drilling bath

dubdad

hi all
drilling tapholes in an acrylic bath

i was thinking of using a diamond - tipped holesaw-the type used for porcelain tiles- for drilling my new acrylic bath (mere with carronite reinforcing). is this ok?

i am buying some of these cheap from a chinese site for the porcelin tiles going in too (the circular type without the pilot bit) will use a guide too, an adjustable plate and sucker job with 4 bearings to hold the bit steady. so i figured it would b handy if i could use them on the bath as i dont have a decent holesaw with auger, and they are expensive from what i have seen.

i read somewhare a carbide steel bit is best with the teeth ground down to a shallower angle, so u are effectively grinding the acrylic, fine if you are doing this all the time.

if its ok to use should i drill fast or slow, and use some water for cooling, lubrication?

any pointers greatly accepted

Joey the lips

A bath even with carronite is easy to drill. The bit you have will be fine.

Just be carful to get the centres correct.

I take it you came to a decision on the shower.

You are makeing a wise one to go with the carronite on the bath. Make sure the receipt specified carronite. The bath is usually dark underneath. I have seen people supply baths with it on the receipt and never actually got it.

ps. use a pilot bit and masking tape on the smooth surface. In otherwords drill down not up. This might be obvious but just in case.

Sparkpea

I use bi metal holesaw bits with a pilot. Usually mask the top of the bath where your drilling to help protect it and also makes it easier to mark out. Use a battery drill and not on too high speed. I have a wooden cutout piece I made to use for all my taps just make sure you have 7 inch centers etc and test it before doing so if you use one of these

Joey the lips

Sparkpea wrote: »

I use bi metal holesaw bits with a pilot. Usually mask the top of the bath where your drilling to help protect it and also makes it easier to mark out. Use a battery drill and not on too high speed. I have a wooden cutout piece I made to use for all my taps just make sure you have 7 inch centers etc and test it before doing so if you use one of these

Not to be padantic the measurement is usually in millimeters. Which is 180mm centres just a little over the 7" but its a while since i have done it.

I would also watch because some foreign crap is actually 150mm centres.

Just measure the tap from outside to outside to be sure.

Sparkpea

Joey the lips wrote: »

Not to be padantic the measurement is usually in millimeters. Which is 180mm centres just a little over the 7" but its a while since i have done it.

Thats good to know now actually because it will always stick in my head now. I was taught by my old man who is old skool and still talks in feet and inches so I'm used to hearing 7" centers so some stuff I recall in feet and inches and others in metric For all the difference there is really most taps have enough coverage because you dont want them to be too tight to get in.

dubdad

thanks on the tips lads
the template is a good idea, i was going to use one of these:
[URL="javascript:window.close()"][/URL]
which is coming with the bits but the pre drilled timber might b better.
i cant use a pilot because the bits are not the type that fit over an auger

the shower will 95 percent be a mira elite st

just want to check water flow again ang make sure there is no dw/wm running at same time , and bring hose hown from attic to approx level of shower head and c how much water i get

btw diamond coated hole saw 20mm-1.51euro, 10x 8mm diamond coated bits-5.96euro

little cheaper than here, for a one off so they dont have to last before i get an earfull on quality

dubdad

oops
one of these that is
yeah its a carronite one for sure, dark underneath, even in manufacturers label on bath, i think there might even be timber re-inforcining under the rim too, carronited in, i will proceed with caution anyhow, i'll only get one chance at cutting it.