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Problem with G36C

  • 29-09-2010 4:49pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 16


    Just recieved 2 G36C's today from RSOV.com and one works fine but the other isnt firing. I can feel a click when the trigger is pulled but no air/shot is fired. The other gun makes a louder sound.

    Any ideas on what to do? Its this model:

    The battery works fine as it heats up and I can only feel a click when the battery is in it.

    This is the one I purchased: http://rsov.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=3794


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 388 ✭✭johnboysligo


    Ruin3d wrote: »
    Just recieved 2 G36C's today from RSOV.com and one works fine but the other isnt firing. I can feel a click when the trigger is pulled but no air/shot is fired. The other gun makes a louder sound.

    Any ideas on what to do? Its this model:

    The battery works fine as it heats up and I can only feel a click when the battery is in it.

    This is the one I purchased: http://rsov.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=3794

    I had a similar problem with my first aeg a CA sportline M4. The bundled charger killed two batteries and when they were in the M4 i would get very similar symptoms to yours. It would sometimes fire sometimes make noises but mostly do nothing.
    Try a different battery ideally something that hasn't been used with the bundled charger.
    Oh and battery heating up doesnt mean much does it heat up while connected to the AEG? cause i dont think thats a good sign.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,752 ✭✭✭DeBurca


    You have a gearbox lockup, the clicking sound you hear is the motor trying to turn over the gearbox but does not have enough power to do so because your battery does not have the power to deliver to the motor to do this
    Your battery should not be getting hot either during firing or during charging, it may at worst get moderately warm but no more than that
    What you need is fully charged battery (a 9.6v battery would be best) connect it and select full auto and fire a few shots and it should clear itself
    The quality of both the battery and charger given with these AEGs leaves a lot to be desired
    Do yourself a favour and invest a proper battery (Intellect, Firefox, Sanyo etc) and also get a smart charger to preserve the life of the batteries and it will also charge them an awful lot faster

    One last thing I have had to downgrade a few of those particular models that were firing a bit hot at about 350fps even though it says on the box 96 MPS, it would be best to get it checked


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 16 Ruin3d


    Tried the battery in another gun and tried the other guns battery, no dice. The other battery didnt work in mine but worked in the other guys. (They are the same gun model)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,752 ✭✭✭DeBurca


    It depends on just where in the cycle that the piston stops
    If the piston stops in almost the rearmost position then the spring is under almost maximum compression and so places maximum load on the motor
    The energy required to overcome the load have to be supplied by the battery and a battery that is not fully charged or one that is not a quality product does not have the ability to supply the current necessary to complete the cycle

    If you could borrow another battery a 9.6v would be best there is a 90%+ chance that it would unlock the gearbox
    I suspect that your AEG may be a tad on the hot side and therefore has a spring with a greater than 1 Joule rating and this spring places and additional load on the battery


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 16 Ruin3d


    I have an AK47 9,4v battery but its made from NI-something else instead of NI-CD.. is it safe to use? Its also 1800 mAh instead of 1100 mAh


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,984 ✭✭✭NakedDex


    It absolutely is. The "something else" is probably MH, or metal-hydride, and is perfectly safe to use. Ni-Cd and Ni-MH packs are completely interchangeable, the difference is solely in the chemical make up of the cells. Ni-Cd is an older technology so you see less of them these days.

    The mAh rating refers to the battery's current capacity. It indicates how much current it can provide in one hour (sometimes written simply as Ah for bigger packs), so the bigger the number, the longer it'll last.
    Again, perfectly safe. It's the equivalent of going from cheapy €2 AA's, to a €6 pack of Duracells. They'll just last longer.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 16 Ruin3d


    Thanks so much NakedDesk, the other battery worked but since its not good enough I just decided to buy a new battery and works fine. Chargers are like 40 euro so cant buy one right now but may in the future, for now the bundled charger and new battery are working fine. :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,758 ✭✭✭Stercus Accidit


    Is the gun still stuck? A retailer would fix it for ya for very cheap I'd imagine and most sites have tech's too.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 388 ✭✭johnboysligo


    Ruin3d wrote: »
    Chargers are like 40 euro

    You must be looking at smart chargers they usually have a timer and resistance meter that helps protect from overcharging but i still wouldnt leave a battery unattended. Just being mindful is all you need to protect from overcharging your batteries.

    If your batteries start to failing again dump that bundled charger and grab one of the standard chargers sold by virtually every irish retailer.




    p.s. you can cut the molex connector off the bundled charger and use it as a "hobo" large to small converter if your stuck but its alot safer to buy one from the same place you get your charger from ( if the charger has a large molex connector )


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