Candy Cab repairs

Steve X2

Bit of a question for those of you with candy cabs or anyone with knowledge of them.

How easy is it to repair chipped or marked paint around the outside of the cab without doing a complete repaint?

I've sourced an Egret 3 outside of Ireland and it seems in decent condition but the seller says it has some minor chips in the paint, which can mean not so minor chips really in my experience with getting things shipped in.

He sent me a few pics but it's hard to tell how bad it is at the moment. It looks like it has a fair few chips here and there.

In general it does seems to be in decent condition but those chips in the paint would get to me so would have to be repaired.


Couple of pics the seller sent on:





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o1s1n

You'll be hard pressed finding a candy cab without any chips, dirt or marks. As they're white and were on site they're all going to have dings.

When I was looking for one originally and was browsing candy threads, I saw that there were a lot of people respraying them and touching them up. So it's possible.

My own control panel is quite grimy around the edge. I've been meaning to take it off and give it a spray.

But that cab looks pretty nice. It has an Atomiswave control panel. Which is odd, as I've only ever seen it the other way around really (Atomiswaves with Egret 2 player panels)

Steve X2

o1s1n wrote: »

You'll be hard pressed finding a candy cab without any chips, dirt or marks. As they're white and were on site they're all going to have dings.

When I was looking for one originally and was browsing candy threads, I saw that there were a lot of people respraying them and touching them up. So it's possible.

My own control panel is quite grimy around the edge. I've been meaning to take it off and give it a spray.

But that cab looks pretty nice. It has an Atomiswave control panel. Which is odd, as I've only ever seen it the other way around really (Atomiswaves with Egret 2 player panels)

Yeah, He said he has a Egret 3 panel he can stick on for an extra 75 euro.

€699 for the cab plus €75 for the egret 3 panel and €240 delivery.

He also has a Sega Astro for €599 and a Blast City for €699, delivery is €240 on these as well.


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o1s1n

Is the Egret 3 panel a two player one? If it is I'd pounce on that if I were you!

Steve X2

o1s1n wrote: »

Is the Egret 3 panel a two player one? If it is I'd pounce on that if I were you!

Not sure if it's the 2 player one. For 75 euro I doubt it, they usually go for more than that I think. Trying to get more pics from him so will see.

I'm just looking around at the moment trying to see what's out there.


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whackball

Steve SI wrote: »

Yeah, He said he has a Egret 3 panel he can stick on for an extra 75 euro.

€699 for the cab plus €75 for the egret 3 panel and €240 delivery.

He also has a Sega Astro for €599 and a Blast City for €699, delivery is €240 on these as well.


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Hey steve si, is that price delievery from the UK.

unky chop chop

That looks like Ronnies floor.:)
Just in the process of getting an Astro of him.
here she is.....


I'm going with 2 player cp and tri-synch upgrade. I can't wait.
first Candy so i don't know what i'm at. I'll start a thread

purplec

I could make that sparkle in (fronk voice) but I just havent got the time and im still in pain.

good luck, you could buy it and get it powder coated i'd say it would cost you about 280 walking around money

ondafly

looks like Ronnie is shipping a fair few cabs over to Ireland

I wouldn't be put off by marks on the cabinet personally, I plan on putting it back to new over a period of time, thats part of the fun for me and like stated above you could get it powdercoated or sprayed, or do it yourself.

Heres an option anyway, if you don't plan on doing it yourself http://www.tallaghtpowdercoating.ie/

unky chop chop

The problem there is the name TALLAGHT.

hey ondafly did you get your candy of Ronnie yeah.
How does the whole shipping work out

Steve X2

What are the benefits of getting it powder coated?


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purplec

powder coating can warp thin metal if its not done properly, plus you have to strip the machine back to the metal.

so take many pictures

Myrddin

unky chop chop wrote: »

The problem there is the name TALLAGHT

How so?

o1s1n

EnterNow wrote: »

How so?

/popcorn.

