Another 'new to road cycling' threads

ciarsciars

Hey there,
I know you guys probably hate these ‘new to road cycling’ threads but here goes anyway.
I’ve been cycling to work and doing some mounting biking for the last number of years and now want to do some road cycling. I was SOOOO close to buying the PlanetX carbon bike for £999 but with job uncertainty and all, I just couldn’t afford it.
Anyway I bought the following the bike for €240 http://www.adverts.ie/showproduct.php?product=156819&cat=all. It’s seems in good condition. It’s steal (Columbus TSX tubing) and though I’m no expert, the components seem pretty good, if a little old: Campagnolo record hubs, Rigida DP18 rims, Campagnolo brakes and Sache drive train. I kinda like the retro look of it tooJ


Just a few questions:
1. Is a bike like this good enough for going on 80-100k spins (compared to modern bikes it’s not that light)? Whether I’m good enough is another thing.
2. Should I sell it and get a second hand entry level aluminium bike? I think I would get what I paid for it if I did sell.
3. Would you bother going down the road of upgrading components e.g. changing from this sort of thing http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=13671 to this sort of thing: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=29060
4. I bought Look keo pedals and shimano shoes. The shoes are 45 (11UK), I’m normally a 10UK and they are still quite snug up the top! Should cycling shoes be that little bit tight than regular shoes?
5. I think the tyres need replacing. The size of the tyres reads 700 x 19. Is it ok to put on 700 x 23? Can you recommend a good entry level tyre? Maybe these? http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Vittoria_Diamante_Pro_Tyre/5360035177/
6. And finally, where is a good place to go for spins in the evenings? I’m living in Harolds Cross at the mo.

Sorry for the length of this post. Now I’m just waiting for my tights to be delivered (never thought I would hear myself say that!)

CheGuedara

Well cairsciars, I suppose to answer each in order:

1. That bike should be fine to cover 80-100km, it'll demand a bit more work from you than a lighter, modern bike and you'll have to get to grips with down tube shifters but if you've a good enough set of legs to drive it, it should be up to the job.

2. Really you're looking at paying around the e500 mark for a basic entry level road bike that is not a BSO, and will have a decent durability in it's build and components eg. Giant Defy. Should you sell it? It's up to you, give the bike a go and if you're not enthused by it then you've your answer.

3. No. As nice as it seems if you go for the Sora STI units then you will have to change the cassette to 9 speed, chain, chain rings and probably the rear hub - (looks like 5 speed?) - It would get very expensive very fast and you would still have an old frame with basic components

4. Cycling shoes can be on the snug side - I take 45 in road shoes and 10/10.5 in ordinary shoes. You may not just be used to the fit, howver if they cause you pain whilst cycling then you may either have the straps tied too tight or they're simply just that shade to short and or narrow.

5. Those tyres you linked are fine - also consider the Michelin Krylion tyres, well wearing, grippy and fairly puncture proof

6. At the moment indoors is pretty good, warm, in close proximity to tea - turbo trainers FTW

blorg

From what I can figure out that was an absolutely top end steel frame- Columbus TSX was top of the line when it was made.

Regarding the spins, it is about the rider not the bike, the only issue would be whether (a) the bike fits you and (b) it is in good mechanical order.

There are other riders that come out with us no problem on steel bikes that would be heavier than many others.

STI shifters are certainly nice for changing gear quickly but there is nothing wrong with downtube ones and STIs are unlikely to make you any faster.

I would tend to give the bike a go first for a while before deciding on upgrades etc. It could be nice to do that bike up (if necessary) with relatively authentic components, keeping the downtube shifters etc.

Cycling shoes tend to be a bit tighter, yes, they have to be a close fit for pedalling efficiency- but they should not really pinch your toes.

Yes you can put on 700x23 no problem. 700x19 is far too narrow, that was a bit of a fad which died out in modern times in the pro peloton as it was realised that there was no speed advantage. The tyres you linked, Diamante Pros, are beyond entry level, they are quite good racing tyres.

From Harold's Cross up the mountains is the best place. Of course you will need good lights.

If you are selling it and getting a modern aluminium bike let me know

ciarsciars

Thank you both for those excellent replies.

I think the bike fits me correctly - I’m 5 11" and it measures 58 or 59cm from the middle of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube. It certainly feels very comfortable anyway. I will look up some info re adjusting the saddle height/position to suit me.

As you both suggest, I will give the bike a go before considering any upgrades or different bikes. I’m sure it will be fine for the level I’m at!

Blorg, I will keep you in mind if selling the bike in the future.

Thanks again.

Raam

IMO cycling shoes should not be snug on the toes. You will need plenty room for your toes. In the summer your feet will swell a little. In the winter it's nice to have some wriggle room for keeping the blood flowing and also so you can wear thicker socks.

kincsem

Let me congratulate you on getting what appears to be a bargain. It looks like a quality bike.

Many people spend hundreds on things that are bike-shaped, but most of us doubt the things they buy will be bike-shaped for long.

BostonB

Should you go a size too bike when getting cycling shoes, MTB or Road?

blorg

BostonB wrote: »

Should you go a size too bike when getting cycling shoes, MTB or Road?

Size bigger than what is the question. I would say probably, no, they are meant to be tight, but you should be able to wiggle your toes comfortably. I am 44 (in most leather shoes) or 45 (in generally more casual) shoes, 45 in all my cycling shoes, 46.5 in Asics runners.

ednwireland

BostonB wrote: »

Should you go a size too bike when getting cycling shoes, MTB or Road?

i havent had to usually take 43's, and i have a pair of 44 mtb shoes which are slightly too big and a pair of 43's which are spot on. i risked a pair of 43 viper road shoes and they are spot on as well so i havent had to go any different sizes. my old diadora shoes were 43 as well
my old sidi dominators were 43, my addidas ones were 44 (slightly too big) so from my experience no i've never had to go up the sizes the way some people on this forum have.

must be my feet

Lumen

I am about 42.5-43 in pedestrian shoes, 44 in Specialized MTB shoes, 45 in Sidi road shoes.

teufelswerk

Sizes and fitting vary between manufacturers, had Northwave Aerator 3s that were a 45 that were comfy fit and new Gaerne Myst in a 45 have left me with plenty of "growing room".