Tractor problem

reilig

Lads,

A neighbour has a New Holland TLA 100 - quite similar to our T5050. It was started during the cold period and conked out and won't start now. Seems like its airlocked as it will turn over freely but won't fire and there's no smoke from it as it turns over. I read the manual for my own and it says to open the top of the filter to and pump the hand pump to bleed it. Did that and have it all closed up again but she still won't fire.

Can anyone tell me if there is something else that we need to do to bleed her. Are there any bleed screws?? The pump clicks on once the ignition is turned on so it doesn't seem to be that. Any advice would be appreciated. I thought these tractors were self bleeders - until I read the manual :mad:

milkprofit

stopper might be stuck on injector pump agentle tap might relive

pakalasa

Can you bleed diesel at the injectors, coming from the pump. You will need to turn the engine doing this as the lift pump wont do at this height normally.

nilhg

Sounds like there could be some waxed fuel still in the system somewhere, opening the pipes at the injectors sounds like a good place to start.

snowman707

First stop is new filters , our IH 885 wouldnt fire Xmas morning, changed the lead filter and went first turn

is there a pump on top of the filter housing? I know it is on the TM models and it is a troublesome little bugger,

Butcher Boy

had the same trouble on TM 125 used a hairdrier on all the line going to tank great job

Muckit

reilig wrote: »

Lads,

A neighbour has a New Holland TLA 100 - quite similar to our T5050. It was started during the cold period and conked out and won't start now. Seems like its airlocked as it will turn over freely but won't fire and there's no smoke from it as it turns over. I read the manual for my own and it says to open the top of the filter to and pump the hand pump to bleed it. Did that and have it all closed up again but she still won't fire.

Can anyone tell me if there is something else that we need to do to bleed her. Are there any bleed screws?? The pump clicks on once the ignition is turned on so it doesn't seem to be that. Any advice would be appreciated. I thought these tractors were self bleeders - until I read the manual :mad:

Not saying your neighbour's tractor is airlocked, but when our NH airlocked was airlocking (eventually found a little slit in fuel line crossing under the cab from the tank to the fuel filter caused by rubbing of the clutch pedal)
I opened the nut at the fuel feed to the injector nearest the cab, have someone turn her over and tighten nut once she starts to go.

If it's not an airlock and your neighbour hasn't changed the fuel filters since the freeze, I'd suggest he changes them as someone else on here has posted. We changed ours and went first turn.

Failing that, a small spray of easystart in the air intake (worked for us the other morning, thought it was diesel problems again)

I'b be surprised if you can't get her going after all that!

Let us know what it was or how you get it going, could be me next time in bother

reilig

Just to follow up on this lads. He decided to get out the dealer to solve the problem as the tractor was near due a service as well. He didn't need the tractor until this week, so he booked the service guy for yesterday. Anyway, the service guy was telling him that he has spent the last 2 weeks out fixing New Hollands and Case tractors that haven't started since the frost. He showed him a filter from one where the diesel had just turned into jelly. He said its a common problem on all modern tractors which will come to light if the tractor isn't started during the really cold weather. He said that winter diesel works down to -12 but when it gets colder than that, the diesel starts to get thicker and at -18, it will turn into jelly.

The tractor is going again anyway. He had to bleed it at the injectors.

Muckit

Hi Reilig

Glad to hear your neighbour got sorted.

Thanks for posting and letting us know the outcome. Fore armed is fore warned.... next winter is coming

pakalasa

Guys, on a similar note. Does anyone know how to get rid of this gelled up diesel without having to strip everything down and clean it. Will it disolve away if heated. Somebody mentioned here that they heated the diesel lines with a hairdryer and it solved the problem. I know you should change the diesel filters and all that.

It's just that I have a neighbour that has spent a fortune on a 4x4 jeep since the bad weather. Different mechanics have told him, it's this and that. It's still not right. I'm convinced it's just gelled up diesel in the lines etc, since the cold weather, cause that's when the problem started.

BeeDI

On a slight digression, the daughter didn't start her Toyota Corolla, for about ten days during the bad frost.
Then, decided to start it up and let ir run for a while before taking in out on the road.
Started first turn of the key. Let it run for ten minutes or so. Came back to it, and noticed what appeared to be a pool of oil running from underneath. Panic set in. Shut off the engine and called me for a look.

Opened bonnet, to find the dipstick had been blown up and oil had been blowing out the opening. Not a lot mind you, but enough to create a mess and leave a small pool on the ground.

Anyway, brought it to the garage to check the cause. Mechanic told me he has seen the same problem numerous time with cars which were left a long time in the frost without being started. Oil freezes / thickens up in the bottom of the sump. As the engine heats up after starting, pressure builds up above the level of the thickest of the oil, causing oil to rise up and displace the dip stick, blah, blah. Not good for the engine apparently.

JohnBoy

Muckit wrote: »

Thanks for posting and letting us know the outcome. Fore armed is fore warned.... next winter is coming

Next Winter?????


Tis only the middle of January yet lad!