Replacement mains capacitor for Ariston AF1083T washing machine?

TM

Hi there

I think that the mains (RF interference suppressor or other filtering?) capacitor for my Ariston AF1083T washing machine is faulty. At least I used a phase tester to check that power was going into it but not coming out. I've had a look at some of the appliance spare parts sites but I'm confused because many of them carry universal capacitors rated 10/11/16 etc. uF while mine has the following on the casing - verbatim other than where I translated "micro" to "u" etc.

Procond Elettronica
ZEM
411.10.5033
SH 0.47uF+/-10%(X2)+
2x0.01uF(Y)+2x0.5mH+0.68MOhms
250V~ - 16A/40 degrees C
HPF 25/085/21

Some other symbols and a schematic of the circuit.

I'd greatly appreciate any advice anybody has on how to choose a suitable replacement part. Do I have to precisely match a replacement part to the spec above? Also - if anybody wants to explain the spec above and more about the function of the part I'd be interested but the main thing is getting the machine working again!

Thanks a lot

Cheers
TM

Update: by the way ... the capacitor in my machine has 5 connectors (labelled U1, U3, L2, N4 and earth) - 2 each for live and neutral "in" and "out" and one for earth but I see that many of the "universal" capacitors seem to omit the earth. Does that matter?

knighted_1

to start with ,a phase tester is no use to test a capacitor - you need a multimeter or voltage tester (metered)

post the symtoms of the machine fault

TM

Thanks knighted_1.

The symptoms are simple - when I switch it on nothing happens at all - i.e. the machine doesn't even start filling.

I have a multimeter but don't really know how to use that to test this. The wiring of the capacitor is as follows:

U1: neutral to the machine innards
L2: live from mains
U3: live to machine innards
N4: neutral from mains
Earth

For what it's worth this is the exact part in question:

http://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/Washing+Machine+Parts/Ariston/Ariston+Capacitors/C00043435+-+Indesit+%252526+Ariston+Washer+%252526+Wash+Dryer+Suppressor.html

Cheers
TM

G.MAN

i think you could be going down the wrong route with the capacitor.Its more likely a pcb that blown if there is no power.very rare to have a faulty capacitor.There is usually visible signs that the cap has blown.

sincere113

What is the volt drop between U3 and U1?

If the cap does not charge up then it will be 0v. If it does charge up then it should be 230V a.c. (ish!!).

TM

G.MAN wrote: »

i think you could be going down the wrong route with the capacitor.Its more likely a pcb that blown if there is no power.very rare to have a faulty capacitor.There is usually visible signs that the cap has blown.

sincere113 wrote: »

What is the volt drop between U3 and U1?

If the cap does not charge up then it will be 0v. If it does charge up then it should be 230V a.c. (ish!!).

Thanks guys - if it costs about a tenner to replace the cap then I'll just try that. If that doesn't do the trick then I'm just going to replace the machine since it's about 15 years old and I reckon that replacing other parts would not be cost effective in terms of money and time given that I can get a suitable machine for €300 or less. I went down that road trying to replace door gaskets on a cheapo fridge freezer and should have just bitten the bullet in the first place and bought a new one!