VW Golf 00

YourName

I am going to look at a Golf tonight, it looks clean and its not a horrible price either, what are the common issues with these cars that I should look out for???

Also what are the other general issues I should check in the car???

homer90

What engine has it ?

YourName

Its a 1.4

voxpop

1.4s have a tendency to drink oil

johnos1984

Head gasket

Whats the price?

Mr Benevolent

YourName wrote: »

Its a 1.4

Stay away from the 1.4s. The engine and gearbox gives a lot of trouble.

lau1247

i have a 03 golf and have none of the issues as described by other boardsies (drink oil, head gasket, engine or gearbox)..

I guess i must be the lucky one??

from my experience the internal component can be 'loose' (i.e. when you go over bumps it rattles)

crosstownk

Drink oil, gearbox, MAF, door locks, head gasket, piston slap. All common enough on Golfs.

I've a 2000 Bora with the same engine (1.4 AHW) and have had the pistons replaced due to piston slap, above average oil consumption, poltergeist door locks.

Oddly enough, I still like the car and it drives well.

benj

My wife has a 01 golf 1.4, never a problem, good solid car also

sean1141

More so for the diesel but there is some usefull stuff in there

Mk4 Gt Tdi Buying & General Mk4 Info.

-Without doubt the 150 is obviously the more tunable, although many do say the 130 actually is due to less turbo-Lag. Prob not much too choose between them in terms of longevity tbh, just maintain it sensibly, and it'll be fine. 150's give more trouble with camshaft wear and clutch/flywheel wear.

-Any mk4 buying guide is going to apply to the diesel in most respects apart from the engine.

-The 100 is generally worth giving a miss, unless a complete steal. All comes back to a question of money too really.

-The 110 and 115 are almost identical. However most 110s came with a 5speed box and had significantly less torque. 115PD's have a 6speed box.

-The 130 is obviously the best compromise, although any of the models can be ecu mapped to add approx another 40ish bhp, while 115 still a competent choice too

-Visually, 130 and 115 will look similar. The 130 has avus II 15" rims

-However the 150 can be identified from the 130 thus:

*Alot of UK 150's got GTI and GT red I badges.
*Intercooler alongside the rad (if you're under bonnet), As opposed to SMIC on the 130 etc.
*Different front valence(As 4mot),
*Alloy wheels, four 6½ x 16 ‘Montreal II’ with 205/55 R16 tyres and anti theft wheel bolts,
*Black Wood Trim,
*Leather/wood gear knob,
*Lowered Suspension,
*Lumbar support (both front seats),
*3 rear head restraints with rear centre three point seat belt.

-Ideally use the data sticker to verify the model - don't rely on boot badges.....
-There's 3 stickers to match up: In the boot, in the service book and on top of the cambelt cover(small sticker, still with engine code on it)

-Each tdi model remaps differently, typically adding about 40hp (generic).

-Choosing a bora is a good idea - much cheaper than the golf, but more or less same performance and spec. Sport/ Highline models one to aim for.

-Expect 50 MPG from TDI's on a mixed run, and down to circa low 40's for around town.


Main Models of mk4:

Petrol's:
1.4
1.6
2.0 8v: 115hp (basically the engine from the mk3gti8v)
1.8 20v: 125hp (no turbo)
1.8 20vt : 150hp, 180hp (same engine, later uses different turbo)
2.3 V5: 150hp, 170hp (5 cylinder engines)
V6 4motion: 204hp 2.8 24v
R32 240hp 3.2 24v

Diesels:
090: as the original mk3 tdi (non-PD tho)
110: development of the mk3 gttdi engine
115: As above, but with more torque; with PD technology(no main fuel dist, injectors are direct)
130: As above but with different turbo/injectors/map
150: As above again with different turbo/FMIC/map.

