Complete noob with lots of noob-ish questions!

LolNoob

Hello All,

I'm new to the world of motorbikes and have a few questions/queries that I'd appreciate someone helping me out with. I've read quite a few threads here recently and have picked up quite a bit of information, so some questions are just information seeking confirmation as I'd like to get going with the process of getting on 2 wheels.

All help appreciated!

License:

I'm 24 and currently hold a full Irish drivers license and have been insured with Quinn Direct for almost 4 years at this stage, without crashes. To start with, I've to go do the theory test to obtain an A learners permit, which I'll keep for 6 months. This test should be done before December 6th so I don't have to go through the process of 16 mandatory lessons, so I hope to get it done in mid November.

Is all the above correct?

Insurance:

I've been with Quinn Insurance for 4 years and have 4 years no claim bonus as a result. Quinn are giving competitive quotes, I was wondering if someone would know whether having a current car policy with them will get me a discount on a bike premium, and if my car no-claims bonus will further this discount?

I realise I could ring and ask them, but I figured there's a lot of experienced people here who might be able to speak from this experience, especially if they managed to force the issue themselves and obtained cheaper insurance as a result

Bike:

I've €1,500 to spend on the bike itself and am at a loss of what to get! I had my mind set on a used CBR125, however after reading here I believe it's better to get >250cc for license purposes. I'd like to eventually be able to have a bigger bike so from what I've read, it's better I go bigger than 125 now. I like the racer looking bikes with fairings although I'm open to half-faired or whatever. Not really into fully naked bikes or motocross-ish bikes.

Can anyone suggest what bike to look for? I'd like to factor the cost of getting the bike restricted, where applicable, into that €1,500 figure although I could stretch to €1,750 if something really took my fancy I suppose.

It'd mainly be for commuting in and out of the city center and the Dublin suburbs although I'm sure it'd get a lot more use than that.

I don't plan on buying a bike until after January 2011, so the depreciation in value between then and now (as well as cash in hand discounts) could be factored into any quotes people could recommend.

Would really appreciate all help with regards to this subject in particular! I see loads of bikes I'd love, particularly in the "post your bike" thread, but I also want to keep the insurance reasonable (monthly).

Gear:

Recommendations on where to look for gear would be appreciated. Have been looking online at bikeworld and bikegear but both don't seem to show much stock online nevermind the rough cost of it.

Lessons:

How many lessons would one recommend before heading off on the roads by yourself? I took to driving a car like a duck to water and was confident in the car by myself after 3 or so lessons, would this be similar with a bike? Or once I get the learners permit would it be better to just start driving about locally by myself to get the hang of it?

I've driven bikes with gears before and haven't had an issue with it. The mechanics would be fine to me, it's more things like filtering through traffic and other nuances that would be where I'd be pushing to learn?

General Qs:

Say you drive into the city center, do you use a lock on your bike or do you just rely on the steering locks? I almost never see bikes with locks on them so would presume most just rely on the latter.

Are you happy just leaving them on their stands in public-ish areas? What about scum pushing them over? How likely is that to happen?

If you drive down to somewhere like Dundrum town center, do you go through the barriers and take a ticket, then end up paying for parking or how do bike riders deal with this? What is expected of them?

I think that's all the questions I have right now, but I'm sure I'll have more as time comes and again would appreciate any help in those matters.

Thanks in advance for all answers to the above.

Cheers.

LolNoob

Just to add, and I added it in the original post, I'm 24.

jayok

Ok, here's my 2c:

License
Yes, you'll need to get your Learner's Permit by 6th December (which includes) the Theory Test to bypass the training requirement. However, I strongly recommend you get professional training regardless.

Insurance
Can speak for Quinn, but I am with Aon and they give a discount because I have a car too. A simple call to Quinn will clarify this.

Bike
To qualify for the full A test you will need to present yourself on a bike that is greater than 125cc. Don't go mad spending money at this point and don't get something you can't afford to drop as you will make mistakes as you learn. Personally, I used to drive a Burgman 400 normally (maxi scooter) but I would have a restricted license if I done my test on it (automatic). So I bought a Suzuki Marauder 250cc for six weeks to do my test on - it cost me €1,200. After the test I sold it on for €1,000. €200 for six weeks rental.

The Marauder was simple to ride, cheap to run and was very stable at low speed. Once the test was done I went back to my Burman before buying a Deauville 700.

The Marauder is also classed as a Grade 2 bike for insurance purposes. As such it's pretty cheap to insure.

Gear
First decide what gear you want - leathers or fabric. That's half the battle, I personally prefer fabric and specifically the brand Frank Thomas. But each to their own. You'll need gloves and boots. Finally, get a proper reputable helmet that is confortable. The most expensive isn't the best. As an idea of costs:

My helmet (Shark)€280
My Jacket (Frank Thomas): €160
My trousers (Frank Thomas): €95
My boots (Dainse): €220
My Gloves (??): €40
High-Vis Vest: €10

Total Gear cost: €805

Yes, it will cost that much to start right. Leathers will cost more I'd imagine.


