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What kind of tractor topper?

  • 15-02-2011 12:29am
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 10,271 ✭✭✭✭


    Bear with me here :pac:

    The ould fella has a MF tractor, 35 or 35x I think, don't ask me... I'll find out for sure tomorrow.

    We've also got land which have heavy established rushes on them, acres worth unfortunately, where hay was cut in years past. Plan is cut them, spray them, etc.

    This, obviously, being the cutting thread :D

    The primary use for the machine will be rushes. Some of the land is flatish, some uneven. There's one problem, rocks. There will be some rocks hidden in the rushes, various sizes, none soft, mostly dense blue granite?

    What I'm looking for is the best tractor attachment to cut these rushes which will also resist/suffer least damage because of them, if ye get my meaning.

    I've no experience with machinery, going on what I've read I'm thinking flail mower?

    Don't know about costs but would be looking for second hand. Advice on types of attachment and prices would be most appreciated :)


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,087 ✭✭✭vanderbadger


    johngalway wrote: »
    Bear with me here :pac:

    The ould fella has a MF tractor, 35 or 35x I think, don't ask me... I'll find out for sure tomorrow.

    We've also got land which have heavy established rushes on them, acres worth unfortunately, where hay was cut in years past. Plan is cut them, spray them, etc.

    This, obviously, being the cutting thread :D

    The primary use for the machine will be rushes. Some of the land is flatish, some uneven. There's one problem, rocks. There will be some rocks hidden in the rushes, various sizes, none soft, mostly dense blue granite?

    What I'm looking for is the best tractor attachment to cut these rushes which will also resist/suffer least damage because of them, if ye get my meaning.

    I've no experience with machinery, going on what I've read I'm thinking flail mower?

    Don't know about costs but would be looking for second hand. Advice on types of attachment and prices would be most appreciated :)

    how was the hay cut previously John, fingerbar perhaps?
    you could get a rotary mower, i think there was small version of the pz mowers which would suit your size tractor, not very common though now id say..no mower is going to like rocks though, you would get good value on plant hire now, if you hired yourself a 3 ton digger for a week you might get to clear a few of the rocks maybe which might make life easier


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,611 ✭✭✭djmc


    I would recomend u get a five foot disc mower and keep the lift arms in the tractor up a bit to keep the bed off the ground if it is a stoney field
    keep the gears down and the revs up and it will cut through them like butter
    you only need to cut the top dead part of the rush off when its growing back green spray it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,842 ✭✭✭roosterman71


    Do not put a disc mower into a field with rocks!! Just asking for trouble. A finger bar mower is your only man for this. Or one of those toppers with the spinners underneath, and keep it up.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,237 ✭✭✭Username John


    Do not put a disc mower into a field with rocks!! Just asking for trouble. A finger bar mower is your only man for this. Or one of those toppers with the spinners underneath, and keep it up.

    We have a fingerbar mower - albeit a bit sad, if the what did you break today thread was open a few months ago, it would have appeared there ;)

    And it has cut a few rushes in its time - but you would need it up high enough, if it goes into the matted bottom bit of the rush, it'll just get stuck.

    I dont know would I recommend buying one, you'd surely think a good topper would be a better investment. The fingerbar is very slow to use as well, the blade is only about 4foot long...

    Not meaning to be negative, but if you cut the rushes, and spray em. Will they not be back again in a short while, if the ground isn't drained? Maybe I am wrong here, I hope I am... Just wondering is all...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,271 ✭✭✭✭johngalway


    Not meaning to be negative, but if you cut the rushes, and spray em. Will they not be back again in a short while, if the ground isn't drained? Maybe I am wrong here, I hope I am... Just wondering is all...

