Undersealing?

ottostreet

Had a look under the car while getting new tyres on today, and its looking a little dry underneath...not rusty really, but car has been waxoyled before, and it looks completely dried out. Looking to get it done again, as im going to be keeping my car for a long time.

Anyone know anywhere that underseals a car for a reasonable price?

R.O.R

ottostreet wrote: »

Had a look under the car while getting new tyres on today, and its looking a little dry underneath...not rusty really, but car has been waxoyled before, and it looks completely dried out. Looking to get it done again, as im going to be keeping my car for a long time.

Anyone know anywhere that underseals a car for a reasonable price?

I did my first car myself with spray cans from Halfords!

It was all dry underneath so got it up on 4 axle stands in the garage and spent a couple of days with a wire brush getting off all the mud.

Another couple of days under the car with spray cans (dude rag for the head, bandana for the face and a diving mask for the eyes) and it was ready for the wheels to go back on.

ottostreet

R.O.R wrote: »

I did my first car myself with spray cans from Halfords!

It was all dry underneath so got it up on 4 axle stands in the garage and spent a couple of days with a wire brush getting off all the mud.

Another couple of days under the car with spray cans (dude rag for the head, bandana for the face and a diving mask for the eyes) and it was ready for the wheels to go back on.

I can't see myself doing a good job on it, but it depends on the pricing really. if i can get a reasonable quote, id pay for it. if prices are high, ill tackle myself. don't really fancy getting under my car without proper equipment though

ianobrien

OP, how old is the car? Most cars are not waxoiled now, they use a shultz (spelling?) type sealer that have a dry finish. These can be sanded and sprayed/polished. That's done for concourse cars.

If the car is under 15 years old, you're wasting your time. It doesn't have waxoil. You would be better off knocking the mud off the undercarrage and clean under the wheel arch lips, end of the sills, suspension mounts and fixings etc.

ottostreet

ianobrien wrote: »

OP, how old is the car? Most cars are not waxoiled now, they use a shultz (spelling?) type sealer that have a dry finish. These can be sanded and sprayed/polished. That's done for concourse cars.

If the car is under 15 years old, you're wasting your time. It doesn't have waxoil. You would be better off knocking the mud off the undercarrage and clean under the wheel arch lips, end of the sills, suspension mounts and fixings etc.

car is 15 years old, and a jap import which came here via the uk.

ianobrien

ottostreet wrote: »

car is 15 years old, and a jap import which came here via the uk.

Ah, a jap import....

If the car is shultzed, it's a dry finish. I know that when I was getting some work done on a classic car, the bodyshop would use waxoil for inside the chassis rails, inside sills etc and the floor/wheel arches etc were shultzed.

I'd say if you find a bodyshop that specialises in classic cars, they'll advise you if it must be done. A good place will also find if there is any damage to the underseal.

Wibbs

Rust is a right little bastard alright. It can be prevented and killed, if you do it right. Numero uno I'd be careful not to cover up any existing rust with underseal. Recipe for disaster as it will happily eat away underneath. Next thing you know a lump of underseal can come off and a hole beneath. Other thing with rust is it's like an iceberg, what you see on the surface hides more below.

In a Japanese market car, which are traditionally not as well protected and with a few years in the UK with their salted roads(and after last winter we're gonna have the same thing) then you often have to dig deep to make sure you get most of it.

Waxoyl is OK, but IMHO overrated(though waaaaaaaay better than nothing). This crowd http://www.bilthamber.com/ are better and the classic forums rate it a lot. Ive used both and I'd agree. Their rust killer stuff is brilliant. Ditto for their high zinc primer and their "waxoyl" is runnier and yet sticks far better than waxoyl. Waxoyling a car's sills etc with their own pump is a right pain. Heating a basin of hot water dropping in the can and adding a bit of white spirit helps. Check out the independent tests on the two products.

If you can find one of your cars in a scrapyard it can be an education as to potential rust points. If you have sill covers or wraparound bumpers and wheelarch plastics, remove them and check under there. Sand back any rust you see to bare metal. Use decent rust killer followed by high zinc primer and then smooth hammerite in the approx colour(it'll be hidden anyway). Then pump the cavities with whichever wax you have. Check leading edges of bootlids, bonnets and the bottom of doors. Take out the spare wheel and look in there. If its damp, dry it out and make sure no seals have gone. Check the wheelarches. Another likely spot.

af_thefragile

^ Bilt Hamber stuff is supposed to be really good for rust busting.

The Hydrate 80 is good to paint on any bits prone to rust. And Dynax S50 is good for spraying into tiny gaps and all those hard to reach places which get especially prone to rust.

Don't have time now but as I found out my Puma is mechanically pretty sound, so next summer I'm spend treating the rust on it. Though there isn't much on it, but its still a 11yr old car so there is gonna be some...