Lessons
I'd recommend at least 10 hours. I booked the Silver Star Rider course with Fingal Co Co. It cost €320 on the instructors bike and was conducted as two 5 hours sessions. I learned so much from a professional instructor. Like you I took to the whole clutch gear thing easily, but moving the machine is easy, its observation skills and techniques that need to be shown. Unlike cars, bikes can be very unforgiving if you make a mistake. Your instructor will show you the pitfalls of typical driving and explain thing properly. Even now, though I've my full license, I am off to book more lessons.

General
My bike is too heavy to lift by one person, so I simply use a disc lock to prevent it from being rolled away. With the Marauder I used a chain and chained to you a tree, pole, etc.

Yes, I am happy to leave it on its stand in public areas. Of course they could be pushed over, but you'll learn to park it in low people traffic spots. That is where the bike is not in the way of people passing, buggies, etc.

Sometimes I take a ticket in Dundrum sometimes I park on the pavement. You will find with a bike provided you haven't parked in a spot that is in people's was or in an obvious spot then people (including Gardai) will leave you alone.

martydunf

Quinn will give you a discount on a bike policy if you have a car poilcy with them already, however you NCB earned through your car policy is not taken into account for your bike poilcy. You start from zero experience.

To give you an idea, I got quoted €750 on a Bandit 600 S, and Im 22 with 0 riding experience, so you should have no problem getting a quote for a 600cc bike as long as its not too sporty, my bike is half faired BTW.
Although its up to you to make sure the bike is resticted to comply with your licence restriction (i.e. <33bhp)

LolNoob

Cheers guys, very helpful responses!

I've been browsing through bikes lately and it seems for <2,000 one can pick up a Suzuki bandit 600 w/ factory restrictions, honda bros 400, yamaha fazer 600 etc. Personally I really like the look of the bandits and from what I've read they're perfect for learning on and once the two years is done you have a fast, reliable 600cc bike.

E320 for the 10 hours of lessons seems like a really good deal too. Will look into a similar package near my area (Ballinteer).

Question regarding gear:

What are people's opinions on buying used jackets and pants? I'd buy a new helmet, gloves a boots myself but I'd personally be inclined to believe that as long as the gear hasn't been through a crash (which should be apparent upon inspection), it should be safe to buy? Would I be right in thinking that?

Question about bikes in general:

While browsing used bikes I see an awful lot of bikes from the 90s with reasonably low mileage, how come these are still in circulation? With a car, most wouldn't really dream of selling a 91 or 93, however there seem to be loads of these bikes for sale, again with reasonable mileage. Are these a viable choice? While browsing I've been looking at bikes reg'd after 2000, am I missing out on value by doing so?

Also, is it a good idea to be checking out the used UK market?

With cars, you can ask for a copy of the CarTel documents proving the car is clean, is there an equivilant with bikes?

Thanks again!

Beruthiel

LolNoob
Don't skimp on gear.
Get a good helmet and make sure it's a good, snug fit. I learned the hard way what a loose helmet can do.
Good, steal toe capped boots are a must. (They saved my toes) As are good leggings, jacket and gloves.
You'll be glad you have them when the black frost hits in February.

If the used jacket and leggings are in good shape, I don't see a problem.

Oh, and remember, rule no. 1 when driving a bike, "All other drivers are idiots"

MikeC101

LolNoob wrote: »

While browsing used bikes I see an awful lot of bikes from the 90s with reasonably low mileage, how come these are still in circulation? With a car, most wouldn't really dream of selling a 91 or 93, however there seem to be loads of these bikes for sale, again with reasonable mileage. Are these a viable choice? While browsing I've been looking at bikes reg'd after 2000, am I missing out on value by doing so?

People buy bikes for different reasons than they do cars - so lots of bikes out there bought as a toy / during a mid life crisis / for weekend use, and ended up stored in a garage for years, or had very little use.

Certainly a viable choice, but make sure and do your research on whether parts are easily available, flaws that model might have or whatever (same as you'd do for any bike really, but with more emphasis on availability of spares), so you don't end up caught out if something goes in it.

Oh and for the gear, the Birmingham bike show is coming up soon (Nov 28th to Dec 5th?). You could get cheap flights over, the show is on literally beside the airport, and get kitted out at great value, always some fantastic deals there. Plus get to sit on all those lovely shiney new bikes!