    All part of the plan John ;) Drain, cut/spray or spray/cut, remove debris, spray regrowth. Eventually lime & reseed.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 160 ✭✭barryoc1


    For a tractor that size you wont have the power to drive or strength to lift anything more than a 4ft topper i reckon. Toppers are generally pretty good when it comes to rocks, but like any cuttin machine they dont particularly like em. With rushes you will need serious revs up, slow speed and good cuttin edge with a tractor that size. And i am speakin from experience.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,401 ✭✭✭reilig


    The biggest problem will always be the stones. Hit a stone with a brand new disc mower a few years back and broke 3 bearings out of the 6 on the bed where one spinner threw the stone into the next. It was the first round of the field on the first day of silage season :(

    Toppers are fine, but if you hit a stone you will at minimum break a shear bolt. You could also damage the blades or even the rotor arm.

    A finger bar mower could do the trick but there's a reason why people don't use them anymore - they're slow and cumbersome, if you hit stones you'll break blade sections or driving rods etc. Also, they don't cut very well. You have to sharpen the blade every couple of acres.

    Spraying off and respraying would be what i would recommend first. Is it very rocky land or could you pick the stones from it??


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,611 ✭✭✭djmc


    A tractor that size will only drive a disc or fingerbar mower
    A finger bar mower will break yor heart cutting rushes while a disc mower will cut through them like a hot knife through butter
    Once you keep it off the ground above the rocks you will have no problem.
    Cut and wait for regrowth before spraying
    Spraying dead rushes then cutting them is a waste of time and spray
    Plants need to be green an growing for spray to work


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,401 ✭✭✭reilig


    djmc wrote: »
    A tractor that size will only drive a disc or fingerbar mower

    My MF35 has no problem with a 6ft fleming topper. It will cut the heaviest of rushes so long as you have the blades sharp. It would have no problem operating a 4ft 6" drum mower either - they're made for 35hp tractors ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,536 ✭✭✭cjpm


    Best job of all is a crocked double chop forager. Flails in them are pretty tough and a stone won't do too much damage, usually she'll just fire them out with no damage. Normally only a 5'6" cut, however you can drive on pretty quick with them. Depth of cut is easily adjusted with the lifting ram. Most of them were designed for a 70hp machine so 35hp would def be enough for topping. Also the flywheel will add some power when you hit a heavy spot.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,401 ✭✭✭reilig


    cjpm wrote: »
    Best job of all is a crocked double chop forager. Flails in them are pretty tough and a stone won't do too much damage, usually she'll just fire them out with no damage. Normally only a 5'6" cut, however you can drive on pretty quick with them. Depth of cut is easily adjusted with the lifting ram.

    on a MF35?? :D:D:D

    johngalway might need a few bulletproof vests for his sheep if he's going to go firing stones with one of them :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,271 ✭✭✭✭johngalway


    The hay used be cut with the FB mower before alright, now long gone to the rusty graveyard in the sky. Allen mower before that I think, that or scythe :pac:

    I was thinking about the finger bar mower again today, reckon it'd cut easier if the rushes were sprayed first? The problem I see with them is they clog very easily.

    Now Reilig you have me thinking. There are some stones that could be removed, which I know are near the clogged drains. But, there are two types of other stones also, the natural rock sticking up out of the ground and a few spots where rock was dumped to make a rough roadway of sorts years ago.

    A good walk of the place finding rocks would be beneficial. Though the rushes are as bad as they're bound to be hiding a few of them from sight, that's a chance may have to be taken.

    Your episode with the disc mower sounds costly?

    I'm leaning towards the topper idea at this stage.

    Half decent second hand machines, topper and disc mower, what prices would we be talking and which models are good? All I'd need from the machine is it's ability to do the job, it don't have to do it pretty, and I don't mind it being slow going as long as progress would be steady - money is an issue but that don't mean I want to buy junk either.

    If the worst were to happen accidentally "Bang! Clang! rattle, oh shít" which would be cheaper to fix, the disc mower or the topper? Vague question that'd depend on level of damage I know, apologies for that one in advance...

