NCT test tomorrow, just wondering...

kaiser sauze

While driving today my nearside front fog lamp was smashed by I would assume a stone or large chipping. There is nothing salvageable of the lens as it completely disintegrated. (The bulb still operates amazingly enough!)

I think that as a result of whatever impact the lens had the housing was loose in its surroundings and I decided to take it out as I simply cannot source another one before tomorrow.

I also took out the offside front fog, even though there is nothing wrong with it.

I had a look at the manual and it would seem as though front fogs are not as stringently tested as headlights and sidelights (parks) p52-55 PDF

As it stands my car will be going into the test tomorrow with two gaps in the front bumper where front fogs can go.

Will the tester fail me because of this?

BrianD3

You don't need working front fog lights for the test. If the lights were coming on when they shouldn't, were loose/jagged or positioned incorrectly you might fail. But two gaps in the bumper where the lights once were = not a fail.

markc1184

If you have an independent switch for your fogs try and remove that also. I was told by a tester before that they will test any light there is a switch for. This may have been him being grumpy but worth noting anyway.

kaiser sauze

BrianD3 wrote: »

You don't need working front fog lights for the test. If the lights were coming on when they shouldn't, were loose/jagged or positioned incorrectly you might fail. But two gaps in the bumper where the lights once were = not a fail.

That section on the manual states that if they were 'insecurely mounted' it would be a fail, hence me taking the defective one out and I think I'm better off avoiding questions by having the other one out also.

Thanks for the advice re:gaps, it's what I was hoping to hear.

markc1184 wrote: »

If you have an independent switch for your fogs try and remove that also. I was told by a tester before that they will test any light there is a switch for. This may have been him being grumpy but worth noting anyway.

The switch is on the same section of the stalk as the rear fog light, so there is nothing I can do about that at this stage, unless I was cheeky and took out the bulb on the VDU. If I get some time in the morning, and based on other feedback I might get, I could do this.

slimjimmc

Why remove the dash bulb, just pull the fuse much simplerererer.

It might be a good idea to wrap the fog-light connector block in insulating tape or duck tape to keep the contacts clean. No need to do this before the test though, just something you could do while you're waiting for a new lamp.

Anyway even if they did fail the fog-lights for some odd reason, it would only be a visual recheck so it's free.

Vertakill

Make sure there is nothing sharp around the light or they'll fail you straight away for that.

mathepac

slimjimmc wrote: »

.... Anyway even if they did fail the fog-lights for some odd reason, it would only be a visual recheck so it's free.

They won't fail them for not working. From the NCT manual Page 51 - "Where auxiliary lamps are found to be inoperative this should not be considered a reason for failure." Auxiliary lamps are defined as front fogs and "spots".

kaiser sauze

slimjimmc wrote: »

Why remove the dash bulb, just pull the fuse much simplerererer.

It might be a good idea to wrap the fog-light connector block in insulating tape or duck tape to keep the contacts clean. No need to do this before the test though, just something you could do while you're waiting for a new lamp.

Anyway even if they did fail the fog-lights for some odd reason, it would only be a visual recheck so it's free.

I'm not sure, but the fuse for the front fog light indicator on the dash may be common to the dipped headlights indicator light.

There is actually a section on the bumper for the plugs to go into and that will keep them clean.

kaiser sauze

mathepac wrote: »

They won't fail them for not working. From the NCT manual Page 51 - "Where auxiliary lamps are found to be inoperative this should not be considered a reason for failure." Auxiliary lamps are defined as front fogs and "spots".

Funny, my reading is that auxiliary lights are only spot lights. The manual seems to differentiate between the two.

In any case, the NCT test is over and done with now. The fog lights were not an issue, my ball joints were too worn though. I thought it might get through, I knew there was some play at the front.

Still, very happy as just this morning my horn did not work and when I changed the fuse it still did not work-the tester missed that one-and given the lack of any work apart from normal servicing for the last 3 years I am actually both surprised and pleased.

mathepac

kaiser sauze wrote: »

Funny, my reading is that auxiliary lights are only spot lights. The manual seems to differentiate between the two...

All the information about condition, aiming, method of testing are contained in the sections headed Auxiliary Lamps; the sub-headings are for Fog Lamps, Auxiliary Headlamps, Spot or long range lamps, etc.

kaiser sauze

Hi all...back again!

As stated before I failed the first test due to worn ball joints and have had them replaced.

I just noticed that they are going to do a "repeat side slip test" in addition to checking the ball joints this evening. [See attached]

To replace my ball joints, my wishbones were removed and I needed to remove the hub assembly from the car to get access. This meant that I had to unscrew the steering arm from the hub on both sides.

Would doing this be likely to have done anything to knock my tracking off alignment? My alignment passed the first test just fine.

My retest is last thing this evening and I still have time to get it into a garage if people here think I should get my alignment checked.

sean1141

if there was any work being done on the suspension you would be as well to get tracking/alignment checked..

kaiser sauze

sean1141 wrote: »

if there was any work being done on the suspension you would be as well to get tracking/alignment checked..

Hi Sean

I went ahead and had alignment done and the retest went fine.

The wheels did need a slight realignment according to the garage.

sean1141

good stuff!! sur you are meant to check them even if ya hit a pothole!! i always look out for uneven wear on the tyres

mgbgt1978

They would have to do a side-slip test as it couldn't be properly checked with worn ball joints.
This is not a tracking test....in fact, your tracking can be miles out and the car will pass the NCT.

kaiser sauze

mgbgt1978 wrote: »

They would have to do a side-slip test as it couldn't be properly checked with worn ball joints.
This is not a tracking test....in fact, your tracking can be miles out and the car will pass the NCT.

That was my hunch also, but I did not want to chance going down because of doing something retarded like knocking my tracking off.

Would you mind explaining to me what is actually done to test 'side slip'? Is there a particular area of the suspension/chassis it is targeting/testing?

kaiser sauze

EDIT - got it on the manual p33-34

I'm still not quite understanding it, is the plate that the car drives onto moving/rotating?

mgbgt1978

Sorry, I was a bit vague in my 1st post. The machine does not specifically test the cars tracking. If the tracking is out and any bushings/ball-joints are worn the machine can give a pass result simply because one can cancel out the other.
The machine is two plates set into the ground which you drive over slowly. The plates themselves dont do anything, they are moved by any deviation from parallel in the cars wheels.
If one wheel is pointing straight ahead and the other is at an angle then the angled wheel will twist the plate slightly.
As far as I can make out a car can pass the side-slip test but if any play is found in the steering or suspension then the NCT will insist on a side-slip retest as well as checking the replacement parts.