EGOSHEA

OP, you don't say where you're from in the country. However, if you can make it up to Dublin, Cotters is a great place to get some decent quality bargains. One of the guys there (Simon, I think) is very open to haggling a bit and you could easily get decked out (with stuff that isn't cheap rubbish either) for about 500 euro or less. For example (with myself):

Shark helmet = 100, Ducchini jacket = 40 (maybe go for something a bit pricier than this), Alpine Stars boots = 80 euro - usually 200 or thereabouts), and Richa supersport gloves = 40 euro. Total = 260 euro! Good pair of pants includedwould have still been less than 400 euro.

martydunf

LolNoob wrote: »

Cheers guys, very helpful responses!

I've been browsing through bikes lately and it seems for <2,000 one can pick up a Suzuki bandit 600 w/ factory restrictions, honda bros 400, yamaha fazer 600 etc. Personally I really like the look of the bandits and from what I've read they're perfect for learning on and once the two years is done you have a fast, reliable 600cc bike.

I have a Banit 600 and as my first bike I couldnt be happier with it. Theres also the Yamaha equivelent, the Fazer, but I just wasnt gone on the looks of it, and as you said once the restictor comes out of it it will be like a new bike all over again!:D

The Bandit is also meant to be an ideal bike to do the test on as it has a small-ish turning circle (handy for the U turn in the test) plus it is a very easy bike to ride, although maybe a bit heavy but that only applies when your stationary, you wont notice it when your moving.

antiskeptic

LolNoob wrote: »

I've been browsing through bikes lately and it seems for <2,000 one can pick up a Suzuki bandit 600 w/ factory restrictions, honda bros 400, yamaha fazer 600 etc. Personally I really like the look of the bandits and from what I've read they're perfect for learning on and once the two years is done you have a fast, reliable 600cc bike.

Of the two, I'd go for the Fazer. Iirc, the unrestricted version had bags more power than the Bandit. Bulletproof too.

What are people's opinions on buying used jackets and pants? I'd buy a new helmet, gloves a boots myself but I'd personally be inclined to believe that as long as the gear hasn't been through a crash (which should be apparent upon inspection), it should be safe to buy? Would I be right in thinking that?

It'd be fine. I'd go for the best quality I could - and so secondhand-good would be a better option than new-less-good. Good gear will keep the rain out - meaning that you're putting on dry gear when going home, not gear that has had the morning rain soak through during the day.

Make sure when buying boots that they are labelled waterproof. It's amazing to think that anyone would sell anything else in Ireland but it's a (costly) mistake I made. AlpineStars I've found brilliant - they maintain their ability to keep the water out (glove/boot)

While browsing used bikes I see an awful lot of bikes from the 90s with reasonably low mileage, how come these are still in circulation? With a car, most wouldn't really dream of selling a 91 or 93, however there seem to be loads of these bikes for sale, again with reasonable mileage. Are these a viable choice? While browsing I've been looking at bikes reg'd after 2000, am I missing out on value by doing so?

Ofttimes, a bike is a second vehicle so doesn't get the mileage racked up the same way a car does - the years will pass at the same rate though. Then again, a bike at 50,000 miles will generally be far tattier than a car with similar mileage. So long as it's been well looked after (eg: garaged) a nineties bike should be no problem.

KamiKazi

EGOSHEA wrote: »

OP, you don't say where you're from in the country. However, if you can make it up to Dublin, Cotters is a great place to get some decent quality bargains. One of the guys there (Simon, I think) is very open to haggling a bit and you could easily get decked out (with stuff that isn't cheap rubbish either) for about 500 euro or less. For example (with myself):

Shark helmet = 100, Ducchini jacket = 40 (maybe go for something a bit pricier than this), Alpine Stars boots = 80 euro - usually 200 or thereabouts), and Richa supersport gloves = 40 euro. Total = 260 euro! Good pair of pants includedwould have still been less than 400 euro.

+1 for this.

I picked up a Shark RSR2 for €160 when I started out

LolNoob

Cheers for all the advice guys and girls, really appreciated. I'm based in Dublin, that deal mentioned by jayok with Fingal CoCo for e320 for lessons sounds extremely good compared to some of the prices I've seen in browsing, is there anything anyone knows of that compares on the southside or would I be best off just taking the time to head out there for the 2x5 hour blocks?

Also, I found this
http://www.bikebuyersguide.ie/Used-Bikes-For-Sale-Ireland/Suzuki/GS/Dublin/48210

Comes with a full set of gear and a lock, all made by Nitro. Is this too good to be true? It looks like an excellent deal from my point of view but then I'm new. 18k on the clock gives the impression that it's been boxed up a lot so how come it's so "well" priced?

I'd almost go down tomorrow and pay for it if I knew I wouldn't be screwed

Thanks again for the advice.

LolNoob

Hmm, just noticed that it's a private seller and not a dealer so the gear that comes with it might not be the proper size. hrmm....

KamiKazi

Don't use a second hand helmet whatever you do.

cantdecide

Beruthiel wrote: »

...steal toe capped boots are a must....