Golf and Golf Variant
Model Years Engine code Displ. Power Torque

1.4 1997–2006 I4 16V AHW / AXP / BCA 1390 cc 55 kW (75 PS; 74 hp) @ 5000 rpm 126 N·m (93 lb·ft) @ 3800 rpm

1.6 1997–2000 I4 8V AEH / AKL / APF 1595 cc 74 kW (101 PS; 99 hp) @ 5600 rpm 145 N·m (107 lb·ft) @ 3800 rpm
1.6 2000–2006 I4 8V AVU / BFQ 1595 cc 75 kW (102 PS; 101 hp) @ 5600 rpm 148 N·m (109 lb·ft) @ 3800 rpm
1.6 2000–2006 I4 16V AUS / AZD / ATN / BCB 1598 cc 77 kW (105 PS; 103 hp) @ 5700 rpm 148 N·m (109 lb·ft) @ 4500 rpm
1.6 FSI 2001–2006 I4 16V BAD 1598 cc 81 kW (110 PS; 109 hp) @ 5800 rpm 155 N·m (114 lb·ft) @ 4400 rpm

1.8 1997–1999 I4 20V AGN 1781 cc 92 kW (125 PS; 123 hp) @ 6000 rpm 170 N·m (130 lb·ft) @ 4200 rpm
1.8 T 1997–2006 I4 20V AGU / ARZ / AUM 1781 cc 110 kW (150 PS; 148 hp) @ 5700 rpm 210 N·m (150 lb·ft) @ 1750–4600
1.8 T 2001–2006 I4 20V AUQ / AWP 1781 cc 132 kW (179 PS; 177 hp) @ 5500 rpm 235 N·m (173 lb·ft) @ 1950–5000

2.0 1999–2001 I4 8V APK/AQY 1984 cc 85 kW (116 PS; 114 hp) @ 5200 rpm 170 N·m (130 lb·ft) @ 2400 rpm
2.0 2001–2006 I4 8V AZJ / AZH 1984 cc 85 kW (116 PS; 114 hp) @ 5400 rpm 172 N·m (127 lb·ft) @ 3200 rpm

2.3 V5 1997–2000 VR5 10V AGZ 2324 cc 110 kW (150 PS; 148 hp) @ 6000 rpm 205 N·m (151 lb·ft) @ 3200 rpm
2.3 V5 2000–2003 VR5 20V AQN 2324 cc 125 kW (170 PS; 168 hp) @ 6200 rpm 220 N·m (160 lb·ft) @ 3300 rpm

2.8 VR6 1999–2002 VR6 12V AAA / AFP 2792 cc 128 kW (174 PS; 172 hp) @ 5800 rpm 235 N·m (173 lb·ft) @ 4200 rpm
2.8 V6 2002-2005 VR6 24V AQP / AUE / BDE 2792 cc 150 kW (204 PS; 201 hp) @ 6000 rpm 270 N·m (200 lb·ft) @ 3200 rpm

3.2 R32 2001–2004 VR6 24V BFH / BML 3189 cc 177 kW (241 PS; 237 hp) @ 6250 rpm 320 N·m (240 lb·ft) @ 2800 rpm

1.9 SDI 1997–2006 I4 8V AGP / AQM 1896 cc 50 kW (68 PS; 67 hp) @ 4200 rpm 133 N·m (98 lb·ft) @ 2200–2600 rpm

1.9 TDI 1997–2003 I4 8V AGR / ALH 1896 cc 66 kW (90 PS; 89 hp) @ 4000 rpm 210 N·m (150 lb·ft) @ 1900 rpm
1.9 TDI 2000–2006 I4 8V ATD / AXR 1896 cc 74 kW (101 PS; 99 hp) @ 4000 rpm 240 N·m (180 lb·ft) @ 1800–2400
1.9 TDI 1997–2002 I4 8V AHF / ASV 1896 cc 81 kW (110 PS; 109 hp) @ 4150 rpm 235 N·m (173 lb·ft) @ 1900 rpm
1.9 TDI 1998–2000 I4 8V AJM 1896 cc 85 kW (116 PS; 114 hp) @ 4000 rpm 285 N·m (210 lb·ft) @ 1900 rpm
1.9 TDI 1999–2001 I4 8V AUY 1896 cc 85 kW (116 PS; 114 hp) @ 4000 rpm 310 N·m (230 lb·ft) @ 1900 rpm
1.9 TDI 2001–2006 I4 8V ASZ 1896 cc 96 kW (131 PS; 129 hp) @ 4000 rpm 310 N·m (230 lb·ft) @ 1900 rpm
1.9 TDI 2000–2003 I4 8V ARL 1896 cc 110 kW (150 PS; 148 hp) @ 4000 rpm 320 N·m (240 lb·ft) @ 1900 rpm

