Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Sick MF165

  • 31-10-2010 11:17am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 104 ✭✭


    Hi,

    Have an old MF165 with front loader. Hadn't really been used over the summer, actually wasn't used at all, was last used in May to load a few bales of silage and was running fine then.

    Has been in shed all summer, leaks a bit of oil and always has. Jump started it today and was ticking over fine. Put it into reverse and then went to select "High" gear and got awful grinding noise and wouldn't engage, tried "Low" and grinded a small bit and then engaged but took off (slowly) in reverse even though clutch was to the floor so the only way of stopping was to pull the "Stop" switch. Eventually had to abandon ship and with a bit of difficulty got it back in the shed.

    Front loader works fine as does rear lifter. As I said, leaking a bit of oil underneath cab. Would this be the cause of trouble with selecting gears? Could it be solved by topping up the oil? Is there separate oil system for engine/gears and hydraulics for front loader/rear lifter? Does it sound like a serious problem that would probably cost more than the tractor to so sort? Clutch gone?

    I wouldn't have great know how about engines/machines so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 55 ✭✭Horace


    Sounds like a clutch problem because the tractor has not being used for some time the pressure plate has become stuck onto the flywheel and is not engaging i had a similar problem with a nuffield a while back the tractor had to be split to get at the pressure plate which was stuck onto the flywheel by rust


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 104 ✭✭galwaylad1980


    Thanks for the reply Horace, sounds like a big job?

    Really only need the tractor to load a few bales every other week for a lad thats buying our silage. Might have to look for new buyer who could come and load them himself.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 563 ✭✭✭mayo_lad


    Thanks for the reply Horace, sounds like a big job?

    Really only need the tractor to load a few bales every other week for a lad thats buying our silage. Might have to look for new buyer who could come and load them himself.

    spliting any tractor is a big job you could sell it and buy some thing like this http://www.donedeal.ie/for-sale/machinery/1653030 or a tractor for around the same price


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,342 ✭✭✭JohnBoy


    That's a clever little bit of engineering, but could seriously do with a roll bar!


    Galwaylad: basically the clutch plate has rusted onto the flywheel.

    abuse it a little and it should free off, start and stop it, stall it, forwards and backwards, do all that with your foot on the clutch and there's a chance it'll free off. you're gonna need a battery on it as there's a good chance you'll be starting in gear so jumps would be dodgy.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 88 ✭✭valtraman


    sounds like a stuck clutch get it out in a safe open space and drive around with your foot fully down on the clutch ,try to stall it with the brakes . they usually suddenly free up and you are good to go my jcb did that twice aftre lying idle for a while ,has been ok for the last two years
    the other possibility is oil on the clutch plates in which case the clutch will slip when you try the brakes but still be very difficult to get into gear


  • Advertisement
  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,401 ✭✭✭reilig


    mayo_lad wrote: »
    spliting any tractor is a big job you could sell it and buy some thing like this http://www.donedeal.ie/for-sale/machinery/1653030 or a tractor for around the same price

    "hello, fbd insurance??

    I'd like to get a quote for my 6 ton dumper?

    Its a standard build all the way, 4 wheels and an engine at the back.

    Oh by the way, I removed the skip from it, but its running well

    Also, I took off the rollbar, but sure I don't go up any hills with it

    By the way, did I mention that I welded on a light frome where the skip used to be and I mounted a front loader on it?

    What do you mean CE Safety Plate??

    Sure its as safe as bricks and mortar. Loaders mounted on dumpers are the future of farming.

    Oh !!

    FBD don't want my custom"


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 104 ✭✭galwaylad1980


    JohnBoy and valtraman thanks a million for the advice, tried it out today, got it out of the shed with clutch to the floor, dabbed breaks a couple of times going backwards and again going forwards and next thing it just clicked and problem sorted. Has really gotten me out of a bind so thanks a million.

