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Too much draw in stove

  • 18-01-2010 9:12pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 230 ✭✭


    Hi,
    I'm having an ongoing problem with my stove http://www.broseleyfires.com/Multifuel-Stoves/Hercules-30B_Boiler-Stove.html installed last march. The draw is so strong up the chimney that most of the heat goes up the enamelled flue pipe so much so that it keeps melting the chimney cement where the flue and stove meet.
    So I'm looking for any ideas to reduce the draw going up the chimney, I've tried a few different cowls but it made no difference.
    Any help would be appreciated.
    cheers
    joe


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,756 ✭✭✭demanufactured


    close down the air control?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 230 ✭✭sentenel


    Hi
    at this stage I must have nearly worn out the air controls :-).
    If I close down the air controls the heat just goes up the flue and doesn't seem to heat the water for the boiler or radiators
    cheers
    Joe


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    What fuel are you using? Coal? Try fuel with less calorific value and see if it helps.
    When did you last sweep the flue? You may want to check.
    Uncontrollable draw sounds like a dangerous situation. The air controls should be able to choke the stove right down.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,240 ✭✭✭✭cnocbui


    How are the rope seals on the door and around the glass?

    If you can not reduce the rate of combustion using the air damper, air is likely leaking in somewhere.

    The page you linked to says: "Can be simply dismantled for ease of installation"

    Which might imply there are other areas air might leak in if it wasn't assembled correctly.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 230 ✭✭sentenel


    Hi Cj and Cnoc
    I burn wood turf and ecobrite, the chimney was swept last march and Dec, I took the stove apart and checked all the seals in december and all seem to be doing their job. The problem seems to be that in order to get enough heat to heat the rads and or water the stove has to be red hot and most of the heat seem to be going up the flue (and burning the high temp cement (1200 degrees) ) it says the stove can run 20 rads but i have the house zoned and some rads off so the most I'm running at any one time is 13 (3 singles 2 doubles and 2 trebles).
    cheers
    joe


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,756 ✭✭✭demanufactured


    What stove is it???
    No stove is capable of running 20 rads.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 771 ✭✭✭dardevle


    What stove is it???
    No stove is capable of running 20 rads.

    http://www.broseleyfires.com/Multifu...ler-Stove.html;)


    is it a retro fit into an old chimney breast or is it into a new build?... the lining of the chimney (or lack of) can affect the draw of the chimney, one soloution would be to install an in line damper pipe to reduce the draw.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 208 ✭✭Esto Fidelis


    I have an ARROW, can't remember the model but it is the largest one with 17 rads on it outputs 82,000 BTUs to hot water, which could heat up to 19 radiators according to there website. I have a similar problem in that the enamel pipe goes from the top of the stove and is shoved up into the flue liner. It has the fire cement then to seal it off but this keeps falling out and i have tried a few different brands of cement. I think it may need some sort of a stainless adaptor to make a better seal and am just wondering if you may have a similar problem. What I will say about stoves this size is that they need a lot of fuel to heat the rads and this makes the room they are in very hot and there is no way aroud this you have to put a lot in to get a lot out. Sorry for hi-jacking your thread but If anyone can coment on the enamel pipe and how best it should be connected to the chimney (cannot think of the name of the concrete part at the bottom of the chimney) as i only have mine shoved up the liner.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 230 ✭✭sentenel


    Thanks derdevle, any more info on the inline damper pipe ?
    hi esto i have an steel reducer from the chimney into the enamel pipe all is sealed well. The stoves need to be well fueled I agree but having tried lots of different bands of cement it all still gets burned off
    cheers
    joe


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    You can get flat rope for sealing doors, could you use this to fill the gap between the two different dia pipes?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 672 ✭✭✭items


    Have you any way to tell temp of water inside stove heat exchanger? Stove may not be the problem, you could have a circulation problem, stove could be heating water fine but its just not circulating to rads properly. Just a thought.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 230 ✭✭sentenel


    Hi Cj, I've been thinking of using some rope & cement to see if it improves .
    Hi Items, I dont know of a way to tell the temp inside the heat exchanger, the water seems to be circulating properly .
    cheers
    joe


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 771 ✭✭✭dardevle


    ...

    http://www.fluesystems.com/flues/info/vitreous.htm

    vitreous_closureplatespigot_100.jpg
    have a look on this link, maybe the closure plate with spigot could be of use...one of my neighbours had the very same problem about a year ago and the stove installation company came and fitted one of these plates to close the area between the chimney and the stove pipe..worked a treat.

    alternatively the flue dampers are available on ebay quite regularly as they seem to be a popular item.
    .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 230 ✭✭sentenel


    Hi dardevele,
    i just looked up the flue damper they look promising.
    Anyone have any experience of these ?
    cheers
    joe


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