Electric Cars in cold weather

Liberalbrehon

Just wondering if anyone knows how the 100% electric cars are faring in the cold weather with start-ups, torque on the ice? etc

peasant

Good question, I'd be interested in that too

(considering that my brand spanking new starter battery was getting pretty asthmatic at -14 there)

congo_90

I'm more interested how they took to heater being on all the time.

also correct me if wrong but electric has a constant torque starting max at around 0 rpm.

biko

I don't have an electric car so had to google but apparently it's fine.

With high-density types such as Li-ion, the problem is usually ensuring
that they don't overheat. Most notebook manufacturers have had problems
with overheating batteries; the problem is much more severe when you're
delivering upwards of 50kW.

To the extent that cold reduces the performance, it isn't as if the car
simply won't start. It just means that you won't get the spec'd 0-60 time
until you've been driving for 5 minutes. Given that the driver is probably
still half asleep, that isn't necessarily a bad thing. ICEs tend not to be
at their best when stone cold either.

The situation is completely different for a lead-acid battery used to
drive a starter motor. Lead-acid doesn't like cold, and you need full
power when it's at its coldest. By the time you have heat, you don't need
the battery.

http://sci.tech-archive.net/Archive/sci.electronics.design/2009-01/msg06607.html

x in the city

well, Electronics devices uses up more power in cold temps for one, so my thesis work told me :rolleyes:

I assume this would mean more frequenct charges for a automobile powered on cells.

BrianD3

congo_90 wrote: »

I'm more interested how they took to heater being on all the time.

Some electric vehicles have a petrol/oil stove for the heater!

As regards driving on ice, I've been told that wheel spinning an electric car (almost inevitable on ice) can damage the motors, as a result there is some sort of wheelspin sensor/cutoff that prevents this. The car may need to be restarted if this happens.

slimjimmc

BrianD3 wrote: »

Some electric vehicles have a petrol/oil stove for the heater!

As regards driving on ice, I've been told that wheel spinning an electric car (almost inevitable on ice) can damage the motors, as a result there is some sort of wheelspin sensor/cutoff that prevents this. The car may need to be restarted if this happens.

Out of interest have you any references for that motor damage, somehow it just doesn't sound right to me. I can't think of any way a DC motor can be damaged by spinning faster during wheel spin or by a sudden load when the wheels find grip again. Though I am aware that wheel spin can confuse traction control systems / ESP on some of conventional cars.

Absurdum

Liberalbrehon wrote: »

Just wondering if anyone knows how the 100% electric cars are faring in the cold weather with start-ups, torque on the ice? etc

they're still ****e

/thread

merc3ps

I have a year 2000 Honda Insight. Hybrid that runs on petrol all the time but uses the battery for a boost, thereby reducing the need for petrol. (I am averaging 72mpg and my best is 89mpg on a 25 mile trip)

The battery is showing signs of age. It tends to recalibrate itself more often than usual.
I have a battery conditioner which I can use to keep it in good condition.

I have noticed that I have to use the conditioner much more frequently in the cold weather.

That is the only effect I have noticed with the cold.

Not a 100% electric car but it might be useful info.

pajo1981

congo_90 wrote: »

also correct me if wrong but electric has a constant torque starting max at around 0 rpm.

Max torque is available at 0 RPM, an falls off with revs.

The accelerator peddle in an electric car is not a switch; you can control the amount of torque being put out - just like in a normal car.

Also an e-car's ESP will limit torque as it detects slippage - just like in a normal car.

Joe 90

merc3ps wrote: »

I have a year 2000 Honda Insight. Hybrid that runs on petrol all the time but uses the battery for a boost, thereby reducing the need for petrol. (I am averaging 72mpg and my best is 89mpg on a 25 mile trip)

The battery is showing signs of age. It tends to recalibrate itself more often than usual.
I have a battery conditioner which I can use to keep it in good condition.

I have noticed that I have to use the conditioner much more frequently in the cold weather.

That is the only effect I have noticed with the cold.

Not a 100% electric car but it might be useful info.

Any idea how much a new battery would be?

slimjimmc

Joe 90 wrote: »

Any idea how much a new battery would be?

I've no idea what they cost here but Stateside, anything from $3500 to $5900.

BrianD3

slimjimmc wrote: »

Out of interest have you any references for that motor damage, somehow it just doesn't sound right to me. I can't think of any way a DC motor can be damaged by spinning faster during wheel spin or by a sudden load when the wheels find grip again. Though I am aware that wheel spin can confuse traction control systems / ESP on some of conventional cars.

i haven't any references but I wonder is it related to the below quote which is for electric locomotives

Wheel Spin Relay (WSR)
A relay in older traction motor control circuits used to detect wheel spin or slide by measuring the current levels in a pair of motors on a bogie and comparing them. The idea is to prevent motor damage by preventing an overspeeding motor causing an unacceptable rise in current in the other motor of the pair. If detected, the imbalance causes the control circuits to open the line breakers and reset the power control to the start position like a "no-volt" relay.

Anan1

slimjimmc wrote: »

Out of interest have you any references for that motor damage, somehow it just doesn't sound right to me. I can't think of any way a DC motor can be damaged by spinning faster during wheel spin or by a sudden load when the wheels find grip again. Though I am aware that wheel spin can confuse traction control systems / ESP on some of conventional cars.

I wonder does an electric motor have any kind of a rev limiter, or will it just keep going faster & faster on a zero-grip surface until something breaks?

DublinDilbert

Lads there's quite a few different types of electric motors, with very different characteristics.

A series motor, unloaded will keep speeding up and may eventually damage it's self. Although most series motors will reach some sort of equilibrium point and not get faster.

All other motors will be limited by the voltage and in the case of ac motors the speed of the rotating field.

merc3ps

The US were very good at battery warranties. This side, not so much.

I would have to pay about 3-5k, not sure.

There are some boffins about who rebuild them. I can swap a dud for a rebuilt one for about 1k + travel costs in the UK.

However, which my conditioner, it is performing as new.

peasant

merc3ps wrote: »

conditioner

:eek:

Hairstyling forum perhaps? (SCNR)