W123 again....

COB MGV8

So I was on a few weeks ago about a W123 as a daily driver...and after all the helpful input, I decided on a 230e despite the fact that they are only available post 1980/81 and I will have to pay full road tax.....What attracts me to them is that they are interesting, nice to drive, and I can do the basic servicing etc myself....insurance is pricey though for some reason....

I have spotted a few around the place and went to see this one at Weston earlier in the week...

http://www.westonclassics.com/classics/car0203/index.html

I wasn't able to to drive it becasue of the weather, but will next week....some observations I made myself...

-106K miles, UK Import
-No service history available
-Interior in good nick
-Some rust on bonnett and on drivers door skin - structurally seems to be sound
- Chrome work around windows has faded to dull grey
-Started it from cold and saw some white smote when revving it - assume its condensation, will see when I get it out for a drive and warm her up to make sure its not the head gasket or worse
- Getting a squealingwhen revving - assuming that the fanbelt needs adjustment or replacement
-Some play in the steering, but nothing too serious
-Engine bay is clean enough, some rust on driver side bulkhead -not suspension mounting, but at top of the wheel arch where there is a small indentation

Guy I was dealing with seemed genuine enough...

Any views ?

gyppo

Its a nice looking car, but he's asking enough for it. Is there a valid NCT, or will the seller organise one as part of the sale?

Im suprised there is not some history with the car, most ex-uk cars would have at least a number of old mot certs which might give an indication of mileage.

Where is the rust on the bonnet - ot the front lip of the bonnet, or at the hinges? Front part shouldbe a fairly easy repair - rust in the hinge area is a bit more difficult.
While you are at it, examine the boot lid hinges - a common spot for rot too.

On the doors, check the very bottom on the inside of each door - perished weather strips on the door glass allow water to enter, and the door will rot out at the bottom.
If any of the doors are holed at the bottom, you can bet there is rot in the floors and internal sills.

Another common rot point is the exterior sills, especially around the jacking tubes. Probe well.

Check the rear wheel arches for rust - your example doesnt have the chrome aftermarket arch kit fitted, which imo, is in its favour.

Smoke is most likely condensation in this weather - it should go after a good warm-up. Again, a squealing when being revved is most likely a fan belt.

Slight play in the steering is normal enough on these. You reallly wont know how the steering is until you test drive it.

Check the bulkhead for rust under and behind the battery tray - get the seller to remove the battery. This is a notorious rust spot, and is well hidden.


When you do get to drive it -

Keep a note of the oil pressure guage - it should go to the max level within a few seconds of starting the car. When the oil gets hot and thins out, the oil pressure should drop back to about 2 on tickover. If its a low level like 1, be wary.

Listen for a rattly timing chain on tickover.

Gears should change very smoothly. Rough changes could be something as small as a vacuum pipe leak, or could be £££s.

When driving, these cars are on the soft and wallowy side. Check how the steering is too.



Anyhow, after all that, I hope it works out for you. I have one of these, and it puts a smile on my face everytime I drive it!

COB MGV8

gyppo wrote: »

Its a nice looking car, but he's asking enough for it. Is there a valid NCT, or will the seller organise one as part of the sale?

Im suprised there is not some history with the car, most ex-uk cars would have at least a number of old mot certs which might give an indication of mileage.

Where is the rust on the bonnet - ot the front lip of the bonnet, or at the hinges? Front part shouldbe a fairly easy repair - rust in the hinge area is a bit more difficult.
While you are at it, examine the boot lid hinges - a common spot for rot too.

On the doors, check the very bottom on the inside of each door - perished weather strips on the door glass allow water to enter, and the door will rot out at the bottom.
If any of the doors are holed at the bottom, you can bet there is rot in the floors and internal sills.

Another common rot point is the exterior sills, especially around the jacking tubes. Probe well.

Check the rear wheel arches for rust - your example doesnt have the chrome aftermarket arch kit fitted, which imo, is in its favour.

Smoke is most likely condensation in this weather - it should go after a good warm-up. Again, a squealing when being revved is most likely a fan belt.

Slight play in the steering is normal enough on these. You reallly wont know how the steering is until you test drive it.

Check the bulkhead for rust under and behind the battery tray - get the seller to remove the battery. This is a notorious rust spot, and is well hidden.


When you do get to drive it -

Keep a note of the oil pressure guage - it should go to the max level within a few seconds of starting the car. When the oil gets hot and thins out, the oil pressure should drop back to about 2 on tickover. If its a low level like 1, be wary.

Listen for a rattly timing chain on tickover.

Gears should change very smoothly. Rough changes could be something as small as a vacuum pipe leak, or could be £££s.

When driving, these cars are on the soft and wallowy side. Check how the steering is too.



Anyhow, after all that, I hope it works out for you. I have one of these, and it puts a smile on my face everytime I drive it!

Thanks for the input, much appreciated...
-Rust on bonnet is in the middle of actual panel itself not at the edges - it might jave been a replacement panel or respray...
-Theres also a small bit at the bottom of the a pillar at the windscreen.
-Also worried about the lack of history, he has it from the time it came into the country, but none prior to that
-I have to ask about nct....

2cv

I know of a nice solid 230E for half that....

gyppo

2cv wrote: »

I know of a nice solid 230E for half that....

