White finish on kitchen cabinets

TheGrump

I've just made some frame and panel cabinet doors for my kitchen and utility room. I'm looking for advice on the best way to finish them. I want to paint them white but I want a nice smooth finish. Any recommendations for the best paint to use? Any recommendations on the finishing plan (primer - sand 180grit - coat-sand 180grit -coat- sand 300grit??). I'm looking for a good smooth finish, probably matt as I hear gloss will show every imperfection up

slowburner

TheGrump wrote: »

I've just made some frame and panel cabinet doors for my kitchen and utility room. I'm looking for advice on the best way to finish them. I want to paint them white but I want a nice smooth finish. Any recommendations for the best paint to use? Any recommendations on the finishing plan (primer - sand 180grit - coat-sand 180grit -coat- sand 300grit??). I'm looking for a good smooth finish, probably matt as I hear gloss will show every imperfection up

You plan sounds about right. You don't mention the type of timber, though. Some woods have lots of pores (oak and mahogany, for example) and will need a certain amount of filling to get a smooth finish.
Spraying usually gives a finer finish than brushing.

TheGrump

It's just pine rails with an MDF panel. just looking for advice on getting a good flat finish. Any paint you could recommend?

slowburner

Me and MDF don't get along together
You'll need MDF primer to seal it - otherwise it just drinks in the paint.

JoeB-

I'd recommend Zinsser BIN as a primer, then Colourtrend, F&B or other quality paints for the top coats. Two coats of each, two x primer, 2 x top coat. Water based topcoats are fine, although oil may be slightly more durable.

The texture of the paint on the MDF will be different to that on the pine. You should use a brush for the top coats if you can (as opposed to a 4 inch roller). The primer could be rolled on, with a small brush for getting into corners etc. Use a foam roller for the primer, and a short mohair roller for the top coats, or a brush. Doors should have the panels painted first, then the rails at top and bottom, then the stiles running vertically, brush strokes in the grain direction.

Sealing the MDF is probably not required. It's the edges really that need attention, but yours are center panels only, so the edges aren't seen. (You can use watered down wood glue to seal the edges, probably not as good as a dedicated sealer, but you probably already have the wood glue).

Incidentally Hafele sell 5 liters of PVA glue for about 25 to 30... that's a lot cheaper than 500ml for 10 to 15 Euro in your local hardware. I suppose if you don't use much then the smaller amounts are ok.

1chippy

use a moisture resistant mdf if you can. its got a denser structure and seals easier. i usually give any panelled sections two coats of spray after mdf sealer then spray the whole lot. theres no point saying how many times, because personally ive got the same results with less coats using the same materials. For filling any knot holes i use car-body filler which sands back clean. if there are a lot of pores a watery coat of polyfiller after the first coat brings it up nicely. I tend to use becker acroma most of the time and find it ok. you should be ok white. but try and buy enough paint to cover the whole lot from one can. i ve been caught out a few times and had to respray the lot

cardwizzard

Yeah you seem to be on the right track there. Sanding and filling, neat caulking are very important. Try using a tack cloth prior to the finish coat(s) as this will lift all dust. Important to keep the area dust free while glossing.

Do not use F&B in your kitchen woodwork, its a nightmare. Maybe The little Green Paint Company, they do a really nice oilbased satin/eggshell. Worth the few extra quid for a great finish.

JoeB-

What's wrong with Farrow & Ball paints for kitchens? It's very commonly used.

I have the little Greene company colour card here, they're from Manchester in the UK. (www.thelittlegreene.com). They must be cheaper than F&B, are they? Available in Stillorgan Decor.

If using car body fillers, or a two part wood filler (same thing but sold is smaller tins), then try not to overspread it too much, as it is very hard to sand... it sets rock hard. Normal fillers can also be used with good results.

slowburner

JoeBallantine wrote: »

If using car body fillers, or a two part wood filler (same thing but sold is smaller tins), then try not to overspread it too much, as it is very hard to sand... it sets rock hard. Normal fillers can also be used with good results.

Polyester two-part car body filler is a doddle to sand. Some car body fillers have glass fibres added, not only are these a nightmare to sand, but they will blunt any edge very quickly.

cardwizzard

JoeBallantine wrote: »

What's wrong with Farrow & Ball paints for kitchens? It's very commonly used.

I have the little Greene company colour card here, they're from Manchester in the UK. (www.thelittlegreene.com). They must be cheaper than F&B, are they? Available in Stillorgan Decor.

If using car body fillers, or a two part wood filler (same thing but sold is smaller tins), then try not to overspread it too much, as it is very hard to sand... it sets rock hard. Normal fillers can also be used with good results.

They are in the same price bracket as F&B. Pretty steep in fairness, leaves a quality finish. Partly because its oilbased, F&B are 100% waterbased now and mainly because its a better quality paint. I've done a few kitchens with F&B and was very unhappy with the results. Called them up and the girl on the phone told me it wasn't really recommended for kitchens.:eek::eek:. But it on the side of the tin then!!

Nothing personal against F&B I do like there emulsions and their colours. Plus they are great at marketing.

I agree on using car filler if necessary. Can be a bit88 to sand, but the longer you leave it the more play you have. Maybe fill it on a Friday sand on a Monday if you can.