I was always of the impression that the reckoning on steel toe cap boots was that they often did more damage than good in an accident???


OP, the GS is a cool bike but you know you'll always be able to shift a Bandit on again later. The only advice I can give on the bike itself is that one for €1,000 is often to be a tub of crap. A one dealer said to me, "unlike cars which usually depreciate down €0, if they're serviceable, a bike will never be worth less than a grand no matter how bad it really is".

Buy the best example of whatever bike you take a fancy to. Don't be afraid of a private sale. In fact, if I were spending that kind of money, I generally wouldn't be bothering looking in dealers at all. Just make sure you get the bike checked over professionally and thoroughly.

I presume you've been looking on DoneDeal.ie- that's where virtually all bikes are advertised these days.

Personally, I started about 2 and 1/2 years ago on a restricted Bandit 600 (I was 26 at the time and quinn wouldn't touch me with 8 yrs no claims, mainly with them:rolleyes:). AON gave me a quote of €600 provided I got a Grade 2 assessment in advance. As a novice, I spent about €400 on lessons (which was definitely expensive), comprising of a full day of intensive training on a school bike, followed by a half day's "practise" with them and got my grade 2, which was absolutely invaluable to my riding. After about 5 months, I sold the Bandit and got my restricted GSX1400 which I still have aswell as my blackbird.

LolNoob

KamiKazi wrote: »

Don't use a second hand helmet whatever you do.

Yeah, one thing I've been adamant about is regardless of how I source my gear when the time comes, I'm 100% buying a new helmet. It's cleaner and the peace of mind that comes with it would be worth the extra money I think.

cantdecide wrote: »

I was always of the impression that the reckoning on steel toe cap boots was that they often did more damage than good in an accident???


OP, the GS is a cool bike but you know you'll always be able to shift a Bandit on again later. The only advice I can give on the bike itself is that one for €1,000 is often to be a tub of crap. A one dealer said to me, "unlike cars which usually depreciate down €0, if they're serviceable, a bike will never be worth less than a grand no matter how bad it really is".

Buy the best example of whatever bike you take a fancy to. Don't be afraid of a private sale. In fact, if I were spending that kind of money, I generally wouldn't be bothering looking in dealers at all. Just make sure you get the bike checked over professionally and thoroughly.

I presume you've been looking on DoneDeal.ie- that's where virtually all bikes are advertised these days.

Personally, I started about 2 and 1/2 years ago on a restricted Bandit 600 (I was 26 at the time and quinn wouldn't touch me with 8 yrs no claims, mainly with them:rolleyes:). AON gave me a quote of €600 provided I got a Grade 2 assessment in advance. As a novice, I spent about €400 on lessons (which was definitely expensive), comprising of a full day of intensive training on a school bike, followed by a half day's "practise" with them and got my grade 2, which was absolutely invaluable to my riding. After about 5 months, I sold the Bandit and got my restricted GSX1400 which I still have aswell as my blackbird.

I've been browsing donedeal, adverts and bike buyers guide mainly.

My heart is pretty much set on a Bandit 600S at this stage. I've read so many good things about them and suzuki in general over the last while that in terms of value for money I think it's pretty close between the Bandit and a Honda, however from what I've seen the CBR600s are usually older with more mileage for the same price and a lot of the used bandits available come restricted.

I'm a college student so I'm not really in the position to just pick up a learner bike for a grand or so, then flop it when I pass my test and put another few grand with it for something nicer. I think, from everything I've been reading and looking at, the Bandit is the best option all things considered and when I come out of college in 2.5 years I'll hopefully be able to emigrate and pick up an unrestricted bike but with loads of riding experience behind me or just get the restrictors taken off it then:)

My plan as of the moment is to get the theory test done and get the A learners permit before December 6th and between then and February do the Silver Star course with Fingal CoCo as it's extremely good value for money from what I can see, so should be worth the drive out to Blanch for it. There doesn't seem to be anything of a comparable price around Ballinteer/Dundrum and I've read very good reviews of the Silver Star course over the last few days also.

Then in February I'll buy a Bandit and pay a lump sum off the insurance, book the test and a Quinn assessment so mid-way through the insurance year I'll hopefully pass the test, get the assessment and see my insurance drop substantially. Between now and then I'll pick up gear so I'll be all good to go for the Spring.

I think that pretty much sounds like the right idea?

cantdecide

Well, don't forget you can get your assessment in advance like I did. That'll definitely grease the wheels and give you options you won't otherwise have. It's the same assessment for Quinn and aon aswell. If you end up with AON or Quinn, they'll let you pay insurance on the drip which might help things too.

Spudmonkey

Hey LolNoob - my 2c, in the order in which I did it.

