Shotguns???

murphy125

I'm just wondering why is their very few threads about shotguns?
Dont get me wrong I enjoy reading about rifles but i would like to see more threads about shotguns.

EPointer=Birdss

murphy125 wrote: »

I'm just wondering why is their very few threads about shotguns?
Dont get me wrong I enjoy reading about rifles but i would like to see more threads about shotguns.

Interesting point mate.
Never used a rifle & lads on here know alot about em.
Seems to be alot more science involved in them & alot more to talk about.

Cass

A stab in the dark here Murph, but i'd hazard a guess that it has to do with the amont of variables related to rifle ownership. You know, bullet type, twist rate, accuracy, scope choice, accessories, target work, scoring, etc. Alot of chat about a seemingly small factor. Good conversation.

The shotgun, while personally my favorite firearm, has the few calibers (12g, 20g, 410, etc) and little else. Yes there is some debate as to which shell is best for which type of work (hunting, clays) but after that its down to which make you like and thats really it.

No to undervalue the shotgun, as said i started with one and will always have one in the cabinet, but there is so much more discussion to be had on rifle setups than shotguns.

Feel free to start a thread. Would enjoy a chat about shotties plus i have no problem waffling away about anything.:D

Odysseus

It takes people to start them I suppose, I would love to see more threads on shotguns, as I have learned a lot about my firearms here.

As a question though can I ask the following:

I use the shotgun for pigeons and hares, so I use 32gr no5s and 6s. I was in my dealers the weekend and I asked what was the strongest load he had in stock. I just wanted to try something different to see what they feel like to shoot.

So I left with a box of 10 RC 00 50gr shells. I haven't tried them yet, and I don't think I will be getting more of them; but I'm interested in what the recoil would be like from them.

What would you use this type of shell for, close kill on a fox? Can anyone direct me to a site that explains the different loads and uses.

jap gt

i also have a question, which shotgun is best suited to game shooting, and a bit of vermin like rats crows etc, almost every gun in my club is u/o, just wondering which is best suited

murphy125

Good point ezridax I dont understand that much about rifles,even though i have a cz .22lr,i dont use it that much maybe the odd rabbit here or there and a few targets in the fields.But i rather the shotguns i have three,lanber sporter,browning a1 and a webley and scott side by side


ps if anybody has an easy way of how to zero in a scope? could you please share it with me

Spannerman7

I got 2, a cheap and cheerful Baikal for belting foxes and grey crows and a nice fabarm for game shooting. I use Express AAA 76mm x 53 grain for the foxing, I normally carry it along when lamping, can be handy at times. If you use the 76mm or 3" rounds it will say it on the barrel, most modern stuff can take it. There is some belt off them.

murphy125

Jap GT

There are shotguns basically made for game shooting the stock is at an different angle than a trap or sporter gun also the the forend may differ aswell

Odysseus

Spannerman7 wrote: »

I got 2, a cheap and cheerful Baikal for belting foxes and grey crows and a nice fabarm for game shooting. I use Express AAA 76mm x 53 grain for the foxing, I normally carry it along when lamping, can be handy at times. If you use the 76mm or 3" rounds it will say it on the barrel, most modern stuff can take it. There is some belt off them.

What type of range are you using them on foxes? Would that be just to finish one off, or do you hunt them with the shotgun only?

Cass

Sorry in advance for the very.........very long post.

Odysseus wrote: »

So I left with a box of 10 RC 00 50gr shells.........but I'm interested in what the recoil would be like from them.What would you use this type of shell for............

They are sometimes refered to as "double-ought". They have fewer pellets but are larger with a 50gr load firing it. There will be a slightly more noticeable kick from these and personally i think they are overkill for anything that would be shot with a shotgun. The largest round i fired was a 42gr 5 when out duck hunting years ago. The distance i was shooting from was longer than i would normally do, but i changed to the heavier shot to compensate. Most of my game shooting would be done with Super Express 36gr 5's. Great cartridge, ultra reliable (no misfires, ever), great killing power. For pigeons and other winged pests a 28gr to 32 gr 7 - 9.5 shell generally does. Depends on cover and distance you are shooting.

Can anyone direct me to a site that explains the different loads and uses

This place would be a good starting site.

jap gt wrote:

.......which shotgun is best suited to game shooting.....

