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trouble removing a cassette

  • 24-05-2010 10:32am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 48


    Looking for a little advice. I am trying to remove the cassette from a Mavic wheel. It is a Shimano 9 speed Cassette and I have a chain whip and lockring tool. I can see the rotation direction to lock as it is printed on the lockring. But the issue is that the lockring seems to be stuck. I have tried in vain a number of times to open. I am afraid of damaging the wheel. Any suggestions on how i can get this open ?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,481 ✭✭✭Morgan


    Probably just a little tight - use more leverage!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 911 ✭✭✭crashoveroid


    Looking for a little advice. I am trying to remove the cassette from a Mavic wheel. It is a Shimano 9 speed Cassette and I have a chain whip and lockring tool. I can see the rotation direction to lock as it is printed on the lockring. But the issue is that the lockring seems to be stuck. I have tried in vain a number of times to open. I am afraid of damaging the wheel. Any suggestions on how i can get this open ?

    try spraying a bit of WD40 as well might help


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,505 ✭✭✭✭DirkVoodoo


    I feel your pain, I had trouble removing a lockring recently. I let some penetrating oil sit around the threads (keep a rag around the axle to stop it getting near the bearings) and did what Morgan said: more leverage. It was made harder by the grip on the (cheap) chainwhip slipping off.

    Maybe take it to a bike shop, if they have a vise grip they can get much more grip and leverage. Worse situation is they destroy the lockring.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,218 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    DirkVoodoo wrote: »
    Worse situation is they destroy the lockring.

    This would be my guess. I use a large (probably 18 inch) torque wrench, and the lockring (anti-)teeth tend to get a bit damaged when I apply proper leverage with it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,830 ✭✭✭doozerie


    @theotherone, Before applying more grunt, double-check to make sure that there is little or no play between your wrench and the lockring tool. An adjustable wrench should work fine, but if yours is either short (on the handle) or can't be adjusted to fit very well, then it may be an option to use a 1" socket on the lockring tool (depends on the tool though - Park tools will work with a 1" socket, for example). If your lockring tool lets you, remove the springs on your skewer and feed it through the hub and lock ring tool to reduce the risk of the tool popping out as you increase the pressure you are applying.

    Also, try moving the chainwhip to a different ring (down the cassette towards the lockring) to see if that makes any difference as sometimes you can find yourself wasting energy just trying to keep the two tools in the same plane if the chainwhip is on a ring high up on the cassette.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 48 theotherone


    Thanks for the tips, a little more leverage seem to do the trick.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 110 ✭✭mrbike


    try spraying a bit of WD40 as well might help

    I wouldn't recommend this. Spraying WD40 into your freehub can remove the lubricant around the bearings. If you need to, use oil not a solvent.


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