulting in it jumping forward, dont know why cars are not setup so that they wont start unless the clutch is pressed, thats how it is on our Fendt (tractor).

I always push the button on the handbrake its one thing that stuck in my mind from the two or three driving lessons I had, the instructor told me to always push the button.

Overall I try to look after the car, avoid hitting kerbs, potholes etc and I am gentle on the interior too.

Just a bit of advice the mechanic I use told me lately was that you should not leave your handbrake pulled overnight/for long periods if at all possible as the cables are under constant strain and will eventually give trouble.

dr.fuzzenstein

Matteo Scrawny Scaffolding wrote: »

I often see people starting a car and not checking that its in gear resulting in it jumping forward, dont know why cars are not setup so that they wont start unless the clutch is pressed, thats how it is on our Fendt (tractor).

I once had a rental car (and was actually nice to it), when I got in I put the keys in the ignition, turned it...nothing.
Tried it every which way, not a peep.
Went back inside to complain I was given a dud and was told I'd have to depress the clutch, or the car won't start .
Went back, tried it and lo and behold, it started first time.

Voodoomelon

I'm ridiculously sympathetic in every way. That is all. :P

Nissan doctor

With most of the latest generation of cars you have to press the clutch to start it.

ShadowHearth

Hmmmm. I generally newer thought of it. I domt ever have much trouble with my cars.

Skyline was grand when I got it and when I parked it off. I thought some problem with coilpacks, but looks like it is liamda. Drove it for a year with no problems.

Mx5 is alive and kicking for second year in our family. Only problem was coilpacks, changed for 250eu. Newer spent on anything more, just wear and tier.

Ford for 500eu... 3 months so far, still alive... FFs...

I allways push in clutch, but I do it from habit, newer knew it is healtyer.

I brake with gear in so I guess I don't wear brakes as much too.

Potholes... Allways drive them around. I hate and avoid going to local dunestores as the underground carpark has speed bumps every 10m! Madness!

I was allways wondering. Do I jus get lucky with trouble free cars ( atleast no major stuff ) or do I just drive them differently. I do love to have a good blast with them now and them. So they do get some higher load then usually.

ShadowHearth

dr.fuzzenstein wrote: »

I once had a rental car (and was actually nice to it), when I got in I put the keys in the ignition, turned it...nothing.
Tried it every which way, not a peep.
Went back inside to complain I was given a dud and was told I'd have to depress the clutch, or the car won't start .
Went back, tried it and lo and behold, it started first time.

Wasn't that the reason why Putin did not started Lada that time. Atleast that's what it was said im the news. So you okay m8.

Silvera

Good topic.

I try and be as 'sympathetic' with my car as possible..
(2003 Opel Astra)

5,000 mile oil and filter changes
Other servicing on time
Washed every week
Tyre pressures checked bi-weekly
Hoovered bi-weekly
Hold the boot as I lower it down / close it
(It has a spoiler which adds to the weight on the hatchback/struts... and the fibreglass spolier could eventually crack if the tailgate is just slammed down from the open position)
Ease off brakes just before speed bumps / potholes

I reckon I learned to be 'easy' on a car from my father...he never spent more than c.£/€1000 on cars over the years - and got great use out of each car by being 'easy' on them.

It really does pay in the long term to drive your car 'sympathetically'!

W.Shakes-Beer

I'd be very sympathetic to my car, so much to the extent that I feel guilt if I give it the beans (always when its fully warmed I might add).

- Start car with clutch pressed.
- Let it sit for about 20 seconds idling before moving off first thing in the morning.
- Use the handbreak when sitting in traffic.

Always avoid potholes (used to drive a car with coilovers) so it is second nature.

Yes, I look after my cars
Interior/Exterior, washed once a week and waxed about 3 times a year.

I change oil every 6 months or 5000 miles.

Voodoomelon

The whole idling thing before start is a bit of a myth I think. Every car is different, but it says in my manual to start driving immediately. The sooner the revs get up and everything starts turning over, the quicker the engine gets to operating temp.

EPM

Turn the key, wait forlights to go off, start, scan stations and put belt on, wait 20 seconds longer. Then I set off gently and don't put the boot down until warm. A minute after stopping for turbo to spool down and job done...

...bar driving like a granny on bad roads. Bit too careful at times. I really should stop thinking about the next owner!

