98 Corolla, How to remove back bumper ?

dnme

I need to fit a tow bar to my Corolla, 1998 E11 Liftback. First thing I need to do is remove the back bumper so I was wondering if anyone else had done this and roughly how do I do it? Anything to look out for?

Many thanks

dnme

Never mind, It's sorted.

Tallon

dnme wrote: »

Never mind, It's sorted.

Care to explain how?

Was thinking about removing my tow bar!

dnme

First remove four of those AWFUL plastic self tappers, (the type that expand when you turn a central plastic screw) from the bumper at the read and at the wheel arch's.

Undo two wheel arch panels, these are small panels that mate the bumper with the wheel arch. Undo two bolts in each and if you like, undo the plastic self tapper in them (although best to leave these as they're hard to undo). Once loose, you get access to a bolt holding the the bumper, undo on both sides.

Go inside the boot, Unclip the plastic panel around the lock assembly (in the boot, not on the door). Then undo 4 bolts off nuts with yellow tips (you'll have to ply back the plastic moulding near the light assemblies to see and access two of these).

That's it, bumper off.

dnme

Actually, I've another question.

Does anyone know how/where I connect the electrical socket that comes with the towbar? Is it just a case of splicing to the rear light cables?

Buford T Justice

Yes. Use something like scotchlocks. They'd be the job it, and they're easier to use.

Diagram below

dnme

Fingers McGee wrote: »

Yes. Use something like scotchlocks. They'd be the job it, and they're easier to use.

Thanks Fingers, Yea those scotchlocks look good, juse checked em out on youtube, eith them or I'll get out the soldering iron (solder joints take up less room).

Swanneck towbar, fitted to my car for 50 quid. Cant be bad.

Buford T Justice

Indeed it can't. If you're soldering them then pop into an auto factors and get some heat shrink sleeving to cover the joints. Don't use electrical tape, it'll fail over time.

Owen

Scotchlocks are a bad idea. Always were. They cut into the cable brutally, and cause a weak point. If the cable flexes over time - it'll break inside as the scotchlock can allow moisture reach the inner cable and cause it to corrode. I had to repair a stereo yesterday which had been scotchlocked together. PITA.

Solder + Heat shrink is the best way every time.

dnme

PaintDoctor wrote: »

Scotchlocks are a bad idea. Always were. They cut into the cable brutally, and cause a weak point. If the cable flexes over time - it'll break inside as the scotchlock can allow moisture reach the inner cable and cause it to corrode. I had to repair a stereo yesterday which had been scotchlocked together. PITA.

Solder + Heat shrink is the best way every time.

Thanks PaintDoctor, I was going with solder. I went into motofactors yesterday and went to pick up a bit of heatshrink, a little packet of 5-6 pieces was 8 quid :eek: Jesus H Christ! I walked away.

Tell me, is there any technique for stripping a cable inline (not at an end) in order to solder another cable to it?

Owen

Yup, I do it regularly using a technique called a Bell Hanger's joint. What I normally do is get an automatic wire strippers, and use it to split the insulation at one section, then move 1cm away and do the same. I take a sharp craft knife, and cut along the section of the insulation I've just isolated and it comes right off. At that stage, I'd split the strands on the new wire in half, offer it up to the stripped section right in the middle, and wrap one lot around clockwise to the right, and one anti-clockwise to the left, then solder the lot up.

dnme

PaintDoctor wrote: »

Yup, I do it regularly using a technique called a Bell Hanger's joint. What I normally do is get an automatic wire strippers, and use it to split the insulation at one section, then move 1cm away and do the same. I take a sharp craft knife, and cut along the section of the insulation I've just isolated and it comes right off. At that stage, I'd split the strands on the new wire in half, offer it up to the stripped section right in the middle, and wrap one lot around clockwise to the right, and one anti-clockwise to the left, then solder the lot up.

One more question, how do you get the heatshrink over the joint if you have not cut the original wire?

Owen

You don't unfortunately. You've only two options, either use insulating tape, or vulcanising rubber tape. The rubber tape is expensive though. I have some in the work car, but it's only used where I have to do T joints, etc.

dnme

PaintDoctor wrote: »

You don't unfortunately. You've only two options, either use insulating tape, or vulcanising rubber tape. The rubber tape is expensive though. I have some in the work car, but it's only used where I have to do T joints, etc.

I have a roll of self amalgamating tape that I got free with a satellite kit. I might try and use a bit of it under compression or something. Thanks for all the help.