Whats Best For Cleaning Your Gun Barrell ?

vixdname

Howya lads, Just wondering ye're opinions on what ye reckon is the best method \chemical or regime for keeping the inside of your gun barrell clean after shooting ? Any hints or tips ye care to share ?

It wasn't me!

What I'm currently doing is:

Oily patch down
Brush out a fair bit with bronze brush
Dry patch or two until relatively clean
Copper solvent patch
Lots more bronze brush
Dry patches until clean

Repeat the above until you're not really getting anything more out of it.

jap gt

sorry for hi jacking thread, i just got my first rifle, i know what to clean but not what oil etc i need, i was in the shop yesterday, they had loads of oil solvents etc, also i hear people talking a lot about bore guides do ye need them, basically the info i want is what will i need to keep a 22 in great nick

Odysseus

jap gt wrote: »

sorry for hi jacking thread, i just got my first rifle, i know what to clean but not what oil etc i need, i was in the shop yesterday, they had loads of oil solvents etc, also i hear people talking a lot about bore guides do ye need them, basically the info i want is what will i need to keep a 22 in great nick

Don't know if this helps, but I'm in a similar position myself, just got my first rimfire. I found lots of videos on youtube for the 17hmr, but there was a good few on .22 as well.

jwshooter

take her steady with the bronze brush , i dont even own one

jap gt

jwshooter wrote: »

take her steady with the bronze brush , i dont even own one

thats one tip from the lad i got the gun from gave me, he said should only be used after really hard use, i just basically dont want to buy a load of crap i dont need

It wasn't me!

bore guide is fairly essential (don't currently have one, definitely high on the to-do list). Keeps gunk out of the action and makes cleaning the chamber and throat tidier as well.

I'd patch out the barrel frequently enough. The brush only gets used after about sixty rounds, and it gets out a fierce amount of muck then.

jamesomara

While at the range, bog, or whatever, just before you get home.

1) With a carbon rod (like Dewey's) Dry swab first.
2) Next, use a bronze brush.
3) New dry swab, new wet swab, and new dry swab.
4) Repeat #2
5) Repeat #3
6) Then use Rem Oil or something else

As a cleaner, I like Hoppe's #9.

As a lube, I like Rem Oil or Hoppe's Lube.

jap gt

would i be right in saying after you run the patches and the come out clean should i run a very light amount of oil through the barrel or should it be left dry

Cass

Thats a good routine james, but to add i (personally) would be doing this every 20 to 25 rounds as the build up from centerfire rounds can accumulate quite quickly. Much more so than a rimfire.

It wasn't me!

jap gt wrote: »

would i be right in saying after you run the patches and the come out clean should i run a very light amount of oil through the barrel or should it be left dry

If it's going in the safe for a while, no harm to leave a film of oil in the barrel. You want to patch it out before you shoot though, so if that'll be soon, I'd leave it patched dry. Another issue is that safes, particularly attached to outer walls, can accumulate moisture, so stick some silica gel packets in the safe. No point putting them away safely only to take them out rusty!

jamesomara

JapGt - probably a good idea to pick up the solvent before the oil - don't want them fighting...

ezridax - I agree, however, must admit to not having the patience to do so. However, I ABSOLUTELY agree if the gun is new. In this case, I fire a shot and then dry swab for the first 100 rounds. Not fun, but they tell me it is important.

It wasn't me! - I am just wondering if I am the only one... I have a nice gun and some beaters. When I clean the nice gun and put it in the stand-up safe I always put the barrel down and the action up. I do not want the oil going down into the action over time.

Might be a bit much, however, it makes me feel better.

noodle650

for a shotgun a boresnake witha bit of spray on 3 in 1.
for a rifle, just use a cloth pull through..DO NTO USE A BRONZE BRUSH....the rifling will get worn down over time, plus the cloth pull through will work perfectly on its own anyway

It wasn't me!

noodle650 wrote: »

for a shotgun a boresnake witha bit of spray on 3 in 1.
for a rifle, just use a cloth pull through..DO NTO USE A BRONZE BRUSH....the rifling will get worn down over time, plus the cloth pull through will work perfectly on its own anyway

pull-throughs don't clean a bore properly. They're a sloppy intermediate solution at best. And a bronze brush is significantly softer than steel, so isn't going to damage the bore. Does a wonderful job of getting the gunk out too.

jamesomara

noodle650
With all due respect, fair enough Bronze is harder than copper. However, even assuming the barrel is not chrome lined, wouldn't a copper jacketed bullet going supersonic have a far greater abrasive affect than the few low speed passes of a bronze brush?

foxshooter243

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwhOXV7lmYk

john krieger on barrels-he talks about cleaning at the end of the clip:)

It wasn't me!

foxshooter243 wrote: »

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwhOXV7lmYk

john krieger on barrels-he talks about cleaning at the end of the clip:)

Cheers FS, will watch that when I get home.

shanmoll308

Hey Vix

This is the way I clean all my rifles. All you need is Mpro7 gun cleaner, a tin of forest foam, a bore guide if you have one, a bronze/nylon brush, a cleaning rod, a pointed Jag and some patches.

1. Remove bolt and insert bore guide.
2. Attach bronze/nylon brush to cleaning rod and push through bore. Remove bronze/nylon brush at the muzzle end and pull rod back out. Repeat this 2-3 times (Do this to remove loose carbon and unburned powder from bore before wet patching).
3. Attach pointed jag to cleaning rod, followed by patch.
4. Wet patch with a squirt of Mpro7 and push through bore, followed by dry patch then wet, dry, wet, dry until patches come out clean. Note: you may at this point need to wet your bronze bristle brush and work it back and forth a few times in your barrel depending on the ammount of fouling. (Do this to remove carbon buildup and expose copper fouling.)
5. Now squirt your forest foam down the barrel and leave overnight if possible. (Do this to remove copper fouling)
6. Use dry patch first then a wet patch (Mpro7) followed by a few dry patches (Do this to remove forrest foam). Note: If your first patch does not come out blue you may not have removed enough carbon and may have to repeat step 4 :eek:
7. Last but not least dry your chamber, I use 410 shotgun mop with tissue wrapped round for my 308 and swift. Job done.

Phew I am not used to this puter stuff, I have been typing this for the last two days using only my trigger finger

Shanmoll308

poulo6.5

you want to be carefull with that trigger finger , if anything happens to it what will you pick your nose with,:D:D

poulo6.5

jap gt wrote: »

sorry for hi jacking thread, i just got my first rifle, i know what to clean but not what oil etc i need, i was in the shop yesterday, they had loads of oil solvents etc, also i hear people talking a lot about bore guides do ye need them, basically the info i want is what will i need to keep a 22 in great nick

congrats on getting your new rifle, have you fired it yet,;)

as long as you clean it regularly and wipe off any excess oil when finished you dont need to to worry to much

happy hunting:D