Compton

Wheety wrote: »

I recently bought a Ford Fiesta and in the handbook it says not to hold the button in when you pull up the handbrake.

you read the handbook?!?!?! :eek:

RobertM

It's an Alfa, so it needs a lot of sympathy :pac:

shannon_tek

shblob wrote: »

you read the handbook?!?!?! :eek:

tis a good read, amazing what ya learn i usually do it outta sheer boredom. im now studying the fuses as i have to change one or 12 .

But ya i got into the habbit of holding down the clutch when starting makes the car start far quicker and more time saved. im a person of less time wasted get going now. but i will avoid every pot hole and i know every bump dent and hole on my road even in the dark with out concentrating i avoid them. ppl must think im a drunk driver but hey if it means the car stays in one piece im happy them i rev it to 80 and speed off down the road. poor car i give it so much abuse. ha ha. as for my own well only time will tell. oh i hate when people dont press the button. agghhh. Can anyone tell me why nearly most audi's have some sort of mark on them. its cruel why would you do that

Plug

I love cars and I love working on them. When the NCT was due on my car I was like 'what the fcuk' a few bushes gone:eek: I managed to do them. She passed after a while. Never again, I absolutely HATE working on my own car, I asked one of the lads in work about what he thinks(he is a master technician) and he said he wasn't a fan either of looking after his own car.
Remember, we always maintain them but hate it just because we own it. A massive difference between working on your own and others. Im not the type of lad to look at a problem on my car and leave it for ages and then fix it(kind of:p).
So to the point I love my SH!T car but she is well looked after except washes etc.
How sympathetic am I? Eh not very:p
2-3 years boards shall introduce a CSL or Focus RS to the family.:)

Esel

^ So, never buy a mechanic-owned car then?

Antikythera

A properly used gearbox, combined with giving other road users plenty of room will prolong the life of your pads and discs.

In supermarket carparks, I usually find somewhere with loads of room. It's worth the extra walk to avoid dinks on my doors.

If you have to park between cars, reverse in! It'll be safer when you pull out and you won't be performing close manoeuvres with a cold engine when leaving.

In icy weather, run the engine for a few minutes to warm the car. Scrapers leave marks on the windows.

TestTransmission

Voodoomelon wrote: »

The whole idling thing before start is a bit of a myth I think. Every car is different, but it says in my manual to start driving immediately. The sooner the revs get up and everything starts turning over, the quicker the engine gets to operating temp.

It is an absolute myth,the best way to warm up your engine is to drive it.

When it comes to my car,I treat it well,anything that needs to get fixed,gets fixed.It gets hoovered and washed weekly with a wax job maybe once a month.
I do drive the stones out of it when I have the chance though

W.Shakes-Beer

Voodoomelon wrote: »

The whole idling thing before start is a bit of a myth I think. Every car is different, but it says in my manual to start driving immediately. The sooner the revs get up and everything starts turning over, the quicker the engine gets to operating temp.

Ah I wouldn't let it idle to heat up, just let it sit for 20 seconds to let the oil come out of the sump.

slimjimmc

W.Shakes-Beer wrote: »

Ah I wouldn't let it idle to heat up, just let it sit for 20 seconds to let the oil come out of the sump.

No need to wait anywhere near that long.
If your oil is not pumping fully through the whole engine after a couple of seconds you've got bigger problems, such as a new oil pump.
I just start up, put on seat belt and go. Just don't rush like the occasional driver I see who would try to pull off before the starter motor disengaged.:eek:

markc1184

I'd be sympathetic. Everyone knows about Subaru's 'reputation', in three and a half years I've owned it the only thing that needed replacing bar the normal wear and tear stuff was the front suspension top mounts. So I must be doing something right.

Its my daily driver so regular good quality oil changes, car won't start without clutch, no slowing down using the gears etc.

W.Shakes-Beer

slimjimmc wrote: »

No need to wait anywhere near that long.
If your oil is not pumping fully through the whole engine after a couple of seconds you've got bigger problems, such as a new oil pump.
I just start up, put on seat belt and go. Just don't rush like the occasional driver I see who would try to pull off before the starter motor disengaged.:eek:

Or even worse, the people who instantly drive the bag off the car after sitting cold all night

spiggotpaddy

the only reason the manual says, drive straight off without warming up is to keep the tree huggers happy. so your not wasting fuel.the same go's for these very long oil change intervals.

the only problem with this thread is were preaching to the choir.asked the same question anywhere else and people will think your mad.

