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Crank Brothers Speed Lever

  • 22-06-2010 10:58pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,188 ✭✭✭


    I've read alot of recommendations on here about the Crank Brothers Speed Levers and how they're invaluable in changing clinchers.
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=8176
    One question though, as far as I understand the lever is great at mounting the tyre onto the rim again and reduces the possibility of pinching and puncturing the new tube but how does it perform in removing the tyre? Is one of these speed levers enough to bring on the road or do you need two, or one of these along with two more conventional tyre levers?

    Also can anyone recommend a good multi tool for road bike use. Ideally looking at solo trips of up to 200km and some sportives so perhaps a chain tool could be useful although I've never actually broken a chain. Are the parktool, topek or crank brothers any better than one another or are they all basically the same quality wise? Something along the lines of http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=7456 ? Don't want to be carrying unnecessary weight either.

    Thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,505 ✭✭✭✭DirkVoodoo


    2? No I don't think you need two, I'm not even sure you can fit 2 at the same time.



    EDIT: I think chain tools are more useful for mountain biking. If you have a 10 speed drivetrain or above then breaking and rejoining a chain is not going to happen unless you carry a supply of connecting pins. I haven't heard of too many people breaking chains on the road, I mean it happens, but it's pretty rare. It's up there with snapping forks and chewed up derailleurs. If it happens, call for the broomwagon.

    I would carry a lightweight tool with a 3, 4, 5 Hex wrench, phillips head and flat head screwdrivers, maybe a torx head if you ride campag. Anything other than that is overkill and really if your bike is requiring major maintenance on the side of the road that qould require more tools, you are either very unlucky or your bike shouldn't have been allowed onto the road to begin with.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,831 ✭✭✭abcdggs


    i personally don't like the speed lever, but i'm pretty sure it's because i don't know how to use it correctly. You can have mine for a fiver if you want.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,188 ✭✭✭Dr_Colossus


    Thanks, never even thought of checking youtube to see how it worked. Looks effective but I guess the proff will be in the pudding.
    Thanks for the offer abcdggs, I was putting together an order with CRC anyway using the Facebook 10% discount so included the speed level for convenience.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 68,317 ✭✭✭✭seamus


    DirkVoodoo wrote: »
    If you have a 10 speed drivetrain or above then breaking and rejoining a chain is not going to happen unless you carry a supply of connecting pins.
    My bike came with a removable link - 10-speed 105 (I assume), which I've transferred onto a new chain without problems. I was a bit confused when the document with the new chain talked about special connecting pins.
    I haven't heard of too many people breaking chains on the road, I mean it happens, but it's pretty rare.
    The only time it ever happened to me on an MTB was when I had incorrectly joined the chain myself and it gave up a few km later.
    On MTBs you run a greater risk of banging the chain off something. You could hazard a guess too that all the bouncing up and down that MTBs do is more likely to result in a damaged chain.

    I carry a chain tool on the road bike anyway. I'd prefer to be able to get myself home if stuck on the side of mountain in the wind and rain.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,038 ✭✭✭penexpers


    seamus wrote: »
    My bike came with a removable link - 10-speed 105 (I assume), which I've transferred onto a new chain without problems. I was a bit confused when the document with the new chain talked about special connecting pins.

    I would change that asap. 10 speed shimano pins are not designed to be reused. You run the risk of chain snapping if you don't change it.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 68,317 ✭✭✭✭seamus


    penexpers wrote: »
    I would change that asap. 10 speed shimano pins are not designed to be reused. You run the risk of chain snapping if you don't change it.
    Hmmm...turns out that shimano don't actually do removable links, the original chain must have been SRAM with one of these.

    I should probably put a proper connecting pin into my shimano chain....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,853 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    I have one of these.

    z_ritchey_cpr_14.jpg

    It does a lot of things barely adequately. I quite like it as it has got me home once or twice with its grudging adequacy. I've had to do chain surgery at the side of the road twice. With proper maintenance, this would not have been necessary, so you'd be better off doing good, regular maintenance than carrying a chaintool, but I still carry it now.

