Well water - purification

Tazio

Hello experts....

I need to install a UV lamp and pH neutralising system on my domestic well water supply. I found the following company on the web:

http://www.water2buy.ie/uv-lights-12/aqua-smart-ultra-violet-disinfection-system-whole-house-12.html

and

http://www.water2buy.ie/ph-correction-15/aqua-smart-ph-47.html


Anyone use this company? and if so good experiences?

I've called a load of local companies (Co Cork) any they are all quoting around euro900 for the UV lamp and euro800 for the pH kit (including fitting).

But, I can get both from the 'water2buy' site for euro730! Is it a case of you get what you pay for? i.e. cheap system = crap reliability etc?

Anyone install a system like this in the Cork area and recently?

Thanks in advance,
Cathal

aah yes

Tazio wrote: »

Hello experts....

I need to install a UV lamp and pH neutralising system on my domestic well water supply. I found the following company on the web:

http://www.water2buy.ie/uv-lights-12/aqua-smart-ultra-violet-disinfection-system-whole-house-12.html

and

http://www.water2buy.ie/ph-correction-15/aqua-smart-ph-47.html


Anyone use this company? and if so good experiences?

I've called a load of local companies (Co Cork) any they are all quoting around euro900 for the UV lamp and euro800 for the pH kit (including fitting).

But, I can get both from the 'water2buy' site for euro730! Is it a case of you get what you pay for? i.e. cheap system = crap reliability etc?

Anyone install a system like this in the Cork area and recently?

Thanks in advance,
Cathal

Buying well water systems to fit DIY is usually a waste of money especially if there are questions as to the suitability of the selected products and the ground water conditions, along with the quality and warrantied back up of the products.

Take the selection and fitting of a UV system ...

All UV manufacturers recommend pre-treated water to as low a level of parametric contamination removal as possible below EU directives or down to detectable limits by laboratory equipment in order for them to work at full capacity.

Turbidity should be as low as possible 0.1 NTU to 0.5 NTU is reasonable to avoid shadowing where bacteria could pass hidden behind silt or turbidity particles through the reactor chamber avoiding full disinfection.

As iron can oxidise and form turbid particles, the iron threshold should be well under EU limits of 0.2 mg/l preferably 0.01 to 0.1 mg/l, same with manganese but 0.01 to 0.02 mg/l. Many manufacturers quote the the EU directive limits but in cases of iron and manganese it is better to half or quarter these levels in practice as iron can build up to form a slick on the quartz sleeves of the UV systems at EU limits, usually the most common type of fouling bar hardness.

Total Hardness is best kept to a minimum to avoid limescale fouling of the quartz sleeve, but depending on the unique chemistry of the water and Langelier Saturation Index, values of soft water at below 50 ppm are best aimed for and often less than 100 ppm are quoted.

Colour not to be confused with the cloudiness of turbidity or other turbid colours like oxidised iron or blackening of manganese or heavy sulphur, colour is the translucent hue of tannins or tea like organic acids namely humic and fulvic organic acids. Colour can be the main cause of UV under performance or lack of UV "transmittance" and should be kept to a minimum well under 1 mg/l using the PtCo (Platinum Cobalt) test method, or otherwise expressed in Hazen units to an equal value.

Sulphur or hydrogen sulphide at stronger levels in the 1 ppm to 3 ppm range can cause precipitates which can also slime up a UV quartz sleeve and blur the UV light from passing into the reactor chamber.


Many parameters unless pretreated can prevent a UV system from working or block light passage up to 100% within weeks or months on some wells.

It is also important to change the UV lamp every 9,000 hours or 1 calendar year at which point the effectiveness of the UV light fades off to and increasingly accelerated reduction in power.

The quality of UV system is important, but as long as the system is correctly sized for the flow and the light is powered up and within its 12 months shelf life, the quality of ballast and lamp are the two key criteria along with water pre-treatment quality.

You may buy the finest Trojan / Viqua / Sterilight system at 1,000 euros, only for it to be thrown on the garage wall with no 5 micron pre-filter after the required stages of treatment, or with concern for treatment, only for it to hang there as a white elephant for the rest of its life, or without having lamp replacements when due.

There again, the costs of proprietary UV lamps like Trojan can be such a shock to the system when explained by a reseller they are going to be 100 euros plus callout, (or a lot more), that you end up leaving the servicing till years later.

There are emerging brands of UV systems that are from firms that have NSF credentials, using extremely reliable ballasts that operate in the 100 volt to 250 volt range where the electrical components last from 10 to 20 years with no problems, also using European or US made lamps like Light Tech or Light Source possibly the best lamps on the market but at a fraction of the price of Trojan, and have common Philips style 4 end pin GPH configuration which most dealers carry and quote reasonable prices for.

Some installers may offer 5 lamps free for the first five years if you service yourself, and offer extremely well made systems supplied from 300 euros or up to 500 euros installed sometimes less with other equipment packages.

Good installers will ensure the water quality conditions are right for the UV system, and offer post UV test points to sample water for any lab inspections for peace of mind. Always worth using INAB certified or HSE labs, and test both raw water contamination for E.Coli and Coliforms along with treated water.

Hyperchlorination to flush out old pipework or suspected infection of household plumbing is another option to keep in mind where the highest levels of safety are required.