"sympathy for an inanimate object?" "are you okay"

BrianD3

I've been doing most of this for years plus other stuff like rev matching on downchanges. On my current car have gotten over 250k miles from the clutch, exhaust, cat, battery, front brake discs, 3 of the shocks etc. Also got over 150k miles from the original front brake pads and 90k and counting from the replacement set.

One tip I have for maximising clutch life is avoid parking in such a way that you're reversing uphill into/out of a tight spot. Either pick a different spot or change how you approach it (eg driving in instead of reversing)

Dr conrad murray

i think small things seem to make a difference like using the gears smoothly,
keep the foot from resting on the clutch when not needed.
push the button to pull up the handbrake

dr.fuzzenstein

spiggotpaddy wrote: »

the only reason the manual says, drive straight off without warming up is to keep the tree huggers happy. so your not wasting fuel.the same go's for these very long oil change intervals.

the only problem with this thread is were preaching to the choir.asked the same question anywhere else and people will think your mad.

"sympathy for an inanimate object?" "are you okay"

Dunno, the "drive off straight away" thing has been around since forever, even before treehuggers where invented.
The idea seems to be that having the engine idling for prolonged periods of time while stationary isn't good for it.
So I get in the car in the morning, start it and I'm on my way.
Even in the depths of winter.
Also, not much of a winter here.
How are people worried that their cars will not function at -4?
Cars are tested by the manufacturers between +50 and -40, so the few lousy degrees it ever dips below zero here in Ireland, your car isn't even going to notice.
Having said that, getting into your car at -5, redlining the engine and pulling off with massive wheelspin isn't going to do it any good;).

As for sympathy for mechanical objects:
Once had an automatic Merc, the GF (I KNOW how to drive, don't you be telling ME!), who normally uses the clutch as a footrest (GOD the arguments we had!) would find no clutch to rest her foot on.
So she would rest her foot on the BRAKE!:eek:
I followed her once, brakelights where on THE WHOLE TIME!
She was hence never allowed to drive my lovely auto Merc again and I hate giving her any of my cars.
Example:
I get 52 mpg out of my diesel CMax.
She gets 42.
Nuff said!

dr.fuzzenstein

If you are sympathetic to your car, this will hurt to watch:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KlSsbqjt9Ps

ianobrien

I'd like to think I respect my cars but then again, I have hammered the Sh1t out of it at times. Generally I do the following:

1. Start the car with the clutch depressed.
2. Don't take the car over 3k rpm for the first five minutes
3. Progressivly push the choke in after a minute or so. If needs be, I'll heel and toe to work the throttle and brakes to stop it cutting out when cold with no choke used (personal preference)
4. Lightly accelerate over potholes to unload the front suspension.
5. Never hold the car on the clutch.
6. "Read" the road to avoid unnecessary braking. If I get less than 80k out of a set of front pads, I would be disappointed.
7. I immediately investigate a new or strange noise or rattle. Most of the time it's change in the glovebox or something silly.
8. When I'm washing the car, I'll wash under the car, suspension units and under the wheel arches.


On the other hand, I've used the car for Reteo Rallies, it gets well hammered down tracks and has been used for setting up stage rallies. It gets a bit of wide open throttle driving and I get less than 15k out of front tyres. That being said, the car passed the NCT with zero imbalance in the suspension and brakes. Braking efficiency was 95% and there was zero sideslip from the suspension.

dr.fuzzenstein

ianobrien wrote: »

I
3. Progressivly push the choke in after a minute or so. If needs be, I'll heel and toe to work the throttle and brakes to stop it cutting out when cold with no choke used (personal preference)

:DWhat is this "choke" you speak of?;)

Stainless_Steel

Don't get why some of you try maximise brake pad life. Are yee buying expensive pads?

Donne

I just got a Honda Accord EX the other day. I've driven manuals all my life and have used most of the techniques you guys have reccommended.

But this is an automatic (the hardest for me was learning to keep my left foot from moving to the non existent clutch).

Any hints on the best way of driving an auto, especially with respect to fuel economy .

dr.fuzzenstein

Donne wrote: »

I just got a Honda Accord EX the other day. I've driven manuals all my life and have used most of the techniques you guys have reccommended.

But this is an automatic (the hardest for me was learning to keep my left foot from moving to the non existent clutch).

Any hints on the best way of driving an auto, especially with respect to fuel economy .