Agreed, somewhere around the 2500 mark should get you a nice usable one of these.

1948Wolseley

I'd agree that the price is a tad steep, but it does look like a pretty solid car.

Here's a couple of things to bear in mind if you haven't driven an old Merc recently:

If the car seems to drift to the left quite a bit don't worry; these cars tend to follow the crown of the road more than others.

Rough gearchanges when the 'box is cold are ok as long as they smooth out when the gearbox warms up.

The temperature gauge should usually sit at 80 degrees, but it's quite normal for it to move around quite a bit.

trad

Check expansion bottle for sludge, common enough head gasket problems and blue exhaust smoke from tired valve stem oil seals, timing chains can be noisy and check water pump bearing for play, a sure sign that the pump is on the way out followed closely by the head gasket if not caught in time. Play in the drive train can be down to wear in the front and rear flexible couplings and ht leads can give trouble. Frost plugs not beyond poping in this weather if not enough anti freeze.

If you get a good one they are a grand car. For that type of money I'd get an expert to give it a going over up on a ramp. When the NCT came it the garage I worked in put plenty of 123's through with bills well over a thousand pounds and that was 10 years ago.

quattro777

For that kind of money I would be expecting a minter with no rust and a proper history


1983 Mercedes 230 E A bargain if it checks out at £1500.
http://www.carandclassic.com/car/C127378/

1982 Mercedes 230 E £3500
http://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/classic-car-page.php/carno/80251/

unkel

quattro777 wrote: »

1982 Mercedes 230 E £3500
http://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/classic-car-page.php/carno/80251/

That looks perfect. Not unrealistic money either. Another great find, quattro777!

Here's the wheeler dealers episode where that car features at the start.

COB MGV8

quattro777 wrote: »

For that kind of money I would be expecting a minter with no rust and a proper history


1983 Mercedes 230 E A bargain if it checks out at £1500.
http://www.carandclassic.com/car/C127378/

1982 Mercedes 230 E £3500
http://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/classic-car-page.php/carno/80251/

Great suggestions - going to call the guy in the UK today, I had seen the Wheeler Dealers episode , just watched it again.

Re the Weston one - €4,500 is his asking price, I had something much lower in mind....;)

gyppo

Heres another one to consider..........

http://cars.donedeal.ie/for-sale/vintagecars/1006324

2cv

gyppo wrote: »

Heres another one to consider..........

http://cars.donedeal.ie/for-sale/vintagecars/1006324

I have never seen the point in a bright red mercedes tbh

Blue850

This is being advertised as a 230E but its a 79...

Irish reg W123

COB MGV8

Blue850 wrote: »

This is being advertised as a 230E but its a 79...

Irish reg W123

I saw that one but the input I got about the 230e vs 230 put me off it....looks in great nick though.

artic

COB MGV8 wrote: »

I saw that one but the input I got about the 230e vs 230 put me off it....looks in great nick though.

i know this may sound stupid, but what is the difference beteween the two ?

biggus

E is injected and a much more modern engine on top of that. 230 is carb

COB MGV8

artic wrote: »

i know this may sound stupid, but what is the difference beteween the two ?

:rolleyes:It might be marginal enough of a difference when it comes to paying classic tax vs full 2.3L tax

2cv

E is short for Einspritzung, which means fuel injected...

shawnee

Love the 123's myself and drive a 280ce. Very comfortable , powerful and interior is classy. Mine's a 79 and this allows me cheap tax and ins is around 160. I had a mid 80's one before but found the tax and insurance crippling for the amount of usage the car was getting. It's a buyers market at the moment and if you are prepared to travel you will get a nice top spec 1980 or previous for a decent price. Mine has service history and a lot of documentation with it. Never regretted buying it

artic

I have been looking for a Merc for a while, i was initially looking for a w115 saloon but they are a bit pricey for a good one. I may go for a W123 230E to use as a daily driver as i have no storage. I have two small children and need something reliable and of course i am on a tight budget of around 2k. I am not sure if it is enough or am i too hopeful?

1948Wolseley

artic wrote: »

I have been looking for a Merc for a while, i was initially looking for a w115 saloon but they are a bit pricey for a good one. I may go for a W123 230E to use as a daily driver as i have no storage. I have two small children and need something reliable and of course i am on a tight budget of around 2k. I am not sure if it is enough or am i too hopeful?

How 'bout a 201? I used one as a daily driver a while back, left it out in all kinds of weather, and apart from a dodgy distributor cap (€45 for a new one), never had a day's trouble with it.

Here's one:
http://obclassics.cbg.ie/detail.aspx?ID=3402682
It's been there a while too, so I'd say you could squeeze it into your budget with some good haggling.

si_guru

Hi, Newbie here..

I am thinking of getting a W123 too as a usuable classic... I like this.

http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C129953/

which will be vintage next year..

or what about this for a W201?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MERCEDES-190E-1993-BEAUTIFUL-EXAMPLE-LOW-MILEAGE_W0QQitemZ200424343766QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAutomobiles_UK?hash=item2eaa38c8d6

It failed to sell when buy asked £1250!

SG

p.s. for sale Land Rover V8

unkel

That 280E looks like it's in concours condition!

artic

unkel wrote: »

That 280E looks like it's in concours condition!

Nice car, but a bit pricey :eek: