Fencing

trepasers

I was thinking of doing a timber fence around my house.
I was just wondering should I get someone in to do it or should I tackle it myself. What type of fence should I do ...I dont want it to look to plain..

Any help appreciated.

ravima

If you think that you are competent enough to do it, then go ahead. Otherwise, try either FRS or your local paper for a fencing contractor.

I would think that timber post and two rails would be nice, especially if you blacken it with either crecote or black fencelife. crecote is allowed, but cresote is not.

eorna

do it yourself. stud fencing is handy enough to put up and you'll safe a fortune. that's what i would do anyway. 2 or 3 rails.

trepasers

Thanks lads for the replys......Just wonderiong what type would should I use.....When setting the posts, what would the best thing to do (set them in concrete )

trepasers

I was just wondering for doing the holes for the posts would I use one of those post augers or will I just use a mini digger ???

Has anyone ever tried these post augers before ??

Sam Kade

Make sure you get extra long posts and put them in deep. I have seen a lot of this DIY fencing blown over in windy weather.

trepasers

Sam Kade wrote: »

Make sure you get extra long posts and put them in deep. I have seen a lot of this DIY fencing blown over in windy weather.

Will do ....Thanks for your help !!

maidhc

trepasers wrote: »

Thanks lads for the replys......Just wonderiong what type would should I use.....When setting the posts, what would the best thing to do (set them in concrete )

Completely OTT but we set galvanised angle iron in concrete and bolted on the posts with stainless steel bolts.

Don't use a mini digger for the love of god, the holes will be too big. Auger sounds ideal, although we ended up digging the holes by hand.

And make sure the fence is level or it will look all wrong!

reilig

Post and rail fencing is not too difficult, but if you don't do it right, it will look really awful. There are some great deals to be had out there at the moment on pressure treated posts and rails with up to 20 year guarantees depending on where you are in the country. The secret of post and rail is keeping it straight. ie. Drive a start post and an end post on a straight and tie a builders line between them. Work out accurate measurements for the distance between each post (You want 1 post in the middle of the rail and 1 at each end or the joint between the rails) and get yourself a 2by1 length of timber this length so that you don't have to have a measuring tape out all the time.

Don't aguger or dig holes for any posts or they will always be loose in the ground. Mark each post to the approximate depth that you want to drive them, that way your fence will follow the contours of the ground that you are fencing. Its essential that you drive the posts with a post driver or a digger bucket and keep them as straight as possible and run them along the line that you already have up. When marking the posts before driving you should ensure to allow 2 inches spare at the top that you can cut it off after driving as it may be damaged. You can then put a cap on top of it. Do not put concrete around any posts - it is better to buy posts that are long enough and drive them far enough. The acid in concrete causes premature rot in wooden posts. Most dealers selling wooden posts will tell you that using concrete around them will invalidate any guarantee that may be with them.

Putting up a post and rail fence around a turn is a little more tricky. The only rule that you have to follow is that the fence should look good and straight to the eye rather than to the spirit level and make sure it follows the contoursof the land.

trepasers

Thanks everyone for your help !!....Just wondering would there be enough power from a mini digger to drive down the posts. Dont want to be getting caught with rocks:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

fastrac

No way will a mini digger drive posts this time of year.Way better to get somebody with a good post driver and the ability to use it properly as you will be looking at the fence for a long time.

reilig

trepasers wrote: »

Thanks everyone for your help !!....Just wondering would there be enough power from a mini digger to drive down the posts. Dont want to be getting caught with rocks:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

Nothing will drive wooden posts through rocks.

haybob

If you have cattle near it get a few screw in insulators and run a line of electric fence wire around the side where the cattle will be or they will be scratching them selves off it, rooting at it and will eventually ruin it on you

trepasers wrote: »

I was thinking of doing a timber fence around my house.
I was just wondering should I get someone in to do it or should I tackle it myself. What type of fence should I do ...I dont want it to look to plain..

Any help appreciated.

lanod2407

I'd recommend driving around and looking at a fences before you start. I was doing some similar work around the house and a mate told me that 3 rail would look a bit 'hungry' or 'mean' and that 4 would be a great job. Thought it was over the top until I spent a couple of hours driving around looking at fencing ........... and Tom was totally right, the 4 rail version was the business.

And it's only slightly more expensive - the cost of one more line of railing.

Totally agree with Reilig regarding maintaining the posts at the same height so that the fence follows the contours of the land - essential.

If you're looking for a post and rail supplier that provides good product at a good price send me a PM - wouldn't want to attract the wrath of a mod by blurting out the name of the supplier I used!!!

SARAH ANNE

pm me 2 pls name of suppliers

bk1991

We were told at college that when putting up a post and rail fence along a public road the rails have to be on inside of post so that if there is a car accident the nails/screws will pop out and let rail fly away from car .Where as the way all fences are put up rail on outside if car hits it will break and could injure drive worse .



bk1991

vincenzolorenzo

bk1991 wrote: »

We were told at college that when putting up a post and rail fence along a public road the rails have to be on inside of post so that if there is a car accident the nails/screws will pop out and let rail fly away from car .Where as the way all fences are put up rail on outside if car hits it will break and could injure drive worse .



bk1991

Really? I don't think I've ever seen a single fence done like that

Casinoking

bk1991 wrote: »

We were told at college that when putting up a post and rail fence along a public road the rails have to be on inside of post so that if there is a car accident the nails/screws will pop out and let rail fly away from car .Where as the way all fences are put up rail on outside if car hits it will break and could injure drive worse .



bk1991

Never seen or heard of such a thing, even on the newest motorways the rail is always nearest the road. Anyway if the fence is put up properly there shouldn't be anything "popping out" no matter how hard you hit it.

bk1991

Casinoking wrote: »

Never seen or heard of such a thing, even on the newest motorways the rail is always nearest the road. Anyway if the fence is put up properly there shouldn't be anything "popping out" no matter how hard you hit it.

never seen it done just what we were told . but no mather how good u put up fence with nails or screws id say it would part company from something hitting it with speed .

selfbuild

please pm me phone number also

SCOL

I put a fence around my house last year, I got a guy to sink the post he charged me €2 per post and I had telegraph poles for the gates they cost €3 to sink. I put up the rails myself.
The tractor is a great job as you will not be able to put them down by hand as good as the tractor I think I paid €40 ish for the lot saved alot of time and hassell.