Back wheel not running true

Pablo_

Hi , just looking for tips, have a road/sportif bike and recently the back wheel is running really off centre. I have spent a lot of time trying to get the line right, but took it off and ran it on two stationery points and was still off. it is not the axil line. Is the wheel just buckled? I heard of a thing where the wheel is 'broken' , meaning the line is gone and it will never run true again ... just don't fancy buying new wheel ... any other things I could try or check before have to reach for the wallet ??

serendip

Probably one for the bike shop.

rothar man

got mavic cxp back wheel for sale from a giant defy

u can have it for 40 euro

based in drumcondra

victorcarrera

Pablo_ wrote: »

it is not the axil line.

I assume by this you mean that the wheel bearings are smooth and the axle is not loose in the hub.

I heard of a thing where the wheel is 'broken' , meaning the line is gone and it will never run true again

Untrue. Slight buckles can be corrected quickly and cheaply at most bike shops and by most cycling enthusiasts.
Call in to a few bike shops and ask for an estimate. That shouldn't cost anything.

Pablo_

thanks for replies guys, and for offer rothar man but drumcondra bit far to go

victorcarrera wrote: »

I assume by this you mean that the wheel bearings are smooth and the axle is not loose in the hub.


Untrue. Slight buckles can be corrected quickly and cheaply at most bike shops and by most cycling enthusiasts.
Call in to a few bike shops and ask for an estimate. That shouldn't cost anything.

I think you are hitting the nail on the head ... i checked it again and it is like the bearings are not smooth and the axle is actually a little loose in the hub .... i'll drop it in to bike shop so, at least i know now it is a cheap enought job .... presume i don't want to be dismantling a hub and playing around with bearings i suppose

blorg

Fixing a buckle is a cheap enough job. Adjusting the bearings is even cheaper if adjustment is all that is required. Replacing the bearings can get a bit expensive though if that is needed; it can be more economical to replace the wheel.

ED E

blorg wrote: »

Fixing a buckle is a cheap enough job. Adjusting the bearings is even cheaper if adjustment is all that is required. Replacing the bearings can get a bit expensive though if that is needed; it can be more economical to replace the wheel.

Idiot question: Are road bearings a lot more expensive than hybrid ones? IIRC I paid like €8 for a pack last time.

blorg

Lethal_Bullet wrote: »

Idiot question: Are road bearings a lot more expensive than hybrid ones? IIRC I paid like €8 for a pack last time.

It can depend a lot on the system, many wheels these days use sealed bearings that tend to be more expensive. Shimano though use loose bearings all the way up the line, that may be cheaper. Not an idiot question at all, to be honest I've never done it on a wheel myself and am just going on the estimated prices I have got for generally lower end wheels- they have been expensive and not worth it.

Back wheels can be more pricey as they have at least four bearings (the extra due to the freehub) and some have more... but not all may need to be replaced. How you diagnose this I would have to leave to someone more qualified than myself, it is I that is closer to the idiot here

ED E

Yeah, I've plonked the larger ones into front and read hybrid(MTB) hubs before when they started grinding:p The last one is always a b1tch to fit as you end up knocking another one out.

Labour costs would probably be high as if you're gonna do it the chances are you'll want to clean the interior of the hub out which takes some doing.

doozerie

Replacing loose (ball) bearings in a hub is quite straightforward. The bearings themselves are readily available and generally fairly cheap. You'll need a few tools though, which ones depends entirely on the wheel. A typical wheel would require at least one (and preferably two) regular spanners to fit the outer locknuts on the axle, and at least one (and preferably two) "cone spanners" which are just thinner spanners than usual. There is some good info on how to replace the bearings here. Just remember to only ever remove the nuts from one side of the axle, and then slide the axle out the other side - otherwise you'll have the extra tricky task of trying to centre the axle properly later if you remove the nuts from both sides. Also, it is worth buying good quality grease as otherwise you'll find yourself having to repeat the job much sooner.

Wheels with sealed bearings are a different story as the bearings are pressed (i.e. jammed) in place and removing them can be tricky. Without the proper tool to remove them (basically just a more refined hammer) you'll have to rely on a hammer and something like a screwdriver, which at the very least is a pain and at worst may cause damage. Sealed bearings can be expensive if you buy the official ones, but you can often find the same ones available from an engineering firm for a fraction of the cost - all you should need is the part number from the existing bearings.

Junior

victorcarrera wrote: »

Untrue. Slight buckles can be corrected quickly and cheaply at most bike shops and by most cycling enthusiasts.
Call in to a few bike shops and ask for an estimate. That shouldn't cost anything.

Actually, your wrong, a wheel can bent and the rim integrity can be compromised so it won't stay straight, happened to me after a crash. However that's very different from a 'buckle' it would was fairly out of shape to be honest..