Its a very personal choice. I used O/U for years. I made the switch to semi auto a few years back and have not regretted it. I got rid of the semi to concentrate on clays but intend (soon) to get another semi for game. Some lads i shoot with won't look at a semi and others have made the switch and said they will never go back to O/U. There is no right or wrong answer.

The right shotgun will pick you (as naff as that sounds).:p

murph125 wrote:

ps if anybody has an easy way of how to zero in a scope? could you please share it with me

If installing the scope the quick way would be to place the rifle in a gun clamp or very steady front rest and back bag. Place a spirit level on a flat section of the rifle. If none can be got or trusted take the rings apart and screw on the bottom section of the rings leaving the top piece of. Tighten these down. Now place a level across these rings and straighten the rifle. Once your happy, place the scope into the rings and place the top section of the rings on the bootom section over the scope and screw in the screws but DO NOT tighten.

Have a heavy string/line hanging from the ceiling of your hall (at the end of the hall). Weigh it down if necessary. This will give you a dead straight vertical line. Have the rifle pointing towards the string and adjust the position of the scope forward and back in the rings until your eye relief is good (that there is no black when you look into the scope) Twist/turn the scope until the vertical line of the crosshair tallies with the string/line hanging in your hall. Once happy tighten the screws on the rings but do so in an alternating fashion as if you tighten one side fully it will twist the scope in the rings. Problem i find with some lads is even though the crosshairs are perfectly straight everyone holds the rifle at a slight cant and so when they put it to their eye they think the crosshair is leaning. Its not. Resist the temptation to adjust it as canting the crosshair to suit your hold will mean any clicking to zero the scope will result in angled adjustments rather than perfectly up/down or left/right adjustments.

Go to a range or find a fixed spot at home. Somewhere around the 50yd mark is grand. Have the elevation of your scope trned down to zero. Have the windage adjustments centralised. As in if there is 50 minutes (moa) of adjustment have it set for 25moa. Have the bolt removed and with the rifle unclamped adjust the rifle until you can see the target down the barrel. The muzzle of the gun will appear as a circle and must sit perfectly "central" in the circle created by the breach. Once this is done make sure the target is central in the circles created by the muzzle and breach. Have the rifle reclamped making sure the target is still central in the bore/barrel. Now without moving the rifle look through the scope and see where the crosshairs are in relation to the target. Adjust the crosshairs up to and left/right until they meet the target. Now once more check the bore/barrel sight and scope sight. If you are happy both are pointing at the same target time to replace the bolt and fire a shot (this is why i recommen doing this at a range). Find where the shot impacted. Measure the distance from your point of impact to the target bull and adjust your scope as necessary. gain fire another shot. You should be either in or very close to the bull. Make one more adjustment if you are not in the bull and fire one more round. You should be zeroed at this point.

Odysseus

Excellent info there Ezridax. Cheers for the link.

Cass

No bodger.;)

Spannerman7

Odysseus wrote: »

What type of range are you using them on foxes? Would that be just to finish one off, or do you hunt them with the shotgun only?

I use my 220 swift for lamping but sometimes a fox will pop up too close or run in too far, they normally cop on to you straight away and there is no time for the rifle, the shotgun is always to hand and perfect for such situations, rare as they might be. 40 yrds would be the most range needed as anything further out you got time and the swift looks after them. I rebuilt my landrover a few years back and put in a two man stainless hatch, just to the side of it is where the shotgun lives for those outings.
The AAA rounds have never once failed to flatted them on the spot.

kay 9

ezridax wrote: »

No bodger.;)

What would ya be usin for grey crows, even though i usually use the rifles anyway, just curious. cheers buddy

cavan shooter

I suppose the reason why you dont see much on shotguns, stems from the fact there so simple. The odd post about clay guns, the odd post on evil semi autos and how dangerous/inconsiderate people are that use them.:rolleyes:
+1 for AAA and foxes,
BTW I use a Berretta 391 urika for all my game and skeet light weight nice to swing.

Cass

kay 9 wrote: »

What would ya be usin for grey crows, even though i usually use the rifles anyway, just curious. cheers buddy

For close shots (and 90% of my shooting of them) the shotgun. On ocassion when the situation allows (backstop, etc) the .22 with a good hollow point subsonic like Eley or Lapua.

kay 9

ezridax wrote: »

For close shots (and 90% of my shooting of them) the shotgun. On ocassion when the situation allows (backstop, etc) the .22 with a good hollow point subsonic like Eley or Lapua.

