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Cleaning Regimen

  • 20-12-2009 7:09pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,034 ✭✭✭✭


    So, shopping for brushes, jags, solvents and whatever else I need at the moment for the new .25-06 and am wondering what you guys use and recommend. I know my cleaning regimen for the .22 (though I'm torn on that at the moment) but I've never cleaned a centrefire before, so looking for help and advice on what to use.


Comments

  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,696 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    If the gun is brand new there is a breaking in period. Every lad has his own way that others will not agree is the "right" way. There is no real right way (but there is a wrong way as in 50 rounds-quick clean- 50 rounds- quick clean, etc) A way i normally use is:

    1 shot. Bolt out and clean. Repeat this for 10 - 15 rounds.

    3 shots. Bolt out and clean. Repeat this for another 25 - 30 or so rounds.

    5 shots. Bolt out and clean. Repeat this for 25 - 35 rounds.

    10 shots. Bolt out and clean. Repeat this for 30- 40 rounds.

    This is the way i've always done mine and i've never had a problem with it. After this, clean every detail (as in every 15 rounds or so). Now some will do it differently. I know lads that clean after every shot, then 3 shots then 5 shots, then back to 3 shots then 5 shots. It works for them, but i stick to the way i've always done it.

    I wire brush the bore first. Then use a lightly oiled nylon brush. Then i run through with a mop. Run a few patches on a jag through to clean out any remaining dirt. Lightly oil another clean mop and run it through. Then run out more patches on a jag to clean out any excess oil. I only use a bore solvent occassionally to give a thorough clean. Soak a patch in the solvent and run it through the bore. Leave for about 2-5 minutes and then keep running patches through until all dirt, residue is removed (the patches run clean). Then lightly oil a mop run it through and again run patches through to remove excess oil.

    There are numerous oils, solvents etc out there. I use M-Pro7 products mostly. Both oils and solvents. I have both Parker Hale and Dewey rods. I keep multiple heads of each type. 2 wire brushes, 2 nylon brushes, 5 mops and a couple of packs of different sized patches. 0.5 inch to 1 inch both square and round. Not to mention the important bit a bore guide.

    Don't know how much of that is helpful, if any, but its a start. Congrats on the rifle and best of luck with it.



    PS - Should have said its (mine) a target rifle so some may think its excessive, others may think its not enough but its a starting point for any centrefire.
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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,523 ✭✭✭Traumadoc


    I have a little sweets 7.62 , but it is running out, does anyone in Ireland supply it?

    http://www.ssaa.org.au/stories/hints-tips-how-to-clean-a-firearm.html


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 151 ✭✭happyjack


    I use Remington Copper solvent and Hoppes Number 9 powder and copper solvent, plus I find ordinary meths great for most cleaning, breach, bolt etc, as it evaporates after use which is handy.

    A tip I do after lamping if the barrel is not stainless, I pass a slightly oily rag down the barrel to push out any condinsation, as it can cause rust to my mind.

    I never bother to clean 22 long rifles barrels, only the chambers and action as I find it takes a couple of boxes of ammo for the groups to shoot tight again, I once cleaned a 22 rifle barrel, right down to the steel, it had never been cleaned before and a couple of months later the rifling showed surface rust, modern 22 powder and primers to my mind covers the barrel with a protective coating that prevents rust.

    I had a twenty two magnum once and I over cleaned it and this caused wear in the barrel, it was a CZ, so good steel, so these days I use cotton rags more and I dont over use bronze bristle brushes, plus I never would use a steel bristle brush as that would create wear straight off the batt.

    For the bolts race way I mix grease with oil and smear a little on the race ways and knuckle of the bolt.

    I find in semi-autos to much oil makes the powder residue stick more and makes matters worse, so I use very little oil in semi's.

    I use a one peace plastic or plastic coated cleaning rod, steel rods or ones that come in bits that you screw together will rub directly on the rifling and cause on wanted wear. I'd never use a pull through as they can cause wear on the important crown area, creating on even wear to the edge bit of rifling.

    I keep an oily rag in a container that I put a bit of oil in now and again, this stops the cloth drying out and I give any blued guns a rub down after someone handles them as some folks leave very sweety finger prints that wear blued finish quite fast believe it or not, the ole oily rag is dead handy, stitch in time!

    The worst thing you can do to a gun is get it wet, then put into a gun slip, zip it up and drive home, a wet gun in a closed case or slip/ bag rust very quickly, best to either dry the gun off first then wipe with an oily rag or leave it out of the case after, and always dry a damp gun bag/ slip/case fully after use.

    Hope I've been helpfull, if you ask 100 shooters you'll most likely get a 100 answers, but those in the know will tell ya to remove copper fauling and not let it build up, it will show as a bluey green colour on your white patches, ordinary oil or gun cleaner will not remove copper fauling, only products designed to remove it will do the job.

    Happy Xmas, congrats on the wonderful 25-06, a lovely calibre, they call it the queen of the quarter bores in the states.

    HJ:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,076 ✭✭✭gunhappy_ie


    Snake core and either M Pro 7 cleaning kit or Militec 1 oil.... the best IMO


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 58 ✭✭stephentri


    hi
    i use the k g range of cleaners the kg12 copper is the best thing i have used


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