Don't drive it "go-cart style", i.e. left foot on brake and right foot on accelerator.;)

ianobrien

dr.fuzzenstein wrote: »

:DWhat is this "choke" you speak of?;)

Not what you want to do to the 3 year old in the back seat! (I/I)

Mycroft H

Land Rover Defender.

Built to be abused.


That said I do tend to look after it.

I take it easy on the clutch even though its a heavy duty aftermarket model but more so for the hardy spicer joints which are notorious for going on the defender

Potholes and ramps I tend to ignore in a defender



Even then I throw caution to the wind and piss down some forest path at speed for the craic :pac:

teednab-el

I do all of the above as in the OP post. I also take it easy when closing doors and boot doors. I hate people who bang doors on cars.

Also if the car stalls which it does from time to time and my lights are on, I will always switch them off before restarting the car.

If I am turning in any particular direction, I try to turn the steering wheel when the car is in motion and not from a stationary point where possible.

In general I hate treating any motor wrongly. I don't rev mine too high either even when the engine is warm. Its doesn't feel right to me even though it is harmless when engine is warm.

RandomAccess

I keep the revs low while the engines cold, its downhill from my house most of the way to work so I usually short shift it into a high gear, by the time the uphill section arrives the engines already warmed up.

I don't ride the clutch when taking off at roundabouts though a mate of mine does and I weep for his car. He also drives it hard right after starting up, probably to compensate for the reduced power you feel from a cold engine.. I see bills in his near future :-( especially since he doesn't use the handbrake at inclined traffic lights and roundabouts.

Of course once the engines fully warm I don't hold back so theres no fear of it coking up on me.

Oh.. meant to add, if theres an unexpected bump ahead, like some of those roadwork 'ramps' I brake and release before it so the suspension uncompresses. And I usually give the steering a flick at potholes/bumps so that the wheel which goes in is unloaded, done right its safe and really lessens the blow.

DublinDilbert

Stainless_Steel wrote: »

Don't get why some of you try maximise brake pad life. Are yee buying expensive pads?

Pads themselves aren't expensive, but excessive breaking puts stress on lots more things, discs, suspension ect...

Depending on driving style, not accelerating hard when you know you'll be braking in 100mtrs makes a massive difference to pads, discs, suspension wear....

Big Nasty

I wouldn't be the worst or the best when it comes to maintenance. I tend to put things on the long finger but don't leave them ridiculously long before I get them done either.

In relation to driving style I start and go in the daily, try to avoid pot holes, try to avoid giving it socks until the temp needle is stuck in the middle - that's about it.

With older cars, even 80's stuff, they tend to need a little warming up before driving!

Voodoomelon

Theres a noticeable difference in the E38s MCMLXXV i'm sure you've noticed, between cold and warm. When cold, you can hear the gearbox and engine strain that bit more for the first minute or two. When the temp needle hits half way, its so much more fluid and alert, more responsive and spritely.

I know the needle hits the centre after about 3-4 minutes, but I read the V8s actually take up to 15mins for the oil to get to correct temperature.

Big Nasty

Voodoomelon wrote: »

Theres a noticeable difference in the E38s MCMLXXV i'm sure you've noticed, between cold and warm. When cold, you can hear the gearbox and engine strain that bit more for the first minute or two. When the temp needle hits half way, its so much more fluid and alert, more responsive and spritely.

I know the needle hits the centre after about 3-4 minutes, but I read the V8s actually take up to 15mins for the oil to get to correct temperature.

Mine can take a good 10 mins to hit the half way mark in the morning. I'll drive her on once started (have to anyhow I'm not that good at mornings) but wouldn't open her up until she's up to temp!

dr.fuzzenstein

MCMLXXV wrote: »

Mine can take a good 10 mins to hit the half way mark in the morning. I'll drive her on once started (have to anyhow I'm not that good at mornings) but wouldn't open her up until she's up to temp!

Some larger diesel engines, mostly made from half a ton of pigiron, can take quite a bit to warm up.
When driving mine (only a 1.8) from Ennis to Limerick, I would be nearly in Limerick before the airvents spew out anything more than lukewarm air.

Big Nasty

dr.fuzzenstein wrote: »

Some larger diesel engines, mostly made from half a ton of pigiron, can take quite a bit to warm up.
When driving mine (only a 1.8) from Ennis to Limerick, I would be nearly in Limerick before the airvents spew out anything more than lukewarm air.

Understandable - diesel is the fuel of the devil! : D