Golf Cabriolet

Model Years Engine code Displ. Power Torque

1.6 1998–2000 I4 8V AFT / AKS 1595 cc 74 kW (101 PS; 99 hp) @ 5800 rpm 140 N·m (100 lb·ft) @ 3500 rpm

1.8 1998–2000 I4 8V AAM / ANN 1781 cc 55 kW (75 PS; 74 hp) @ 5000 rpm 140 N·m (100 lb·ft) @ 2500 rpm
1.8 1998–2000 I4 8V ADZ / ANP 1781 cc 66 kW (90 PS; 89 hp) @ 5500 rpm 145 N·m (107 lb·ft) @ 2500 rpm

2.0 1998–2000 I4 8V AGG 1984 cc 85 kW (116 PS; 114 hp) @ 5400 rpm 166 N·m (122 lb·ft) @ 2600 rpm
2.0 2000–2002 I4 8V AWG / AWF 1984 cc 85 kW (116 PS; 114 hp) @ 5400 rpm 165 N·m (122 lb·ft) @ 3200 rpm

1.9 TDI 1998–2002 I4 8V ALE 1896 cc 66 kW (90 PS; 89 hp) @ 3750 rpm 210 N·m (150 lb·ft) @ 1900 rpm


Some of the 'typical' things going wrong with mk4s include

-Mafs - become u/s so power loss experienced
-coilpacks - breakup causing misfires
-window regs - break so glass drops.
-arb drop links - wear out creating irritating knocking @ front
-beam bushes - specialist tools needed.
-brake light switches - tricky to fit new, easily broke
-wiper linkage - seizes up.
-master cylinders - replace.
-washer lines - needs unblocking
-water pumps - replace factory plastic with metal one.
-dirty throttle - needs cleaning.
-hazards - the one piece switch/relay needs replacing.
-temp sender - known to fail causing fuelling probs.

-Check for regular cambelt changes - interval is 60k with later cars on 40k. Prudent to replace the tensioner and idle wheels too.


FAQ concerning mk4s are:

*My car has flat spots when accelerating.
Possible causes are a faulty or dirty MAF sensor, split turbo hose, faulty EGR or N75 boost control valves. These don’t always appear as faults on VAGCOM. MAF sensor appears to be the most common fault. Cleaning the MAF may help but ultimately, it needs replacing.

*How do I remove my OEM head unit?
Cut a sturdy but no longer required credit card/plastic card into 1cm strips length ways. Insert these into the slots located on the left and right hand lower sides of the HU and it will unlock and you can then remove it.

*My rear washer isnt working.
It’s likely that the washer hose has detached, probably from the motor. Sometimes it can detach in the roof lining but you’ll probably notice a wet patch.

*My car keeps stalling / misfiring.
This could be caused by a faulty MAF sensor (again), temperature sender, relay 109 (diesels only), dirty throttle body, faulty coilpacks (petrol) or dirty contacts on the ignition amplifier.

Relay 109 - the sure-fire sign is when you try to start the car, the glowplug lamp stays out. After a few tries, glowplug light comes on, car starts


*My window has fallen into the door.
The plastic window regulator has probably failed. Repair kits are available, which contain metal clips.

*My central locking / door lock / alarm isnt working.
This could be due to a faulty door lock module. You might be able to repair the faulty door lock by re-soldering the connections. Some people seem to have success simply spraying with WD40. Otherwise, it's a case of having to replace it.

*My windscreen wipers have stopped working.
The mechanism has probably seized. You can either replace the mechanism or strip it down, rub it with wet and dry and re-grease.


*There's a rattle when I accelerate.
This usually means the front or centre exhaust mount has snapped,small amount of welding needed or you could try using some large jubilee clips.

