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Changing To Deans Connection

  • 28-01-2011 9:02pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,757 ✭✭✭


    So I've decided to change my connections on my AEG, batteries and charger.
    I am able to solder but don't have the equipment.

    So what I would like to know is if these are suitable deans: http://component-shop.co.uk/html/body_connectors.html (the red ones above micro-connectors)

    And if this soldering set would do? : http://component-shop.co.uk/html/body_tools_soldering.html

    Also the 60/40 Tin/Lead solder underneath.

    And one more thing, I assume that this battery is suitable for a normal crane stock(Classic Army) and if Sub-C just means that they are bigger(width).

    Thanks, if you have anything better just shoot open to other ideas. :D



    Edit: Whats the delivery time like for the site?
    And will this slightly improve trigger response and how do I stop the god-awful noise from my motor on semi of it winding (the normal noise is fump,fump,fump Mine is fiiithing, fiithing, fiithing)
    Sorry I don't know how to describe the noise better.


    100th Post Yay!


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,395 ✭✭✭Decoy


    Component-shop servoce is very good, I've used them a couple of times and have no complaints. Postage takes 3-5 days.

    I just bought a load of those very connectors and they are the 'standard' Deans connectors. You will need more female than male connectors, male goes on AEG, female on battery. They supply some shrink tube with the connectors but they are very short, wouldn't do any harm to buy some red & black tube.

    The soldering iron looks OK (I've been using a small gas-powered Portasol and it's up to the job) but I can't see the tip, you don't want anything too big. Still, at that price it's worth a punt. Solder looks OK too.


    I don't know how much experience you have soldering so please don't be insulted. Doing the AEG connector isn't a problem but you have to be very careful changing the battery connector. When you snip the old connector off I suggest you snip one lead off, solder that to new Deans connector & cover with shrink tube, only then snip the other lead off the old battery connector & solder/shrink tube it to the Deans. I've seen it happen where people try to cut both battery leads at the same time and end up shorting the battery. BE CAREFUL!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,984 ✭✭✭NakedDex


    Those are the connectors you need alright, and that soldering kit seems to be ok. At 30W, it's a little low on power, but 60/40 doesn't need a massive amount of heat to reach flow point.
    What I would suggest, however, is you get the Multicore 60/40 solder from Radionics instead. It'll be a few euro more expensive, since it's a bigger reel than the smaller option on Component Shop, but it's fluxed. Fluxed solder is infinitely easier to work with. It'll flow better and cleaner, and has far less chance of becoming a dry joint.
    The solder tip is obscured, so it's hard to call, but you don't want a large tip for that work. Ideally, in this case, you'll want a pointed chisel tip. It'll make your life a lot easier.

    As for the battery, I'm not sure about it fitting a CA Crane stock, simply because not every brand of Crane stock has the same diameter battery chamber and, consequently, I can't remember which one was a CA anymore. Some fit, some don't.
    Sub-C is a cell size. It simply means it's smaller than a C size cell. If I remember the range correctly, the pattern goes 5/4 C, C, Sub-C, 3/5 C, 2/3 C, 1/3 C.


    Edit: CC got in there before me.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,757 ✭✭✭richieffff


    Oh yeah I know about the battery 1 lead at a time and was going to order pairs but then when you said I need more females :rolleyes: of couse :P .

    The soldering iron is quite low but I hope it works :) but sure its worth a try for a tenner.

    Wow fairly quick delivery, any opinion on the battery?
    Thanks for the help guys.

    Edit: The batter that came with the gun was quite wide though and the price on the battery is amazing


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,757 ✭✭✭richieffff




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,984 ✭✭✭NakedDex


    Link doesn't work.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,612 ✭✭✭bullets


    A buddy of mine gave me a flux pen Friday,
    Have not tried it yet it could be a handy little thing to have that may make neater soldering jobs.

    http://www.elexp.com/sdr_0720.htm


    ~B


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,757 ✭✭✭richieffff


    Cheers for that, never thought of using a flux pen :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,757 ✭✭✭richieffff


    Ok so I got everything I need, just which wire on the mini-tamiya connector is + and which is -.

    I think the square one with the black wire is negative
    And the circle with the red wire is positive

    Thanks guys :)

    snapshot20110207.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,752 ✭✭✭DeBurca


    Mini Tamiya ROUND pin is Positive + SQUARE pin is Negative - its the other way round on the large Tamiya plug
    Deans plug Horizontal bar is Positive + and the Vertical bar is Negative - when you hold it and the pins form a T


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