    Sorry for all the questions :o


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,536 ✭✭✭cjpm


    reilig wrote: »
    on a MF35?? :D:D:D

    johngalway might need a few bulletproof vests for his sheep if he's going to go firing stones with one of them :)


    They're built like a hedgecutter on wheels!!;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    cjpm wrote: »
    Best job of all is a crocked double chop forager. Flails in them are pretty tough and a stone won't do too much damage, usually she'll just fire them out with no damage. Normally only a 5'6" cut, however you can drive on pretty quick with them. Depth of cut is easily adjusted with the lifting ram. Most of them were designed for a 70hp machine so 35hp would def be enough for topping. Also the flywheel will add some power when you hit a heavy spot.

    Before we bought the topper, I topped with a side mounted taarup single chop with the chute off. Picked it up for €200 at an auction. Our 135 managed it no probs;) Cheapest flail mower you'I get :p loves stones, rushes...whatever!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,536 ✭✭✭cjpm


    Muckit wrote: »
    Before we bought the topper, I topped with a side mounted taarup single chop with the chute off. Picked it up for €200 at an auction. Our 135 managed it no probs;) Cheapest flail mower you'I get :p loves stones, rushes...whatever!


    http://www.donedeal.ie/for-sale/machinery/1902258


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    cjpm wrote: »

    Ours was an older model than this! The gearbox frame had a straight bar instead of a top link, but ya essentially the same and a great job for topping very ruff ground. The belts will give if you hit anything


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 867 ✭✭✭locky76


    I had a very similar situation John Gaillimh.
    About 12 acres of rough ground with bits and pieces (stones, blocks, lumps of timber etc. etc.) thorugh it along with rushes and clumps of dead grass.
    I used a semi offset 6' topper alomg with my handy tractor (ford 4610, ~50hp)
    Great jobs, showed up all the stones, topped it three times last year with diminishing belts of a stone each time.
    First low the the first time i topped and up the speed bit by bit, main thing is to keep the revs up.
    I spotted numerous offset toppers on donedeal like this:
    http://www.donedeal.ie/for-sale/machinery/1850079
    PM me if you want more details


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5 david1992


    either finger bar mower, major trailed topper or flail mower (makes short work of stones) no bother to a 35/35x:)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,271 ✭✭✭✭johngalway


    johngalway wrote: »
    I'm leaning towards the topper idea at this stage.

    Half decent second hand topper, what prices would we be talking and which models are good/bad & why?

    All I'd need from the machine is it's ability to do the job, it don't have to do it pretty, and I don't mind it being slow going as long as progress would be steady - money is an issue but that don't mean I want to buy junk either.

    If the worst were to happen accidentally "Bang! Clang! rattle, oh shít" what's most likely to go and how much €€ would we be talking?

    Sorry for all the questions :o

    Quoted and edited myself above as I've leaned towards the topper idea fully.

    I would prefer a topper that is directly behind the tractor, the reason for that is the very uneven ground and many obstacles (I'll be doing other land which I haven't mentioned). Offset types would widen the whole set up and I'd be uneasy going down that road least it get dug in or catches an obstacle.

    4 or 5 foot topper would do, just need to get the job done :)

    This clip would have land similar to some of the land I'll be doing. The rest of it would be considerably more uneven/hilly.



    But, I'm still fairly ignorant on the types of topper available and configurations of them etc. Help would be appreciated :o


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,676 ✭✭✭kay 9


    This is what ya want John. We have one and it will work on a 35 x no prob. http://www.major-equipment.com/product/slashers_grass_toppers
    However, they might be a little heavy on hills and make the front light, but just be extra careful. They will cut anything, even small furs:D
    Ps. I'd take of that rear guard in heavy rushes as it will smother it.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,274 ✭✭✭Bodacious


    barryoc1 wrote: »
    For a tractor that size you wont have the power to drive or strength to lift anything more than a 4ft topper i reckon. Toppers are generally pretty good when it comes to rocks, but like any cuttin machine they dont particularly like em. With rushes you will need serious revs up, slow speed and good cuttin edge with a tractor that size. And i am speakin from experience.


