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sump threads damaged

  • 06-06-2011 6:31pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 77 ✭✭


    Hi Guys

    Was doing an oil change earlier on a mk3 golf and managed to shear off some of the outer threads of the sump when putting the plug back in so now the plug wont tighten.

    What are the options here? is it a new sump or can it be repaired and can anyone recommend someone do it?

    The car isnt really worth much so id like to keep costs to a minimum.

    thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,683 ✭✭✭✭Owen


    You could use a helicoil, or get someone to put in a threaded insert. Or just buy a secondhand sump from a scrapyard.


  • Posts: 23,339 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Epoxy putty and get a suction yoke for the next oil change if you don't fancy replacing the sump :cool:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 77 ✭✭serco


    thanks guys, is the hellicoil stuff handy enough to pick up, presume any good motor factors would have it?

    will look at the insert option too as car isnt really worth spending much money on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,401 ✭✭✭Nonoperational


    RoverJames wrote: »
    Epoxy putty and get a suction yoke for the next oil change if you don't fancy replacing the sump :cool:

    Exactly what I did on my Alfa. Their sumps are made of putty. It was just holding but nowhere enough to trust on the open road so I used some plumbers on the sump nut and then covered the whole thing with that metal putty stuff. Sucked out the oil since, no problems in around 30k miles.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,811 ✭✭✭✭Slidey


    There should be a steel sump on a MK3?

    If so, take the thing down and drill out remaining threads and weld a new nut on the inside. Better solution in the long run


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,467 ✭✭✭Lucifer


    Ive heard, but never tried, that if you get a 13mm Mercedes sump bung that it is the same thread but longer and will go into it and you should be able to tighten it. Never tried this but someone I know was told this by a VW mechanic. Might be worth a try to get you out of a hole.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,124 ✭✭✭kirving


    Could you drill it and re-thread it with a slightly larger diameter?

    Those tapping kits are cheap these days, but you might have trouble finding one large enough that isn't mad money.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,396 ✭✭✭Tefral


    Have you actually taken the sump stud back out to check? I thought I did this before but i had actually spun the threads on the nut itself.

    If your stuck you could use PTFE tape (the white tape plumbers use) until you get a helicoil to make a new thread


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15 HevyKevy


    cronin_j wrote: »
    Have you actually taken the sump stud back out to check? I thought I did this before but i had actually spun the threads on the nut itself.

    If your stuck you could use PTFE tape (the white tape plumbers use) until you get a helicoil to make a new thread

    And check the oil level very regularly till your certain it holds. I did something like this years ago and got away with it!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,801 ✭✭✭✭Kojak


    The same thing happened my mark 4 golf.

    All you need to do is get the hole re-threaded and it should be fine. For safety sake I also put the putty around the new stud and use a suction pump when changing the oil. It has never leaked 1 drop since, and that was well over 3 years ago now.


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  • Posts: 23,339 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    cronin_j wrote: »
    If your stuck you could use PTFE tape (the white tape plumbers use) until you get a helicoil to make a new thread

    There is a risk that that could harm the oil pump if a lash of it got free.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,396 ✭✭✭Tefral


    RoverJames wrote: »
    There is a risk that that could harm the oil pump if a lash of it got free.

    Very true, it could block the mesh for the oil pick up pipe. I would say use only a small bit near the top of the nut where it should seal


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 77 ✭✭serco


    thanks for all the suggestions guys.

    The car is a shed to be honest so i dont want to spend much on it. Ive ordered one of these emergency sump plugs and this should do it. i know its not an ideal solution but its cheap and should work.

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/EMERGENCY-SUMP-PLUG-REPAIR-FITS-MOST-SUMPS-BRAND-NEW-/380295433793?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item588b5fce41

    The other day i wrapped the original plug (no damage) in the ptfe tape and put it back in with a general helping of tec 7 sealant. It still continued turning but the seal now looks pretty good and i was going to fill it back up with oil last night and start it but im afraid it would work loose after a few weeks with hear etc so decided to go with the ebay plug above.

    i have access to tools to tap out new threads but the car cant be moved (no oil in it) and getting a drill to the sump would be tricky.

    I could remove the sump and re thread it but again not sure if its worth the hassle.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 66,118 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    Didn't know about those emergency sump plugs. Can these be left in place longer term without the chance of leaking?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 77 ✭✭serco


    I contacted the seller and he said they can be left in and re-used for subsequent oil changes. Id imagine you might have issues trying to take it all the way out tho, just loosen it for the oil change.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 555 ✭✭✭crosshair1


    I have seen it all now...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,811 ✭✭✭✭Slidey


    Waste of time IMO.

    The sump is not hard taken down. Only a couple of M6 bolts more than likely.

    If you are able to take down the bolts your should be able to get it fixed properly. If you do not have to pay someone to take it down for you it shouldn't cost you much


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Clean the sump thread as best you can.
    Drill and tap a 6/8mm hole through the original bolt and epoxy glue the original bolt back in. Use a copper washer under the new smaller bolt to seal it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 81,220 ✭✭✭✭biko


    As RJ said, just epoxy it and get a oil suction hose yoke thingmejig.


  • Posts: 23,339 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    Clean the sump thread as best you can.
    Drill and tap a 6/8mm hole through the original bolt and epoxy glue the original bolt back in. Use a copper washer under the new smaller bolt to seal it.

    This is a great idea. You can bring the bolt to a machine shop and they'll do it in a jiffy for you. Will just take a tad longer to drain the oil.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 431 ✭✭SilverBell


    RoverJames wrote: »
    This is a great idea. You can bring the bolt to a machine shop and they'll do it in a jiffy for you. Will just take a tad longer to drain the oil.
    I thought it one of the best ideas here too. Nice thinking.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 889 ✭✭✭doctorchopper


    Not really enough materiel on a sump to use a helicoil on it. plus to install a helicoil you'll need to drill it and tap it and as you said you can't get a drill in there. if you are going to go through the trouble of removing the sump you might as well replace it, they shouldn't be that expensive, then its done right.


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