Need Advice on Buying Zetor Tractor Please

kincaid

Hi,

Im looking at buying a 4wd tractor, it’s a 8145 with the big cab and passenger seat, its about 88/89 and brakes have been done up and tyres are about 85 percent all round,
4 cylinder engine which seems good

Good going tractor bit rusty on mudguards otherwise pretty good.

ANYONE on here familiar with these tractors and what the faults to look out for..

Thanks

Solnskaya

had one. Tough, dull, slow. 1 million filters to wash out and refit, engine from a ww2 u-boat, no great glamour but good at plugging away. Brakes are usually fecked but u say they're done on this one. Engines can run hot and the electrics are ahem, basic. But I liked mine and it was a good workhorse. The metal in them is a bit soft if I had to have a criticism and they are no ford or ferguson in the refinement stakes.

kincaid

ok thanks, its early 1988 with the big cab, suppose to be 40k box,

its in good mechanical order, whats it worth as interested in buying

dasheriff

If you are only using it around the farm they are a great workhorse in my opinion the brakes are the biggest problem but you have that covered they were and still are a very popular machine around here..Oh and they really do just under 40k..
As price goes they vary but you could be talking around 4 to 5, i wouldnt spend over 4 myself tho.

kincaid

i notice that changing gear when tractor is stationary is very easy but when driving along the road etc for example its near impossible to change gears and have to stop to do so and once stopped there is no problem at all

jimmyw

kincaid wrote: »

i notice that changing gear when tractor is stationary is very easy but when driving along the road etc for example its near impossible to change gears and have to stop to do so and once stopped there is no problem at all

There is probably no synchromesh on the gears, or maybe worn.Here is a link to the specs.

kincaid

thanks, maybe you have to stop to change the gears on these old zetors as once tractor is stopped no problem in changing the gears then

jimmyw

kincaid wrote: »

thanks, maybe you have to stop to change the gears on these old zetors as once tractor is stopped no problem in changing the gears then

Yeah but from the link I gave they appear to have synchromesh gears, meaning you shouldn't have to stop to change but maybe if some were worn you would think that not all the syncros would be worn and some would change ok.

Atilathehun

Double clutch before you shift the lever, and you will have no problem whatsoever in changing gear.:)

kincaid

ok
as jimmyw states theres probably no synchromesh on the gears of these tractors hence why you have to stop to change the gears..
tractor all right for around the yard but not good for the road ..

anyone know for sure

Atilathehun

kincaid wrote: »

ok
as jimmyw states theres probably no synchromesh on the gears of these tractors hence why you have to stop to change the gears..
tractor all right for around the yard but not good for the road ..

anyone know for sure

Double clutch before you shift the lever, and you will have no problem whatsoever in changing gear.

kincaid

ok cheers but just seems a bit annoying having to double clutch all the time ..
it wont unnecessrry wear to the tractor etc by doing this will it ?

Solnskaya

In Soviet Russia, tractor decide when you can change gear.

jimmyw

The specs say they have synchros,I dont know might it need adjustment?Whats wrong with stopping anyhow:P.Is there a dealer or someone knowledgeable about you could consult?

kincaid

id say this tractor being early 88 has probably no synchromesh so looks like double clutching is the only way to go lol!

johnpawl

kincaid wrote: »

id say this tractor being early 88 has probably no synchromesh so looks like double clutching is the only way to go lol!

I'll sell you one I'm at at the moment!:D Small bit of work left, 12045

Atilathehun

johnpawl wrote: »

I'll sell you one I'm at at the moment!:D Small bit of work left, 12045

You must know a small bit about the guts of these Zetors:p

Could you thow any light on this problem. 7745 with dry disc brakes. Did them from start to finish. New master and slave cylinders plus the usual kit for inside the brake housing including discs, seals, springs, etc.
Result great brake on one side. Poor on the other side. Problem being that oil is leaking onto the brake disk on one side only. Ripped it again, thinking seals must have been damaged, could see no damage or reason why oil bypassing the rubber seals.
Decided to install entire new kit, including new disc as the one in there was oil soaked and probably no good.
Exact same result:mad::mad: Oil getting onto the brake disc:mad::mad:

Is there a "Zetor", way around this issue? Is it one of those annoying Zetoritis, issues which require some black magic cure to get around?

Appreciate any tips on this if possible!!

9935452

You should be able to change gears on the move.
I've driven a good few different zetors and Ursus's of this era and all of them had a different feel about them and had to be driven slightly different, different revs and so on.
Sometimes a bit heavy handed but when you got used to the gearbox, you could change easily on the move

The clutch probably needs to be adjusted.
Also it is more difficult to change gears when the tractor is in 4wd. One of my friends burnt out a clutch on a '95 914 ursus drawing silage in wet ground cause he couldn't change up without stopping.

If you are looking at a 40k box 3rd and 4th gear positions are reversed .
The 40k boxes were not a success though, most gave trouble. the 30k boxes gave trouble also,
The 25kwere bullit proof. Most were run on bigger wheels and did the 30k

Peterbilt

Best of my knowledge they do have synchro, but even when new they were hard to shift down to use engine braking. 40Km/hr boxes therefore were never great idea on these, plus poor brakes and a heavy trailer behind pushing you on made them downright dodgy.
Not a tractor for the open road in my humble opinion, field and yard work okay. Wouldnt buy one with over 6000 hrs unless impressed with previous care.
My ten cents worth.:)

kincaid

thanks guys turned out to be 1987, maybe no synchromesh but got 40k box,
very very easily started, brakes including handbrake works perfect etc but hard to keep between the ditches on the road and no comfort so thinking of getting rid as on road alot and need something with bit more power.

great machine as someone said for around the yard, field use etc

9935452

For a more comfortable ride, run the tyre with lower pressure.
We used to run the back tyres at 15-18PSI and fronts at 20-25.

If you need more power get someone to turn it up at the injection pump.