*My cooling fans don't seem to be working correctly when the aircon is running.
Unfortunately, this is another common fault on the MkIV. I THINK it mostly affects the models that have climatronic aircon. To check if your fans are faulty, following is recommended:

1. turn engine on,
2. turn aircon on,
3. make sure ECON is "OFF"
4. Check fans are running constantly IE for more than 1-2 minutes
5. if the fans do nothing then run very fast, then stop after a minute or 2 or even 3 then you have faulty fans
Fans

*My key-fob doesn't work
Assuming that the batteries are ok, it's likely that the key has lost it's code. If you have 2 keys, put one in the ignition and turn on (I'd lower the windows, just in case!), manually lock the drivers door with the other key. Press either/both buttons on the remote (alarm should chirp). Manually unlock the door and turn the ignition off. It should now be coded.

*There's resistance in the steering followed by a strange twanging noise, especially when making slow, full lock manoeuvres.
Strut top bearings possibly seized.

*Boot light doesn't work
Possibly a blown bulb but more likely the rear washer hose has popped off and soaked the boot catch. There is a microswitch in the mechanism that doesn't like getting wet. Remove the boot lid cover by undoing a screw in each handle on the inside, then pull the plastic cover to unclip. The boot catch then comes out by undoing the 2 large spline bolts. Try drying the switch with a hairdryer after stopping the leaking hose, or ultimately replace the whole boot catch. Can also cause the alarm to act strangely.

*Heated mirrors don't work
First check to see if your car has them! Pop the mirror glass out by getting your fingers behind the outer edge and pulling, if there are 2 wires attached then they are heated. They are activated by turning on the rear window demister. Check to see if there is 12 Volts across the 2 wires, and/or check the fuse. If there is 12 Volts there and the glass doesn't get warm then the mirror glass needs replacing.

*When I adjust the driver's wing mirror, the passenger mirror also moves but when I adjust the passenger mirror the drivers side stays still - is this a fault?
This is a feature not a fault, for convenience when adjusting for different driver height etc. To adjust mirrors, move the drivers side first ® and then adjust passenger side (L) if necessary

*The traction control light is coming on whilst I'm driving
This might also throw an alternator fault code also. The light will go out if the engine is switched off and back on. Follow the 2 small wires from alternator to a connector at front of gearbox, the wires break at that connector.

*There's a clunking noise when I go over small bumps
Possibly caused by worn Anti-Roll Bar bushes.

*MkIV Door drop
You'll need the appropriate Spline bit that fits the hinge bolts (to fit a 1/2" or 3/8" drive ratchet), an extension bit at least 6" long (again 1/2" or 3/8" drive to suit the ratchet you're using) and an extra pair of hands! With the door open you should be able to reach the bolt furthest forward (TIP: get some 2" masking tape and mask the door edge and wing edge where you'll be working to prevent damage) you'll need to use the ratchet with extension bar insert it between the wing and front edge of the door and loosen the bolt. Now you'll need to release the kick panel trim inside the car (by the go faster pedal!) this requires you to unscrew the accelerator stop (the plastic lug under the accelerator pedal) now with a little pulling and maneuvering you'll be able to get the trim off (WARNING: be aware that the airbag control box is behind this panel don't fiddle with the wires !) you should be able to get at the bolts now, a torch can be handy here! Loosen the remaining bolts but beware I'd leave one slightly nipped up just so the door doesn't drop dramatically! now it's just a case of adjusting it until the door fits correctly- don't expect to get it right first time though ! As soon as you've got it sussed tighten all the bolts and refit trim etc !


*Smokey starts/Low MPG/ Erratic idle
Most likely your coolant temp sensor, located at the back of the block in most cases, replace for the revised green sensor.

Useful links, history check also if you want to read more into faults diagnosis, how to's etc

*History check
www.mywheels.ie

*Faults and how to's taken from shanes sticky in tech info.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=7...7432564#7432564

http://www.pocketrocket.ca/vwtech.htm

http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/46.aspx

http://tdiclub.com/TDIFAQ/

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1835863

http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/p/56052/425656.aspx

lukester

My mum's 00 1.4 engine seized a few months back. Impossible to know what the cause was, but both the VW garage and our local VW independent mechanic said the earliest 1.4 engines had been troublesome. They said the 1.4 engine was replaced with a different version from 02 onwards IIRC.

chrisp2281

I'm viewing a 00 Gold myself this evening

I'm slightly worried about it now given what has been written in this thread

is this all a bit panicky or should I stay well clear?