License: Had my provisional for 4 years before I eventually got a bike. Anyway from what I know, the new regulations (i.e. number of lessons) to be introduced on December 6th is only for people who get their provisional after this date. I don't think you have to have your test done before this date although I am open to correction on this. Regarding the theory test, yes you will need to do this if you haven't done it already for the bike. Best off to ask them in the motortax office if you need to or not.

Insurance: Got mine with AON, they seemed to be the most competitive but this was probably cause I already had the car insurance with them and I've always found them easy to deal with. Insurance was pricey enough (€600) especially for a 125cc. Then again the bike I have is lively enough.

Bike: It is true that if you are going for an A license you will need 250 or bigger. But don't let this limit you in what you want to get. I bought a honda xr125 from meskells motorcycles which was perfect for what I wanted; something small, lively, and very cheap to run. This did mean I would be stuck for the test but they allowed me to borrow a bike which enabled me to sit the test. I.e. get the bike you want to get, if it's a 125cc, get a 125cc. If it's a 600cc, get a 600cc and get it restricted. Whatever you get, make sure you check with the insurance company first.

Gear: Agree with the helmet. And get never get one second hand. Buy a new one. Also get a good back protector. This just goes on underneath the jacket and you can pick one up for about €70.

Lessons: This really depends on the kind of person you are and also what ability you feel you have. I'd consider myself a fairly passive driver and would not get overly excited on the road. I've also been driving a car for years. Saying that a bike is a different kettle of fish and I did get several lessons before the test just to get advice on things you don't appreciate when driving cars, i.e like road positioning. After this practice makes perfect. You need to spend a lot of time driving to develop your own style and get confident in the handling of the bike. Frankly I'd leave the filtering in and out through traffic for a while. I'd consider you needing a lot of experience before you tackle this.

General Qs: I tend to rely on the steering lock for the most part. Then again I leave my bike in enclosed parking spaces. If you don't have the luxury of this then I'd buy a decent lock and tie it to a fence or post.

Finally as one poster said, assume all other drivers are idiots. You have to be much more vigilant on the bike than you are in the car cause you have much less protection so always drive defensively. Happy driving!!!

LolNoob

Thanks again guys

Cantdecide, how did you get a bike to do the assessment on? i.e did you borrow it from a friend or rent it? And did you do the assessment before your full license test?

Cheers Spudmonkey, looking into spine protectors as I type this

Am pretty set on getting the 600S as my first bike now. Won't be until February though! Decent amount of time to get training and the like in first though, so I'm ready to hit the roads when the sun starts shining again

cantdecide

LolNoob wrote: »

...Cantdecide, how did you get a bike to do the assessment on?....And did you do the assessment before your full license test?...

Maybe you missed it...

As a novice, I spent about €400 on lessons (which was definitely expensive), comprising of a full day of intensive training on a school bike, followed by a half day's "practise" with them and got my grade 2, which was absolutely invaluable to my riding. After about 5 months, I sold the Bandit and got my restricted GSX1400 which I still have aswell as my blackbird.

By "school bike" I meant my instructor has a fleet of learner legal bikes. All i needed was money and a learner's permit, he supplied everything else including gear etc. I did my first day on a CBF250 and my day's practise on my instrutors factory-restricted transalp 650. I had my grade 2 done before I went for my insurance on my own bandit.

When I got my own bike on the road after, I did one pre-test lesson with the same instructor (followed by a ton of practise on my own) and passed the test in my seventh month of driving.

My point is that you can move these things along briskly if you want to.

CrazyRabbit

EGOSHEA wrote: »

OP, you don't say where you're from in the country. However, if you can make it up to Dublin, Cotters is a great place to get some decent quality bargains. One of the guys there (Simon, I think) is very open to haggling a bit and you could easily get decked out (with stuff that isn't cheap rubbish either) for about 500 euro or less. For example (with myself):

Shark helmet = 100, Ducchini jacket = 40 (maybe go for something a bit pricier than this), Alpine Stars boots = 80 euro - usually 200 or thereabouts), and Richa supersport gloves = 40 euro. Total = 260 euro! Good pair of pants includedwould have still been less than 400 euro.

+1 for Cotters. Great deals, although it is very cramped in the shop and trying to find specific sizes/brands etc can be a bit hard. The first time I bought a few things there, the owner gave me a €70 discount. Really nice. Going back for a new lid shortly.

dl

I agree that Cotters is well worth a visit before buying any gear, got completely togged out last year with a generous discount... returned this summer & ordered a leather jacket for €300, same jackets were retailing for £300+ in the UK, a 15% saving at the time!

Like MikeC101 I'd also recommend the bike show in Birmingham, a great day out and lots of bargains to be had... plus flights are available from €8 each way with Ryanair at the mo, so an inexpensive trip if even just to browse!

LolNoob

Cheers guys

Cantdecide: Am going to go along the same path and get the assessment done as soon after doing the course of lessons as possible.