    I agree totally with this man had the same MF 35x and although it was a super little machine about the place she was no match for 6ft standard topper, not enough power reversing up hills etc too heavy for lift hydraulics etc so definitely a 4ft at most ( can pick these up handy enough on donedeal)

    And with heavy rushes even for a bigger more powerful tractor - low gear, revs up and good sharp tips and rise up if particularly heavy or you'll need a box of shear bolts!! "And i am speakin from experience too"


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,611 ✭✭✭djmc


    Just came across this and thought it would suit your needs no Idea on price
    http://www.quad-x.com/ie/3_in%20_1_Tractor_Shredder


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,271 ✭✭✭✭johngalway


    Cheers DJ, I'm going to stick with the 4 foot topper idea :) Seems to be what'll work, and that's all I need for the job.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,422 ✭✭✭just do it


    johngalway wrote: »
    Cheers DJ, I'm going to stick with the 4 foot topper idea :) Seems to be what'll work, and that's all I need for the job.

    What'd you go for? A major topper?
    And have done any topping yet? I'd imagine the land is still a bit wet for it.
    I've similar land that I started this job on last year (I'd have started it the year before except it was too wet to travel!). I've a 165 and a trailed major topper. Great for the rushes and copes with stones/ rocks. As mentioned here already, low speed, high revs and sharpen the teeth regularly. The one other tip - bring plenty shear bolts!
    Just picked up the tip of taking off the rear guard. Sounds a good one as it does get blocked in the heavier spots.

    So I topped the heavily rushed places 2 or 3 times last year and threw the rocks on top of the topper as I went along. One of the advantages is I now see the falls of the land better and when ever I've money again I can see the best place to put in the drains.

    I also like the idea others mention here of the old harvester/ flail mower. It will also chop the rushes rather than leaving them as big clumps. That reminds me.... I must walk the land I did all the work on last year to see how well the rushes have rotted in;).


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 631 ✭✭✭ootbitb


    any proper rock you can't remove paint it a bright colour ..it's easier to see next time:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 828 ✭✭✭TUBBY


    fella up our way makes really strong toppers that are made for rough ground and eats stones. They works easily on a 35/135 and are 5'6" or 6'. The metal used is much better than you get in the conors etc of this world and the gearbox is a rock itself. if you throw a shear pin on it, it would last a lifetime.

    Anyway, it a great topper for rushes and heavy cover but would not be as good for topping for grazing cause as I said, it designed more for rough work.

    Local lad here that i know well selling one that is bout five year old. 500 euro would get it with a new drive shaft.

    PM me if you want to follow up.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 194 ✭✭what happen


    i bought a negent in the co-op 3 years ago great topper 9 foot straight behind tractor for 1100 brand new.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 305 ✭✭rubbledoubledo


    Hi all.
    Need help here from the more experienced.
    I rented a strip of ground for the use of model airplanes. All last year i was useing a 35 and 6 foot connor topper. The PTO went in the 35 last Sept, so for the few months after i just had to use the motion of the rear wheels to try and cut, no very good at all.

    Had to cut it last week, it was getting very strong, but the ground was very wet and soft. Bought a ford 2000, had grass wheels on the 35 so switched them on to the ford. Started to cut, the skids on the topper started to sink into the ground and take chunks of soil out, that is how wet it was. Is that topper too heavy,and it did not cut very well also.

    My question is would i be better to use a mower, say a PZ 135.
    The ford is around 35 HP, would that run the mower, or any other mower that would suit my tractor. I want to cut it as bare as i can.

    Do drums just glide over the ground. I still think the connor topper is too heavy and bulky for my tractor. Advice much appreciated. Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    roubledoubledo

    It's a second hand finishing or grounds mower you need

    MajorFinishingMower.jpg

    Very easy drove and nice finish for what you need. You might be able to pick up an old one from a local GAA,or Golf course... they'd have one for cutting the rough.


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