EPM

Look for a 1.4 Focus instead if you're worried about tax. Best option is a 1.6. Less trouble and slightly cheaper:)

Carson10

Have a 03 1.4 golf

Very good solid car. Would recemmond buying one. check the doors how heavy and solid they are. Focus is a tin box and gets blowin away on the motorway.. Golf sits like a tank.

Make sure the timing belt & water pump were replaced at 60k or around.

The golf wears very well. mine still looks like new inside and out when i give it a clean.

Have a look at how many old golfs you see on the road, loads of them so they obviously stand the test of time. Not many old fords on the go because they fall apart with poor build quality.

chrisp2281

Having looked around at old Golfs, that is why i am quite keen on them

They do seem to look good and the one I am viewing hasn't as much as a scratch on it

If it looks good on the outside, quite likely it was cared for on the inside I would have thought and hoped

Carson10 wrote: »

Have a 03 1.4 golf

Very good solid car. Would recemmond buying one. check the doors how heavy and solid they are. Focus is a tin box and gets blowin away on the motorway.. Golf sits like a tank.

Make sure the timing belt & water pump were replaced at 60k or around.

The golf wears very well. mine still looks like new inside and out when i give it a clean.

Have a look at how many old golfs you see on the road, loads of them so they obviously stand the test of time. Not many old fords on the go because they fall apart with poor build quality.

EPM

Carson10 wrote: »

Have a 03 1.4 golf

Very good solid car. Would recemmond buying one. check the doors how heavy and solid they are. Focus is a tin box and gets blowin away on the motorway.. Golf sits like a tank.

Can't say that's true. My old mk 1.5 Focus was as solid as any run of the mill Mk IV Golf I've driven on the road and a good bit less wallowy too.

Carson10 wrote: »

Make sure the timing belt & water pump were replaced at 60k or around.

Big +1 - should have had 2 changes by now. Every 4 years or 60k miles is the interval, whichever comes first.

Carson10 wrote: »

The golf wears very well. .

Wear is often a reflection of how well a car has been looked after. Have seen plenty of low milers in bits. In saying that though, a lot of the soft touch plastics on Golf's seem to wear prematurely (like the door pulls for example and leather wheels).

Carson10 wrote: »

Have a look at how many old golfs you see on the road, loads of them so they obviously stand the test of time. Not many old fords on the go because they fall apart with poor build quality.

I call bull on that. Fords are at least on a par with VAG cars in terms of assembly. Just because it's got a wad of squishy plastic on the top of the dash does not mean it's well built. VW love to give the impression of solidity with their advertising campaigns but in reality, over the last 10-15 years the opposite is the truth.

sean1141

do you really need a 1.4 if not consider a tdi. one that has been look after would be a lot better buy.. you will save the differance in the tax in under 10 thousand miles

ianobrien

Carson10 wrote: »

Very good solid car. Would recemmond buying one. check the doors how heavy and solid they are. Focus is a tin box and gets blowin away on the motorway.. Golf sits like a tank.

.

Now that's funny! The sound when closing a door is nothing as to how well the car is built, or how safe it is in an accident. Have you compared the weights of the cars and their doors? All I want in a door is that it keeps the rain out and stays closed in an accident. I don't care what it sounds like, I want it to be functional and for the windows and locks to work (that's asking for a lot in a Golf of that vintage!)

It seems that people have been swayed by the marketing blurb of VW.

I can attest to the strength of a Almera door. It doesn't close with a solid clunk, doesn't have the "soft" plastics loved by some, but having rolled an Almera and writing off the car, the door stayed closed in the accident and opened properly. Now that's a properly functioning door, and I don't care if it sounded tinny when closed!

*** and breathe ****

YourName

Well I went and bought the Golf last week that I was talking about in the original post. Its very clean, running very well, and my mechanic took a look at it and thinks its a great car.