    Like I was saying in my first post tractor is leaking a small bit of oil. I was going to top it up but have a couple of questions:

    1. Is there just one oil system for hydraulics (front loader and rear lift) and engine or do they both run off same oil?
    2. If separate systems any idea where engine oil is filled and where hydraulic oil filled?
    3. There's a short dipstick for oil to the right of the gears sticks what is this for and is this the only dipstick or is there a second one somewhere on the tractor?
    4. Lastly whats the best oil to use, I found 25L drum in our shed for universal tractor oil 15w30, would this do the job or make a balls of it?

    Again thanks a million for all the replys lads, as you can tell from my questions I'm not the best with tractors engines and all the advice is greatly appreciated!


  • Users Awaiting Email Confirmation Posts: 1,495 ✭✭✭pajero12


    JohnBoy and valtraman thanks a million for the advice, tried it out today, got it out of the shed with clutch to the floor, dabbed breaks a couple of times going backwards and again going forwards and next thing it just clicked and problem sorted. Has really gotten me out of a bind so thanks a million.

    Like I was saying in my first post tractor is leaking a small bit of oil. I was going to top it up but have a couple of questions:

    1. Is there just one oil system for hydraulics (front loader and rear lift) and engine or do they both run off same oil?
    2. If separate systems any idea where engine oil is filled and where hydraulic oil filled?
    3. There's a short dipstick for oil to the right of the gears sticks what is this for and is this the only dipstick or is there a second one somewhere on the tractor?
    4. Lastly whats the best oil to use, I found 25L drum in our shed for universal tractor oil 15w30, would this do the job or make a balls of it?

    Again thanks a million for all the replys lads, as you can tell from my questions I'm not the best with tractors engines and all the advice is greatly appreciated!

    1.No,there are 2 different oil systems for hydraulics and engine..
    2.Not sure exactly but should be a filler cab somewhere around the top of the rear end
    3.That one is probabaly for the hydraulic oil.Theres one for the hydraulics and one on the block for engine oil.
    4.Thats engine oil.Use specific oil for engine and hydraulics..
    Hope this helps..Joe


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 950 ✭✭✭ellewood


    there should be a big nut 19 i think beside the gerastick to fill the hydrolic oil


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,342 ✭✭✭JohnBoy


    No problem.

    I swapped my ford 2600 for a fergie 20 because the clutch was knackered. the deal was to be done in the other lad's yard.

    (dude I was swapping with knew the clutch was borked)

    Loaded up, went to his place, checked out the 20, not great but probably better than the 2600.

    Clutch sorted itself out on the way off my trailer in his yard, with the deal done on the 20!!!!


    we learn from our experiences :)


  • Advertisement
  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,401 ✭✭✭reilig


    We put the universal oil into our MF168 as recommended by our mechanic. He says that these back ends were not made to operate with thin hydraulic oil.

    The dipstick for the hydraulic oil is a small little one just under the lift control lever (there is a hydraulic speed control lever there too).



    JohnBoy and valtraman thanks a million for the advice, tried it out today, got it out of the shed with clutch to the floor, dabbed breaks a couple of times going backwards and again going forwards and next thing it just clicked and problem sorted. Has really gotten me out of a bind so thanks a million.

    Like I was saying in my first post tractor is leaking a small bit of oil. I was going to top it up but have a couple of questions:

    1. Is there just one oil system for hydraulics (front loader and rear lift) and engine or do they both run off same oil?
    2. If separate systems any idea where engine oil is filled and where hydraulic oil filled?
    3. There's a short dipstick for oil to the right of the gears sticks what is this for and is this the only dipstick or is there a second one somewhere on the tractor?
    4. Lastly whats the best oil to use, I found 25L drum in our shed for universal tractor oil 15w30, would this do the job or make a balls of it?

    Again thanks a million for all the replys lads, as you can tell from my questions I'm not the best with tractors engines and all the advice is greatly appreciated!


Advertisement