I may check that out actually. Even just to get the CP done and see how it turns out.

unky chop chop

EnterNow wrote: »

How so?

pdbhp

unky chop chop wrote: »

Don't know how a picture of a load of pieces of garbage from the Uk has anything to do with Tallaght

unky chop chop

Bloody hell.
only having a laugh mate
A bit tetchy about were ya live.
Here is a real tallaght scum bag so

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ZEuPDUy7d8

ANNNTOOO:)

pdbhp

unky chop chop wrote: »

Bloody hell.
only having a laugh mate
A bit tetchy about were ya live.
Here is a real tallaght scum bag so

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ZEuPDUy7d8

ANNNTOOO:)

Leave him alone Antoooooooooooooooooooo will ye.
Gotta love Tallaght, we're not all like that though...... some of us are worse:pac:

Andrew76

purplec wrote: »

powder coating can warp thin metal if its not done properly, plus you have to strip the machine back to the metal.

so take many pictures

Yikes, sounds like a serious job that. Be fecked if I'd let anyone do that to my cab. :pac:

@Steve SI: My cab has some marks both sides at the top/back - same location as in the first pic you posted. Guess it's a common area for them due to how they are moved about maybe? Personally I never notice them, but let us know how you go about restoring yours if you do go down that route. I certainly wouldn't let them put me off getting one, yours looks in good nick overall, if you're unsure get some more pics from him.
Good luck with the cab if you go ahead with it.

Edit: Meant to ask, does the cab you posted have the caster wheels underneath? Not sure if they all come with the wheels + feet (looks like the feet showing in the pics). Worth asking as it'll make life easier to move it about with the wheels.
It's also great to see all the arcade cab love on the forum recently.

o1s1n

Andrew76 wrote: »

@Steve SI: My cab has some marks both sides at the top/back - same location as in the first pic you posted.

Same here, exactly the same spots. I'd say that's where the cab hits door frames when entering buildings.

There really is a lot of candy love going on here lately. It's great!

Steve X2

I don't think I'll get it powder coated.
I'll try and restore it using some other means, whichever cab I decide to get.

o1s1n

2011 thread resurrection!!

I gave my cab a good cleaning out there and was just checking out some of the dings. Normally I'd be all for leaving them as battle scars, but the cab looks so white now that they're really pissing me off!

There's one main one on the right side, this is the side which faces out from the wall.





The other side (which has been in at the wall) has two big ones which I'd completely forgotten were there!



Anyway, any ideas? Maybe bring a flake of it to a paint shop and have them match it exactly? (would require removing a bit of paint though)

It'll never be right unless you do the whole thing,
Do it

o1s1n

Oh christ no! The original paint is part of the cab and it's looks factory perfect apart from these dings. I really don't like respray jobs. Would be a crime to respray this one

Myrddin

urbanledge wrote: »

It'll never be right unless you do the whole thing,
Do it

Have to agree, touch ups etc will much more often than not stand out more than whatever it is they're covering up. Leave them or spray the whole cab. You'll never get an exact match for your colour & in particular the large dings would look worse with a different shade on them

o1s1n

Do you mean you'll never get an exact match with off shelf products or from a paint mixer?

My oul lad is a painter and decorator and has access to a computer mixer which works off paint chip scans. So he should be able to get an exact match.

The painting part would be fine, you just have to put it on in thin layers. Do it thinly enough and you shouldn't be able to see it. The mistake most people make is putting it on way too thick and then get runs.

But yeah, the part which concerns me is the paint match. Might ask him if he can get it made up as a matter of interest anyway.

Myrddin

o1s1n wrote: »

But yeah, the part which concerns me is the paint match. Might ask him if he can get it made up as a matter of interest anyway.

Given your old man has access like that, you should get a decent approximation anyway. As you said, many light coats is far better than fewer heavy ones. Start with the small dings first

o1s1n

Was interested in your input given your background in cars and that!

So have you ever seen it done well on a car body or does it always have that covered up look?

Myrddin

o1s1n wrote: »

Was interested in your input given your background in cars and that!

So have you ever seen it done well on a car body or does it always have that covered up look?

In cars its a bit different as the paint code will be stamped on the chassis, giving a repair shop a near exact paint colour to mix up. However, cars paint tends to age/sun fade ever so slightly over time, so a new mix even if an exact match, can be very hard to match up to the exact unique ageing effect of the existing panels. A good body shop though can get it spot on, its an art in itself.

The candy cab won't have a paint code, so it'll be down to the mixers eye. Bare in mind paint can dry differently too, so an exact match in a bottle, might not dry that way.

This is a non issue really for those little dings, the bigger chips though I'd be more wary of

Dale Parish

Most paint shops (around here anyway) let you bring in a flake of the paint and they're able to give you an exact colour - got this done for one of my IBM PCs which has rust on the top and needed spraying - the paint had aged slightly from light etc, still came out perfect