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Getting floor level after plumber?

  • 30-12-2010 9:58pm
    #1
    Site Banned Posts: 344 ✭✭


    Folks,

    my plumber duly plumbed the house and has gone.I am filling in the channels he left.Lo an behold, they are very shallow.I filled them in but the insulation is visible level with,an in places protruding above, the floor. Not only this, but now all I filled in is broken up again as people walk on the channels and the insulation is soft underfoot.I am putting 6mm fiber board and 12 mm laminate on top. I did the test today and down the lenght of the coridor where he dug 1 in the middle, 2 boards will meet over the channel.
    Now the laminate is thick but still its at a joint where all the trafic will be. Is there a danger of the laminate sagging here?
    So I routed up all the channels again and remixed the concrete with a watery very strong cement content.Now Im finished. The insulation is as before clear to be seen but will the extra strong concrete mix be enough to withstand the weight? My worrry is , regardless of the concrete mix,it has no power as its only a few mm on insulation.

    Any ideas,?

    thanks in advance

    John


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,672 ✭✭✭tonydude


    H8 saying this but the channels need to be deeper, expecting a skin of concrete to hold weight is madness especially on that pipe lagging. And where ever theres a sag in the fibreboard or a joint over nothing , that laminate will sag big time. Its not strong enough to hold a persons weight, it requires a good level sub floor


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,828 ✭✭✭meercat


    agree with tony dude
    you need to get the pipes much lower
    deep down(not a pun) im sure you know it too
    i know its a lot of hassle,but if you get it right now you will save grief in the long run
    take the pain now or you will regret it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,786 ✭✭✭slimjimmc


    It's a bit industrial, but there's one other thing you could do... lay a strip of steel plate along the channel. You'd need to cut a lip along the sides for the plate to sit on and be flush with the floor.


  • Site Banned Posts: 344 ✭✭johneym


    Thanks lads for the replies.

    good man Slim, its a great suggestion. I had actually thought of that. I was thinking of stainless steel as its very strong an thin.But then I also thought of galvanize. I have this for free and can cut strips of it to suit as many channels are not in a very straight line.This is even thinner than the steel so might not need to cut the lip at all. Then because this is weak, I would use steel nails each side of the strip to secure it to the floor, but more importantly this will give it horizontal strength and prevent it caving in. Ideas?
    I still owe the plumber 250 euro as there is a job he needs to finish off next week when Im supposed to pay him that then. The prob is, i am sure he will not want to re do his work.He was 10 days doing it. If he does re do it it means taking up all the pipework again as its the same level all over the house. And tell me this please...who should pay for this?
    I know things will get ugly but what can i do?

    Thanks a lot in advance,

    John


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    johneym wrote: »
    Thanks lads for the replies.


    I still owe the plumber 250 euro as there is a job he needs to finish off next week when Im supposed to pay him that then. The prob is, i am sure he will not want to re do his work.He was 10 days doing it. If he does re do it it means taking up all the pipework again as its the same level all over the house. And tell me this please...who should pay for this?
    I know things will get ugly but what can i do?

    Thanks a lot in advance,

    John

    You need the plumber back.

    he needs to dig it out . go deeper and invest in a few barrows of concrete.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,262 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    These channels definitely need to be deeper than they currently are.


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