Going to check out Cotters for a lid at the least, probably gloves or boots too. The rest will be used:)

Just booked my AM theory test, doing it on November 11th so am looking forward to getting it and getting my A learners permit before December 6th!

P.C.

LolNoob wrote: »

Going to check out Cotters for a lid at the least, probably gloves or boots too. The rest will be used:)

Just booked my AM theory test, doing it on November 11th so am looking forward to getting it and getting my A learners permit before December 6th!

Someone told me that Cotters are having a sale this Saturday. Might be worth a visit.

Good luck with the test.

LolNoob

Q: When on a provisional license, is one required to display L plates all the time? I don't see any around, but I have seen them in pictures...

cantdecide

L Tabbard.

eurofoxy

howdy folks in the same position myself. about to start rider training but unfortunately i am studying abroad and will not be home till xmas so will have to do the 16 hours minimum but thats not really a problem as i have planned to get at least that amount.

My only problem is that i am living abroad and will not be able to ride as the learners permit/licence is only valid in ireland .
So that means that when ever i can fly home cheaply with ryanair i can go home do a few hours of lessons, till i can take the test.

I imagine i wont have much of a problem as i have taken various licences and took to them fairly quickly( ppl both fixed and non-fixed, and currently studying for ATC in the netherlands).
The problem willl be that i will have to take my test with maybe only 30/40 odd hours on the bike but they will all be hours under instruction so not really any chance of picking up bad habits.
What do ya reckon my chances of passing would be?

I have been looking at the x-lite 702 helmets as i can afford a decent helmet and i was told by a wise man that i should buy a helmet of equal or greater value than my own head, so i wont be buying the most expensive but i do want a top class helmet regardless of the price.

Another question regarding the theory test, the new format this year, i have a full class b licence and want to add a motorcycle, is the test only on the motorcycle questions or are there car questions included in the motorcycle test?

Spudmonkey

eurofoxy wrote: »

I imagine i wont have much of a problem as i have taken various licences and took to them fairly quickly( ppl both fixed and non-fixed, and currently studying for ATC in the netherlands).
The problem willl be that i will have to take my test with maybe only 30/40 odd hours on the bike but they will all be hours under instruction so not really any chance of picking up bad habits.
What do ya reckon my chances of passing would be?

30/40 hours of instruction is going to be very very expensive. You can get lessons but you really need to be able to borrow a bike and do the routes in your own time. It's mainly just about practice.

Another question regarding the theory test, the new format this year, i have a full class b licence and want to add a motorcycle, is the test only on the motorcycle questions or are there car questions included in the motorcycle test?

There are several sections to the theory test. A general section which covers general rules of the road, signs etc which is common to all licenses and another section specifically for the bike. You will need to cover both of these.

GoodGuinness

eurofoxy wrote: »

Another question regarding the theory test, the new format this year, i have a full class b licence and want to add a motorcycle, is the test only on the motorcycle questions or are there car questions included in the motorcycle test?

As stated above, there will be a few questions specifically relating to motorcycles and the other generic "Rules of the road" questions. I just completed my theory test for class "A" a couple of weeks ago, and having been driving on a full B licence for the past 20 odd years, I can say I would have failed big-style, only for I got a copy of the theory test handbook and stuided all the relevant questions. You can know the rules of the road inside-out, but there's a difference in knowing the right answer, and knowing the answer they want...

eurofoxy

Spudmonkey wrote: »

30/40 hours of instruction is going to be very very expensive. You can get lessons but you really need to be able to borrow a bike and do the routes in your own time. It's mainly just about practice.

Unfortunately this is the only real alternative, as i will not be able to get back to ireland much in the next few months so its pointless buying a bike and having it sit somewhere, and also i dont have anywhere i could store a bike as my family in ireland is quite small and all of them are elderly.
The cost is not so much the factor its the chances of passing a test on such little experience that i have the problem with as i dont want to have to do a second test as then it starts to become even more expensive.

Spudmonkey wrote: »

There are several sections to the theory test. A general section which covers general rules of the road, signs etc which is common to all licenses and another section specifically for the bike. You will need to cover both of these.

Cheers for that it clears it up a bit was afraid i would have to do the whole book almost. And its a bit of a joke that they dont produce the cd to work on a mac. most of the students in my uni have macs me included so i have to use the book and cd.


Also i just bought a x-lite helmet, its the 701, i liked it as the communication on it is impressive but also i think its a good helmet. any ideas opinions on the x-lite helmets.
I have some revitt gear pant jacket has anyone any bad experience with the brand?

Cheers for the replies its very much appreciated as to be quite honest its extremely daunting to see all the different products etc in the store

LolNoob

How do people rate the BMW F650 funduro? I've seen a few of them year 2000+ with decently low miles for less than €2k, which is pretty on budget, and from seeing them around town they look like pretty sweet bikes to ride.