Sorry Ezridax, I meant cartridge size:rolleyes: Never spotted my mistake, cheers again;)

murphy125

Ezridax

once zeroed in how often after that would you have to do it again?


And dunno but for a game gun i have always used side by sides
i would keep the over and unders for the clays!

Cass

I was using the 32gr 7.5s but recently got a good enough price (which eludes me) on a case of 32gr 6s, Super Game from Eley. They are a decent cartridge and i'm dropping 85-90% of what i go for. I am slightly curious of the few i miss. I understand i will not hit everything but you know when you miss a shot and you look at the gun and could swear on a stack of bibles that you were on target. I have had those few that i can only put down to the cartridge, but overall i content enough with them.

I used to use the Super Express 36gr 5s from years ago. They could be bought for €5 per box or less per case. They then disappeared and when they re-appeared they were up to €7.50 per box. Don't get me wrong an excellent cartridge but at the rising price a bit costly to be blowing away after winged rats. I still keep a case on hand but only use them when going for a serious day of hunting.

Cass

murphy125 wrote: »

Ezridax

once zeroed in how often after that would you have to do it again?

For a .22lr unless you have dropped the gun or banged the scope the chances of a loss of zero are almost none, but for a centerfire i would suggest a trip once a month or at most every 2 months to a range. They (range) have stable firing points and fixed distance targets. So once you zero your rifle, if possible zero your turrets and then you have a fixed point from which to adjust your scope with the peace of mind of knowing if something doesn't work out (when clicking up or down) you can return to your zero with no problems.

If it is only a .22lr its no harm to drop out to a range or a known spot every few/couple of months to recheck the zero. Ammo is cheap and its only a few minutes of your life for some safe shooting.

Small piece of advice for centerfires and .22lr alike, check your scope mounts, ring screws, etc at least once a month. I do it every time i clean my firearms. Again only for peace of mind and its good to spot a loose screw before it causes a problem on the range/ in the field.

pedroeibar1

jap gt wrote: »

i also have a question, which shotgun is best suited to game shooting, and a bit of vermin like rats crows etc, almost every gun in my club is u/o, just wondering which is best suited

A couple of pointers – firstly, make sure that the cartridge is the correct length for the chamber – cartridges are 2, 2.5 and 3 inches long. Do not put a 3inch magnum in a 2.5 inch chamber.

US shotgun cartridge numbers are not the same as those in Irl/UK – our No.5 is their No. 6.

The type of gun to be used is a question of personal preference, habit, tradition and fashion.

Game guns traditionally were/are side by sides (SxS). Then under & over (U&O) guns became fashionable and everyone had to have one. Now sxs are coming back into fashion. Why? – nice clean lines, have “splinter” fore-ends, are lighter than clays guns and have almost two centuries of design history. For shooters with an eye dominance problem the narrower side profile is said to be a help.

Clays guns inevitably are U&O. Why? The single plane of the top rib gives a better sight angle when firing at a clay. The recoil angle is slightly different from a sxs, supposedly allowing faster target acquisition on a second target. The rib is ventilated (has gaps in it) to reduce shimmer from hot barrels. Clays guns are built more heavily to help absorb recoil.
Disadvantage of a sxs for clays shooting is that the splinter fore-end does not provide enough protection to the hands when firing many shots, so a hand protector must be slipped on the barrels or gloves worn.

Disadvantage of a clays gun for game shooting is mainly weight – a good game sxs weighs 6.5 lbs, a good clays gun starts at 7.5 lbs. (and up!) Not much in the difference, but carry one in the field for a day and it will tell! Also, stray bits of grass, twig, etc., get stuck in the ventilated ribs and are a distraction.

Automatic shotguns, or those wrapped in cammo tape are looked down upon except when shooting duck or high volume pigeon shooting. (No, I’m not going down that road!)

I use sxs 12 for general shooting, with no.4 for duck, no. 6 for pheasant (or 5 if they are going to be high birds) and have killed foxes at less than 40 yards with no.6.
I use the sxs 20b for a long day of rough shooting with no.9 for woodcock & snipe.

All have fixed chokes, quarter and half.


P.