    It also has a bottle opener, which I've also used a fair bit.

    http://www.bikepro.com/products/chains/chaintools.html

    I think it's been discontinued, and there are certainly better tools now, but I'm fond of it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,830 ✭✭✭doozerie


    I've used the Speed Lever at home but never really found that it saved me much time so I just bring two regular tyre levers with me on the bike. One way to help avoid pinching the tube as you fit the tyre is to inflate the tube enough first that it doesn't flatten out under the tyre wall while fitting re-seating the tyre. The last part of tyre wall to fit should be that beside the tube valve, so at that stage release some of the air from the tube and use the tube valve to push the tube up into the tyre as you fit that last section of tyre - this will push the now flat tube away from the rim and helps avoid that last bit of tyre wall sitting on the tube while fitting.

    As regards multitools, I've carried a Park Tool IB-1 with me for some time. I might change to the Park Tool IB-2, or similar, soon as I now would like to have a Torx T25 with me as well. The best thing is to look at the parts of the bike that could leave you stranded if they were to work their way loose or out of alignment, but that are feasible to fix on the roadside, and choose a tool that'll cater for those. In my case I want to be able to (re-)tighten the stem and handlebars, re-tighten seat post and saddle bolts, re-tighten derailleurs (and jockey wheels), adjust the brakes (including brake blocks), re-tighten all cables, re-tighten chainset bolts, and adjust derailleur stop screws. Some will view that list as overkill, some will view it as not comprehensive enough, but it works for me as it covers me for anything except some really bad luck (or results of poor maintenance) such as cranks working loose for example.

    I also carry a spoke key with me ( this one is handy), as I also don't want to be stranded by a broken spoke leaving a wheel so far out of true that it won't even clear the brakes or frame (more of a risk for wheels with less than 32 spokes). And I've carried a chain splitter with me on and off for a few years depending on how paranoid I'm feeling on the day (this one works well, for its size).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    Depends on your tyre-rim combo. Some will come off and go back on just with the speed lever. Others won't. for these I carry an additional two plastic levers but the speed lever is still good in this case for holding the tyre in place as you work around it.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 438 ✭✭SubLuminal


    abcdggs wrote: »
    i personally don't like the speed lever, but i'm pretty sure it's because i don't know how to use it correctly. You can have mine for a fiver if you want.

    I'll take it at that price if the other guy doesn't want it? And as long as its in good condition?

    I'm based in Dublin 7 (stonybatter) but can meet in centre?

    Or phoenix park if you do spins around there?


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  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 4,034 Mod ✭✭✭✭Planet X


    Just got one today after seeing Uberwolf using one two weeks ago. Impressed (with the speed lever) :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,830 ✭✭✭doozerie


    On the topic of multi-tools, mentioned briefly earler, another brand to add to the list of good quality ones to consider is Lezyne. I've lately opted for a Lezyne in preference to a Park Tool multi-tool as it gives me the specific mix of tools that I'd like these days while the Park models didn't, and the quality seems to be quite good. Lezyne prices are on a par with, and in some cases a lot more than, Park Tool though.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 4,034 Mod ✭✭✭✭Planet X


    Got the Crank Bros. 19 Tool Multi. a few months ago. Nice and nice holder to boot.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,188 ✭✭✭Dr_Colossus


    I went for the Topeak Mini 18+ in the end
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=11318
    after seeing the same one in the flesh in halfords for a significant mark up. Nice multitool with good quality allen keys and has everything I need plus the carry case is nice to keep off the dust and grit.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 241 ✭✭Dizraeligears


    Have a look in the bargain bins in halfords-got a pair of speed levers in Cavan for 50 cent each


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 4,034 Mod ✭✭✭✭Planet X


    Super piece of kit. Recommended. Just popped two tyres off in less than a minute. Brill.


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