Also considering a deauville now as it looks pretty comfortable to ride around on too. Lots of options, it would appear !

goldie fish

LolNoob wrote: »

How do people rate the BMW F650 funduro? I've seen a few of them year 2000+ with decently low miles for less than €2k, which is pretty on budget, and from seeing them around town they look like pretty sweet bikes to ride.

Also considering a deauville now as it looks pretty comfortable to ride around on too. Lots of options, it would appear !

The great thing about the F650(they dropped the "funduro" tag soon after it was launched) is it isn't a traditional BMW overpriced complicated tank.
The engine is by Rotax, It has a chain drive, and is reasonably priced, and a great all rounder. Before KTM took over, a version of it was winning the Dakar Rally. Its only disadvantage is it is a chain drive.
For "mile munching" a shaft is superior, which brings us the the Deauville. Shaft drive, built in luggage, and depending on the year of manufacture, either an optional touring screen, or a height ajustable one. The deauville seat is unmatched too. You will need to refuel long before your arse goes numb(300km out of a tank to reserve).

LolNoob

goldie fish wrote: »

The great thing about the F650(they dropped the "funduro" tag soon after it was launched) is it isn't a traditional BMW overpriced complicated tank.
The engine is by Rotax, It has a chain drive, and is reasonably priced, and a great all rounder. Before KTM took over, a version of it was winning the Dakar Rally. Its only disadvantage is it is a chain drive.
For "mile munching" a shaft is superior, which brings us the the Deauville. Shaft drive, built in luggage, and depending on the year of manufacture, either an optional touring screen, or a height ajustable one. The deauville seat is unmatched too. You will need to refuel long before your arse goes numb(300km out of a tank to reserve).

Yeah I'm going to check out Deauville's in early 2011 when looking for bikes. I think it'll be a tossup between a bandit and a deauville. Two completely different bikes but...! Sat drooling over a bandit today so it'll be difficult.

I've got a really, really stupid question (for someone who has been on the road for almost 8 years now) that I'm almost ashamed to ask but since I've always driven a car it's never been a huge concern.

If I get third party, fire and theft insurance and end up in an accident that is my fault, even slipping while doing some speed and end up breaking my leg or hospitalising myself, who foots the health bill?

KamiKazi

LolNoob wrote: »

If I get third party, fire and theft insurance and end up in an accident that is my fault, even slipping while doing some speed and end up breaking my leg or hospitalising myself, who foots the health bill?

You.

jayok

KamiKazi wrote: »

You.

Correct - even if you have fully comp insurance you will still have to pay your own bill. A common misconception is that full-comp covers the driver in the event it his/her fault, it does not it only covers the machine (applies to both cars and bikes)

KamiKazi

jayok wrote: »

Correct - even if you have fully comp insurance you will still have to pay your own bill. A common misconception is that full-comp covers the driver in the event it his/her fault, it does not it only covers the machine (applies to both cars and bikes)

Carole Nash have helmet & leathers cover, website doesn't say anything about liability. Something to look into though.

LolNoob

Interesting, I never knew that if you were fully comp (in a car aswell I presume) and you caused the accident, you're still liable for your own medical bills. Would health insurance cover such accidents or how indeed does one go about paying for procedures that could run into the tens of thousands of euros?

It's something I've never had to deal with. So really, the only difference between fully comp on a bike and TPFT is that if you cause a crash, full comp will fix or replace your bike?

jayok

LolNoob wrote: »

Interesting, I never knew that if you were fully comp (in a car aswell I presume) and you caused the accident, you're still liable for your own medical bills. Would health insurance cover such accidents or how indeed does one go about paying for procedures that could run into the tens of thousands of euros?

Generally speaking, health insurance will cover medical bills you incur as a result of personal injury, no matter how obtained, e.g. playing football, riding a bike, etc. If you need a surgery that cost €€€ the health insurance may cover it if you have the right level. What it won't cover is loss of earnings, if you are out of work for six months, etc.

LolNoob wrote: »

It's something I've never had to deal with. So really, the only difference between fully comp on a bike and TPFT is that if you cause a crash, full comp will fix or replace your bike?

Correct, same a car policies. Its to avoid the situation of people driving with the mentality no matter what happens insurance money will bail me out. There's a particular name on this type of moral hazard, I cannot recall.

LolNoob

jayok wrote: »

Generally speaking, health insurance will cover medical bills you incur as a result of personal injury, no matter how obtained, e.g. playing football, riding a bike, etc. If you need a surgery that cost €€€ the health insurance may cover it if you have the right level. What it won't cover is loss of earnings, if you are out of work for six months, etc.



Correct, same a car policies. Its to avoid the situation of people driving with the mentality no matter what happens insurance money will bail me out. There's a particular name on this type of moral hazard, I cannot recall.

Sound, that all makes sense. Quite thankfully too, as fully comp is almost double the price for year one on the same bike.