I understand a few people on this thread look down on the 1.4 Golfs, but doesn't every car give a little trouble from time to time, I wouldn't not buy a car becuase somebody else had an issue with the same model car, thats madness. I will take good care of it, and service it and make sure everything is kept in great woring order so I won't have the issues the others are talking about, which I am sure could have been avoided if it had been checked over regularly and taken care of.

Stevie Dakota

Good luck with it, hope you have a good one, just keep a very close eye on how much oil it is using over the next few months.

Carson10

Good luck, you made the right choice, wont be disapointed.

Carson10

ianobrien wrote: »

All I want in a door is that it keeps the rain out and stays closed in an accident. I don't care what it sounds like, I want it to be functional and for the windows and locks to work

Sounds like my mother :-D

drBill

Recently I put together a list of my gripes about my '01 golf so I thought I might as well post them here.
Hope this doesn't upset you or anything now that you've bought the car, that certainly isn't my intention! Mine has a lot of miles and has taken a bit of punishment so I don't expect you'll have anywhere near the number of little annoyances I've had. Best of luck with the new car.

Build quality of interior:
- drivers door lock starting to break
- light switch not working on drivers door
- light switch not working in boot
- drivers window up/down switch for passenger side worn out
- instrument light dimmer worn out
- cigarette lighter comes apart
- drivers seat height adjustment broken
- passenter seat forward-back slider broken
- heated rear window switch split in two
- handbrake button fell off
- latch fell off lid of compartment between 2 front seats

Poor design:
- insufficient separation between high and low beam
- insufficient separation between normal and anti-glare rear view mirror
- whenever they lock, rear seat belts have to be fully rewound to reset
(makes fitting a child seat a real pain)
- poor windscreen demister
- centre sun visor is far too small
- vanity lights in visors dont automatically shut off

Good design:
- can raise or lower windows via outside door lock
- nice blue instrument lights
- fold down armrest in back seat
- power socket in boot
- good front window washers
- very good roofrack mounting system

VeVeX

EPM wrote: »

Wear is often a reflection of how well a car has been looked after. Have seen plenty of low milers in bits. In saying that though, a lot of the soft touch plastics on Golf's seem to wear prematurely (like the door pulls for example and leather wheels).

Leather wheels?

EPM

Steering wheel? Use your head man

Carson10

woh thats alot. what spec is your golf? mileage?

VeVeX

drBill wrote: »

Recently I put together a list of my gripes about my '01 golf so I thought I might as well post them here.
Hope this doesn't upset you or anything now that you've bought the car, that certainly isn't my intention! Mine has a lot of miles and has taken a bit of punishment so I don't expect you'll have anywhere near the number of little annoyances I've had. Best of luck with the new car.

Build quality of interior:
- drivers door lock starting to break
- light switch not working on drivers door
- light switch not working in boot
- drivers window up/down switch for passenger side worn out
- instrument light dimmer worn out
- cigarette lighter comes apart
- drivers seat height adjustment broken
- passenter seat forward-back slider broken
- heated rear window switch split in two
- handbrake button fell off
- latch fell off lid of compartment between 2 front seats

Poor design:
- insufficient separation between high and low beam
- insufficient separation between normal and anti-glare rear view mirror
- whenever they lock, rear seat belts have to be fully rewound to reset
(makes fitting a child seat a real pain)
- poor windscreen demister
- centre sun visor is far too small
- vanity lights in visors dont automatically shut off

Good design:
- can raise or lower windows via outside door lock
- nice blue instrument lights
- fold down armrest in back seat
- power socket in boot
- good front window washers
- very good roofrack mounting system

Personally instead of making a list I'd go about fixing the problems. Your car is nearly 10 years old and I think its fair to say every 10 year old car needs a little TLC. You wouldn't go 10 years without painting the inside of your house. Its called maintainance and that doesn't stop at a service and a set of tyres.

Center sun visor too small?? Most cars dont even have these. Im laughing at this to be honest.

