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Toilet cistern making noise when refilling

  • 05-10-2009 5:23pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 157 ✭✭


    The cistern has a dual flush mechanism which is attached to the cistern lid. Wondering how I could remove the lid to investigate and fix the noise problem. It is very annoying. Noise stops when adjacent cold tap on wash handbasin is turned on. Probably something simple such as partially blocked fill pipe causing back pressure.

    Grateful for any advice


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    It sounds like what you are getting is hammering. Are you living in an apartment. There is a number of different types of push button systems

    1. A button attached to a cable - Just lift the cistern lid off

    2. A button attached to the cistern lid and has threaded bar doen to the syphon - again just lift the lid off.

    3. A button that is screwing the cistern lid down to the toilet. Usually the buttin just screws off or pops off

    Can you take a photo


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 157 ✭✭makfli


    Many thanks for advice.
    No not an apartment.
    I tried to prise the outer flange upwards but there is considerable resistance. I am wary of using too much leverage until I know what I'm doing. Photo attached .
    Appreciate the help.
    Thank you


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    makfli wrote: »
    Many thanks for advice.
    No not an apartment.
    I tried to prise the outer flange upwards but there is considerable resistance. I am wary of using too much leverage until I know what I'm doing. Photo attached .
    Appreciate the help.
    Thank you

    Yes i know them now. You gently try to pop the two inner buttons out and there is a threaded philips pce underneath... If that does not work PM me your address if I am passing i will drop in.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 157 ✭✭makfli


    Thank you Joey. I have the initial problem solved thanks to the faq section on the Armitage Shanks website. Fyi this is how you remove the mechanism;

    Depress the large crescent shaped button.
    * Whilst depressed gently prize the smaller button from the underneath until it pops out.
    * When this has been done you can then remove the larger button in the same way.
    * When they are both removed it will expose a white plastic screw that you should
    carefully with not too much force remove.
    * As soon as you have done this the outer shroud will come out and the lid will lift off.

    All I have to do now is sort out whats causing the hammering. The water is filled via a tube like plastic membrane .
    Any ideas ?
    Thanks again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    makfli wrote: »
    Thank you Joey. I have the initial problem solved thanks to the faq section on the Armitage Shanks website. Fyi this is how you remove the mechanism;

    Depress the large crescent shaped button.
    * Whilst depressed gently prize the smaller button from the underneath until it pops out.
    * When this has been done you can then remove the larger button in the same way.
    * When they are both removed it will expose a white plastic screw that you should
    carefully with not too much force remove.
    * As soon as you have done this the outer shroud will come out and the lid will lift off.

    All I have to do now is sort out whats causing the hammering. The water is filled via a tube like plastic membrane .
    Any ideas ?
    Thanks again.

    Is your toilet connected to mains pressure. Have you tried to regulate the pressure with the red tap in the hot press


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 179 ✭✭pipers


    Is your toilet connected to mains pressure. Have you tried to regulate the pressure with the red tap in the hot press

    How can you regulate pressure with a red tap?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 157 ✭✭makfli


    I think he means cutting down the flow will restrict the volume of water getting to the cistern and thus may eliminate the 'hammer'. Downside is the cistern will take longer to fill.
    Dont think the supply is from the main, suspect its from the attic tank will check all this when I get a chance at the week end.
    Now I can get the lid off I will dismantle the ball valve and see if the problem is there. I'll let you know how I get on .
    Thanks again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    makfli wrote: »
    I think he means cutting down the flow will restrict the volume of water getting to the cistern and thus may eliminate the 'hammer'. Downside is the cistern will take longer to fill.
    Dont think the supply is from the main, suspect its from the attic tank will check all this when I get a chance at the week end.
    Thanks again.

    yes i do mean that. Dismantleing the ballvalve will do nothing for your problem. You can also buy and fit an aquasave ball valve from mt agencis which is a good type ball valve.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 237 ✭✭Traditional


    joey the lips hasent a clue , i can tell you what that noise is straight away just fixed 5 in last month , its water hammer and you can fix it for as little as 1 euro
    let me know.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    joey the lips hasent a clue , i can tell you what that noise is straight away just fixed 5 in last month , its water hammer and you can fix it for as little as 1 euro
    let me know.

    Why dont you enlighten us on how to fix it! Seen as though you fixed 5 in the past month.

    ps: i refere you to post no. 2 above where i also say its water hammering. Have not got a clue indeed!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 237 ✭✭Traditional


    ok joey,
    water hammer is caused by water do you agree ?
    yes its the pressure pushing up against the rubber washer in the ballcock housing , called a diaphragm a black washer , be careful of what way it comes out as it has to go back that way , this becomes soft over time and even if its not worn it still needs to be replaced. most plumbing shops have them normally a euro each .
    this will cure your noise . put that one under your pillow Joe !


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    ok joey,
    water hammer is caused by water do you agree ?
    yes its the pressure pushing up against the rubber washer in the ballcock housing , called a diaphragm a black washer , be careful of what way it comes out as it has to go back that way , this becomes soft over time and even if its not worn it still needs to be replaced. most plumbing shops have them normally a euro each .
    this will cure your noise . put that one under your pillow Joe !

    Thats well under my pillow. That also is normally the system that uses the old ball cock and flush lever. The problem is this is top flush and armitage shanks, shires and many others mainly use sealed chinese fill arms. These fill arms do not have that washer.

    I may be wrong but my mind is on the correct track.

    If the poster wants to make life very easy for themselves they can as I suggested change it for the aquasave float valve.

    But if you are right you have advised the OP well if I am wrong I have only advised the OP a more expensive way of sorting the same problem.

    This is the float arm you are refering to yes!

    http://www.rd.com/content/printContent.do?contentId=115984&KeepThis=true&TB_iframe=true&height=500&width=790&modal=true

    Where as here is the better version of the standard one I am refering to. No washers in this from my memory.

    http://www.pulsardirect.co.uk/plumbing-supplies/ProductDetail.asp?ProductSubId=94&ProductCatId=944&ProductCode=336-1200


    We are still a long way from "Not having a clue" as you put it,.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 179 ✭✭pipers


    makfli wrote: »

    All I have to do now is sort out whats causing the hammering. The water is filled via a tube like plastic membrane .
    Any ideas ?
    Thanks again.


    Replace the ballcock with a Torbeck, this is not a DIY job.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    pipers wrote: »
    Replace the ballcock with a Torbeck, this is not a DIY job.

    I agree on the ball valve it is something someone good at DIY will manage.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 157 ✭✭makfli


    Thanks guys for all the info. Finally got around to looking at this over the weekend. The isolation valve took some finding but managed to locate it eventually. Joeys first solution did the trick, ie I cut down the flow by closing the valve a couple of turns . Not the best fix but definitely the quickest and least messy.
    Thanks again great to know there are people out there with an interest in helping.


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