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gears

  • 05-10-2009 5:38pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭


    I like to mountain bike.

    myself and a few friend have a great trail around a forest which we use 3 times a week.

    I have a Deore derailer. I upgraded to this.

    The chain constantly hops of the bottom jockey wheel when a hit bumps. I lose my momentim and get over taken. :( it hops to the inside side of the small wheel and clicks and bangs till I back pedel to reset it.

    What do i need to adjust to stop this.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 620 ✭✭✭Super Freak


    Have you tried adjusting it at all?

    http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/blevel.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302051135&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=1408474395181679&bmUID=1254775365764

    Have a look here, try to find your exact derailleur and adjust it as per the service instructions.

    Hope this helps.

    Kieran


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    cool. thanks. I have tried to adjust them. they engage the gears well . It the line between the crank rings and the bottom jockey wheel that may be out. (it looks dead on)

    I may have hit the derailer on a rock.

    I also fitted a new chain . Which I am not sure is the correct pitch or lengh.

    Its hard to know what to order when there is so much variety out there.

    it is a Giant terrago. It also got a new cassette . all the bits dont seem to work together. very frustrating .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 68,317 ✭✭✭✭seamus


    gsxr1 wrote: »
    I also fitted a new chain . Which I am not sure is the correct pitch or lengh.
    That would be my first culprit. There is also a tension adjuster on the rear mech which determines how far back the mech normally sits and determines how much tension it places on the chain in the normal position.

    There is generally sufficient play in the jockey wheels and flex in the mech that the line between them isn't a big deal. If you upgraded from a long cage mech to a long cage (or x. long cage) mech, then there shouldn't be any major difference in the chain line.

    Have a look at the chain in a variety of normal gears, but mostly have a look at it in the smaller cogs at the back and the small and middle ring at the front. If there is any floppiness in the chain whatsoever (i.e. the chain isn't taut between the mech and the front ring) in any gearing combination, then your chain is too long or your mech isn't adjusted correctly (but usually both).

    If there is floppiness, remove two links from the chain (two is the minimum you can remove), and have a look again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,525 ✭✭✭kona


    where do you ride?

    Its could be anything really, a stiff link, bent hanger, limits not set etc. Id bring it to a bike shop and spend a few €€ on a gear service, will only cost you a tenner and you wont be overtaken anymore!;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    kona wrote: »
    where do you ride?

    Its could be anything really, a stiff link, bent hanger, limits not set etc. Id bring it to a bike shop and spend a few €€ on a gear service, will only cost you a tenner and you wont be overtaken anymore!;)

    i think i will do that,. There is a really good 7 mile track around Donada forest that a bunch of us use. Great work out.

    Im in Naas. Should I take it to Halfords. Them guy would be assembling bikes and setting up gears everyday????


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,440 ✭✭✭cdaly_


    I think the general advice is to avoid the like of Haldfords like the plague. Any big chain is less likely to have serious bike mechanics. Your local bike shop is likely to be a better bet.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,676 ✭✭✭Gavin


    Sounds as simple as a chain that's too long.


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