VeVeX

EPM wrote: »

Steering wheel? Use your head man

I agree the poverty spec plastic steering wheels look dreadfull over 80K. However any of the better spec'd Golfs had leather wheels ( ) that wear extremely well in fairness.

drBill

VeVeX wrote: »

Personally instead of making a list I'd go about fixing the problems. Your car is nearly 10 years old and I think its fair to say every 10 year old car needs a little TLC. You wouldn't go 10 years without painting the inside of your house. Its called maintainance and that doesn't stop at a service and a set of tyres.

Well I guess it's different strokes for different folks. I don't have the money or inclination to fix them so I've chosen to live with them and, out of the kindness of my heart, to take a few minutes to share the information with others.:) However I think it's fair to say that many of the items in that list would not typically be considered consumables.

VeVeX wrote: »

Center sun visor too small?? Most cars dont even have these. Im laughing at this to be honest.

Yeah, I know that one is a bit petty alright. However from a design point of view, if you go to the bother of fitting a flip-down visor to plug the gap between the roof and centre rear view mirror, why would you make it half the size of that gap? It's a nice idea but poorly executed and the end result is not very useful.

VeVeX

drBill wrote: »

Well I guess it's different strokes for different folks. I don't have the money or inclination to fix them so I've chosen to live with them and, out of the kindness of my heart, to take a few minutes to share the information with others.:) However I think it's fair to say that many of the items in that list would not typically be considered consumables.


Yeah, I know that one is a bit petty alright. However from a design point of view, if you go to the bother of fitting a flip-down visor to plug the gap between the roof and centre rear view mirror, why would you make it half the size of that gap? It's a nice idea but poorly executed and the end result is not very useful.

Its all well and good sharing information but if you had an inclination to fix the parts you described as they broke the outlay is minimal and you wouldn't have the problems. If something breaks in my car I fix it because I want to keep it in as good a condition as possible.

I also think from your description of the middle sun visor that either your windscreen was replaced or your rear view mirror was replaced in the wrong position. There is only a very minimal gap normally.

sean1141

drBill wrote: »

Build quality of interior:
- drivers door lock starting to break
- light switch not working on drivers door
- light switch not working in boot
- drivers window up/down switch for passenger side worn out
- instrument light dimmer worn out
- cigarette lighter comes apart
- drivers seat height adjustment broken
- passenter seat forward-back slider broken
- heated rear window switch split in two
- handbrake button fell off
- latch fell off lid of compartment between 2 front seats

most of these parts could be replaced for about 200 euro if you pick up some second hand parts and fitted them yourself..

drBill wrote: »

- vanity lights in visors dont automatically shut off

i dont get you? in my bora when you closed the slide over the mirror the light went off or when you put the voisor back up they went out??

squod

sean1141 wrote: »

More so for the diesel but there is some usefull stuff in there

Mk4 Gt Tdi Buying & General Mk4 Info.

Are there such things as Mk4 GT TDi. Though they were all rebadged. Serious questiion like.

sean1141

some uk dealers badged them as gt tdi but i dont think vw ever made them.. some of the 150 bhp were badged as a gti tdi

babi-hrse

while i know this thread is yonks old! i have a 01 golf 1.4 ahw engine that ive owned for 5 years got at 65K fully serviced water pump timing belt tensioners pulleys ect.
the only things that have gone on it in the entire time ive owned it have been
the exhaust backbox the catylic converter front shocks.
still riding the clutch i bought it with car is amazing!
now at 100k and drinks oil albiet not to excess a litre every 400miles.
gearbox side engine mount bushing needs to be replaced as the engine shifts under load which make takeoffs a touch jerky!
passenger door has on occasion developed a phantom unlock/lock not a big concern as you can see if its locked or not.
engine light has been known to come and go on long journeys usually hanging around for a week before turning itself off! (faulty sensor)
first gear is noisyier
car feels like its lost 10 of the horsepower since ive gotten possession of it! all in all not bad
interior center panel where the handbrake is the only part of the interior that rattles if your leg bumps against it!
all in all car is as solid as a rock and despite all the negative press about gearboxes on golfs mine is probably one of the best examples out there.
drive em well, drive em fast but dont acellerate like its a drag race and dont pull wheelspins,and they should last another 10 years.