New Q:

What's the situation with regards to getting bikes from the UK? I've been looking at used bikes online in the UK and they're all really, really well priced compared to their Irish counterparts but additionally all have valid MOT's showing they're at least in good running condition. How does one go about importing one and what fees are you subject to? I suppose you've to change the regs and pay road tax, is that it and how much does that come to?

cantdecide

https://www.ros.ie/VRTEnquiryServlet/showBikeCalculator

Bike VRT is based only on CCs and age so it's very straight forward.

Travel expenses, VRT and road tax. The NCT people have recently taken over VRT so I can't tell you if it's any trickier now.

All you have to do is choose your bike, get the usual HPI checks, have it looked over etc. Bring the V5 (UK reg document) back with you. Contact the NCT and book a date, present the bike and paperwork and Bob's your uncle.

It may be harder to justify the expense and hassle if it's a cheaper bike you're after. I've had three bikes and they're all ex-UK same as a huge proportion of bikes in Ireland. Once you start travelling to the UK for vehicles, you think nothing of it.

eurofoxy

sorry for the stupid question, but when i get my licence and its restricted for 2 years, the bike i want will ned a restrictor fitted, if its a factory fitted restriction, can it be taken off after the 2 years, also if its fitted by the garage can that be taken off after the 2 years is up..

Many thanks for the replies...

KamiKazi

Both can be taken off when needed.

eurofoxy

thats what i was thinking, but the local idiot in the honda garage had other ideas and had me all confused, as from his explaination was that it was both electronically and mechanically restricted, and both were permanent fixtures and that is why there are so many restricted bikes for sale...

It made a bit of sense to me this morning.
but still i was a potential customer at the garage and due to his lack of knowledge i will not buy from then...

Cheers for the response by the way...

KamiKazi

eurofoxy wrote: »

thats what i was thinking, but the local idiot in the honda garage had other ideas and had me all confused, as from his explaination was that it was both electronically and mechanically restricted, and both were permanent fixtures and that is why there are so many restricted bikes for sale...

They are, but you just remove the throttle stop and replace the restricted ECU with a full power one.

jameshayes

eurofoxy wrote: »

thats what i was thinking, but the local idiot in the honda garage had other ideas and had me all confused, as from his explaination was that it was both electronically and mechanically restricted, and both were permanent fixtures and that is why there are so many restricted bikes for sale...

KamiKazi wrote: »

They are, but you just remove the throttle stop and replace the restricted ECU with a full power one.

but on a honda it's more complicated because you have to replace the ECU & the HISS system inc. the ignition etc etc - could cost ~1000 quid...

KamiKazi

jameshayes wrote: »

but on a honda it's more complicated because you have to replace the ECU & the HISS system inc. the ignition etc etc - could cost ~1000 quid...

I never said it was cheap :P

eurofoxy

hey guys anyone want to recommend a good back protector, my jacket is a revit raptor, was advised to get some sort of back protection and to get better protectors for my knees...

Any recommendations?

Dorsanty

Insert back protectors are rubbish when compared to separate full length protectors. I personally go with, http://www.dainese.com/eu_en/motorbike/wave-12-air.html?gender=2&cat=41&subcat=42

Though I hate that Dainese can't make the velcro strap across the waist last more than 1 year's worth of use. I'm on my second one and both had that issue.

eurofoxy

Dorsanty wrote: »

Insert back protectors are rubbish when compared to separate full length protectors. I personally go with, http://www.dainese.com/eu_en/motorbike/wave-12-air.html?gender=2&cat=41&subcat=42

Though I hate that Dainese can't make the velcro strap across the waist last more than 1 year's worth of use. I'm on my second one and both had that issue.

that looks the dogs.... but how about knee support...thing is i am really sensitive about my knees as i had a really bad and complicated break playing rugby when i was younger so i know whats its like to do 18 months on crutches etc..and would like to do my best to prevent any type of breakage in that area i know if its going to happen its going to happen but its the minor fall bad break i would like to avoid by just simply having some decent knee protection.

Dorsanty

eurofoxy wrote: »

that looks the dogs.... but how about knee support...thing is i am really sensitive about my knees as i had a really bad and complicated break playing rugby when i was younger so i know whats its like to do 18 months on crutches etc..and would like to do my best to prevent any type of breakage in that area i know if its going to happen its going to happen but its the minor fall bad break i would like to avoid by just simply having some decent knee protection.

I'd like to know more about hip and leg protection myself. I just have standard trousers with ass/hip padding and basic armor for knee and shin. I have seen some armor for the hips but no real upgrades over the standard armor for legs and knees.

eurofoxy

My problem with the hip and knee protectors are they seem a bit too soft to absorb or deflect a good bang, was looking at the alpinestars protectors they look decent, but dont know what kind of knee protector is what i am after, as its a protector rather than sliders which are different beast altogether...