If you buy a UV system, check if it comes with at least a 5 to 10 year warranty when installed by a recommended water treatment professional or 3 to 5 years DIY for components. Often ballasts and lamps are not covered by any manufacturers because they are seen as consumables a bit like tyres and light bulbs on a car. However, price up what is calculated to be value for money and the cost of ballast and lamp replacements. The chambers should always last for decades except if they seriously freeze, but ballasts and lamps can be changed cot effectively in most systems except not as easy with some of the high profile proprietary manufacturers.



Choosing a PH correction system can be another lengthy investigation as to water conditions especially on the often acidic waters of Cork and Kerry where not all standard mini pH granular cylinders are the best choice.

Certain media mixes of calcite and magnesium are worth looking even as far as liquid pH dosing systems on very low pH values. Don't just buy a small cylinder for a couple of hundred euros and throw it on to very low pH water, it won't last any time at all.

Always size for as large as possible on acidic waters, again to avoid the shocking expense of some of the callouts for media refills. Check if systems need to be up flow or down flow, or with electronic valve heads for backwashing if iron or other contaminants are present.


One day in Ireland there will be certified regulatory bodies where water equipment installers are expected to take exams or follow a code of ethics and so on and so forth, but until then be careful and look out for the best installers who often charge the most reasonable prices, you will be getting a lot more value for money in the end with someone who knows exactly what they are doing.

Tazio

Hi GWS thank you for your in depth reply. Serious food for thought there.

Turbidity is good/clear on the supply supply. I've been quoted for an 'electronic auto backwash head' for the pH problem with a 50 micron filter.

Also, a 10Gallon per minute (45l / minute) UV lamp with a 5 micron filter for the low coliform result (25).

I've done a lot of reading over the weekend and what amazes me is companies will quote for a system at xxx euro. When you call then to ask about the system, for example, UV wattage, or flow rate or even what size plumbing is required they stall and have to go off and 'get back to me'.

I'm almost down to two companies now.. and with your reply above I have more questions for them.

Thanks again...

aah yes

For the auto back wash head always go for a US made Clack WS1 filter head and you cannot go wrong, they are the best on the market, out ranking the nearest valves by a mile, and they are reasonably priced, nearly as low as many of the poor quality chinese sounding valves, and they are from the top leading US company 68 years in business - world leaders in their game.

The pH cylinder you want should be at least a 10x35 if pH is just under 7 or 10x44 if under 6.5 pH or at least 10x54 if the pH is below 6.

You will not need a 50 micron filter, because you get a 5 micron filter with the UV, and it is pointless putting a screen filter before a Clack auto backwashing pH system, as the system automatically acts as a 50 micron screening unit.

For the 12gpm/10gpm UV system look for a Watergroup UV with 1" and 3/4" combo ports which allows you to plumb either 1" or 3/4" from the same system it does not matter which. These have one of the best ballasts on the market - a Japanese made wide voltage range ballast with less than 0.3% failure rate on the worst voltages often used in Malaysia where voltage is up and down and can play havoc with ballasts. These come with a 5 micron pre-filter housing and cartridge, bracket and spanner.

Prices for these vary from 400 euros supplied up to 800 euros installed depending on the dealer. Best UV systems I have come across by far.

There is a domestic version at 6 gpm/5gpm from 300 euros DIY to 600 installed, these work on the fastest flow tap in a household - the cold kitchen sink tap usually at a flow at full bore from 3 to 4 gpm. These are plumbed with 3/4" and 1/2" combo BSP ports.

Tazio

thanks again....

The pH is 5.08 on our well water... and yes it's eating my copper pipes...

I will look into the Clack WS1 and a Watergroup UV kit..

It's all 1" pipe from the well to the expansion tank in the garage (70m run). In the garage I've the supply then split to a few locations: (1) house supply, (2) house heating system, (3) farm drinkers and (4) garden taps. Obviously it's only the house I'm worried about so I'll re-plumb/split all my alkathene 1" for the filtration there to supply both the (1) house and (2) heating supply. I'm going to drain the heating system after the install to re-introduce nice pH neutral water to my underfloor, radiators, towel rails and copper pipes in the 'hot-press'.

Finally, or firstly, I plan to use Milton Fluid or "Chloras" to sterilise the well-shaft before installing a purification system as there was a positive bacterial aspect to this too I've been advised to run this over 3 days etc to flush the well. Also not to pump the expelled water into the septic tank but to run it over a remote soak-away.


Have to say, I though having ones own well water was a good way to avoid the upcoming water charges it now looks like it would be cheaper to pay them!

Thank you for your advice.

aah yes

Once a well is drilled and the yield from the well is established to provide plenty of water, treatment systems for wells average out at around 1,500 to 2,000. From 1,000 to 5000 euros in extreme cases (usually 10% or less of the number of wells costing more than 3,000 euros depending how bad the water is).

An expertly fitted well system (average 1,750 euros) has a ten year pay back if annual water charges are 175 euros per year, and 5 years once water bills begin to double.

Annual service costs are usually 50 to 100 euros if a UV is employed, and 50 to 100 euros for filter cartridges for an RO if 1% of the water is used for drinking to avoid bottled water charges.

If you only drink bottled water and the local mains scheme tastes bad or has regular boil water notices, then offset around 500 euros a year for bottled water costs and their disposal.

Tazio

Fair points on the costs...

My well was sunk/drilled/bored in early 2007 at a cost of euro3300 (from memory). It was a ~180 foot (~52m) bore. The price included, pump, expansion tank and around 30m of one inch alkathene ! It was used on a small generator for the building of the main house..

I'm now about to spend euro1400 to euro2000 on the purification system. It sure does add up.....