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CV joint nut?

  • 14-04-2011 8:26pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 209 ✭✭


    I've just replaced the cv joint, now I need to tighten the 32mm nut back on. How tight does it have to be? Do I need to see the threads on the shaft, I'm guessing no because the threads means I'm past the recess in the shaft which locks the nut. Another thing, the brakes suck ass, so getting someone to hold them isn't working, I'm still spinning the wheel assembly when trying to tighten the nut! So I was thinking i could put the wheel on, lower the car a bit til the tyre is holding the road and tighten the nut that way. Is any of the above a good way to get the nut back on?


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,811 ✭✭✭✭Slidey


    The brakes are poor because the vacuum has gone.

    Start the car and try again, failing that, put a screw driver into the vents of the disc and let it butt up against the caliper. If the wheels is held on with bolts instead of studs and nuts put these on to stop your shearing off the grub screw in the brake disc

    It is hard to describe how tight it should be, you should be able to tighten it enough with an 18'' knuckle bar. You won't ring the nut but over tightening the bearing will shorten its life span


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,006 ✭✭✭✭The Muppet


    Torque wrench FTW.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,811 ✭✭✭✭Slidey


    Don't think I have ever torqued a front wheel bearing.

    Somehow I doubt the OP has on or the torques to go with it!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 209 ✭✭pARTner81


    Slidey wrote: »
    The brakes are poor because the vacuum has gone.

    Start the car and try again, failing that, put a screw driver into the vents of the disc and let it butt up against the caliper. If the wheels is held on with bolts instead of studs and nuts put these on to stop your shearing off the grub screw in the brake disc

    It is hard to describe how tight it should be, you should be able to tighten it enough with an 18'' knuckle bar. You won't ring the nut but over tightening the bearing will shorten its life span

    THe brakes are poor because the rear driver side brake line was removed because it rotted to the point of leaking! There are no vents in the disc! I have had a friend hold a bar onto the bolts, but doesn't work well. Would it work dropping the car slightly with the wheel on?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 547 ✭✭✭the merchant


    Yeah drop it down and then tighten it you'll be grand. Get a good long bar and stand on it.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,006 ✭✭✭✭The Muppet


    Slidey wrote: »
    Don't think I have ever torqued a front wheel bearing.

    Somehow I doubt the OP has on or the torques to go with it!

    I'm only an amateur, I torque everything.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,811 ✭✭✭✭Slidey


    Fair enough.

    Heads/engine internals and flywheels is about all I torque, but then again, I'm a rough man working on rough yokes! :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,257 ✭✭✭deandean


    I did the CV joint on a Volvo recently. I looked up the torque for the axle nut (36mm) it was: torque to 120Nm then tighten another 60 degrees.

    You should be able to get the corresponding figures for yours. Haynes manual?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,248 ✭✭✭Plug


    Slidey wrote: »
    Fair enough.

    Heads/engine internals and flywheels is about all I torque, but then again, I'm a rough man working on rough yokes! :D
    Back 2 or 3 weeks ago snap-on came into us and he had a big massive torque wrench in the van, it was almost the height of me. It was for the CIE he said, also 2 grand:eek:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,811 ✭✭✭✭Slidey


    I have used a double barrel torque wrench on rockbreakers for a 30t machine, it went to 1800nm!


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